HELP!! Leaks in back

[McDonalds]

Okay, I've just about had it. My trunk leaks (1971 Overlander) on the right side and I can not find the leak. I've sealed just about everything. EXCEPT: the back running lights, the Airstream letters and the license plate light. After a rain there is always water in the 'c' channel of the door on the right, and water on the rotting wood on the right. HELP!!!

[soldiermedic]

How does your vent pipe gasket look up top? That could be a cause. Also consider the roof vent, or rear access hatch if it has one.

Steve

[kevin242]

I have not done it, but I know some people have sealed up every window, door, vent and hatch and then opened a small window, sealed it with plastic allowing a hole in the plastic for a high air volume leaf blower nozzle or reversed shop vac nozzle and then pressurized the inside of the trailer. While the trailer is under pressure, they slop soapy water around possible leak locations and look for bubbles.

Worth a try?

[Michigander]

Originally Posted by kevin242

I have not done it, but I know some people have sealed up every window, door, vent and hatch and then opened a small window, sealed it with plastic allowing a hole in the plastic for a high air volume leaf blower nozzle or reversed shop vac nozzle and then pressurized the inside of the trailer. While the trailer is under pressure, they slop soapy water around possible leak locations and look for bubbles.

Worth a try?

Sounds like a great idea! I would use the shop vac, though, to avoid gas/oil exhaust fumes from entering and staying in the TT.

Also, Steve, running lights really take a beating from the sun, etc. I re-sealed mine on the front of my MH and cured my problem. Good luck.

[barts]

I found that the seam between the body and the tail lights appeared to leak water on our 71 Tradwind... I sealed all around the top and sides with Gutterseal and the problem went away. I didn't remove all the interior panels to verify that this was the source of the leak, but it seems at least plausible.

One trick you can do if you have enough dry weather is to make it "rain" locally: wet the area you suspect of leaking with a hose.

Where does the air conditioner drain hose run?

- Bart

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by McDonalds

Okay, I've just about had it. My trunk leaks (1971 Overlander) on the right side and I can not find the leak. I've sealed just about everything. EXCEPT: the back running lights, the Airstream letters and the license plate light. After a rain there is always water in the 'c' channel of the door on the right, and water on the rotting wood on the right. HELP!!!

Sewer vent pipe cover gaskets last 2 to 3 years.

Your description of the location, says thats where the leak is at.

Andy

[McDonalds]

Hey thanks for the input, but I don't get how the sewer vent pipe could be the cause. The vent is well north of the actual leak. I've laid towels back there and there is no overhead wetness on the towels. I get that the water could travel down the pipe and then leak. But the rotten plywood is just inside the trunk, right next to the back wall behind the tub. Also, if I get this stopped, is there any cause for other concerns? The whole area rotted is only about 4"x5".

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by McDonalds

Hey thanks for the input, but I don't get how the sewer vent pipe could be the cause. The vent is well north of the actual leak. I've laid towels back there and there is no overhead wetness on the towels. I get that the water could travel down the pipe and then leak. But the rotten plywood is just inside the trunk, right next to the back wall behind the tub. Also, if I get this stopped, is there any cause for other concerns? The whole area rotted is only about 4"x5".

The water follows the vent pipe from the roof down.

Thousands of owners have experienced your current issue.

Please take the cover off and "look".

Andy

[soldiermedic]

Originally Posted by kevin242

I have not done it, but I know some people have sealed up every window, door, vent and hatch and then opened a small window, sealed it with plastic allowing a hole in the plastic for a high air volume leaf blower nozzle or reversed shop vac nozzle and then pressurized the inside of the trailer. While the trailer is under pressure, they slop soapy water around possible leak locations and look for bubbles.

Worth a try?

This is not a good way to accomplish this. Even running a shop vac or leaf blower at max capacity long term, it will not properly pressurize the interior. The machine designed for this testing is called a Sealtech 430R. It has a large squirrel cage impeller that can be adjusted to pressurize small to larger trailers. This is the machine I use, and it works very well.

Steve

[Colin H]

Originally Posted by soldiermedic

This is not a good way to accomplish this. Even running a shop vac or leaf blower at max capacity long term, it will not properly pressurize the interior. The machine designed for this testing is called a Sealtech 430R. It has a large squirrel cage impeller that can be adjusted to pressurize small to larger trailers. This is the machine I use, and it works very well.

Steve

Yeah, Steve is right. I have a 430R too & it works well. I'll second the earlier comments about the marker lights & vent gasket. Take each one of those off & re seal, then take it to a professional. There should be an RV shop in your area that has a 430R.
Leaks are always a chore but they all have them.
Good luck,
Colin