'62 Overlander... new girl on the block

[HiHoAgRV]

Originally Posted by 65CV

Kathy,

There's not much to it. My '59 sat right on the floor and drained into a trap right below the plywood. ..

John

Mine is similar, the P trap loops thru the floor then curves back up above the floor. In my refirb I have run it forward under the tub edge then did a 90 degree turn down and into the top of the gray tank inside the closet. If I was redoing it, a Hepvo drain would be top of my list.

[65CV]

Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV

If I was redoing it, a Hepvo drain would be top of my list.

Exactly my thoughts, Vernon. We're planning to run it to the grey tank under the floor. I'm still hoping to confirm that it flows well (no flood in the shower) and that it prevents the grey tank from back flowing into the shower when underway.

If anyone has experience using the Hepvo, please post!

[Max Well]

I am planning on adding a shower to our 71 Caravanner. I am toying with the idea of adding a second 1 1/2" Thetford valve in the shower drain line BEFORE the grey tank (also to be added). It could be in the floor of the closet directly in front of the shower. Simply close the valve before driving away. Wouldn't that avoid backwash into the floor of the shower while driving?

Thanks,

Ken

[65CV]

Ken,

Not sure from your description if you're closing off the grey tank solidly.

We used one of these to keep the shower clean while driving and it worked fine for thousands of miles.

Should be a simple answer -- if the valve blocks the grey tank from the drain, you should be fine.

John

[KCN]

Originally Posted by 65CV

Kathy,

There's not much to it. My '59 sat right on the floor and drained into a trap right below the plywood. If I'm understanding your picture correctly, the hole in the back left of your trailer is the drain.

Since there was no grey tank, it just dumped right to ground.

A number of people are using the Hepvo Valve instead of a trap. Consider the Grey Tank from VTS to collect grey water. It's sized to fit between your frame rails.

John

Good to know the tub just sits on the floor - thought I was missing something. Still figuring this vent stuff out - I am looking at that Hepvo Valve page and see where they eliminate the vent from the line but I still need to vent the holding tanks, yes? And yeah, the hole in the picture was a PO's attempt to do a partial floor replacement with shell-on...but they gave up. That ply piece was toe-nailed in with a about an inch gap all around.

Also, my trailer seems to be somewhat off-norm in terms of cross-member spacing - the largest space I have is 17" between (on centers) - some as little as 13" - so the VTS tank isn't going to work unless I cut some steel. But, since I AM going to have cut some steel I want some options that VTS tank doesn't have...mainly slope. I'm looking at three diff tanks from Inca with larger capacity and slope - a fresh fore of the axles that straddles a cross-member, two different models for gray aft (one for galley, one for bath) with flush fittings that face each other so I can use a common flush valve off a T, and then the black with its own flush. I want sensors and a fairly low profile. Does that sound like a good plan? I've been vapor locked for weeks deciding on these darn tanks.

Kathy

[65CV]

Originally Posted by KCN

I've been vapor locked for weeks deciding on these darn tanks.
Kathy

So that you're not really vapor locked, you will need to vent all the tanks.

One thought -- most fresh water tanks are in the living area so that water can be carried with much less risk of freezing. If you plan to have it below decks, are you planning a drain at a low point in the tank?

[Max Well]

John,

Thanks, that's exactly what I was planning!

Ken

[KCN]

Originally Posted by 65CV

So that you're not really vapor locked, you will need to vent all the tanks.

One thought -- most fresh water tanks are in the living area so that water can be carried with much less risk of freezing. If you plan to have it below decks, are you planning a drain at a low point in the tank?

I do plan on having a drain point if I go below deck. Good point on the freezing, though...which made me start looking for tank heaters and found this site -

RV Holding Tank Heater on Sale - PPL Motor Homes

Any experience with these or any other tank heater? Thoughts?

Kathy

[KCN]

Got my interior skins all stripped. Truly dreadful job, five-six layers of various paint, down to the baked on enamel-finish of the zolatone. Probably going to have to replace the ceiling skins as they are pretty severely corroded around the old A/C opening as they were made of 7178 which, I understand, corrodes easily. The wall skins were not made of this same alloy, though.

