Relapse - 1956 Sovereign of the Road

[Dave Park]

I'm following multiple paths... The heat is just too much some days from about 12-4pm, so instead I come indoors and do something else. There are a lot of little things like these openers where knowing what the options are allows us two or three months to locate parts or work out a way to make them. Being able to take our time finding what we need saves money as we get to shop around

[soldiermedic]

It looks like casement windows have a similar crank. I found this one, but it is a discontinued as of right now.

[robandzoe]

Originally Posted by Dave Park

We've hit a snag with the window operators.

These handles have a 1/4" bar, and one handle can open every window. The replacement handles on VTS' website are a knurled socket that fits onto a knurled knob on the operator.

My only solution is to buy those, then epoxy 1" lengths of 1/4" stock in each one. Any better solutions, or a source for the correct handles, as we don't want to blow $250+ on new operators just because of handles.

Trust me, after looking for 5 plus years and watching these old openers strip and windows go flapped in the wind, you are gonna want to go with all new openers.. of which you will have to modify as well to make work. These big old Hehr Standards are hard to keep tight!! I've bought many 1958 trailers to try to stay as original as possible with openers, but the new ones close with so much more pressure. Good luck on the hunt. I'll have to look.. I might have a couple spare openers with this 1/4 shaft.

Rob

[Melody Ranch]

Rob, What type/and source/ opener are you using. The ones I got all the gears stripped out within a week. I went back to the originals till I can find a good, non China made replacement.

[Dave Park]

Which gears stripped out? The gears on the screw or the gears on the bar?

[Dave Park]

Hi all,

I have been working on pouring the pad so I could move the AS to the back where it would be more secure and less visible. That work is done now, and I have made a large gate in the fence. We have the remains of Tropical Storm Don coming through tomorrow so I hope to move the AS either before or after that.

I have half the floor up, and it's revealed an interesting problem that has altered how I will approach the floor replacement:

The floor by the door completely rotted away, and so the wall from the door back to the wheel arch is sitting in air and the whole curbside wall has slightly eased out. This means I cannot do a half and half, rear then front replacement. I need to lift ALL the floor, then alight the c-channel on both sides to be dead straight over a level frame, THEN install the floor. Meanwhile, I have been installing 3/4" spacers on each outrigger to hold the shell up. I won't remove any more floor until the AS is on the pad and I have it laser leveled.

Meanwhile, I started the design of the new interior. I had told Steve I'd have first drafts with him next Thursday - which highlighted an interesting language difference between regional British and American English. In my part of England, "this Thursday" is the coming Thursday and "next Thursday" is the Thursday after that. DW tells me that I can't say that here. Anyway, the first draft was due on Thursday and I have just got started on it.

I started by taking the rough measurements of the old interior and putting them on paper then transferring them to the computer. Now I am working on the replacements, leaving blank areas that are still undecided - particularly the bathroom/shower.

We've also started tracking down materials to make the skin repairs. We're replacing about half the street side roof panel where the smoke stack was, the ss rear quarter panel (too many holes and too much corrosion), and re-skinning the street side lower panel outside where the stove goes, again too many holes and out-of-period modifications.

I bought a welder and did some practice welds, glad to see I've still got it, so we're about 90% ready to do the frame work. Just need to see what we have, and if the condition of the frame continues to be as good. Got to get the AS moved and get the last of that floor up. We'll be replacing one or two cross-members, and it will need a new rear bumper. We'll coat it in Chassis Saver. A new hitch is in order - once it's moved I can start removing the old ones.

Right now I'm behind where I wanted to be, mostly due to the brutal heat and the side-projects that took much longer than expected. I naively thought I could lay a pad in a day and it ended up taking a week and a half, and that's not to complete it, just to do enough to get the AS on it.

In a week or so, we can arrange a weekend where people can come over and we can do some catch-up Also, I need to get together with Melody Ranch on the panel work. I've done some work on a much newer trailer, but it didn't involve any cutting and just very basic riveting of a flat, straight, square panel - this'll be different.

Once it's moved I'll post some new photos and you'll be able to see what Steve didn't believe when I told him, until he saw it in person - the frame is in really good shape for 55 years old - it looks better than most of the 70s frames we've seen on here.

Which is good news

[3Ms75Argosy]

Nice report Dave! You still are making good time on this... I laughed at the regional time difference between British and American.... sure you got your streetside and curbside straight?

If you jack the center of the roof up (front to back) from the frame... won't that just pull the sides in? Then you could do the front/back routine as you planned.
Just a thought.
Marc

[Dave Park]

I'm going to measure the exact floor width at the front just before the endcap, and at the back before the endcap, and average them. I will also measure both the diagonals and make sure the set-up i square, so I don't introduce twist at the endcaps either. I will then have a dead straight floor and dead straight walls. I can't do this until I have the trailer laser leveled, though. The floor at the back was so rotten there wasn't anything left under the channels, and this is also the case down 2/3rds of the curb side, so the measure twice, cut once approach will be carefully applied.

