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Old 12-30-2017, 02:39 PM   #21
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1965 24' Tradewind
almena , Wisconsin
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Torque!

Find a small trucking company that has their own shop onsite. Have the hitch assembled and ready to tighten. Talk to one of the mechanics and offer to buy him lunch!!! It will take less than 5 minutes. Motor On!!!
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Old 12-30-2017, 03:12 PM   #22
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1985 31' Excella
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Come on... its not rocket science folks... if you own a torque wrench... do like the other suggested and use a extension between it and the socket...

https://www.norbar.com/en-gb/Home/To...ion-Calculator

Now if your part of the old crew... we know how to tighten up the nut and ball... by using a good old crows foot or in a pinch the water pipe wrench and a piece of pipe about 4 ft long... however, to day we have to be politcally correct... so you must use a socket... or better yet... crows foot... better known as the super large cresent wrench... (I welded a big old socket into the hole end of the cresent wrench... so I can put my torque wrench at the end... and its alreay calculed out for the torque multpul) ... and a piece of pipe... of course you also need to keep the ball from trun'ing so they put little flats on them to again put the other cresent wrench on it too... I don't recommend that you use the pipe wrench on the ball area as it puts cuts into the metal.. and we wouldn't want to induce any stress risers in that area...

Also make sure you check out the load carry of the ball.. we have seen a lot of them rated for 6000 lbs... even though they are the 2-1/4... so you want at least the 10 -12,000 lb ball.. such as reese makes... don't waits your money on SS balls.. they are soft... and don't have the same ability as steel does...

I took mine to the truck stop and found some guy changing tires on a big rig... asked nicely...if he could hit the nut with about 450 ft lbs.. after I put the shank in sideways so that it was easier to get to... matter of seconds... and he glad'ly abliged... Checked with the torque wrench... done... I went around and got a 6 pax of brewskies.. and handed it to him.. he nodded and said thanks... and off we went...

When I got home I checked out the tighten tork with my 250 ft lb tork wrench with the extension on it and the crows foot... at what calc'ed out to be 450... good enough no movement... but, thats not to say I don't check it every so often... just to be sure it is not losing up... none never have so far...

So if your going to be a DIY'er... use what you have... or seek out some rental yard... that will rent you the socket for a hour or so... as they also have the big torque wrenches... and that will only cost you a couple of bux or so... etrailer also has parts... but once yours.. you can let others in the group know you have it.. and recover the usage fee... grin... nothing about AS people being helpful... if not cheap.. grin...

As to libility... its all yours... time to take responsibility for your own rig... as the one that loses is you if something doesn't work right .. even if you paid someone to do it...
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Old 12-30-2017, 03:21 PM   #23
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Googled Etrailer web site, only 2 tools listed, 1 was box end wrench other not socket, no sockets listed on there site.
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Old 12-30-2017, 03:37 PM   #24
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Ok... so your not good at math... no problem... here is what I use and the values I get...

I use a 18 inch large cresent... 1.5 ft long
I use a 18 inch 250 ft lb torque wrench
and.. I use another cresent to hold the top of the ball base.

the formula is TA x L / L + A

TA= Torque applied at end of adapter (cresent wrench to nut) in this case we want 450 Ft Lbs
L= Length of torque Wrench from sq center to center of hand handle (in my case its 18 inches ) i.e 1.5 ft
A= Length of Adapter (in this case my 18 inch cresent wrench) i.e 1.5 ft.

Turn the crank and the reading on the torque wrench then is 225 Ft Lbs when the nut is being torqued to 450 Ft lbs...

I made up a little chart using the computer on excel... and taped it to the box... so that I can see what torque I should be reading for a various required ones... keeping the same extension 18 inch cresent wrench and vari the applied required torque.

