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02-15-2010, 09:33 AM
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#61
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Rivet Master
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,177
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That's too bad Susan. I'm surprised you are having that much trouble with them. I was able to do this myself on the Safari without too much work. Did you get ply thats thicker than original? Have you cut the bolts that go through the C-channel and the ends of the outriggers to release the walls from the floor?
Rich the Viking
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02-15-2010, 12:05 PM
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#62
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3 Rivet Member
1962 26' Overlander
Daleville
, Alabama
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 144
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Rich, yes we made sure all the bolts and the screws around the edge were removed and we cleaned (wire brushed and used a grinder) and painted the frame. Plus we cleaned the chanel that runs around the base of the exterior skin on the inside.Our exterior shell, banana wrap and belly are still intact, I think thats what made it so difficult, it just didn,t want to give. But those too are in now and look great, gives it a much sturdier feeling even though its not all fastened down yet. And of cause nothing in my book compares to the smell of new wood. Oh and we did use same thikness. Susan
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02-15-2010, 12:19 PM
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#63
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Rivet Master
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,177
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I found that working at the ends of the trailer it was more difficult to spread the sides out, meaning that the first and last pieces were the hardest to get in place. I was also able to lift the shell up a little with a jack and some 2x4s to help slide the new piece under the wall. I didn't see any lifting mechanism in your pics.
I'm a lifelong woodworker, so I understand the draw of new wood smell. To me its like a good cup of coffee in the morning.
BTW, I love the ORANGE frame.
Rich the Viking
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02-15-2010, 02:55 PM
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#64
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3 Rivet Member
1962 26' Overlander
Daleville
, Alabama
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 144
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Here are some pictures of a trailer we managed to buy for just $300. Everything in it is fully functional. We intend to use as many of the appliances etc that we can. This is as we pulled it home, it was used as a full time home by the PO.
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02-15-2010, 03:00 PM
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#65
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3 Rivet Member
1962 26' Overlander
Daleville
, Alabama
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 144
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more pictures.
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02-15-2010, 03:08 PM
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#66
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3 Rivet Member
1962 26' Overlander
Daleville
, Alabama
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 144
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Any suggestions please jump in. Thanks!
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02-18-2010, 10:52 AM
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#67
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3 Rivet Member
1962 26' Overlander
Daleville
, Alabama
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 144
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2 days to finish floor.
Bo has today and tomorrow off. So we would like to finish up the floor ready for one of the older boys (Luke) to run new wiring on Saturday. So heres a few pics of what we,ve done today so far.
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02-18-2010, 11:04 AM
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#68
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3 Rivet Member
1962 26' Overlander
Daleville
, Alabama
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 144
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We don,t intend replacing any of the insullation in the walls as it all looks really good. Unlike the floor, this is the area under where the stove would have been. Notice the second pic (The AS brain ????? lol.). We found several blobs of this stuff scattered under rotted areas.
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02-18-2010, 11:14 AM
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#69
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3 Rivet Member
1962 26' Overlander
Daleville
, Alabama
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 144
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Question?
Can someone tell us what the following is for? We guess its some kind of vent pipe as it would be behind the stove and runs up the wall to this thing on the roof. The problem is that when it snowed last week. we had water running in the end thats inside. So if we need to keep it we need to put some kind of plate over the roof end. Please advise. Thanks Susan
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02-18-2010, 11:23 AM
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#70
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3 Rivet Member
1962 26' Overlander
Daleville
, Alabama
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 144
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We have also cleaned up the rear and Bo is cutting out crossmembers and outriggers ready to weld new ones in. Hopefully late this afternoon.
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02-18-2010, 01:51 PM
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#71
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Rivet Master
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,177
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That's the vent for the plumbing that drains the sink and shower, most likely. The cover that keeps rain out is missing from the top of the pipe . Try VTS for that.
You're making good progress. Keep it up. Great score on the donor trailer!
Rich the Viking
You should also seal around the pipe where it penetrates the roof.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bo&Susan
Can someone tell us what the following is for? We guess its some kind of vent pipe as it would be behind the stove and runs up the wall to this thing on the roof. The problem is that when it snowed last week. we had water running in the end thats inside. So if we need to keep it we need to put some kind of plate over the roof end. Please advise. Thanks Susan
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02-18-2010, 05:00 PM
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#72
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4 Rivet Member
1962 28' Ambassador
1962 30' Sovereign
Currently Looking...
Webster Groves
, Missouri
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VIKING
That's the vent for the plumbing that drains the sink and shower, most likely. The cover that keeps rain out is missing from the top of the pipe . Try VTS for that.
You're making good progress. Keep it up. Great score on the donor trailer!
