Visit our Popular Forums

TDG · 12-22-2014, 12:16 PM

Hi folks. I know this information is here somewhere, but i haven't found it yet.

This summer i drug a 1975 31' Sovereign out of the bush for a song. For the price i paid and the condition it was in, the capability of my tow vehicle wasn't even on my radar. I simply couldn't walk away from the deal.

That said, I have a 2010 F150 FX4 SCREW (i think it's 157" wb) with the 5.4L and the maxtow package. I know that on paper, the truck can pull the airstream fine. But i wonder if it SHOULD pull it. My concern is, i live in Northern BC, mountainous terrain, steep hills, tight turns, no big freeways or flat roads to speak of...so this truck is going to be breathing heavy.

The Airstream weighs in at 7700lbs dry, so i know power will be an issue. But more importantly for me, is going down the backside of those mountain passes when i have to brake and maneuver this trailer. That's a lot of weight to control with a half ton, is it not?

Am i overthinking it, to trade up to an F250/350 diesel? Do i need all that extra? I get that the diesel and the extra size on the superduties will help, but am i worrying about nothing? I should add that i only pulled it out the trees 5 miles from my house, so I haven't experienced what it's like going down the road...that said, it sits nice on the truck.

My only comparrisson is that I currently pull a Near mint 1973 Vanguard, which is only 20' long and half the weight, so i've never really worried about pulling or braking it.

Any help would be appreciated

TDG · 12-22-2014, 12:22 PM

I should add that i'm wondering what i could do to this truck to seriously upgrade the braking. What should i do to this truck to ensure it's the safest f150 i can make it...if i don't jump into 1 ton territory.

slowmover · 12-22-2014, 12:43 PM

I'd imagine the weight of the trailer is less than that. Loaded for camping it might get on up a ways. Weigh it with full propane and fresh wAter. Add 500# to that for camping

At still under 8 k your truck will be alright. Brakes on the trailer is what to focus upon. May also need new axles so combine purchase. Direclink brake controller and best hitch. 16" wheels and Load Range E tires

Farmer Dan · 12-22-2014, 01:35 PM

TDG,
I have the same truck. '10 F150, SCREW, maxtow, 157" WB, 6.5' box, 5.4 eng, 6 spd. The rating on this truck is 11,300 towing capacity. My '02 30' Classic w / slide weighs about 8,400 empty and near 9,000 with water, propane, etc. Hitch wt is 840. I use an Equalizer 10,000 / 1,000 hitch. We have towed from SW Iowa to Glacier Park, Yellowstone Park and, even went to Newfoundland with this rig. We also tow to SW Florida every winter. The truck handles the load fine. In tow/haul mode the tranny will downshift with brake application and will do a good job on the downhills. As mentioned, trailer brakes need to be in good condition. After our first big trip, which was to Newfoundland, I upgraded the inadequate P rated truck tires to Michelin LR E.
This truck has performed very well for me. I would expect yours to be similar. You will be working the truck a little on the inclines but I think you will have plenty of power -unless you have to be the first to the top of the mountain!

Dan

reelfastgreg · 12-22-2014, 02:11 PM

what tires are on your truck? P or LT

are the trailer brakes in good working order? our truck should have disc front and rear so no issues that way.

equalizer hitch is a must to get weight 1/3, 1/3, 1/3

does you truck have a built in brake controller? learn how to use is so the trailer brakes come on a snitch before your truck brakes.

save, more than likely rotten mileage, the flat landers don't understand the real west, you should be just fine if all of the above are working correctly.

TDG · 12-22-2014, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gpt

what tires are on your truck? P or LT

are the trailer brakes in good working order? our truck should have disc front and rear so no issues that way.

equalizer hitch is a must to get weight 1/3, 1/3, 1/3

does you truck have a built in brake controller? learn how to use is so the trailer brakes come on a snitch before your truck brakes.

save, more than likely rotten mileage, the flat landers don't understand the real west, you should be just fine if all of the above are working correctly.

Great to get some insight from the mountainous west...much appreciated. I'm running LT tires on the truck (goodyear Duratrac's), and i know they won't be up to the task. As for the trailer, she will go in for a full redo of the brakes. I don't want to be worried about that big bugger while snaking through Seattle on our next trip to Fort Flagler. Yes, i do have the built in brake controller...it's always been find with my last trailer, but as mentioned, this AS is more than double what the Vanguard is.

