The 23D thread

[Rich W]

Originally Posted by Air88

The mixer valve is located on the side of the water heater. It screws directly into the heater and that is the hot water supply. A cold line goes into valve and mixes with hot, then exits to hot water line that goes throughout trailer.

It's accessible from the hatch under the bed.

Originally Posted by RFP

As Air88 said, the mixing valve is located on the back of the water heater, up high and toward the right side (as viewed from the back of the water heater). In the photo below, it is the valve sitting horizontally with a black cap on the right end and hoses on the left and bottom.

Here's how it works: The water heater's thermostat is set quite high (180F, I think) and as the "super heated" water exits the tank, it is mixed with cold water resulting in water of a proper temperature for washing/bathing/whatever with out scalding. So, in effect, the mixing valve synthesizes a "larger" water heater by adding cold to the really-hot for use. Does my crude explanation make sense?

OK, I learned something. Mine must be working OK because I've not had any problems with it. I had the plastic drain plug break and explode on me, but that's another story. To access this on my AS I think I'd have to remove the bed. I can barely reach and turn the bypass valves.

I'll ask another question. Water coming from the water heater is hot, but why does it need to be mixed with cold before exiting to the hot water line? I thought all mixing was done at the sink using the faucet handles. Maybe it's to extend the small amount of hot water available in the tank?

[RFP]

Originally Posted by richw46

< snip >

I'll ask another question. Water coming from the water heater is hot, but why does it need to be mixed with cold before exiting to the hot water line? I thought all mixing was done at the sink using the faucet handles. Maybe it's to extend the small amount of hot water available in the tank?

Yep, that's it. I tried to explain that in my last post (Here's how it works...). Guess I didn't do such a good job.

[GMFL]

My 2 AWG wire for new battery cables will be here tomorrow and my 4 new Lifeline Batteries will be here by the end of the week. Can’t wait to get the solar upgrade complete. My trailers been apart for almost a month.

[GMFL]

Batteries will be moved inside two on each side right in front of the axles and the battery box will be used for storage.

[Rich W]

Originally Posted by RFP

Yep, that's it. I tried to explain that in my last post (Here's how it works...). Guess I didn't do such a good job.

Au contraire! My take was that you explained it. How else would I have come to the correct conclusion?

[DRBusse]

I am having a recurring problem with the pantry drawer latch mechanism on my 2018 23CB. The metal latch keeper comes loose, making it impossible to keep the drawer shut. During transit, the drawer randomly flies open with contents (utensils, etc.) flying out on the floor. I've had the dealer "fix" this twice, and after a recent trip, it's loose again and it appears the screw holes are stripped...I just can't get the screws to stay tight. As a precaution, I now wedge a shower curtain rod between the drawer and the fridge to keep the drawer shut in transit.
Certainly some of the practical engineers on this thread have a better solution for this problem, whether it be heavier hardware or something else. I'll show it to the dealer next time I am there, but I'll wager there are better, longer-lasting solutions forthcoming from this group. See photos....

[RFP]

Originally Posted by DRBusse

I am having a recurring problem with the pantry drawer latch mechanism on my 2018 23CB. The metal latch keeper comes loose, making it impossible to keep the drawer shut. During transit, the drawer randomly flies open with contents (utensils, etc.) flying out on the floor. I've had the dealer "fix" this twice, and after a recent trip, it's loose again and it appears the screw holes are stripped...I just can't get the screws to stay tight. As a precaution, I now wedge a shower curtain rod between the drawer and the fridge to keep the drawer shut in transit.
Certainly some of the practical engineers on this thread have a better solution for this problem, whether it be heavier hardware or something else. I'll show it to the dealer next time I am there, but I'll wager there are better, longer-lasting solutions forthcoming from this group. See photos....

Happy Friday afternoon, DRB !

Just Google "How to fix stripped wood screw holes" and you will get a whole bunch of interesting - and useful - reading, and YouTube videos, too.

But when this happens to ours (and sooner or later, it will probably happen to all of these trailers), I may put flat head machine screws through the entire shelf... recessed, of course.

[Josephine517]

Originally Posted by DRBusse

I am having a recurring problem with the pantry drawer latch mechanism on my 2018 23CB. The metal latch keeper comes loose, making it impossible to keep the drawer shut. During transit, the drawer randomly flies open with contents (utensils, etc.) flying out on the floor. I've had the dealer "fix" this twice, and after a recent trip, it's loose again and it appears the screw holes are stripped...I just can't get the screws to stay tight. As a precaution, I now wedge a shower curtain rod between the drawer and the fridge to keep the drawer shut in transit.

Certainly some of the practical engineers on this thread have a better solution for this problem, whether it be heavier hardware or something else. I'll show it to the dealer next time I am there, but I'll wager there are better, longer-lasting solutions forthcoming from this group. See photos....

