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03-04-2016, 02:12 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master 
1979 31' Sovereign
Northeastern
, Kentucky
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 627
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Airstream utility system accessories?
The heated hose is great, but it won't do much for the spigot or attachment point on your trailer (on mine there is about 8 inches of exposed pipe). A better alternative to the heated hose, although more space is needed for storage, is to purchase heater tape at Lowes http://www.frostking.com/automatic-e...at-cable-kits/ and Valterra's Ebonyline http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003VA...BFL&ref=plSrch in the length you need. Buy the heat tape a little longer so it covers the spigot and attachment point at your trailer. I had bad luck with Amazon sending me the wrong heat tape twice (a version that didn't kick on until 0 degrees) so I ended up purchasing locally at Lowes.
Wrap aluminum foil around the ebonyline and then secure the heater tape by spiraling electrical tape around the hose for the entire length. Follow this with lengths of foam pipe wrap to enclose the entire hose, and tape and wrap the excess heater tape in foam wherever needed.
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03-04-2016, 03:10 PM
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#3
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Wise Elder
2010 30' Classic
Vintage Kin Owner
South of the river
, Minnesota
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zybane
As I wait for my 2016 Classic to be built, I've been searching for the usual accessories to go with the trailer. With the ton of experience here I'd like to know if anyone would swap out any of these components for something else. Long term reliability is my #1 consideration.
1. Sewer hose:
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-39867-Rh...sewer+hose+kit |
I think you would be happier with the Valterra Viper as in my experience it is more durable. Be aware that neither one will fit in the storage tube, you'll have to store them elsewhere.
Probably not necessary except for really long stays at full hookup locations. I use the lynx blocks instead on the rare occasions I need something.
I don't use one. One more thing to fuss with when setting/breaking camp.
I like this one better:
https://www.etrailer.com/Tools/Wheel...rs/WM6700.html
Not that useful, I do have one that came with my garden-hose greywater setup but I hardly ever use it. The elbow that comes with your sewer use is really all you need.
Seems like everyone has an opinion on these. My opinion is that the only thing that works is Aqua Chem, but in most situations it isn't necessary.
I doubt if the steps would close with that in place. I used to have a dog and she never had trouble with the stock steps.
Quote:
8. Electrical protection (or was thinking maybe something mounted permanently inside the trailer in-between the electrical receptacle of the trailer and power distribution box as that would be one less thing to worry about and get stolen):
http://www.amazon.com/Progressive-In...WD3TTBVHPC99J3
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I believe these are a waste of money for reasons I have written about extensively in other threads.
Special purpose product for specific situations, not a general purpose tool. In most cases in freezing weather you're better off filling the tank and stowing the hose when finished.
You need to have something. I like the lynx blocks.
Occasionally useful but not as often as you might think. I carry 5 gallon moller scepter tanks and sometimes bring a battery powered pump if I think access to water will be a problem.
I would recommend that you get a 30a cord instead, and a 30a-to-15a adapter.
http://www.amazon.com/Conntek-14435-...+50+marinco+rv
I have one made from $10 of parts from the hardware store, just a hose bib and the air connector and fittings to join them.
Get the cord instead as noted upthread
Not necessary or even useful with the Airstream hose inlet location. I have one for my truck camper where the water inlet is chest high, and it's great for that.
I use spray foam ("Great stuff")
Not useful, doesn't solve any problem you actually have. Your airstream will have a built-in holding tank flush
Not useful, water pressure is rarely a problem and when it is the campground operator will warn you
I've experimented with additional insulation and have not found it helpful
Quote:
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Is it worth buying caps for your sewer hose? One would think you would want it to air dry open.
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Depends. I typically cap both ends for the hose I have in the bumper drawer, which is the Valterra Viper that I use for full hookups. Helps keep the drawer clean. The one in the storage tube (that I use for ordinary dump stations) doesn't have caps.
Quote:
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Also, is the built in sewage storage in an Airstream basically worthless with all of the elbows and connections found on a sewer hose?
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I find that it is useful to carry several sewer hoses given the wide variety of situations I encounter. For dump stations, the stock hose (or one like it) really does work best, only one fitting on it because anything more gets in the way, basic hose, inexpensive, easy to store, fits in the tube. There is no reason for this hose to be longer than 10'.
