Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 08-01-2012, 02:57 PM   #1
1 Rivet Member
 
2012 28' Flying Cloud
College Station , Texas
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 6
Shower Door has slipped

I have a 2012 28' Flying Cloud. The shower door has slipped down into the sill beneath it, making it very difficult to open or close the door. I'm guessing that I should be able to lift it back into place and tighten some screws to hold it in place, but for the life of me I can't find the screws.

Anyone have any suggestions or ideas?
__________________

SkippinOut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2012, 03:36 PM   #2
Rivet Master
 
SteveH's Avatar
 
2005 39' Land Yacht 390 XL 396
Common Sense , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,319
Ours has a plastic/magnetic strip with a plastic plug holding it in that has slipped out a couple of times, making the door hard to open/shut. The actual door did not move.

After I figured out what was happening, I glued the plastic plug back in place with some Goop, and all has been well since.
__________________

SteveH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2012, 04:01 PM   #3
3 Rivet Member
 
gtc6452's Avatar
 
2015 27' Flying Cloud
2011 30' International
mooresburg , Tennessee
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 205
Images: 6
Just took mine to Jackson center and its on the inside top of the door, they adjusted it and its great now.
gtc6452 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2012, 09:00 AM   #4
1 Rivet Member
 
2012 28' Flying Cloud
College Station , Texas
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 6
Thanks, guys, but I was hoping for some more specific advice than taking it to Jackson Center. I am 3 months into a 6 month journey and am currently in the wilds of Wyoming. It would be nice to be able to fix, or at least jury rig, the shower door myself so that I don't have to take it a long way to a dealer or back to the mothership to repair.

Also, I don't see any obvious screw to tighten. There are two screws, one at the top and one at the bottom of the edge of the door, but they look like they're to keep the frame around the glass tight. There are also some screws along the frame itself, but I don't see any screws near the hinge area to tighten.

Any specific help or guidance would be greatly appreciated.
SkippinOut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2012, 09:03 AM   #5
1 Rivet Member
 
2012 28' Flying Cloud
College Station , Texas
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 6
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_2759.jpg
Views:	272
Size:	77.9 KB
ID:	164528

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_2761.jpg
Views:	294
Size:	182.1 KB
ID:	164529

I've attached two photos of the top edge and top of the hinge to show what I'm trying to describe. Hope that helps!

Thanks in advance.
SkippinOut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2012, 09:09 AM   #6
3 Rivet Member
 
gtc6452's Avatar
 
2015 27' Flying Cloud
2011 30' International
mooresburg , Tennessee
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 205
Images: 6
Sorry, it a spacer that has slipped or is missing
gtc6452 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2012, 09:20 AM   #7
3 Rivet Member
 
gtc6452's Avatar
 
2015 27' Flying Cloud
2011 30' International
mooresburg , Tennessee
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 205
Images: 6
let me try better words. Mine was a spacer at the top of the hinge, My spacer was either missing or had slipped out. hope you find a way to fix it. I had to lift mine every time I opened or closed it.
gtc6452 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2012, 08:42 AM   #8
1 Rivet Member
 
2012 28' Flying Cloud
College Station , Texas
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 6
Thanks, gtc. Unfortunately, I think that's what I'm going to have to live with also. I've tried tightening the screws in the photo, but they're already as tight as they're going to go.

One of the problems of lifting every time you want to go in or out, besides the difficulty of doing it with wet hands, is that the plastic apron on the bottom of the door that acts as a water shield is tearing.

Oh well, it's just another one of those things, I guess.
SkippinOut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2012, 08:50 AM   #9
Rivet Master
 
murreywalker's Avatar
 
2013 25' FB Flying Cloud
2011 23' FB Flying Cloud
Branson , Missouri
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 734
Images: 1
I've had issues with our shower, and went straight to the manufacturer. With their help, I'm hopeful that our door and its problems have been solved. However, we won't know for sure until we get back out on the road.

