ProPride for smaller Airstreams

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Tom_T

I have the Hensley Cub on our 1960 Avion T20 which is great - no matter how many times a year for how long or how far we go.



If your trailer is under 6000 lbs & 600 lbs HW, then the Cub is significantly less money than the Hensley Arrow or PP - but with all of the same benefits & features, along with a somewhat lighter hitch-head unit & tow bars/stingers.



I'd suggest paying the bit more for the crank up jacks to adjust the torsion bars, unless you like punishing yourself lifting chains & figuring half-links, etc.



Cheers!

Tom

///////

Yes, do opt for the Jacks. My brother in law didn't, and it was regretted.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Airstream Forums mobile app

[switz]

Our 2015 23D International Serenity scales 6,069 with a tongue weight of just over 900 pounds camping ready. It has new 3,600 pound rated axles with 3" lift and 12" disc brakes.

So we were looking for a smaller tow vehicle than the 2012 Ram Cummins we use to tow the 31' Classic. After the 2007 Mercedes ML320 CDI turbo diesel was "retired", we chose a 2021 Land Cruiser for the tow vehicle. Works well with our trailer numbers and is comfortable hitched or unhitched. At age 77, this may be the last tow vehicle decision I have to make for the 23D.

We have two PPP stingers, one for the Land Cruiser and one for the Ram because there is 5" difference in receiver opening elevations.

[BHChieftain]

I would first try a simple (and low maintenance) WD hitch with your combo and try that for awhile. If you think you need more stability you can always upgrade later. FYI I use a ram 2500 with a 25’ FB with an equalizer hitch and that combo is rock solid.

[doctorlewis]

I would go with the PP hitch. At a later time you may want to get a longer Airstream and you can use the hitch again. I do not believe in "overkill". You can never have to much safety and security.

[hikingcamera]

Originally Posted by doctorlewis

I would go with the PP hitch. At a later time you may want to get a longer Airstream and you can use the hitch again. I do not believe in "overkill". You can never have to much safety and security.

We might upgrade to a smaller trailer someday.

[Rrauch]

We had a similar set up with a RAM 1500 and 23’ Globetrotter. The ProPride was great. Definitely NOT overkill, in my opinion.

[patandcole]

Originally Posted by Dennis C

I’ve considered a Hensley or ProPride hitch for my 23FB. I haven’t purchased one because my Blue Ox Sway Pro works so well. It’s hard to justify the expense of a ProPride hitch. If I had a larger trailer, then I would definitely buy one.

My wife and I have run a Blue Ox Sway Pro on our 2020 GT23FB and a Black Label Lincoln Aviator for over 10k miles with no issues whatsoever. I've never run a ProPride, so have no basis for comparison, but can honestly say I have no concerns with the Blue Ox and overall set up we've been running for over two years now.

[Boxite]

I will shock and dismay all the equalizer/PP/BlueOx/WDH people with this…but for a smaller trailer…I don’t believe all those hitches are necessary at all and complicate matters in some important ways. (In fact, I’ve got an ordinary WD hitch w/1000 lb bars in my garage I wish someone would pilfer.)

I tow my properly loaded 22’ Safari with an ordinary ball-hitch and a friction anti-sway bar and have had Zero problems now for a decade. A plain ball hitch will allow the TV and trailer to flex over dips and rises with good ride instead of punishing both suspensions, and makes hitching up a simple matter. Easy Peasy and no stresses/no surprises, no groaning, no creaking, no backing-up issues, just a nice clean pulling experience.

[hikingcamera]

Originally Posted by Boxite

I will shock and dismay all the equalizer/PP/BlueOx/WDH people with this…but for a smaller trailer…I don’t believe all those hitches are necessary at all and complicate matters in some important ways. (In fact, I’ve got an ordinary WD hitch w/1000 lb bars in my garage I wish someone would pilfer.)

I tow my properly loaded 22’ Safari with an ordinary ball-hitch and a friction anti-sway bar and have had Zero problems now for a decade. A plain ball hitch will allow the TV and trailer to flex over dips and rises with good ride instead of punishing both suspensions, and makes hitching up a simple matter. Easy Peasy and no stresses/no surprises, no groaning, no creaking, no backing-up issues, just a nice clean pulling experience.

To be clear the smaller trailer I am referring to in this post is a 23-foot Flying Cloud (probably will be close to 6000-lbs, 700–800-lb tongue). Our F-150 hitch is limited to 500-lb tongue and 5000-lb tow without a WDH, so in my situation, at least, I'm required to used a WDH to meet specs.

I'll also add that my Blue Ox is easier to hitch up than the ball hitch and anti-sway bar we had in our first TV/trailer setup with the friction anti-sway bar (getting those pins in and out was a pain, and having to loosen and tighten it to the right tightness was an extra step that we don't need to do now), and allows for backing which the old friction bar did not (we broke our first bar before learning that lesson), and makes far less noise than the old friction bar did.

[Silvr_Bullet]

Originally Posted by hikingcamera

To be clear the smaller trailer I am referring to in this post is a 23-foot Flying Cloud (probably will be close to 6000-lbs, 700–800-lb tongue). Our F-150 hitch is limited to 500-lb tongue and 5000-lb tow without a WDH, so in my situation, at least, I'm required to used a WDH to meet specs.