For full hookups the hose has a harder life. It will get stepped on and will move around somewhat on an abrasive surface (gravel, sand, tar, concrete), and it has to have the outlet fitting and an elbow. There is no ideal length but I find 15' to be the most useful length. I also carry a longer inexpensive hose that I can either couple to it for more length or use as a backup in case someone runs over it with a golf cart or something. All this goes in the bumper drawer.
I also carry a rubber garden hose with adapters that I use for full hookups for greywater only, because it can be run over by vehicle traffic without being damaged, and isn't as ugly.
Quote:
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Anything else to add to the list?
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Depends where you're camping.
I find that an additional 25' extension cord (30a) is useful once in about 10 trips. I also carry a 100' 20a extension cord which is useful if you're staying in someone's driveway or another improvised spot. I carry a spare 30a fuse (a few campsite pedestals still use them), and a three-light outlet checker.
You don't mention fresh water hoses. Your trailer should come with a 25', I carry a 25' and a 50'.
I carry a "power squid" adapter for sharing power at ersatz and unimproved sites, and a garden hose Y adapter. I only have used them once in a while but it's great to be a good neighbor in the rare situation where it's necessary.
__________________
To learn to see below the surface, you must adjust your altitude
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03-04-2016, 03:21 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
2012 25' Flying Cloud
Battle Lake
, Minnesota
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 7,714
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Your dealer should provide the basic accessories to get started. Use them first, take some time to see what you really need and suits you. The greatest problem with RV'ing is too much gear rather than not enough.
I'll bet most of us have a box or two of accessories in the garage we thought we needed but didn't. Many have traded trailers and /or trucks to carry the increasing volume of stuff.
Your goal should be to keep it simple and light.
__________________
Doug and Cheryl
2012 FC RB, Michelin 16, ProPride 1400
2016 Ram 1500 Laramie Crew Cab 4X4 Ecodiesel 3.92 axles
The Truth is More Important Than the Facts
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03-04-2016, 03:22 PM
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#5
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Wise Elder
2010 30' Classic
Vintage Kin Owner
South of the river
, Minnesota
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,169
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There are lots of lists around and all kinds of goofy things people bring along. The other critical items for you to think about are:
- A wrench that is capable of removing the lug nuts on the wheels
- A jack capable of lifting the trailer
- Some sort of additional pad to place under the stabilizers to keep them from sinking into the ground. I use pieces of scrap plywood, but there is a product called "elephant feet" you might like
- camp chairs of some kind, the zip dee chairs are ideal inside the trailer but only ok for outdoor use
- Some sort of mat or rug both inside and outside the door. Usually the dealer will give you an Airstream doormat, but I find it's best to have two.
Most people have some sort of bbq grill that they bring. Mine is gas and connects to the trailer's propane system.
I would suggest upgrading the fire extinguisher. Amerex makes a nice chrome one that looks a lot more at home in the Airstream than the painted red one. I use a 5 pounder, which in my case involved relocating the magazine rack slightly, not sure how the newer ones fit. You want an extinguisher with a vehicle bracket:
https://fireextinguisherdepot.com/fi...inguisher.html
__________________
To learn to see below the surface, you must adjust your altitude
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03-04-2016, 03:24 PM
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#6
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Wise Elder
2010 30' Classic
Vintage Kin Owner
South of the river
, Minnesota
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,169
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For interior stuff, the major item is bed linens, which aren't included. AB Lifestyles makes the best ones for Airstreams. Everyone outfits the galley a little differently, I use corelle plates and glass glassware that I keep in the dinette drawer in a box with cardboard dividers.
Have fun
__________________
To learn to see below the surface, you must adjust your altitude
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03-04-2016, 07:15 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
2016 30' Classic
Lorton
, Virginia
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 689
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Great stuff guys!
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03-05-2016, 10:30 AM
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#8
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Stay CazuaL
2018 25' Flying Cloud
2014 19' Flying Cloud
Reseda
, California
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 961
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I created a list as well over a years worth of "oh crap I need that" see it here to add to your list
http://www.airforums.com/forums/show...ferrerid=90554
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03-05-2016, 11:28 AM
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#9
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Proud Owner Vintage SBB
Currently Looking...