[Dave Park]

Hi all,

This heatwave, on top of a typical Texas summer, has been putting me too far behind. The trailer reaches a balmy 120F+ by 10am and drops below that around 4pm. Well, it's now relocated to the back yard where it gets some shade until 9:30 and from about 4pm onwards. Hopefully this will lengthen my day - although I have already noticed the sun rising 20 minutes later and setting 20 minutes earlier. Not sure if that's a blessing or a curse - less sun is always good, but if it shortens my working day.....

Every extra bit of the frame I uncover looks better - the frame near the axles has no rust and all the original paint in place. I've removed the lower and middle skins and for the main part the insulation is in good shape, except where leaks and critters had their way. A PO replaced some of the rivets with steel rivets.

I did have a small mishap and put my foot through the floor by the door. No injuries.

I also polished a bit of a panel to see how well the pitting would polish out. One unanticipated consequence of this is that I noticed the inside of that panel is now MUCH cooler. I may just take a day to polish the parts of the roof I can easily reach, on the premise that it'll extend my working day. Has anyone else experienced a cooler trailer after polishing?

I know you'd string me up if I didn't post pics, so here are some:

[Sugarfoot]

Originally Posted by soldiermedic

Not exactly.

Dacia's 56 SOTR is a California made trailer. It has a whale tail end cap. Her trailer was also made near the end of the model year, and some of her windows were actually windows from the 57 model. I sincerely hope that I don't have half the problems that she has had with hers.

Steve

After nearly a year off the forums I can't think of a better place to jump back in. A belated public congrats to you and Amy! We have SOTR siblings, brothers of two different motherships, that's way cool. BTW, the one piece streetside drip cap was 57ish. My actual windows are more like the California 55's, old Norwalk factory leftovers more than likely.

"Cha-ching!" I think I heard that before in my thread. And you've been shopping for goodies like a madman. Glad you got some good deals on some great stuff.

Glad to hear the frame is in better shape than mine. Rob's right, don't let fully boxed fool you. Go over all with a fine-tooth comb. They do rot from the inside. Ask me how I know. At least your Ohio '56 wasn't spliced together like my California. The photos show way better factory construction than mine. And apparently, a dead rodent comes with every '56 SOTR, kinda like the prize in the Cracker Jack box.

Dave, you have your work cut out for you. Foot through the floor at the door, ouch! Glad you're OK. I can't say I've noticed the TW any cooler after polishing, but then I've never checked. Now that you have the trailer moved to a better spot, what's next on the agenda? There's no telling what you might uncover.

[scorpiontimo]

Originally Posted by Dave Park

Hi all,

This heatwave, on top of a typical Texas summer, has been putting me too far behind. The trailer reaches a balmy 120F+ by 10am and drops below that around 4pm. Well, it's now relocated to the back yard where it gets some shade until 9:30 and from about 4pm onwards. Hopefully this will lengthen my day - although I have already noticed the sun rising 20 minutes later and setting 20 minutes earlier. Not sure if that's a blessing or a curse - less sun is always good, but if it shortens my working day.....

Every extra bit of the frame I uncover looks better - the frame near the axles has no rust and all the original paint in place. I've removed the lower and middle skins and for the main part the insulation is in good shape, except where leaks and critters had their way. A PO replaced some of the rivets with steel rivets.

I did have a small mishap and put my foot through the floor by the door. No injuries.

I also polished a bit of a panel to see how well the pitting would polish out. One unanticipated consequence of this is that I noticed the inside of that panel is now MUCH cooler. I may just take a day to polish the parts of the roof I can easily reach, on the premise that it'll extend my working day. Has anyone else experienced a cooler trailer after polishing?
Oh ya it does a little bit reason I believe it reflects sun elsewhere well just my opinion what helped was the roof I did with a cool seal reduced by 10 degrees. Looks like a lot of work and fun, the overlander I just completed this week was a walk in the park except working in direct sunlight. Sean

I know you'd string me up if I didn't post pics, so here are some:

pick look like a lot of worked already done

[3Ms75Argosy]

Ouch! I told you to watch your step! Despite the heat, looks like you're making good progress... So the side corrosion is from steel rivets? Interesting! Looks like they leaked too....

What's all the black around the kitchen vent. At first I was thinking of the stuff they used to adhere the insulation, but it also looks like it's on the vent and the inside skin as well. Was that a fire? Also looks like a scorch mark around the lower vent under the fan?

I sure wonder where this trailer went in it's heyday...... Steve, did you investigate the WB # yet?

Marc

[Darkspeed]

When you polish you are wiping out all the pits and valleys in the surface so you are actually reducing the surface area the sun has to impart solar energy

[Dave Park]

Originally Posted by Darkspeed

When you polish you are wiping out all the pits and valleys in the surface so you are actually reducing the surface area the sun has to impart solar energy

That sounds very optimistic. I think these pits and valleys are here for good. I just need to sell Steve on the idea of "character."

Having a crappy day today. Our eldest dog, Rocky, died. Not many 17 year old corgis in the world, and today there's one less.

I am sure Steve won't mind my passing up on the evening cooler period to console the missus.