I'll also add that my Blue Ox is easier to hitch up than the ball hitch and anti-sway bar we had in our first TV/trailer setup with the friction anti-sway bar (getting those pins in and out was a pain, and having to loosen and tighten it to the right tightness was an extra step that we don't need to do now), and allows for backing which the old friction bar did not (we broke our first bar before learning that lesson), and makes far less noise than the old friction bar did.

Are you sure of those numbers for towing and tongue weight, sounds very light.

[hikingcamera]

Originally Posted by Silvr_Bullet

Are you sure of those numbers for towing and tongue weight, sounds very light.

Absolutely. It's in the Ford Towing Guide (page 41) as well as stamped on my Class IV hitch. I also think it's in the manual, but I'm not certain of that.

[Silvr_Bullet]

Originally Posted by hikingcamera

Absolutely. It's in the Ford Towing Guide (page 41) as well as stamped on my Class IV hitch. I also think it's in the manual, but I'm not certain of that.

I think the numbers you are referring to are weight carrying on the rear step, no?

[hikingcamera]

Originally Posted by Silvr_Bullet

I think the numbers you are referring to are weight carrying on the rear step, no?

That sticker is on the Class IV hitch, not the bumper. These additional attached images from the tow guide might also add some insight into how Ford is languaging that. From what I understand, this is fairly common of half ton trucks.

[Silvr_Bullet]

I wouldn’t argue with you, it’s your truck and interpretation. Just because the label is on the hitch and not somewhere else, in my mind doesn’t mean a whole lot, I think that’s a good place for visibility purposes. Let’s see if some Ford people chime in.

[DogMomDeb]

Originally Posted by hikingcamera

To be clear the smaller trailer I am referring to in this post is a 23-foot Flying Cloud (probably will be close to 6000-lbs, 700–800-lb tongue). Our F-150 hitch is limited to 500-lb tongue and 5000-lb tow without a WDH, so in my situation, at least, I'm required to used a WDH to meet specs.

Yep. In the Ford towing guide using a WDH takes the weight carrying capacity from 5000 lb to 14,000 and the tongue weight from 500 lb to 4,000 on an F150. The towing guide really helped when we were configuring our F150.

[pteck]

I see no particular reason for a PPP style hitch with a smaller trailer that is easily towed by the proposed TV. IMO, it's more useful when towing on the upper end of the stated capacities for a marginal tow vehicle.

With compromise not just with cost, but with added hitching complexity when off camber. What it does for sway control is great. But it also is a compromise to porpoising as the geometry is not corrected and made worse in such a configuration.

IMO, a number of users tend to use PPPs as a bandaid. Either because they cannot figure out what they've done wrong with a setup, and are compensating with a PPP. Or they are practicing bad habbits and again, need to resort to a PPP.

[hikingcamera]

Originally Posted by pteck

I see no particular reason for a PPP style hitch with a smaller trailer that is easily towed by the proposed TV. IMO, it's more useful when towing on the upper end of the stated capacities for a marginal tow vehicle.

Just to be clear, you're saying this about the F-150 with 1808 payload and the FC23CBB? I'm not sure how the upper end of capacities and marginal tow vehicle are defined, but I'm estimating being within 200–300 lbs (95–98%) of my GVWR on the truck (and probably even closer on the GVWR of the trailer), with a family of four and all our stuff. But only a bit more than half the tow capacity of the truck.

At this point I certainly think I want to see how things go with the BlueOx SwayPro I already have first before considering any changes. And of course, weights on paper are one thing, but we'll see how things shake out when I get everything loaded and on a CAT scale. I hope I've done a good job of being conservative with my estimates and will see lower numbers than I'm estimating.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by pteck

I see no particular reason for a PPP style hitch with a smaller trailer that is easily towed by the proposed TV. IMO, it's more useful when towing on the upper end of the stated capacities for a marginal tow vehicle.

With compromise not just with cost, but with added hitching complexity when off camber. What it does for sway control is great. But it also is a compromise to porpoising as the geometry is not corrected and made worse in such a configuration.

IMO, a number of users tend to use PPPs as a bandaid. Either because they cannot figure out what they've done wrong with a setup, and are compensating with a PPP. Or they are practicing bad habbits and again, need to resort to a PPP.

Huh??????? I don't think so.

[Foiled Again]

Originally Posted by hikingcamera

Hi all,



I asked this question within another thread and already got a reply from someone with a ProPride on their 22-footer, but thought I'd throw it out here for a larger response.



Do folks out there have/recommend the ProPride for smaller rigs?



My setup is going to be:

• 2021 Ford F-150, 3.5 Ecoboost, crew cab, short bed, normal tow package (7050 GVWR, 1808 payload, probably will be within a few hundred pounds of that with a family of 4 and all our gear)
  
• 2022 Airstream Flying Cloud 23 Corner Bunk Bed (formerly called the 23D)
  

Is the ProPride overkill for our setup, or will it be worth the extra safety it provides? Spending money on prevent an accident to me is even more valuable than the insurance I carry.

I drove past a 15 ft CASITA that had a little Propride just a few days ago. Nearly dampened a diaper laughing BUT then... the reflexes slow down and the bone density isn't what it was when we were 20.... so erring on the side of caution is what makes an "active retirement" possible and enjoyable.

[WhereStream]

As regards the original question, is there a ProPride for smaller trailers, ala the Hensley Cub, I was under the impression that ProPride had such a hitch under development (or, at least, under consideration).