'62 Overlander... new girl on the block

[KCN]

Well, here goes. I bought a 62 Overlander on June 22, 2012. Doing a complete re-store/re-build - learning as I go. Hauled it home 8 hours, so the axles must be ok. From what I can gather it spent a significant amount of its life in Mexico, it was obviously well-used and poorly cared for. It's my mid-life crisis project - my husband and kids are just shaking their heads. So far the trailer has produced a collection of pesos from the cracks and an unfired round from an AK-47...

I'm doing a shell-off total floor replacement, total interior re-do. Not what I'd envisioned originally, but it's what's happening. The exterior skin is in great shape, considering. I rented a 50' x 20' storage unit and am doing the work there.

So I've just completed gutting the trailer to the bones -worst thing so far is the broken rib under where an incredibly heavy air conditioner had sat for a long time (question: is the A/C factory? I see other pics of trailers with a similar unit. Can't believe AS would put such a heavy unit on this trailer.)

The rib is broken in two places as well as the center splice. I guess (another question coming) I have to remove the whole rib and have it replaced?? The stringers, as noted on several other threads, are loose and coming down as they were loose to begin with?

The A/C had also caused the roof rivets to pull out of the rest of the next two ribs and stringers - causing leaks no doubt - which the PO had filled in with lots of gray blobs of glue. The A/C had also caused significant corrosion in the interior of the ceiling panels...looking like a replacement of those long panels as well as the bathroom panels....

End caps are in great shape except for several ugly layers of paint. Question: Suggestions for stripping the fiberglass end caps?

Anyway, I bought it cheap, that's the good news

KC

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by KCN

Well, here goes. I bought a 62 Overlander on June 22, 2012. Doing a complete re-store/re-build - learning as I go. Hauled it home 8 hours, so the axles must be ok. From what I can gather it spent a significant amount of its life in Mexico, it was obviously well-used and poorly cared for. It's my mid-life crisis project - my husband and kids are just shaking their heads. So far the trailer has produced a collection of pesos from the cracks and an unfired round from an AK-47...

I'm doing a shell-off total floor replacement, total interior re-do. Not what I'd envisioned originally, but it's what's happening. The exterior skin is in great shape, considering. I rented a 50' x 20' storage unit and am doing the work there.

So I've just completed gutting the trailer to the bones -worst thing so far is the broken rib under where an incredibly heavy air conditioner had sat for a long time (question: is the A/C factory? I see other pics of trailers with a similar unit. Can't believe AS would put such a heavy unit on this trailer.)

The rib is broken in two places as well as the center splice. I guess (another question coming) I have to remove the whole rib and have it replaced?? The stringers, as noted on several other threads, are loose and coming down as they were loose to begin with?

The A/C had also caused the roof rivets to pull out of the rest of the next two ribs and stringers - causing leaks no doubt - which the PO had filled in with lots of gray blobs of glue. The A/C had also caused significant corrosion in the interior of the ceiling panels...looking like a replacement of those long panels as well as the bathroom panels....

End caps are in great shape except for several ugly layers of paint. Question: Suggestions for stripping the fiberglass end caps?

Anyway, I bought it cheap, that's the good news

KC

KC.

I doubt that 50 year old torsion axle rubber rods are still in decent condition.

The following article will help you deciding for sure, or not.

The Dura-Torque Axle

Andy

[HiHoAgRV]

Cool! another early '60's Overlander!

I would be really surprised if the original axles are still useable, they may be the reason the AC unit beat up the roof so badly.

I stripped my endcaps with Citri Strip and fabbed a new rib from sheet aluminum and a wooden form.

The details are in:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ml#post1175556

Keep us posted on your efforts...we LOVE photos!

[KCN]

Thanks, Andy - I've read a lot of your replies on other posts - appreciate the article. I had pulled the original advert on the axle...you are no doubt correct that at 50 years old the axles aren't good. Was planning on pulling the shell off first (?) and seeing what I have, or don't have. Total novice, with a very non-mechanical husband, so I'm appreciating the advice.

Off to buy an air compressor and rivet removing tools...

KC

[KCN]

Can my broken rib be welded/spliced or should it be replaced entirely? I know they are spliced in the center already - this would add two more splices approximately 18 inches to either side of the center splice.

Thanks

KC

[HiHoAgRV]

Originally Posted by KCN

Can my broken rib be welded/spliced or should it be replaced entirely? I know they are spliced in the center already - this would add two more splices approximately 18 inches to either side of the center splice.

Thanks

KC

I'm sure if you get 10 reply's, atleast 9 will have different opinions

I would splice it before I considered removing the rib...IF it's possible to push it back into the proper position. If it's bent so bad that you can't reform it, then I would pull it out and work from there...