Ordered my waste tanks, after much trepidation. The curbside bathtub will drain directly into a rear tank that will replicate what looks like what was in there originally - I found some old threads that showed a rear gray tank in a galvanized box..I believe mine had that as well, judging from the mystery bolt holes in the frame. Going with 2 Inca tanks - Bill O'dell has been very, very helpful. I agonized over drain lines for the shower, but I think I'll use the Hepvo valve (thank you, 65CV, for that information! ) and drain pretty directly into the gray positioned right beneath it. I'll use the smaller hepvo on the lav sink and connect it to the same line. The kitchen will have its own gray tank, positioned right behind the axles. I only have to move one cross member this way, and I can finally move onto the floor. I think I will go with the fresh tank I have and install it under the dinette..this project is hard enough for me without trying to add a below-deck tank.

I got the 3/4 marine ply this week - special ordered, spendy stuff. Absolutely terrified that I'm going to screw up the rear section I don't relish raising and lowering the shell to fix any mis-cuts. Sigh. Guess it will have to be done. Dragging my feet on this.

Did my fiberglass repairs on the front endcap last night - used bondo, hope it turned out okay.

Some super nice guys from Colorado School of Mines i.e. engineers opened a welding shop in Golden - they had some 14 ga. scrap and cut a new end plate for me; still have to have it put on a brake and then coat it with "stuff" (technical term.) Denver Welding & Research LLC (DWR) Homepage they do Aluminum fab too, so I'm sure I'll be using them for more "stuff."

Took the door apart, stripped it. I will make some replacement pieces as some are just too damaged to re-use. I have the new double hinges from VTS.

That's about it...now I have to start buying "stuff" like toilets, pumps, valves..I wake up at night and build things in my head. So strange. Along with worrying about my 3 kids (1 in law school, one a junior in college, one a high school senior) now I worry about what words like "extrusion" and "inverter" and "elevator bolts" mean. Just bought a book on RV electrical systems...such a noob.

Oh yeah - I also got my dent roller from Kip - who also taught me how to stretch/shrink angle..guess I need me one o' those dealies, too. Along with a router. Oddly enough, my favorite "tool" has been the shop stool I bought where I sit for hours at a time cleaning window and screen frames...I just love seeing that little HEHR emerge from the grime and corrosion..lit's like finding buried treasure each time...


Kathy

[65CV]

Kathy,

You're welcome for the link to the Hepvo valve. I haven't used one yet myself. For the first couple of trips, you might want to put a plug in the shower drain to be sure no grey water comes into the tub when driving. We used a "Oatey 1-1/2 in. Plastic Mechanical Test Plug" from Home Depot.

Are you treating the edges of the plywood with epoxy? After going to the expense of marine grade plywood, you might want to use West Systems Epoxy or a penetrating epoxy on the edge. In fact, I'd recommend it instead of epoxy for repairs on the fiberglass end caps. I'm not sure that epoxy and Bondo mix -- I think Bondo is polyester.

I use West Systems 105 Resin and either 205 or 206 hardener, depending on the time of year. It's great straight for structural stuff and works like bondo as a filler if you use the 410 Microlight filler. The trick is to use way more filler than you expect. Search for West Systems Epoxy on westmarine.com for one source.

Doing the same thing right now -- ordering tons of stuff from VTS.

Good progress,

John

[65CV]

Just got back from an auto body place and asked about whether bondo and fiberglass are compatible. They said yes.

[KCN]

Yep - did my bondo repair and one of the guys in one of the other storage units where I'm working stopped by - he works on custom cars/motorcycles in his - and thought it was good. (or at least he was kind and said it was.. )

Scored some 5 x 8 sheets of 5052 .025 for my belly pan on Friday - some 4 x 10 same material for the banana wraps. Very pleased - I don't have the metal-working skills/hands to work with thicker stuff and .025 was what my original pan was. Mostly psyched about the 5' width though

Also got the brilliant idea to see if my rear floor channels/back plate actually fit on my front ...and lo and behold, they were the same...which means I do have a solid template for the rear, as the front floor was intact. I've spent months assuming they were different...

