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AuntieLori · 08-04-2016, 07:19 PM

I have my floor and insulation out but the belly pan is still in right now. My outriggers are horribly rusted and I am having to replace several of them. We had a good rain today and I discovered water steadily streaming down the inside of the banana wrap and pooling into the belly pan. I did some sleuthing and also discovered that the banana wrap is placed outside, rather than behind/inside the next higher wall panel. No maintenance has been done on this trailer for years so water was pouring down behind the rub molding and in through that seam.

I did some research on what others have said about this issue. Some say it's no big deal because the water just drains out. I can say it does not drain out. I have puddles that just sit. And if there were any insulation in that area still it would be soaked. That's why my outriggers are so rusted.

So I have a question now to everyone who decided to reverse the order and tuck it under the wall piece. Have you had any problems since you did that? I know I can run a line of vulkreem across that seam and seal the top of the molding too, but it seems like the better solution is to tuck it under the wall panel.

Aerowood · 08-04-2016, 07:34 PM

I reinstalled mine under the skin, no problems

Chuck · 08-04-2016, 07:55 PM

...said the expert metal worker.

I wouldn't be able to get them to fit that way...I did try and fuss around with the wraps in the back...they won't fit that way.
That would certainly be optimal, if you can get it to work. At the very least, take those from banana wraps off and inspect the edge of the floor; there is a big exposed section in mine. (well, there was. its gone, now, as I completely removed the floor, because it was so rotten).

The outer skin on the end-cap hangs down low, and covers the edge of the plywood pretty well; but there's a little spot where it meets the straight side-walls of the trailer where this was trimmed back, exposing the edge of the floor. Water got in through the design flaw you mentioned, and totally rotted it out. This could have been prevented by a 6" x2" piece of flashing.

amazingly, though, the outriggers are all fine. just surface rust. The insulation fell down and bunched up against the main frame rail when it got wet. (probably the week it left the factory. complete waste of time to put fiberglass in there.

). The rust was heavier along the bottom of the frame, where the soaked insulation was bunched up...but still not bad.

HiJoeSilver · 08-04-2016, 08:15 PM

I tried, and gave up. I think if I had removed some more rivets I might have gotten it to work on the sides. I don't think there is a chance in hades I could have gotten the banana wraps in that way. So I put a bead of sealant behind the top edge between the wrap and skin before riveting the wraps back on. Seems to stop most of the water. Before I put the trim back I'm going to put some aluminum tape over the joint.

dwhitake · 08-05-2016, 11:21 AM

I couldn't get mine behind the skins either.

I used vulkum and put them back as they were.

Kind of wishing, I didn't put insulation in the floor or at least may used some type of foam board instead.

Good Luck!

TheGreatleys · 08-05-2016, 12:03 PM

I was planning on putting the edge of the banana wrap under the skin, but I had my shell on and interior skins in long before I was ready to install the belly pan. For this to work in a full monte, it seems like you would need to install the subfloor, then put the shell on (since you need to access the inside of the belly pan to bolt down the shell), then install the banana wraps BEFORE re-riveting the perimeter of the shell to the C-channel. Then you would be free to install the interior skin or flat portion of the belly pan at your leisure.

I did the belly pan last, so my shell was already bucked to my c-channels, and there was no room to slip the banana wraps under the skin.

Aerowood · 08-05-2016, 05:49 PM

I had to replace all of my lower skins so it was no big deal to put the wraps under the skin at that time

perryg114 · 08-05-2016, 06:26 PM

If you caulk the exposed edge prior to putting the belly band back on you are good. Then caulk the upper edge of the belly band only. Otherwise, like the others have said you have to drill out rivets to the wrap can go under the upper skin. Unless you are Aerowood and know how to buck rivets, I would not mess with this unless you are going to do a major overhaul back there. There are multiple places for water to get under the floor and it soaks that fiberglass and holds it there. The biggest problem is the plate in front of the bumper at the back. The storage compartment also funnels water under the floor. These things are not really made to last forever. They could have been with a little extra expense at the factory.

Perry

TheGreatleys · 08-05-2016, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by perryg114

If you caulk the exposed edge prior to putting the belly band back on you are good.

You would think that would do it, but it doesn't. Since the water then pools behind the belt line, it travels laterally across the caulk until it finds the one little bit that didn't pull quite tight enough together and gets past the caulk. Ask me how I know.

Quote:

Originally Posted by perryg114

Then caulk the upper edge of the belly band only.

That belt line caulk is what really does the job. Not saying the caulk behind the belt line isn't a good idea, just don't skip the stuff on the top of the belt line.

perryg114 · 08-06-2016, 09:21 AM

The more seals the better. For several months I did not have any belly trim at all. Just some silver duct tape till I got it all patched up (no leaks). Pop rivet heads should be sealed. Awning brackets, tail light housings (usually cracked). Window frame seams, window gasket seals (yes even on fixed windows). Loose rivets especially around door frames. Install drains in C-channels to funnel any remaining leaks under floor. POR15 frame and get rid of fiberglass insulation. Replace gaskets on roof vents because they can bypass all your hard work. Consider a different type of vent other than the TeePEE vents most trailers use. These leak around a rubber gasket that fits around the vent pipe. One crack in that rubber will let water in (crappy design).

Also consider a floor covering that only covers the areas you walk on and bare floor under beds and counters so water can evaporate you can see and find leaks. Some folks use water detector alarms so they can find leaks early before the back of your trailer falls off. Seal all penetrations through the C-channel through the floor. Kitchen vent fans are another source of leaks.

Perry

The Twinkie · 08-07-2016, 10:07 AM

At the risk of being sent to the wood shed.....
we have just finished and painted our TW a metallic silver with 3 coats of clearcoat....so smooth and shiny.
Before that, bananas and belly were removed, out riggers replaced as needed, 1/3 of the frame and floor replaced.
What we did was to not replace the belly pan....just let the rain go behind the bananas and drain out to the ground. The frame was hand brushed/sanded, primed and painted....the wood was sprayed with undercoating.
I figure why let the moisture sit in that area.....to just let it get wet and dry quickly by being exposed to the air!!!
And away we go!