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Overlander & Sea · 08-23-2008, 02:29 PM

On the modern 7 pin plug, isn't 1 pin for backup lights that can be modified to charge the battery on these older AS?

markdoane · 08-23-2008, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Overlander & Sea

On the modern 7 pin plug, isn't 1 pin for backup lights that can be modified to charge the battery on these older AS?

Yes, excellent point. I have added backup lights on mine, so that option didn't occur to me.

Also, you can buy pigtails with all #14 wire, or the ones with #10 wire for the ground and charge line, #12 for the brakes, and #14 for the lighting circuits. Obviously the cable with the larger wires is better if you are rewiring.

NatchezBear · 08-24-2008, 12:16 AM

Im going to try a battery and 12 volt line from TV. I dont have a fax but would like the diagram. I think i will just locate a 12 plug and reciptical that fit, I hate to see a hole in the skin not in use. What Ireally need is diagram showing how wires get to ceiling and any thing else I need to disconnect to avoid shorts.
Thanks for your help
NatchezBear

overlander63 · 08-24-2008, 06:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Overlander & Sea

On the modern 7 pin plug, isn't 1 pin for backup lights that can be modified to charge the battery on these older AS?

The center pin is for backup lights. Since I have never seen a 1960 with backup lights, you would only need 6 wires to the plug. One of those wires is already a 12 volt feed.
Though keeping things original is a desirable goal, I would install the 7 pin plug. You could run the charge line through the plug, then separate the wire to enter the coach at the original spot.

markdoane · 08-24-2008, 07:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by overlander63

. . . One of those wires is already a 12 volt feed.
.

Au contraire, my friend Terry, see post 19. He may, however, use the original brake light line, which isn't used anymore on trailers. To do this, combine the high and low filaments of the brake/turn signal lamps.

The original tail lights had a single bulb for the running lights, and a dual element bulb for the separate turn signal and brake lights. Modern trailer tail lights have combined the brake and turn signal into one light, so a separate brake light circuit isn't needed.

The original brake light wire was #14. I would rewire it, and the ground wire, with #10 wire to get decent voltage from the tow vehicle to the trailer battery.

NatchezBear · 08-24-2008, 11:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by markdoane

Au contraire, my friend Terry, see post 19. He may, however, use the original brake light line, which isn't used anymore on trailers. To do this, combine the high and low filaments of the brake/turn signal lamps.

The original tail lights had a single bulb for the running lights, and a dual element bulb for the separate turn signal and brake lights. Modern trailer tail lights have combined the brake and turn signal into one light, so a separate brake light circuit isn't needed.

The original brake light wire was #14. I would rewire it, and the ground wire, with #10 wire to get decent voltage from the tow vehicle to the trailer battery.

I never knew Forum participation could be so stimulating not to mention informative. I want to thank everyone for their tech info. I have 06' ford TV and it comes with a flat plug as well as 7 prong connectors side by side. With this I have a variety of options to go with. I first was just going to run a heavy wire from TV battery to rear truck bumper ,so a quick connection could be done to the 12 V plug on front of camper. I noticed I don't have clearance lights, side 12 v porch lights or compartment lights which apparently most campers have and as Terry says 60's don't have back up lights. I had found an adorable set of BU lights and thought I would add them as well as the before mentioned.I like Terry's idea of using the back up wire as 12 v lead in to camper. I still want the wire to come out of original 12 v curb side plug (just for the look and originality). When I first got her I wired a temp flat plug just to have lights to get home on. Now I can put whatever connector I want on front of camper. Still I need A all the time hot connection on back of TV.
Marks suggestion of wiring the brake/turn lights scares me, but I see how it can work. I have been exploring the 12 v system in my AS and I have determined that I have two red battery leads under dinette (no Battery) I then have two heavy blue wires (to the external plug I think) one lite white wire and a med green wire and a black with inline fuse.All have been spliced in to what looks to me like something that wont work.On the other side of the dinette out comes blk (which has only one half of inline fuse connected) grn wht and blu. Wht & blu are cut off and end in electric closet.grn is cut off and ends under the sink. I still don't see and don't know what wires go to two 12 v lights on ceiling. These are the focus of my wanting 12 v power in camper. I will next find the right battery and see what happens when I make connections.

NatchezBear · 08-24-2008, 11:58 AM

"Here I go all Ass and no Brains"

NatchezBear · 08-24-2008, 06:28 PM

Im not sure where she was made Id # is 26TO278 does that help figure out where she came from?

Overlander & Sea · 08-24-2008, 07:25 PM

I think it's California made. But you my want to check vintageairstream.com
Here' the link to the '60 Overlander's VIN's and pictures.

http://www.vintageairstream.com/arch...der/index.html

overlander63 · 08-24-2008, 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by markdoane

Au contraire, my friend Terry, see post 19.

I guess I should have specified that one of the six wires in the 7 prong plug is a 12 volt charge line, so an additional one is not required. If the trailer is wired with a standard 7 pin plug, and tow vehicle with that plug can tow it, and will charge the battery, when it is equipped with a battery.