Santa Monica
, California
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zybane
8.... was thinking maybe something mounted permanently inside the trailer in-between the electrical receptacle of the trailer and power distribution box as that would be one less thing to worry about and get stolen ...
16. Copper mesh rodent protection for all the cracks:
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In more than forty years of trailering adventures around North America, I have never had anything stolen from my trailer, either on the road, camped, or parked at home. What is this regularly voiced concern with theft (and, I might add, defending oneself with firearms?)
Aluminum will be very susceptible to galvanic corrosion in contact with copper, which argues against cramming copper mesh in "all the cracks."
Best,
Michael
__________________
"Of the gladdest moments in human life, methinks, is the departure upon a distant journey into unknown lands... A journey, in fact, appeals to Imagination, to Memory, to Hope,—the three sister Graces of our moral being.’
– Sir Richard Francis Burton
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03-05-2016, 01:13 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
2016 30' Classic
Lorton
, Virginia
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 689
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cazual6
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Nice, I will pick up a few of those items.
Quote:
Originally Posted by '55 Airlight
In more than forty years of trailering adventures around North America, I have never had anything stolen from my trailer, either on the road, camped, or parked at home. What is this regularly voiced concern with theft (and, I might add, defending oneself with firearms?)
Aluminum will be very susceptible to galvanic corrosion in contact with copper, which argues against cramming copper mesh in "all the cracks."
Best,
Michael
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Mike, I hear where you are coming from but that is anecdotal. I have a "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" mentality.
Good thoughts about the copper. I will switch it to stainless steel mesh. I've heard reports of rodents still chewing through the spray in foam. Maybe I will use both.
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03-05-2016, 02:14 PM
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#11
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2 Rivet Member 
2016 27' Flying Cloud
Reno
, Nevada
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 32
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I find two 10' water hoses much easier to handle and store than the 25'. Also check out you converter/charger. If is the standard one stage and not a three stage charger/converter replace it immediately! Its not worth #!@. It will kill your batteries! We have a new 2016 Flying cloud which is not even 5 months old and the batteries are already shot due to using the supplied one stage converter/charger.
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03-05-2016, 04:27 PM
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#12
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Rivet Master
2016 30' Classic
Lorton
, Virginia
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 689
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Also thinking about upgrading the inverter to a 3000w unit:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=sr_1_2&sr=8-2
In preparation for a possible ~1000 AH lithium bank+solar install.
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03-05-2016, 04:54 PM
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#13
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4 Rivet Member 
2015 30' Classic
Sherwood
, Oregon
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 479
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Quote:
7. Step pads for dog (would this work on AS Classic steps and if so [will the steps close?], and which width):
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-42925-Wr...WD3TTBVHPC99J3
The step covers fit nicely and do not hinder closing.
Congratulations on your new AS, enjoy!
__________________
2015 Classic 30A, Blue OX Sway Pro, 2016 F350 4x4 Ultimate Lariat crew cab SRW, LWB, 6.7 PSD, 20" wheels, Ingot Silver Metallic, DiamondBack tonneau cover, TrailFX wheel-to-wheel step bars.
Sold: 2014 25FB International Serenity
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03-05-2016, 09:32 PM
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#14
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Rivet Master
2014 23' Flying Cloud
Fair Oaks
, California
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 717
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Speaking for myself, and I hear some others echoing this too, a lot of the stuff I bought in advance of using the trailer turned out to be not what I would have chosen if I had waited, and in some cases not things I would have bought at all. So to the extent you can put off some of these purchases until you have some experience with the trailer, you may be better off. The dealer threw in a starter kit containing some hoses, etc., most of which I still use. The sewer hose they threw in works fine, and stores fine in the built in sewer hose storage tube. I just disconnect the right-angle fitting and store it separately in the rear bumper storage compartment, with some other stuff that can get and stay dirty.
