Shower Door has slipped

[SkippinOut]

I have a 2012 28' Flying Cloud. The shower door has slipped down into the sill beneath it, making it very difficult to open or close the door. I'm guessing that I should be able to lift it back into place and tighten some screws to hold it in place, but for the life of me I can't find the screws.

Anyone have any suggestions or ideas?

[SteveH]

Ours has a plastic/magnetic strip with a plastic plug holding it in that has slipped out a couple of times, making the door hard to open/shut. The actual door did not move.

After I figured out what was happening, I glued the plastic plug back in place with some Goop, and all has been well since.

[gtc6452]

Just took mine to Jackson center and its on the inside top of the door, they adjusted it and its great now.

[SkippinOut]

Thanks, guys, but I was hoping for some more specific advice than taking it to Jackson Center. I am 3 months into a 6 month journey and am currently in the wilds of Wyoming. It would be nice to be able to fix, or at least jury rig, the shower door myself so that I don't have to take it a long way to a dealer or back to the mothership to repair.

Also, I don't see any obvious screw to tighten. There are two screws, one at the top and one at the bottom of the edge of the door, but they look like they're to keep the frame around the glass tight. There are also some screws along the frame itself, but I don't see any screws near the hinge area to tighten.

Any specific help or guidance would be greatly appreciated.

[SkippinOut]

I've attached two photos of the top edge and top of the hinge to show what I'm trying to describe. Hope that helps!

Thanks in advance.

[gtc6452]

Sorry, it a spacer that has slipped or is missing

[gtc6452]

let me try better words. Mine was a spacer at the top of the hinge, My spacer was either missing or had slipped out. hope you find a way to fix it. I had to lift mine every time I opened or closed it.

[SkippinOut]

Thanks, gtc. Unfortunately, I think that's what I'm going to have to live with also. I've tried tightening the screws in the photo, but they're already as tight as they're going to go.

One of the problems of lifting every time you want to go in or out, besides the difficulty of doing it with wet hands, is that the plastic apron on the bottom of the door that acts as a water shield is tearing.

Oh well, it's just another one of those things, I guess.

[murreywalker]

I've had issues with our shower, and went straight to the manufacturer. With their help, I'm hopeful that our door and its problems have been solved. However, we won't know for sure until we get back out on the road.

Apparently AS changed vendors of shower enclosures in 2012, so I can't help the 2012 issue, but I do have a better knowledge of what's going on with the pre 2012 shower doors. ;O)

I would suggest you try to get in touch with the manufacturer if you're the least bit handy with stuff.

[gtc6452]

Yes, I replaced my price at the bottom. I lifted from the top of the door, but it is hard with wet hand, hope you can get the part you need,.

[SkippinOut]

Murrey:

How do you determine the manufacturer of the shower? I've looked in my kit of manuals, and there's nothing regarding the shower. I also can't find any identifying labels or marks in the shower or on the door itself, unless I'm looking in the wrong place and/or simply missing it.

Thanks again for all of your help.

[Jim Flower]

Originally Posted by SkippinOut

Murrey:

How do you determine the manufacturer of the shower? I've looked in my kit of manuals, and there's nothing regarding the shower. I also can't find any identifying labels or marks in the shower or on the door itself, unless I'm looking in the wrong place and/or simply missing it.

Thanks again for all of your help.

I spent the morning trying to fix the identical problem on mine. I have had it back to the dealer twice and he has provided a fix that works well in the parking lot but fails after a few miles on the road. The first attempts involved tightening the screw at the top but that is only part of the problem. I think there should be some kind of tubular support at the bottom that actually supports the door from the underside as apposed to just screwing into something from the side. This is what I did as a road fix that hopefully will last until the dealer replaces the whole mess. First, don't throw out any miscellaneous bits and pieces that you find rolling around on the floor after a road trip. Find a plastic spacer that you can fit in at the bottom of the door at the hinge that will support the door and allow the door to be operated. Fix the seal by ensuring that it rests in its grove so the door won't leak. Lift the door slightly from the bottom and insert the spacer. Temporary fix done. Take the thing to your dealer and ask him to fix this unfortunate piece of junk under warranty.

[goodwrench]

can you put a shower door on a 1989 excella it has a shower curtain now it is horrible

[KayMc]

Just saw this thread on shower doors. My 2012 top slider for the shower door fell off (only used the shower a couple of times) and the door is no longer operable. While I can secure one end of the slider, the other end will not snap into place. There is a plastic cap that the end of the slider bar fits into and it appears that the cap/slider should then be pushed into place/secured by a screw. But with the cap on, the bar will not snap into place behind the "screw." Can't determine if it should be loosened, then tightened.