Went to Timeless Travel Trailers on Thursday for a (private) tour of their shop and OMG. OMG. OMG. They are working on some of the coolest custom trailers... take a look at their website. Timeless Travel Trailers

Having new wheel wells made to replace the gross galvanized ones - mine were a bit tattered.

Almost have all the silicone grout/epoxy out of the windows ...almost....what a job. Gave up on trying to save the glass. The astrodome was also similarly sealed in place with a ton of silicone...and the cover didn't appreciate being stripped of it's layers of paint so it's a goner. Took my door apart and I'm still assessing which parts need to be replaced and which can be re-used.

Happy Veteran's day to all who have served. My thanks to you and your families.

[KCN]

Got my floor cut. Ended up using my 1/4" luan template to make a 1/2" MDF template and then used the router with a flush-trim bit with bearing to cut the corners. That marine ply is beastly heavy! Fingers are crossed that it will fit when it comes time to drop the shell back on. Those rear corner channels are in sad shape from corrosion so I'm working on replacing those somehow.

[KCN]

I have been doing stuff, but I'm slow. I guess I decided I like the clean belly lines and don't want any (or very minimal) plumbing exposed, so I'm following the lead of several others on here and going with two VTS tanks for my gray water. I am doing something different with the drains, however - I don't like the center drain on those tanks. I'll post pictures when I get it all together. I got all the tanks, valves and fittings, so I'm getting there.

Meanwhile, proving that I am not only slow but going to be anal as well, I had new wheel wells fabricated. Shiny new ones! Learned about "pittsburgh seams" and other such interesting stuff.

[KCN]

Got my gray tanks more or less in position; I'm installing drains coming out of the corner rather than the middle. I have to re-cut a section of my floor to accommodate the tank placement. I had my welder patch the hole in the frame rail, replaced the outrigger that had been cut out for some previous mysterious modification, and added a new cross member at the rear. Got my West System epoxy all ready to go for the floor edges (whenever it warms up - no snow, but cold).

Went to a "polishing party" a few weeks ago with some of the experts that live around here. Just got a box in the mail from Jestco today...my extra-thick buffing wheels!!

My window frames are are more or less done - three are at the welders , then it's off to get new glass.

KCN

[KCN]

I spent a lot of time looking for the drain for the tub before I found it in some thread long ago and then found it on VTS as well - a bar drain, duh. Here's a picture with the new HepVo - showing that it will indeed fit in my tiny little rail space (less than 4"). I'll cut the floor for it later since I don't trust myself to hit the exact spot until the walls are back in. I'm leaving an access panel in my belly pan for this drain area anyway.

I wish I had ordered my VTS tanks without the flush (recessed) spin-welded fittings for my drain, the reason being that the threads are on the inside of the tank and a good half inch off the bottom of the tank, which inhibits drainage and is a concern people have raised before on these forums. A raised fitting would have the threads on the outside and allow for better drainage. I'm having mine added locally and will plug the flush fittings. Still, I'm a sucker for a nice, flat belly, so the VTS tanks still win.

Out-of-doors mart is carrying step outriggers so I ordered a pair of those. I figure it's easier than having a welder make a template, cut, etc.. We may just sister the face onto the existing outrigger rather than replace the whole thing.

Started cutting and fitting the belly-pan. The rear is largely guess-work as it was so badly deteriorated. I'm doing it in three sections rather than the 2 piece original.

Shiny Wheel Wells were too big so they are being reworked.

Having the two rear curved floor channel sections fabbed. A week here, a week there...it sure adds up to a slow trailer.

Registered for the Vintage Trailer Academy...

Oh, and that's my 5 month old lab, who loves "helping."

[KCN]

Scored some 40# Worthington LP tanks on a local craigslist ad - twenty minutes from my house! That just doesn't happen! Regulator, re-valved...I was looking for 30's but these are fine.

Outriggers for step came in. Reinforced with angle on the reverse side, better than OEM, so I will be happy to have them installed.

Spliced the long drain line runs using the fermco fittings; they also double as rubber grommets in the frame holes I cut. My welder had used a cutting torch on the one side to run the drain line and I used a bi-metal hole saw on the other. More room to play with the pipe angle in the torched holes, but not as tidy a cut.

