The 23D thread

[Meriwether]

Originally Posted by RFP

Keith, Here's my experience with the wiring:

The first thing is to gain access to the 12 VDC wiring that's there in the three-switch panel: snap off the outer trim (fingernails will work just fine) and remove the four screws holding the switched in place.

Now you have both access to 12 VDC and you have a hole big enough to work through.

Then I pencil marked the wall at the very bottom of the lower cabinet. THat way, I could know just where my wire should exit and run to the LED fixture.

I removed the lower cabinet thereby gaining plenty of room to work.

Using a 1/2" spade bit, I drilled a hole just below my mark and and as far back as I thought practical. Now comes the fun part.

The hollow space behind the switches contains the plumbing vent for both the black and gray water tanks. That darned plastic vent pipe makes fishing the wire back to my 1/2" hole a bit fiddly.

Using a piece of uninsulated copper wire, I formed a loop of big "string," Scotch taping one side of the loop to the copper wire. When I put the copper wire (and it's attached string) into the hole, I fed the other part of the loop into the hole. If this has made sense, you can now visualize that I've got a piece of wire now inside the hollow space with part of it hanging down like a "lasso." THis gave me a big "target" to fish for.

I was then able to get a straightened wire coat hanger through the switch opening, past the vent pipe and back to where my "lasso" was hanging.

My coat hanger had a "L" bend about 3/8" long and I poked and twisted until I had captured the string. I was then able to pull the string out the switch hole. Success. I tied both of the ends of the string together so that neither end could slip back into the hollow.

The wire pulling was the easiest part of all.

So, that's my story, and I'm stickin' to it

Excellent description, this really helps! Since our trailer is stored 20 minutes away, to avoid wasted trips I have to plan my projects carefully.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by Meriwether

Excellent description, this really helps! Since our trailer is stored 20 minutes away, to avoid wasted trips I have to plan my projects carefully.

By the way, Kieth, there was an unterminated (loose!) white wire lurking just inside the switch hole. Made for a good ground without having to ground my LED strip to the aluminum shell. If you don't easily see a loose white (ground) wire when you open yours up, you might dig around a bit... it's likely there.

Rob

[pcskier]

Rob (RFP). Asking for someone. Where did you purchase your Wilsonart laminate? And also are the counter tops and table top Wilsonart as well? Thanks kindly.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by pcskier

Rob (RFP). Asking for someone. Where did you purchase your Wilsonart laminate? And also are the counter tops and table top Wilsonart as well? Thanks kindly.

Actually, I bought it through Home Depot. Ordered it on their web site and picked it up a week or so later at my local store.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by pcskier

Rob (RFP). Asking for someone. Where did you purchase your Wilsonart laminate? And also are the counter tops and table top Wilsonart as well? Thanks kindly.

Yep, both new countertops are Wilsonart. The Wilsonart laminate that was original to the trailer has been discontinued. The pattern I selected is a near match, and it is from the same premium (expensive) product line.

If you need the pattern name, let me know... I'll try to dig it up.

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by RFP

Actually, I bought it through Home Depot. Ordered it on their web site and picked it up a week or so later at my local store.

Thank you sir!

[RFP]

Originally Posted by pcskier

Rob (RFP). Asking for someone. Where did you purchase your Wilsonart laminate? And also are the counter tops and table top Wilsonart as well? Thanks kindly.

The patterns I use are:

Asian Sand - Wilsonart #7952 (factory pattern)

River Gemstone - Wilsonart # 1832

[Jim k]

On to adjustments with storage arrangements.

We turned our attention to the rear bed, removed the bed platform and took a good look at all the wasted space and lack of access. We built a storage area in front of the hot water heater under the kitchen fresh water drain, gained access to the standard front access storage area from above, and access to the rear curb side storage area. We also added brackets to stiffen up and attach the vertical rear wall under the bed to the floor—it was not attached.

With a jigsaw, we cut three access holes in the bed platform and shored up the edges with angle aluminum.

We had already complete the work under the hot water heater. We placed Riv-nuts around the outer perimeter of the bed to wall. With it reinstalled, we can easily gain access by lifting up the sleeping mattress moving a cover and reaching in under the bed.

Jim k

[Jim k]

We turned our attention to the lower area behind the false wall under the kitchen sink. We drew a rectangle, put in pilot holes, punch bigger holes through the cabinet and cut out the area with a jigsaw. A bit of clean up and sanding and it looked good. We built internal wall structures to protect the wiring and LP gas line located in the back of the space.

We had no need for the trash can under the sink so we cut out a round circle in the trash can shelf which instead holds our Magma blue, ceramic/stainless steel nesting pot set. It is fairly heavy set and we did not want it moving around and we preferred having it sitting on the floor in a cabinet.