Of course those of you who are good at math.. engineering... could work the forumla backwards so that you can set the torque wrench to indicate when you get to design torque at the nut. easy piezie... have fun... (see now arn't you glad you didn't sleep in math class... thank your math teacher for all them years of learn'ed ya...)
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Old 12-30-2017, 04:31 PM   #25
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True that. Except I’m the engineer, daughter, the biology major is better at math and physics than I am...🤢
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Old 12-30-2017, 04:43 PM   #26
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Just to distill all the above, here's how I do it:

1. You don't need a torque wrench.
2. You DO need a large adjustable wrench (Source: Harbor Freight, about $20) and a three foot pipe.
3. Divide your weight, fully dressed ready to torque the nut, into 450. The answer tells you how many feet from the shank of the ball to stand.
4. Turn the shank 90 degrees to the right. Attach adjustable wrench to ball nut and slide pipe over end of wrench.
5. Stand on the pipe at the appropriate distance on the pipe. Use a step ladder next to you to brace yourself (or your wife).

Here are my measurements: 170 lbs divided into 450 (ft lbs) equals 2.6 feet. Stand at the 2.6 foot mark on the 3' pipe. For accuracy, the pipe must be horizontal to the floor, so if it tightens, say, 1/4 turn, reset the adjustable wrench on a different flat of the ball nut so the pipe is about level.

Easy peasy...
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Old 12-30-2017, 05:50 PM   #27
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Somewhere on this Forum a guy said “what we duse down south is get it good and tight ,just don’t break it”. I have been using the pipe and wrench method for 50 years. I’ve never had one come loose yet.
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Old 12-30-2017, 08:36 PM   #28
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A good 3/4 drive air wrench and a regular socket will be real close...
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Old 12-30-2017, 08:46 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GM Airstream View Post
Ok... so your not good at math... no problem... here is what I use and the values I get...

I use a 18 inch large crescent... 1.5 ft long
I use a 18 inch 250 ft lb torque wrench
and.. I use another crescent to hold the top of the ball base.

the formula is TA x L / L + A

TA= Torque applied at end of adapter (crescent wrench to nut) in this case we want 450 Ft Lbs
L= Length of torque Wrench from sq center to center of hand handle (in my case its 18 inches ) i.e 1.5 ft
A= Length of Adapter (in this case my 18 inch crescent wrench) i.e 1.5 ft.
Actually, the correct notation for the formula is: TA * L /( L + A). Division takes precedence over addition in a mathematical equation when a mathematical expression is preceded by one binary operator and followed by another. Parenthesis is used to eliminate ambiguity. Here we want to force the addition of the nominal length and the extension length before division takes place. Shout out to Mr. Roesch, my algebra teacher.


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Old 12-30-2017, 10:55 PM   #30
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Good ol “My Dear Aunt Sally”. Thank you Mr Spicer.
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Old 12-31-2017, 06:08 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GM Airstream View Post
Ok... so your not good at math... no problem... here is what I use and the values I get...

I use a 18 inch large cresent... 1.5 ft long
I use a 18 inch 250 ft lb torque wrench
and.. I use another cresent to hold the top of the ball base.

the formula is TA x L / L + A

TA= Torque applied at end of adapter (cresent wrench to nut) in this case we want 450 Ft Lbs
L= Length of torque Wrench from sq center to center of hand handle (in my case its 18 inches ) i.e 1.5 ft
A= Length of Adapter (in this case my 18 inch cresent wrench) i.e 1.5 ft.

Turn the crank and the reading on the torque wrench then is 225 Ft Lbs when the nut is being torqued to 450 Ft lbs...

I made up a little chart using the computer on excel... and taped it to the box... so that I can see what torque I should be reading for a various required ones... keeping the same extension 18 inch cresent wrench and vari the applied required torque.

Of course those of you who are good at math.. engineering... could work the forumla backwards so that you can set the torque wrench to indicate when you get to design torque at the nut. easy piezie... have fun... (see now arn't you glad you didn't sleep in math class... thank your math teacher for all them years of learn'ed ya...)
Okay, I'm trying to picture this. You are using a plain crescent wrench with your torque wrench? How do you connect those two?
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Old 12-31-2017, 06:21 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billrector View Post
Okay, I'm trying to picture this. You are using a plain crescent wrench with your torque wrench? How do you connect those two?
What he said, needs a pic.