I don't know if you mentioned it, but a locking trailer hitch pin is a good idea, as trailer hitches have been known to disappear. I remember after my first trip in the AS, I was so relieved to have arrived in one piece and to park it without any dents or scratches that I went to the beach to celebrate with my dog. When I came back, my truck was all alone in the parking lot with the hitch silhouetted against the setting sun, and it struck me what a hassle it would be in that remote spot if it had disappeared.
Sent from my iPad using Airstream Forums
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03-05-2016, 11:04 PM
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#15
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4 Rivet Member
2015 30' Classic
Sherwood
, Oregon
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 479
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I aso got in the habit of locking the stinger in the receiver with my boat trailer so carry it over to the WD hitch stinger for the AS. A lot of theft crime is that of opportunity.
__________________
2015 Classic 30A, Blue OX Sway Pro, 2016 F350 4x4 Ultimate Lariat crew cab SRW, LWB, 6.7 PSD, 20" wheels, Ingot Silver Metallic, DiamondBack tonneau cover, TrailFX wheel-to-wheel step bars.
Sold: 2014 25FB International Serenity
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03-06-2016, 07:48 AM
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#16
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Rivet Master
2015 25' Flying Cloud
2016 30' Flying Cloud
Blenheim Ontario
, Ontario
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 1,263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zybane
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Without going through the whole listing yet, your last question about sewage storage hit a nerve with me.
My 2015 25' FC had a very small stowage tube for a sewer pipe, and I asked CanAm to install a second longer tube to stow my sewer hoses from the Hi-Lo that I traded in. I had about 15' of hose, and the OEM tube was only for an 8' hose. They only charged me a small fee to do this. No, I don't use caps.. 
-OK, now having gone through the list, here's my recomendations:
#s 1, 2, and three: Yes, get them!
#4; sure, why not/
#5; yes, ocassionally you may need it.
#6; there are many tank treatments out there, Use locally purchased stuff.
#7; I don't have a dog.
#8; I didn't go that route, but one time my 'surge guard' died protecting my Hi-Lo in a thunder storm. cost $165 for a new one; cheap insurance.
#9; are you winter camping? If not, forget it.
#10; Good stuff, but 'Yikes" expensive.
#11; never needed a water bandit yet.
#12; Is your Classic a 50 Amp job? If so, get it. Just don't use the second A.C.
#13; winterizer? Make your own. I did. cost $1.50
#14; see #12
#15; If you're using the Camco water filter, not required; although I do use a 45 deg. elbow.
#16; HUH?? what the hell is that????
#17; Make your own. Mine cost me about $2.00
#18; I've never used one for mine; just use the dump stn. hose.
#19; I don't see the need. Valterra makes a very good water regulator that is set at about 55 psi. The Airstream internal regulator is set at 65 psi.
#20; If winter camping, why not.
And as Forest Gump said: "And that's all that I have to say about that".
Good luck. 
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03-06-2016, 10:08 AM
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#17
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Rivet Master
2016 30' Classic
Lorton
, Virginia
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 689
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Thanks. Ya, my job will require me to camp in below freezing temps as I will be full timing.
#16 is wire mesh that rodents can't chew through.  Although, I purchased stainless steel instead of copper to make sure there isn't any galvanic corrosion problems.
Has anyone "sealed" the belly of their Airstream? Thinking once I put all the stainless mesh in the gaps of using elastic roof sealants on all the panel overlaps and creases on the belly.
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03-06-2016, 08:48 PM
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#18
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Wise Elder
2010 30' Classic
Vintage Kin Owner
South of the river
, Minnesota
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,169
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In practice I don't find that it's possible to seal the belly completely. Mice will get through a remarkably small crack. I have sealed up a number of floor penetrations below the dinette which has helped a little with air infiltration and probably contributed to good luck keeping the mice out.
Stainless steel in contact with aluminum will still cause galvanic corrosion
__________________
To learn to see below the surface, you must adjust your altitude
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03-06-2016, 11:23 PM
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#20
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4 Rivet Member
2015 30' Classic
Sherwood
, Oregon
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 479
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If you are going to use a metal mesh it would be better to use a zinc mesh so that it becomes the sacrificial anode to the aluminum if there is any cathodic corrosion.
Steve
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Airstream utility system accessories?
Linear Mode