I should note that i am a novice trailer puller. I was just as nervous when i picked up the 20 footer...getting passed the notion of keeping up to traffic is going to be a bear for me. It get's dangerous for all those involved when traffic begins to back up behind somebody when you've only got 1 lane to work with and short passing lanes.

TDG · 12-22-2014, 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slowmover

I'd imagine the weight of the trailer is less than that. Loaded for camping it might get on up a ways. Weigh it with full propane and fresh wAter. Add 500# to that for camping

At still under 8 k your truck will be alright. Brakes on the trailer is what to focus upon. May also need new axles so combine purchase. Direclink brake controller and best hitch. 16" wheels and Load Range E tires

All i have to go on is the badge on the front of the unit. I has assumed it meant dry weight, but perhaps i'm wrong.

As i mentioned in the above post, i've got the built in brake controller, so i'd hate to have to replace it...but if i must, i must. Thanks for the tips on the wheel/tires. I hadn't thought about the wheels making much of a difference?

TDG · 12-22-2014, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Farmer Dan

TDG,
I have the same truck. '10 F150, SCREW, maxtow, 157" WB, 6.5' box, 5.4 eng, 6 spd. The rating on this truck is 11,300 towing capacity. My '02 30' Classic w / slide weighs about 8,400 empty and near 9,000 with water, propane, etc. Hitch wt is 840. I use an Equalizer 10,000 / 1,000 hitch. We have towed from SW Iowa to Glacier Park, Yellowstone Park and, even went to Newfoundland with this rig. We also tow to SW Florida every winter. The truck handles the load fine. In tow/haul mode the tranny will downshift with brake application and will do a good job on the downhills. As mentioned, trailer brakes need to be in good condition. After our first big trip, which was to Newfoundland, I upgraded the inadequate P rated truck tires to Michelin LR E.
This truck has performed very well for me. I would expect yours to be similar. You will be working the truck a little on the inclines but I think you will have plenty of power -unless you have to be the first to the top of the mountain!

Dan

Thanks, Dan. Good to hear from you folks with much more experience than myself.

Bill M. · 12-22-2014, 02:59 PM

Get the trailer ready. Brakes, hitch, bearings, etc. Make sure the truck brakes are up to snuff. It does have discs on all 4 wheels, does it not?. Hitch it up. Take the rig to the CAT scales. Weigh the truck and trailer hitched up. Weigh the truck unhitched. Adjust your WD hitch so you have some of the weight going to the front wheels. When you are finished the trailer should be level and the truck front axle weight should be back to what it was without the trailer or even a little more. When you get it hitched right take it for a ride up a moderately steep hill. Then you will have the information you need to tell you if you like to pull it with this truck. No need to panic yet. I pulled my 25' with a 1997 150 for just a little while. Then I bought a 2500 diesel. I can tell you we like the 2500 better but it is indeed over-pull. We pull 6 months of the year so I really like the heavy rig.

TDG · 12-22-2014, 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill M.

Get the trailer ready. Brakes, hitch, bearings, etc. Make sure the truck brakes are up to snuff. It does have discs on all 4 wheels, does it not?. Hitch it up. Take the rig to the CAT scales. Weigh the truck and trailer hitched up. Weigh the truck unhitched. Adjust your WD hitch so you have some of the weight going to the front wheels. When you are finished the trailer should be level and the truck front axle weight should be back to what it was without the trailer or even a little more. When you get it hitched right take it for a ride up a moderately steep hill. Then you will have the information you need to tell you if you like to pull it with this truck. No need to panic yet. I pulled my 25' with a 1997 150 for just a little while. Then I bought a 2500 diesel. I can tell you we like the 2500 better but it is indeed over-pull. We pull 6 months of the year so I really like the heavy rig.

Yessir, 4 wheel discs.

Looks like i'm about to get really adept at WD hitches...or hopelessly frustrated. Either way

slowmover · 12-22-2014, 03:40 PM

Look in spec sheet around here for your year and model of TT. 7700 is likely GVWR unless I am way off on a 1975 31'.

reelfastgreg · 12-23-2014, 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TDG

snaking through Seattle on our next trip to Fort Flagler. Yes, i do have the built in brake controller...it's always been find with my last trailer, but as mentioned, this AS is more than double what the Vanguard is.

Seattle traffic is always terrible, no matter the time of day. sort of rivialing LA at this point.