Rich the Viking
You should also seal around the pipe where it penetrates the roof.
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Neither of my '62's have any covers on the vents ... 'cept the beer cans from a po!
Bob
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02-18-2010, 05:42 PM
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#73
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Vintage Alum. Enthusiast
1959 24' Tradewind
Phoenix
, Arizona
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: I currently do not own a 2nd Airstream
Posts: 4,360
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I don't have any covers on mine either. The little bit of rain that falls into it just runs down and joins the grey water. Not that it rains much here anyway.
Brad
FF
__________________
4CU 2699 / AIR 10 / TAC AZ-1
I'm haunted by aluminum.
Charter Member of the 4 Corners Unit.
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02-18-2010, 05:59 PM
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#74
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3 Rivet Member
1962 26' Overlander
Daleville
, Alabama
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 144
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Redneck quick fix.
Thanks Guys, We`ll "duct tape" a "beer can" over it tomorrow. That should fix it until we have a grey tank. Susan.
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02-18-2010, 06:07 PM
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#75
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4 Rivet Member
1962 28' Ambassador
1962 30' Sovereign
Currently Looking...
Webster Groves
, Missouri
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bo&Susan
Thanks Guys, We`ll "duct tape" a "beer can" over it tomorrow. That should fix it until we have a grey tank. Susan.
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If you "can-opener" it with a hand unit then it will have a friction fit ... mine withstood 60 mph and many years!
Bob
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02-18-2010, 08:11 PM
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#76
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3 Rivet Member
1962 26' Overlander
Daleville
, Alabama
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 144
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Help
Having never owned any kind of trailer or motorhome we need some help regards the plumbing and electrics also vents which seem to be important with propane. we plan on electric fridge, ac/heat (roof unit), water heater, the only thing propane will be the stove. grey tank and fresh tank placement. We need help with it all, water pump type and placement, electric box placement and anything else we need. this is a rough floorplan. Thanks Susan.
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02-18-2010, 08:21 PM
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#77
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4 Rivet Member
1968 24' Tradewind
1959 17' Pacer
Vintage Kin Owner
holly springs
, Georgia
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 405
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Cool thread, no top on the vent that I know of either, But it would be a good idea to remove the vent pipe cover install a screen cover (to keep critters out) over the pipe, put on a new gasket all gooped up with sikaflex 221 and then reinstall the vent pipe cover.
I pull my AS around with a 54 ford 600 tractor whats yours a Massey?
Kevin
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02-18-2010, 08:33 PM
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#78
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3 Rivet Member
1962 26' Overlander
Daleville
, Alabama
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 144
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Yes its a Massey, PO had AS bogged down in field so my hubby took the tractor to pull it out. and so just went ahead and pulled it the 1/4 mile home. Thanks for the tip on screen over pipe, hate critters! Susan.
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02-18-2010, 09:22 PM
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#79
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Vintage Alum. Enthusiast
1959 24' Tradewind
Phoenix
, Arizona
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: I currently do not own a 2nd Airstream
Posts: 4,360
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bo&Susan
Having never owned any kind of trailer or motorhome we need some help regards the plumbing and electrics also vents which seem to be important with propane. we plan on electric fridge, ac/heat (roof unit), water heater, the only thing propane will be the stove. grey tank and fresh tank placement. We need help with it all, water pump type and placement, electric box placement and anything else we need. this is a rough floorplan. Thanks Susan.
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I like your rough draft on placement and items internally. I would recommend you put the city water connection towards the rear, behind the wheel(s) on the streetside and the water tank fill typically goes on the front, one side of the other just outside of the front window and just above the height of the water tank.
Make sure to put in a water pressure regulator in the system to reduce the amount of pressure in your lines. You will not need that kind of pressure as in your house.
I have a diagram drew up before putting in my water system. I'll post it here. Ask if you have any questions. Its pretty basic and not set up for winterizing since it doesn't get cold enough here.
Brad
FF
__________________
4CU 2699 / AIR 10 / TAC AZ-1
I'm haunted by aluminum.
Charter Member of the 4 Corners Unit.
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02-19-2010, 12:33 PM
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#80
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3 Rivet Member
1962 26' Overlander
Daleville
, Alabama
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 144
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Huge thanks!
Thank you so much that really helps. Our city supply is street side but just in front of the wheels. We,d planned on leaving it as is, as it seems in good condition. Is this a pressure reg thats on it? Is it too out dated should we change it? Also do you happen to have kept your electracal layout? If so would you mind if we used it as a guide or can you suggest a place for us to look. We intend to use shore, 12volt and generater when we need to. Once again thankyou. Susan
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