Got all my spin-weld fittings done/re-done/plugged at The Metal Company in Denver, plus picked up a roll of butyl tape.

New corner channels are done.

Hmmm, what else? Oh, yeah - got my window glazing strips in from VTS so all the windows are being finished today - I did go with tempered glass, probably overkill, and I am having them professionally cut/glazed/installed. Also got the new bulb seal for installing them in the trailer. The old seal was like cement.

Next step is to attach the floor and do a test fit to see if the shell fits before I attach the belly pan. This is the part that has me truly terrified.



Kathy

[HiHoAgRV]

You are slugging away inspite of the weather!

re-setting the shell can be worrysome. I mounted the C channel on both sides but not the ends or curves. I started with the sides making sure they were even and clecoed them first. The front needed to be pulled sideways for the two curves to match and THEN I bolted down the end/curved C channels. the rear went pretty good. Once everything was aligned and the C channels were screwed to the floor, I slightly lifted the shell from one end at a time, thru bolted the end C channel and wrapped up the bellypan.

Kind of a long approach but I have seen folks who attached the C channel to the floor, dropped the shell and started riveting only to find the shell didn't fit the C channel.

Oh yeah, check the width of the door opening top and bottom before you rivet the shell. Mine is slightly wider at the bottom due to previous floor repairs. I had bolted a piece of ply across the opening to make sure it didn't move but didn't realize that it was already out of wack.

[utee94]

Hi Kathy, I just found and got caught up on your thread, it's looking great so far and you're actually moving very quickly though it probably doesn't seem like it.

I know you've been using Vernon and John's threads for reference, which are really great sources. And you might have already seen these, but in case you haven't, here are some more links for reference:

Frank Yensan's 1962 Overlander blog, where he provides details on his trailer restoration that is very much like yours: Anna Lumanum (Blogs tend to have most recent posts first, so you'll want to read in reverse order to get it chronologically correct.)

Uwe's famous "63 for me" thread about his 1963 Overlander: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f142...ler-11687.html

And Norm's blog for his '59 Overlander which is still pretty similar to yours: Capt. Wilson's Overlander

And here's a link to a thread with links to a huge number of the major renovations performed by others on this Forum, lots of great info in there, even if some of them are pretty lengthy!

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...ons-35399.html

Good luck!
-Marcus

[KCN]

Thanks, Marcus. Glad SOMEBODY thinks my progress is ok. I get a lot of grief from various angles for being slow.... Amazing how many people think I'm going to give up on this.

Lots of travel last month (college recruiting trips for daughter #3, also went to Italy to see daughter #2) and lots of snow the last month, but got some things done in the breaks.

Finally gave up on ever getting warm weather, so I used some 16 mil plastic sheeting I had hanging around to enclose a bay in my garage and heated it with a propane heater my dad gave me and THEN I got the edges of my floor sealed with the West marine epoxy stuff. Note to self: buy the measuring pumps next time, makes mixing easier than the shot glasses I used. Just did the edges, so it doesn't look that nice, like doing the whole sheet would.

Got the rear attachment plate and new step outrigger welded in place. The new outrigger was deeper than the others on my trailer, so I had him cut the face plate off and spliced it onto the face of the existing step outrigger. The "hook" on the new plate still isn't quite deep enough so I need to grind it out a little more. Did POR 15 on the new steel and welds.

Wheel wells got re-done and seem to fit this time, so I'm going to put them on, then attach the floor.

The gentleman who built my new corner channels (will post pics, look better than OEM, very, very happy with them) works with years 1958-1962 only and confirmed my suspicion that my trailer has oddities consistent with each of those years. Would like to run my VIN to see who it was built for originally.

Also have been working on getting all the nasty black sealer off the inside of the trailer as well - Kleen Strip works well, just in the 30 degree weather nothing really works "well."

Next tool purchase: electric shears - using the hand snips makes edges I just don't like. Have cut some of the belly and don't like the way the edges look.

Oh, and I laid the first layer of fiberglass on my old Astrodome. Thought I'd give a try at repairing it vs buying a new one.



Kathy