Jim k

[GMFL]

Jim,
Nice work. The under sink space I have been eyeing for quite some time.
P.S. Nice foam water heater support!

[Jim k]

Here is something on the simpler side. We could not figure out a reasonable way to store our dishes, glasses, mugs and a few other things in the kitchen overhead. We tried a variety of solutions and nothing really fit well and worked well.

While looking around online someone recommended the following:

Sterilite 72508006 Ice Cube Bin, White, 6-Pack

This set sells for just over $20 on Amazon. We made the purchase and these bins fit the overhead perfectly. We can arrange plates and bowls vertically and they don't move. Glasses and mugs have separate slots and they don't move. Everything is easy to reach and is organized.

Here are a few photos of the 6-pack in place.

Jim k

[pcskier]

Jim, I’ve been camping for 16 days and reading snippets but I can’t wait to read your posts in detail when I get home. Welcome to the thread you’re a great addition and NICE work!

[Jim k]

We have fairly simple cooking knife needs when camping needing a chef, paring, and bread knife. We wanted our knifes protected and not floating around and we could not find any storage system that was to our liking. We looked around the wood shop and found a nice oak scrap of wood. Within an hour we had it planed, cut to length, grooves cut for the knife blades with a table saw and ready for light sanding. Food grade oil finished it up nicely. We added a small block at the far end to hold it in place.

Jim k

[Jim k]

Originally Posted by pcskier

Jim, I’ve been camping for 16 days and reading snippets but I can’t wait to read your posts in detail when I get home. Welcome to the thread you’re a great addition and NICE work!

PCSkier,

Thanks. We were just out in Utah for a week on Cedar Mesa doing work and we were back in the Airstream! It was very nice. We got a lot done, but alas the travel trailer is back in storage and we are back at work.

Jim k

[Jim k]

The splines in our front rock guard windows were sagging and were in terrible condition so we removed it in sections, cleaned up the tracks and replaced it with new spline material .22 size from The Home Depot.

We also replaced the window screens with new fiberglass screen material. These splining jobs were very easy to do with a spline tool and the results look great.

Our front screen window frame was a battered mess due to the inconsiderate way the self tapping screws were placed at the factory. We removed the frame and carefully hammered it straight utilizing blocks of wood. We drilled out the frame screw holes and the trailer window frame holes and installed stainless steel button-head bolts, washers and lock washers. It looks much better than before.

Here are some photos of the condition of the old splines and replacing the old with the new after cleaning. With a spline tool these were all very simple jobs.

Jim k

[Fair_Enough]

Originally Posted by Jim k

The splines in our front rock guard windows were sagging and were in terrible condition so we removed it in sections, cleaned up the tracks and replaced it with new spline material .22 size from The Home Depot.

Jim k

Thanks Jim. I cleaned windows yesterday and noticed the spline pulling out of the window rock guards at the corners and simply pushed it back in. Not sure if it was a good idea and pretty sure it won't hold, but I did apply Captain Tolley's to it (like I did all suspected hair line cracks around windows). I'll pick up some of that .22 spline you mentioned and do it right.

Clint

[eagletoo]

Jim,
The Sterlites work perfectly for the galley overhead “stuff”. Thanks for suggesting.

[Rdavenp3]

Since we're not going to have a chance to camp again this year, I decided to winterize it for the first time (Just bought it new in March). When I connected the bypass hose to a jug of RV antifreeze and turned the pump on, I could hear the pump running, but it wasn't pulling any antifreeze out of the jug. I double checked the bypass valve was in the correct position and tried again. Nothing. That's odd, maybe something wrong with the pump. It worked fine a couple weeks ago, maybe there's an obstruction. I unscrewed the inlet hose from the pump, then put some air pressure (blowing into the bypass hose) and felt nothing coming out the end of disconnected water pipe, but did notice a rush of air back out of the bypass hose. Then it hit me, they must have installed the bypass valve backwards! I put a little bit of water in the tank, then I siphoned from the bypass hose with the valve in the bypass position, and sure enough, I pulled water from the tank. I'm hoping I can get into the dealer before overnight freezing weather hits, otherwise I'll be doing this fix myself. Overall though, only a few issues in our first season towing it over 5,000 miles and my wife an I are loving our 23 CB!

[pcskier]

Second case I’ve heard of the factory installing a bypass valve backwards. I did it once myself.

[GMFL]

While working on the install of my WeBoost RV65 set up I did some “gutting” of my Front over dinette storage cabinet. Removed the DVD/BluRay player and cabinet and also removed the two inside end caps gaining access to the area behind the stereo and “free space on the street side. There is a nice large chase behind the cabinet to run wires front one side of the trailer to the other. Here’s a few crud photos.