I bought a 3/4" X 40" drive breaker bar and use the weight at a measured distance approach.

And my hitch is an Equal i zer and I solved the standard socket doesn't fit issue by grinding a little taper on the front end of the socket with my bench grinder.

I've replaced and tightened quite a few hitch balls for fellow AS'ers.

Best is to be concerned, check and correctly tightened.
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Old 12-31-2017, 06:31 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmkrum View Post
Good ol “My Dear Aunt Sally”. Thank you Mr Spicer.
People use the acronym "please excuse my dear Aunt Sally" to remember mathematical order of operation. (parentheses, exponent, multiply, divide, add, subtract)
My wife is a retired teacher who taught this to her 5th grade students.(and me)

Quote:
Originally Posted by GM Airstream View Post
<<snip>>

the formula is TA x L / L + A

TA= Torque applied at end of adapter (cresent wrench to nut) in this case we want 450 Ft Lbs
L= Length of torque Wrench from sq center to center of hand handle (in my case its 18 inches ) i.e 1.5 ft
A= Length of Adapter (in this case my 18 inch cresent wrench) i.e 1.5 ft.

<<snip>>
T = R x F is the simplest formula.
T(torque) = R(radius, or length of lever, in feet) x F(force, in pounds)
Why make it more complicated than it really is? What am I missing?
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Old 12-31-2017, 06:49 AM   #34
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Actually, the correct notation for the formula is: TA * L /( L + A). Division takes precedence over addition in a mathematical equation when a mathematical expression is preceded by one binary operator and followed by another. Parenthesis is used to eliminate ambiguity. Here we want to force the addition of the nominal length and the extension length before division takes place. Shout out to Mr. Roesch, my algebra teacher.


Greg
A man after my own heart! I had to exert extreme self control not to do the same thing!
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Old 12-31-2017, 06:58 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by blkmagikca View Post
Any truck shop should have a 3/4" torque wrench that goes to 600 ft-lbs, as they need it to torque wheel lug nuts.
Yes
I went to my garage to have the ball and hitch head torqued to spec.

I have also been referred to an RV sales outlet where they tightened my hicth head and ball that shook loose on the interstate because I ddin't tighten them enough back home....No charge by the way!
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Old 12-31-2017, 08:47 AM   #36
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Best thread today

For me, this thread is the best read (humor) of the day. Looks to be farmers and school teachers discussing install of "THE BALL".

Safe Travels
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Old 12-31-2017, 08:58 AM   #37
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For me, this thread is the best read (humor) of the day. Looks to be farmers and school teachers discussing install of "THE BALL".

Safe Travels
So do you want the manicured hands or knarly knuckled hands doing this job?

Or one of the IMHO the rarer hands that can do the job and not get busted up?

I hate the results of slipped wrenches damaged parts and ouchies!
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Old 12-31-2017, 09:07 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GM Airstream View Post
I use a 18 inch large cresent... 1.5 ft long
For the folks with an Equal-I-Zer brand hitch, the nut is recessed in the head, thus the need for a thin wall socket. If you read the reviews on Amazon, the $18 one they sell is used by folks for exactly that application, so I'd get that one.

I also like the idea of a six pack and a truck facility. win-win, everyone is happy. The way things used to be done.

Or:
"Tighten it up until it strips, then back it off half a turn."
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Old 12-31-2017, 10:50 AM   #39
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a little music to go along with the work ;-)

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Old 01-18-2018, 12:02 AM   #40
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I had the same problem and found the last thin wall 1-7/8” socket at Lowe’s department store. I asked a friend to torque it and he took a long handle drive and tightened the hell out of that 2” screw under the ball mount. It worked. No 320 pound torque wrench needed.
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