[KCN]

Making progress. Bought an aircraft rivet removal tool and an air drill which is making the exterior buck rivet removal process easier...but I must admit, a 4" thin-blade putty knife slipped into a seam and hammered along the pop rivet line at an angle has been simply amazing - slices them clean and then use a punch used to remove the rivet carcasses. I removed all the interior skins solo in about an hour with no hole damage and I'm even using it occasionally on the buck rivets with some success as well.

Since I have to have some interior panels refabbed --- they won't match those that were okay...so I'll have to re-fab the others for cosmetic reasons?

Started building my bracing for removing the shell...using 2x6 as suggested on other blogs, width, length and cross.

The GOOEY black glue/gunk around the a/c unit - how to remove that stuff so I can get the rivets out?

Also the HARDENED black glue/gunk used to adhere the old insulation to the walls/seal random seams, (esp along floor channel) etc... - ok to leave it in place? Not sure it would be worth it to remove it.

Drip rails are all bent to heck - should they be removed/replaced or can they be straightened in place?

Is there a schematic available that shows the original position of the water tanks? Gray, black, fresh- mine had been removed prior to my purchase. Same question for wiring.

Took the door apart, need to have a screen made. In pretty good shape, except for extra holes the PO added with screws, etc.. best way to fill those?? Will replace the insulation.


KCN

[Wabbiteer]

On the bracing - remember you're adding weight too, if you'll never use them as a lift point 2x3's will keep the dimensions stable just as well.

That rib is an excellent candidate for scabbing a plate over - I'd go with 125" thick aluminum plate on both sides, cut the arc shape into them to butt the edges against the flanges, make it 12 or 16-inches long and zig-zag a flock of rivets in there. If you're using pop rivets, alternate sides, use backing washers and look for 'structural type' or just get Olympics as the rivet brand.

Hardend caulk (if it is caulk) will usually yield to a heat gun and some worrying with a putty knife, but beware gouging-scratching the aluminum in the process.

Just a note for you & future readers - the hammer-shear method works fine on fine (1/8") rivets right up until you encounter one that has a steel mandrel shaft versus the factory aluminum type - the mandrel is the nail-like shaft used to set the rivet. I found plenty of DIY or shop repairs that had the steel mandrels in my interior, trying to shear those will double-plus enlarge the drilled hole. When you find those (usually evidenced by a rusty center) it is time to take a fine punch and push in the iron core enough an electric drill will cut the shoulder ring off. Wrestling them out when there was a gap between sheets so they double-expanded is no fun, each one is different!

[HiHoAgRV]

Originally Posted by KCN

Making progress. ...Is there a schematic available that shows the original position of the water tanks? Gray, black, fresh- mine had been removed prior to my purchase. Same question for wiring.

...

KCN

The black tank was mounted above the floor and below the toilet, it only held 12 gallons or so. There never was a gray tank.

The water tank was either under the bed or all the way up front. The position can be determined by where the hole in the skin is for the water fill tube.

Wiring was a mess. Mine had all of the 12V on a single circuit with splices scattered everywhere. I can't think of any reason to replicate that mess. 120V was only slightly better and really should be replaced/redesigned since you are in that deep already.

[KCN]

Also - when dismantling the galley wall - there was a sheet of metal over the underlying skin - double wall essentially. The back was printed with "Sanka" and "Scrap - do not use" wondered if AS made a practice (good business, in my opinion, just curious) of using scrap in this area?

[KCN]

Originally Posted by Wabbiteer

On the bracing - remember you're adding weight too, if you'll never use them as a lift point 2x3's will keep the dimensions stable just as well.

That rib is an excellent candidate for scabbing a plate over - I'd go with 125" thick aluminum plate on both sides, cut the arc shape into them to butt the edges against the flanges, make it 12 or 16-inches long and zig-zag a flock of rivets in there. If you're using pop rivets, alternate sides, use backing washers and look for 'structural type' or just get Olympics as the rivet brand.

Hardend caulk (if it is caulk) will usually yield to a heat gun and some worrying with a putty knife, but beware gouging-scratching the aluminum in the process.

Just a note for you & future readers - the hammer-shear method works fine on fine (1/8") rivets right up until you encounter one that has a steel mandrel shaft versus the factory aluminum type - the mandrel is the nail-like shaft used to set the rivet. I found plenty of DIY or shop repairs that had the steel mandrels in my interior, trying to shear those will double-plus enlarge the drilled hole. When you find those (usually evidenced by a rusty center) it is time to take a fine punch and push in the iron core enough an electric drill will cut the shoulder ring off. Wrestling them out when there was a gap between sheets so they double-expanded is no fun, each one is different!