Apparently AS changed vendors of shower enclosures in 2012, so I can't help the 2012 issue, but I do have a better knowledge of what's going on with the pre 2012 shower doors. ;O)

I would suggest you try to get in touch with the manufacturer if you're the least bit handy with stuff.
__________________
2013 25 FC FB (Twin)
2013 Suburban 2500

https://www.pbase.com/murreywalker

2011 23 FC FB
murreywalker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2012, 08:50 AM   #10
3 Rivet Member
 
gtc6452's Avatar
 
2015 27' Flying Cloud
2011 30' International
mooresburg , Tennessee
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 205
Images: 6
Yes, I replaced my price at the bottom. I lifted from the top of the door, but it is hard with wet hand, hope you can get the part you need,.
gtc6452 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2012, 10:29 AM   #11
1 Rivet Member
 
2012 28' Flying Cloud
College Station , Texas
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 6
Murrey:

How do you determine the manufacturer of the shower? I've looked in my kit of manuals, and there's nothing regarding the shower. I also can't find any identifying labels or marks in the shower or on the door itself, unless I'm looking in the wrong place and/or simply missing it.

Thanks again for all of your help.
SkippinOut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2012, 12:26 PM   #12
Prairie Schooner II
 
Jim Flower's Avatar

 
2012 30' International
1997 25' Safari
1967 20' Globetrotter
Burlington , Ontario
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,438
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkippinOut
Murrey:

How do you determine the manufacturer of the shower? I've looked in my kit of manuals, and there's nothing regarding the shower. I also can't find any identifying labels or marks in the shower or on the door itself, unless I'm looking in the wrong place and/or simply missing it.

Thanks again for all of your help.
I spent the morning trying to fix the identical problem on mine. I have had it back to the dealer twice and he has provided a fix that works well in the parking lot but fails after a few miles on the road. The first attempts involved tightening the screw at the top but that is only part of the problem. I think there should be some kind of tubular support at the bottom that actually supports the door from the underside as apposed to just screwing into something from the side. This is what I did as a road fix that hopefully will last until the dealer replaces the whole mess. First, don't throw out any miscellaneous bits and pieces that you find rolling around on the floor after a road trip. Find a plastic spacer that you can fit in at the bottom of the door at the hinge that will support the door and allow the door to be operated. Fix the seal by ensuring that it rests in its grove so the door won't leak. Lift the door slightly from the bottom and insert the spacer. Temporary fix done. Take the thing to your dealer and ask him to fix this unfortunate piece of junk under warranty.
__________________
Jim
Jim Flower is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2012, 01:10 PM   #13
2 Rivet Member
 
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Louisville , Kentucky
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 21
can you put a shower door on a 1989 excella it has a shower curtain now it is horrible
goodwrench is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2012, 11:20 PM   #14
1 Rivet Member
 
Inverness , California
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 9
Top slider problem 2012 Flying CLoud

Just saw this thread on shower doors. My 2012 top slider for the shower door fell off (only used the shower a couple of times) and the door is no longer operable. While I can secure one end of the slider, the other end will not snap into place. There is a plastic cap that the end of the slider bar fits into and it appears that the cap/slider should then be pushed into place/secured by a screw. But with the cap on, the bar will not snap into place behind the "screw." Can't determine if it should be loosened, then tightened.

Anyone had this problem??

The Airstreams are a delight, however they need to upgrade for durability all working interior parts. Too expensive to cut corners. (This was added for the purpose of any airstream reps reviewing threads!)
KayMc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2013, 10:14 PM   #15
1 Rivet Member
 
2019 26' Flying Cloud
Colorado Springs , CO
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 12
Same thing happened to our 2014 25' Flying Cloud. We have it scheduled for warranty repair the first week in November. My concern is that this is a design flaw which will require repeated visits to the dealer for repair.
Losman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2013, 06:59 AM   #16
3 Rivet Member
 
gtc6452's Avatar
 
2015 27' Flying Cloud
2011 30' International
mooresburg , Tennessee
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 205
Images: 6
mine was fixed once and has been fine for over a year.
gtc6452 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2014, 10:01 PM   #17
3 Rivet Member
 
2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
2009 19' International
Aptos , California
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 234
Images: 1
Shower door suspension is a design flaw

Apparently, the shower door in many late model Airstreams starting with at least 2010 when I got mine, has a design flaw that causes it to drop slightly in it's frame, causing the metal bottom edge of the shower door frame to come in contact with the metal flange on the bottom of the shower door surround. It's a design flaw, all right. And you are likely to put in several service visits over the issue.

Dealerships know about this problem and know a fairly easy fix that they can charge off to warranty repair and get reimbursed from Airstream for doing. Unfortunately, this fix rarely lasts, especially if the Airstream in question is ever taken over semi rough terrain. A brief section of washboard, for instance, will cause the problem to reappear. So will a speed bump taken at the wrong speed. Or not. It depends. In my case, it keeps happening.