[wasagachris]

Dave so sorry to hear about your Rocky. My dog (Dalamatian) is also called Rocky. 17 is a good age for any dog, my last Dal lived to 13 and might have lived longer if it wasn't for that poisioned Iams food a few years back.
I'll give my dog a treat tonight to toast the memory of your Rocky.

[Darkspeed]

Dave sorry for your loss.

[Lance M]

Sorry to hear about you dog, Dave.

[pienjim]

So sorry about Rocky. We have a 10-year old lab who is showing her age. I cannot begin to imagine life without her, but I know it will come to that someday. Our fur friends are members of the family and are/will be missed when they are gone.

Paula

[Dave Park]

Trailer measurements for the record:-

Inner width: 6' 10" (at floor)
Outer width (floor): 7' 1/2" or 84 1/2" (edge of outrigger to outrigger)
Full length (hitch to bumper): 29' 11"
Inner length: 26' 0"
Inner height (center): 6' 4 1/4" or 76 1/4"

Rear end-cap length: 3' 11" (interior)
Rear end-cap width: 3' 6" (straight center)
Front end-cap length: 3' (interior)
Front end-cap width: 3' 6" (straight center)
Wheel well length 5' 6"
Wheel well depth: 14"
Wheel well height: 14"
Wheel well offset from back: 9'
Door offset from wheel well: 15"
Door width: 2' 1 3/4" or 25 3/4"

(wheel well measurements are to smaller "inner" wheel well as that affects floor cutting.)

One of the finer jobs yesterday was removing the rivets around the door frame, so the roof liner can come down quickly when it is time. I did a good job of not bending up the door frame, and of protecting the inner sheet - I took an old 1" chisel and gave it a more slight angle, but a more blunt tip - it can slip between the sheets easily, but doesn't blunt too quickly.

Today I drilled some more belly pan rivets until the sun came up, then wire-brushed and degreased the frame ready for painting tomorrow. I good some MEK to the sealant that was daubed over the outer skin and removed it - the skin below was not damaged. There was a bit on the Airstream plate, and when removed, the faded blue was much stronger, so I guess the screen was there a LONG time.

I cut three flooring sheets (3/4" exterior ply) down to the 7' 1/2" width and coated them with a yacht treatment that should be good for another 55 years, and is also low-VOC. I had to do some sanding prep-work but I think it came out really nicely. I cleaned up the rear half of the wheel wells, which lead to...

The builders left a gap of 3" behind the wheel wells to the next outrigger. They covered over this gap with a piece of aluminum to protect the wood floor above. However, the aluminum was in a wet location, and touching the steel outrigger and galvanized steel wheel cover. It's a greenish-white powder now. I will need to replace the metal before proceeding (it's a rock-chip hit area) and I think I will replace it with more galvanized steel, coated in chassis paint then underbody coating.

As for the old belly pan under/over debate, I now firmly understand why Airstream rivets the belly pan over the outer skin now - it's a practical compromise arrived at by the shear PITA-esque drama of trying to remove a belly pan which has blind rivets holding it up. I don't care if there's a slight increase of risk of water getting in there - it gets in there ANYWAY and the sheer amount of hours I have sat there drilling rivets (exterior aviation rivets are a LOT harder and slower to drill carefully than pop rivets inside) obviously wasn't justified at JC. I think that's why they reversed the overlap then extended the rub-rail to cover the entire seam as a good compromise. It is also hard to remove the bolts along the underside edge of the floor with an angle grinder with the belly pan present. With no visible rivets holding it inside, I have stood on the belly pan and it still won't come down.

On a side note, the rub-rail screws have welded themselves in, and I am loath to damage the skin by cutting through them - the usual painter's knife and hammer trick doesn't work, they're too strong. This rub rail is now getting in the way of progress - I can't weld until I remove it.

The belly pan is toast due to salt and I have noticed all the pitting and corrosion is similar, and only in areas sheltered from rain like under windows edges, drip caps etc. I'm sure they'll never completely go, but they can be mostly eliminated. It looks like a PO took it on salted roads, then parked it and let gentle rain clean it.

Also, there are four pieces of steel angle iron that have rusted severely. One is located in each corner where the end cap meets the side wall. Unfortunately, it was steel, so the belly pan is electrolysis-perforated there. The wood is long gone. I can guess it was bolted 2x to the floor but what was the back bolted to? Does anyone have a photo detailing the proper function/installation of this angle piece? I will reproduce it in STRONG angle aluminum alloy.

Finally, a delivery from VTS: bug screen, window handles, window nuts/washers, elevator bolts, trempro 635.

That's today's brief update. Right now I am waiting on a delivery of chassis paint (can't lay any floor until the chassis is painted.)

Tasks coming up over the next week include:

Replacing the rear crossmember, painting chassis, laying rear floor, removing front floor, rinse and repeat, cutting off old receiver/framerot and tank holder, removing the door, removing roof, leak-sealing, wiring, and more.

Hopefully the photos will show something different by next Friday. Stuff starting to go in instead of trashcans and trashcans and trashcans and trashcans of stuff going out.

[bwoodtx]

Dave & Lisa- I am so sorry that you lost one of your babies. I know how hard it hurts to lose one. My thoughts and prayers are with the both of you.