The drawer holds a lot of weight and bounces down the road and slightly bends the drawer guides. I used wood shims on both sides of the drawers to keep the drawer from moving side to side and wood shims under the bottom drawer to keep the drawer from bouncing up and down when closed. I also added a second latch, no more problem.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by Josephine517

The drawer holds a lot of weight and bounces down the road and slightly bends the drawer guides. < snip > Attachment 355857

I would really be surprised if the drawer slides were actually 'bending.' More likely is that the screws holding the drawer slides are allowing the slide to move vertically. Many of the screws go through 'oblong' holes in the slides. These oblong holes allow for adjustment and alignment of the entire sliding assembly, but, over time, they can also allow the pull-put pantry to slip and become 'saggy.' It's pretty easy to get the assembly aligned as perfectly as possible, then add more screws using the round - NON-oblong - holes.

Also, another pair of drawer slides really sturdy up things nicely.

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by DRBusse

I am having a recurring problem with the pantry drawer latch mechanism on my 2018 23CB. The metal latch keeper comes loose, making it impossible to keep the drawer shut. During transit, the drawer randomly flies open with contents (utensils, etc.) flying out on the floor. I've had the dealer "fix" this twice, and after a recent trip, it's loose again and it appears the screw holes are stripped...I just can't get the screws to stay tight. As a precaution, I now wedge a shower curtain rod between the drawer and the fridge to keep the drawer shut in transit.
Certainly some of the practical engineers on this thread have a better solution for this problem, whether it be heavier hardware or something else. I'll show it to the dealer next time I am there, but I'll wager there are better, longer-lasting solutions forthcoming from this group. See photos....

As Rob said,
the best solution is to through bolt the latch using Pan-head machine screws and setting the head “flush” with the laminate. Then apply a drop of blue locktite to the threads and your good to go.

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by RFP

I would really be surprised if the drawer slides were actually 'bending.' More likely is that the screws holding the drawer slides are allowing the slide to move vertically. Many of the screws go through 'oblong' holes in the slides. These oblong holes allow for adjustment and alignment of the entire sliding assembly, but, over time, they can also allow the pull-put pantry to slip and become 'saggy.' It's pretty easy to get the assembly aligned as perfectly as possible, then add more screws using the round - NON-oblong - holes.

Also, another pair of drawer slides really sturdy up things nicely.

We’ve done the same and Steve from VA will be at my place again tomorrow for a few days or Airstream Work and one of the things on the list is adding the second set of slides to his 23CB FC

[GMFL]

Just completed to onboard lighting for the new space I accessed under the galley sink. I will install 2 LifeLine batteries in there. An LED light strip stuck to the inside upper lip and a switch cut in provides a lighting solution to occasionally inspect the batteries. I made a Lexan cover Attached with Velcro tabs in the 4 corners to prevent things from falling in there. Turned out OK I think.

[RFP]

Very nice, Ronnie, very nice indeed.

I'm still thinking about following your lead on this... probably putting a drawer on there. You know me, I can complicate ANYTHING!

[Meriwether]

Wow, nice work Ronnie!

[GMFL]

Got my 4 new LifeLine Batteries resting in there new home today!

[GMFL]

Got to build this countertop extension for a friends 23CB FC. Matches perfectly and folds out of the way when not needed. Thanks RFP and DBdreams for the guidance.

[billrector]

Originally Posted by GMFL

Got to build this countertop extension for a friends 23CB FC. Matches perfectly and folds out of the way when not needed. Thanks RFP and DBdreams for the guidance.

Ronnie, that’s my countertop! What laminate did you use to match? Nice work!

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by billrector

Ronnie, that’s my countertop! What laminate did you use to match? Nice work!

Heck if I know. Steve ordered it for Airstream.
I just built the piece.
If you call them (Airstream) they can tell you the color.

[Chris Borth]

I'm the guy GMFL ... Ronnie did the lift up shelf for. He and I took the measurements and decided on the depth (14" by 19" wide). We, mostly he, cut the plywood to shape and then glued the formica on the sides and top and bottom and routed the edges. When finished we noticed that the router had marred a side a little bit. It was on the door side and I told Ronnie I was fine with it, that it would never be noticed by anyone and certainly not by me. But he didn't like it and said he would go on the internet to see if it could be cleaned up so it would be less noticeable. I went off to bed around 7:30. When we resumed in the morning he showed me the shelf and it was perfect. I asked him if he had buffed it out. HE MADE A HOLE NEW SHELF DURING THE NIGHT. He said that I hadn't driven all the way from Virginia to get a marred shelf. Amazing. What a perfectionist.
We then continued on and he made several hardening fixes that I'll leave for him to describe as he chooses.
He is the best!

[Fair_Enough]

An amazing guy this one. He is always willing to get his hands dirty To help and to show us all the way it should be done.
Clint