Here's a picture of the broken center splice as well - would you suggest a longer plate here also? And how to get these rivets out - i guess put the rib in a standard table top vise for some stability and drill them out? Thanks

[KCN]

Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV

The black tank was mounted above the floor and below the toilet, it only held 12 gallons or so. There never was a gray tank.

The water tank was either under the bed or all the way up front. The position can be determined by where the hole in the skin is for the water fill tube.

Wiring was a mess. Mine had all of the 12V on a single circuit with splices scattered everywhere. I can't think of any reason to replicate that mess. 120V was only slightly better and really should be replaced/redesigned since you are in that deep already.

Cool - I agree on the wiring - gonna yank it all and have new put in...and going to try to have a solar powered backup battery somewhere/somehow....

Good news on the black tank - there are also now toilets that use above-toilet mounted grey water to flush the bowl - have you seen these for trailers/RV's by chance?

I found the fresh tank but it was stored under an add-on bench a PO had built and I couldn't tell where it had been originally...I'll look for the opening in the shell.

Thanks!

KCN

[Wabbiteer]

A razor honed narrow wood chisel will cut the rivet heads away with light and even percussion blows. Load the rib slack up outwards, against the shell and have a tap fest. If you want the experience of drilling start it with a fine needle sized bit and then go to the 1/8" or wire sized bit.

"Note: 6063-T5 grade aluminum –corrosion-resistant. With simple heat treatment, 6063-T5 is as strong as mild steel. Currently used for extrusion and ribs."

^^ So the rib mend plates need to be equal to the existing, not as soft as the pretzle that you're removing Order Aluminum 6063 Rectangle in Small Quantities at OnlineMetals.com<-- Would be just one source to consider. I'd be tempted to wedge the ribs tight to the shell and re-rivet the whole rib before inserting the mending plate but I did just get 6 or 7 pounds of buck rivets in assorted flavors

[HiHoAgRV]

Here is a great resource for rivet stuff..

Welcome To The Yard

I use one of these to center drill the rivets

Rivet Removal Tool

and then drill all the way thru with a 1/8 bit

[KCN]

Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV

Here is a great resource for rivet stuff..

Welcome To The Yard

I use one of these to center drill the rivets

Rivet Removal Tool

and then drill all the way thru with a 1/8 bit

Exactly the tool I bought...paid a little more for it than these folks have it listed, though, so I'm glad to know about this site - thanks.

KCN

[KCN]

Okay.... liftoff achieved... hidden rivets holding the ribs to the channel were buried beneath overlapping external skins...those were fun. I got my oldest daughter to help me install the bracing (as suggested, I used 2x6 across the width at lift points, 2x3 diagonal and 2x3 length) cribbed it up using a spud bar until I got it high enough to use the little car jacks with the 4" clearance - so handy. The two of us did just fine by ourselves. Once separation happened the shell actually shifted/adjusted itself about 1/2 inch to one side (I probably should have leveled the trailer before building/installing the bracing, but whatever...I got away with eyeballing it) . So now it awaits another 6" of temporary height so I can clear the wheel wells when I pull the chassis out.

Decided to get the chassis out post haste as I know there is a huge amount of work that needs to be done on it, if not total rebuild. Will take and post pics of the floor channel and and hope some of you will chime in as to whether you think the channel is re-usable or not.

Also posted a picture of that center rib that was in pieces...

KC

[Wabbiteer]

I cheated and removed the wheel well covers before I moved the chassis/frame.

(Edit: but they were the cheap-o plastic ones inner & outer that wanted to be loose more than they wanted to be installed)

[KCN]

The trailer had a partial and very terrible awful rear floor replacement at some time in the past. As a result, I'm not sure what the original specs were and from what I've read, with AS engineering being relatively EXACT, I'm worried that my new floor will be the wrong size.

Suggestions on how to handle this?

Posting pix of some of the ugliness.

Thx all - appreciate all the input.

KC

[HiHoAgRV]

My '63 had the same rear-botomy...I left extra wood and didn't trim it until I re-set the shell. I also didn't install the end C channels until the shell was lowered. That let me push the c channels into the corners, make sure everything was square and THEN saw the curves and rear to length. Of course that meant re-lifting that end of the shell, sawing wood, re sealing, attaching the C channel, rapping the belly pan, lowering the shell...

[Wabbiteer]

I'm glad it was HiHoAgRV who said that first...

Wow. Nice shop! We did our '73 outside and had weather push us too fast beyond the fitting steps, the back radius went from too large to too small in the blink of an eye. Patience wins the contest on the stage you're at now!