The fix consists of installing a small piece of plastic tubing in the space between the top of the metal frame of the shower door (just below a tantalizing, but unrelated, Phillips head screw into the top of the assembly), and the stall-side metal door support/hinge structure. The space is only seen on when the door is gently lifted to the top of it's track. It's a gap of only about 3/16 to 1/4. (And you can see i--or actually, you can see where it ought to be--in one of the excellent photos posted earlier in the thread) The piece of plastic tubing is cut through, and the cut allows you to press it onto and almost around the support pin of the hinge. That same cut makes it easy for the slightest jar to dislodge it. So the fix only lasts a little while, which everyone knows about, which makes it kind of a scam. Unless you can get the repair tech to show you how they're "fixing" it, and explain to you why their new variation on the above (and there has to be a better variation) will actually work when you put some real miles on your rig.

I would be so stoked if some smart tech would school me with a better fix.
brad1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2014, 11:19 PM   #18
Rivet Master
 
Foiled Again's Avatar
 
2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
Vintage Kin Owner
Virginia Beach , Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 7,128
My FC had the same issue, and I kinda expect it to appear on the new EB. I'm thinking that there may be a plastic split washer that could be inserted around the hinge pin, top and bottom to raise the door on the hinge. I used to use one of those over the cabinet door towel bars on the shower door - the weight of a big bath sheet on a cheap hinge?

The real solution is probably higher quality replacement hinges - but the shower curtain idea has a lot of merit especially if you think of "I've fallen and I can't get up." The door is safety glass. But a strong cloth shower curtain over a really sturdy rod might be something to grab to prevent a slip and fall.

Lots of stuff like this is routine maintenance even in a house. They really don't make most stuff the way they used to. I keep a supply of "rubber a$$holes" for the stovetop because I do remove the grids and clean the top regularly and I swear something in the Airstream periodically eats one of the things. The dark floor on the EB makes them just disappear too. Fulltiming - latches come unscrewed, and the screw holes get loose. Toothpicks and Elmer's glue and you're good to go.

Paula
__________________
Today is a gift, that's why they call it the present.
Foiled Again is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2014, 03:23 AM   #19
Figment of My Imagination
 
Protagonist's Avatar
 
2012 Interstate Coach
From All Over , More Than Anywhere Else
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 10,873
Quote:
Originally Posted by Foiled Again View Post
The dark floor on the EB makes them just disappear too.
A contact-lens wearer taught me the trick for finding small hard-to-see items on a floor. Get a powerful flashlight, turn it on, and lay it on the floor. Even small items will cast a long shadow, and you just have to find where the shadow begins to find the item.
__________________
I thought getting old would take longer!
Protagonist is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2014, 05:52 PM   #20
3 Rivet Member
 
2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
2009 19' International
Aptos , California
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 234
Images: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Foiled Again View Post
My FC had the same issue, and I kinda expect it to appear on the new EB. I'm thinking that there may be a plastic split washer that could be inserted around the hinge pin, top and bottom to raise the door on the hinge.

Paula
You're going to love this solution. Like most guys with a clear problem that lacks a clear solution, I went trolling through the isles of the closest hardware store. In this case, it was a home depot. I picked up a 1/2" dowel, thinking I could cut a chunk to slip in under the door at the corner of the surround and the hinge plate. I picked up some copper crimp flanges that looked like one or another might fit and do the job. And almost on a whim, I picked up a package of three slim, round magnets.

I tried the magnets first. Even though I think the metal of the shower door surround and door frame assemblies are aluminum, the magnets worked their way back into the space below the hinge assembly. Unfortunately, they were a little to slim, even all three together, to support the door. But they had come in packaging that included a square piece of mallable but magnetic material, designed, I suppose, to make the three look bigger in their blister pack. I snipped off a piece of that material, slipped it under the three magnetsa and pushed the whole stack back into the corner where they nested with magnetic attraction, perfectly raising the door so that the lower edge no longer interferes with the lower edge of the surround.

They may squirt out on a bumpy road some day, but at least they'll hang together to make finding easier.

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1254.jpg
Views:	184
Size:	262.3 KB
ID:	208338
__________________

brad1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:13 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.