Flagler is a great place with lots and lots of interesting trails to walk courtesy of WWI gun implacements.

i am sure you will fiddle with the built in controller and find the appropriate setting for the new trailer. should only take a couple of stops with it in tow until you figure out, more or less from the controller. just remember to have the trailer brakes come on a snitch before the truck brakes. you don't want the trailer pushing the truck nor do you want the trailer braking for the truck. easy enough to strike the balance.

see you in PT this spring/summer

Arcticfox · 12-23-2014, 11:01 AM

Looks like you have received some good advise here. I'm not sure I can add to it, other than to say the big trick with a 150 size truck to to make sure your hitch is set properly and your getting enough weight back onto your front end.
Other than that you will not have tons of power with the 5.4, but that does not mean it's not up to the task. It just means your taking the hills a little slower. That is not a bad thing as you get to see more as you drive by....lol
Good luck
Cheers
Doug

Sent from my iPad using Airstream Forums

rostam · 12-23-2014, 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slowmover

Look in spec sheet around here for your year and model of TT. 7700 is likely GVWR unless I am way off on a 1975 31'.

Here are the year, name, length, dry weight, and dry hitch weight for various bath configurations:

1975, SOVEREIGN INTERNATIONAL LY, 31, REAR BATH TWIN, 5035, 490
1975, SOVEREIGN INTERNATIONAL LY, 31, REAR BATH DOUBLE, 5065, 495
1975, SOVEREIGN INTERNATIONAL LY, 31, CENTER BATH TWIN, 4975, 650
1975, SOVEREIGN INTERNATIONAL LY, 31, CENTER BATH DOUBLE, 4970, 690

Arcticfox · 12-23-2014, 11:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rostam

Here are the year, name, length, dry weight, and dry hitch weight for various bath configurations:

1975, SOVEREIGN INTERNATIONAL LY, 31, REAR BATH TWIN, 5035, 490
1975, SOVEREIGN INTERNATIONAL LY, 31, REAR BATH DOUBLE, 5065, 495
1975, SOVEREIGN INTERNATIONAL LY, 31, CENTER BATH TWIN, 4975, 650
1975, SOVEREIGN INTERNATIONAL LY, 31, CENTER BATH DOUBLE, 4970, 690

These weights make a lot more sense.....

tjdonahoe · 12-23-2014, 11:47 AM

If in the bc, you have mountains and are underpowered,if on flat land in the Midwest states, border line, I know, been there and done that.....

buffaloman · 12-23-2014, 02:18 PM

Having lived in the Seattle area for over 35 years, I can tell you the I-5 traffic is usually a mess. If you are coming from the north and wish to avoid downtown Seattle, take I 405. Its a bypass around Seattle to the Renton Tukwila area. If you are going to the Olympic Peninsula, you can either take several ferries ( expensive with a trailer but worth the view) or you can drive around through Tacoma.

Enjoy your trip.

NavyCorpsman · 12-23-2014, 10:02 PM

I have to agree with everyone here....Your truck will pull and stop it fine, just go a little slower. If you decide to go with a bigger TV, engine torque and final drive gearing are everything. We have some steep areas around here and the Yukon 5.3 L is adequate. If my destination is a little more demanding, out comes the Ford F Superduty with the 460 and 5.38:1 rear. In first gear I can idle up a mountain pass. We love our Sovereign. You will love yours too.

vhaalen · 01-09-2015, 04:59 PM

We tow a 2007 27' FB Classic with a 2009 F-150 King Ranch 5.4L with tow package. We live in Bellingham, WA and have driven from here to Iowa on I-80 and I-90 3 times, over the Big Horns in Wyoming, Lookout Pass and 4th of July Pass in Idaho. We've done 2 trips across the North Cascades Hwy. We have also covered a significant stretch of Hwy 1 in N. Cal. Very happy with the performance of the TV! Learned early on to gear down on descents and not ride the brakes. I remember reading on the Fprum early on to slow down and and not to feel pressured by other aggressive drivers. Only disappointment has been 11 mpg. With gas at $2/gal, that's not as big a deal today. Heading to Tucson next Tuesday via Sun Valley!

**DKB_SATX** · 01-09-2015, 05:09 PM

As long as you're not squeamish about letting the truck downshift and turn the higher RPMs it needs to make its peak output, it'll do it. You'll likely do better than mine since you have the 6-speed automatic, towing over the continental divide my '07 with the 4-speed auto settles in around 45 mph in 2nd, wide open. And it doesn't overheat the transmission or the truck, by the way, though the transmission temp does go up.

If there's nothing wrong with your truck, set it up right and tow for a while to see if the performance is satisfactory for you. The best financial choice is always to "run what you brung" if you can, rather than buying some new depreciation.