Anyone had this problem??

The Airstreams are a delight, however they need to upgrade for durability all working interior parts. Too expensive to cut corners. (This was added for the purpose of any airstream reps reviewing threads!)

[Losman]

Same thing happened to our 2014 25' Flying Cloud. We have it scheduled for warranty repair the first week in November. My concern is that this is a design flaw which will require repeated visits to the dealer for repair.

[gtc6452]

mine was fixed once and has been fine for over a year.

[brad1]

Apparently, the shower door in many late model Airstreams starting with at least 2010 when I got mine, has a design flaw that causes it to drop slightly in it's frame, causing the metal bottom edge of the shower door frame to come in contact with the metal flange on the bottom of the shower door surround. It's a design flaw, all right. And you are likely to put in several service visits over the issue.

Dealerships know about this problem and know a fairly easy fix that they can charge off to warranty repair and get reimbursed from Airstream for doing. Unfortunately, this fix rarely lasts, especially if the Airstream in question is ever taken over semi rough terrain. A brief section of washboard, for instance, will cause the problem to reappear. So will a speed bump taken at the wrong speed. Or not. It depends. In my case, it keeps happening.

The fix consists of installing a small piece of plastic tubing in the space between the top of the metal frame of the shower door (just below a tantalizing, but unrelated, Phillips head screw into the top of the assembly), and the stall-side metal door support/hinge structure. The space is only seen on when the door is gently lifted to the top of it's track. It's a gap of only about 3/16 to 1/4. (And you can see i--or actually, you can see where it ought to be--in one of the excellent photos posted earlier in the thread) The piece of plastic tubing is cut through, and the cut allows you to press it onto and almost around the support pin of the hinge. That same cut makes it easy for the slightest jar to dislodge it. So the fix only lasts a little while, which everyone knows about, which makes it kind of a scam. Unless you can get the repair tech to show you how they're "fixing" it, and explain to you why their new variation on the above (and there has to be a better variation) will actually work when you put some real miles on your rig.

I would be so stoked if some smart tech would school me with a better fix.

[Foiled Again]

My FC had the same issue, and I kinda expect it to appear on the new EB. I'm thinking that there may be a plastic split washer that could be inserted around the hinge pin, top and bottom to raise the door on the hinge. I used to use one of those over the cabinet door towel bars on the shower door - the weight of a big bath sheet on a cheap hinge?

The real solution is probably higher quality replacement hinges - but the shower curtain idea has a lot of merit especially if you think of "I've fallen and I can't get up." The door is safety glass. But a strong cloth shower curtain over a really sturdy rod might be something to grab to prevent a slip and fall.

Lots of stuff like this is routine maintenance even in a house. They really don't make most stuff the way they used to. I keep a supply of "rubber a$$holes" for the stovetop because I do remove the grids and clean the top regularly and I swear something in the Airstream periodically eats one of the things. The dark floor on the EB makes them just disappear too. Fulltiming - latches come unscrewed, and the screw holes get loose. Toothpicks and Elmer's glue and you're good to go.

Paula

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by Foiled Again

The dark floor on the EB makes them just disappear too.

A contact-lens wearer taught me the trick for finding small hard-to-see items on a floor. Get a powerful flashlight, turn it on, and lay it on the floor. Even small items will cast a long shadow, and you just have to find where the shadow begins to find the item.

[brad1]

Originally Posted by Foiled Again

My FC had the same issue, and I kinda expect it to appear on the new EB. I'm thinking that there may be a plastic split washer that could be inserted around the hinge pin, top and bottom to raise the door on the hinge.

Paula

You're going to love this solution. Like most guys with a clear problem that lacks a clear solution, I went trolling through the isles of the closest hardware store. In this case, it was a home depot. I picked up a 1/2" dowel, thinking I could cut a chunk to slip in under the door at the corner of the surround and the hinge plate. I picked up some copper crimp flanges that looked like one or another might fit and do the job. And almost on a whim, I picked up a package of three slim, round magnets.

I tried the magnets first. Even though I think the metal of the shower door surround and door frame assemblies are aluminum, the magnets worked their way back into the space below the hinge assembly. Unfortunately, they were a little to slim, even all three together, to support the door. But they had come in packaging that included a square piece of mallable but magnetic material, designed, I suppose, to make the three look bigger in their blister pack. I snipped off a piece of that material, slipped it under the three magnetsa and pushed the whole stack back into the corner where they nested with magnetic attraction, perfectly raising the door so that the lower edge no longer interferes with the lower edge of the surround.

They may squirt out on a bumpy road some day, but at least they'll hang together to make finding easier.