Can any one tell us the make and model of the Water Heaters that would have been used in the 1969 models - Our Model is a GlobeTrotter LandYacht.
As you can see by the picture it has been removed. Well at least this is what we think should be here under the sink beside the hot water tank - Still no Owners Manual and first time A/S'rs (and TT'rs for that matter so we are shooting in the dark. - We know boats but had no hot water on ours so go figure???)
PS. did not have much luck on the fridge replacement skin- called around your suggestions but no such luck. so we are going to try our hand at repairing it.
PSS trying the question again maybe it got missed - as to where to find the model number on the Fridge - any suggestions???
Going to plug her in today Electrical only - LP yet to come and water has to wait a bit when we know we won't drop below 0
Unless I am seriously mistaken, that big grey thing under your sink IS the water heater. It is probably a Bowen 9.9 gallon model, which is no longer available. It might just need repair but if it is to be repaced, Atwood makes heaters that will fit in the same compartment.
They are available from most of the bigger RV suppliers. Inland RV has replacement kits which are a bit pricey but include olympic rivets, vulkem, parbond and an aluminum panel.
I borrowed the image below from vintageairstreams.com. It's a handy reference for basic items. The water heater access door on your '69 is closer to the wheel well.
Rog
ON EDIT: Sorry, I posted this just before your second post appeared.
Thanks for the picture - I do remember this what seems like ions ago when I was first looking into the Vintage A/S. There is just far too much information overload at the moment and trying to keep everything straight is well too funny as you can see.
And for all you over 65'rs don't feel bad we are only in our mid 40's
Seriously - in the water heater picture there is a water line to the far left - where does this hook into? and on the kitchen sink side there is two open ends that gives us the impression that either something else may have been hooked up - or is just the coupling pressure fitting hoses that are missing? that joins the system together.
We can see this is going to be a lot of fun and a barrel of Laughs - I sure hope we don't blow ourselves up when it comes to hooking up the propane Just kidding - that is one thing we are used to - as our house is supplied by LP (Cooktop, Oven, Dryer, Furnace, Water Heater - we would have it all if we could at the price of electricity up here!
Thanks for the reminder on the picture - I will print it off and add it to our file.
Seriously - in the water heater picture there is a water line to the far left - where does this hook into? and on the kitchen sink side there is two open ends that gives us the impression that either something else may have been hooked up - or is just the coupling pressure fitting hoses that are missing? that joins the system together.
My suspicion is that you are looking at the connections for a water purifying filter. It was part of the International package and was available as an option on other coaches. If your coach had the optional water filter, there was often a secondary water faucet installed on the kitchen sink for the filtered water - - I know that this is the case with my Overlander as well as several other 1960s coaches that I have seen. I have also seen references where the water filter was simply connected to the cold water side of the kitchen faucet (possibly a dealer rather than factory install?).
Good luck with your investigation!
Kevin
__________________
Kevin D. Allen WBCCI (Lifetime Member)/VAC #7864 AIR #827
1964 Overlander International
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre
My '66 has the water filter hooked to the cold water supply to the kitchen sink. No seperate spout. And it is an international version.
>>>>>>>>>>Action
__________________
1966 Mercury Park Lane 4 DR Breezeway 410 4V, C-6, 2.80 - Streamless.
1966 Lincoln 4 door Convertible 462 4V 1971 Ford LTD Convertible 429 4V Phoenix ~ Yeah it's hot however it's a dry heat!
Sorry to bring this old thread back - but just thought I would share with you our more recent discovery of the Water Heater initial mystery.
First as you know we found the water heater IT WAS NEVER MISSING
My other question re what was under the sink - well NOTHING! The water filter was pictured there so it was not that and it is hooked up fine.
The extra line that goes no where is in fact the gas line. The confusing part was a) there is a joining gas hose missing from the outer compartment that hooks up the gas line to the regulator of the WH and; b) the under sink gas line that comes up from the under belly has a shut off valve attached to to it - but the line was bent in a way that gave the impression that it hooked up to something closer to the water filter than to that of the gas line that runs from the inside to the WH regulator.
Have to pick up the connecting hose and then we can fire up the water heater.
The yellow lines show where the LP hooks are. Just learning too much these days - and a lot of it is hit and miss!
Sorry low on memory will have to come back and post the Pics
In my unit there is a gas line that comes from under the trailer to below the sink. It is for the furnace. There is another line however it is not directly under the sink. It is for the cook top which is seperate from the oven. The cook top is on the street side near the sink. (Sink is also on the street side on my unit)
So in the pic under your sink the gas line might be for the furnace. What is the metal box in the pic that has the water filter?
>>>>>>>>>>Action
__________________
1966 Mercury Park Lane 4 DR Breezeway 410 4V, C-6, 2.80 - Streamless.
1966 Lincoln 4 door Convertible 462 4V 1971 Ford LTD Convertible 429 4V Phoenix ~ Yeah it's hot however it's a dry heat!
You need more than the brass fittings to connect the lines and connect the line to the heater.
In this picture there is another part missing. There should be a tube that goes from the thermostat to the burner tube. The burner tube is the rusty tube with a shutter that ends under the thermostat. Without this tube the heater will not work, or will just be plain unsafe.
__________________
Brett G
WBCCI #5501 AIR # 49
-------------------------
1978 Argosy 28 foot Motorhome
Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something. -- Plato
Here are the photos indicating where the gas lines are in yellow.
Did I read somewhere that it is okay to use the flex hose type connection?
The FIRST question I'd have is why are those lines missing? Was the PO going to pull the WH and replace it? That's the only reason I can think of that the gas lines would be missing.
Is there something you don't know, that someone else did? If you hook it up, and turn the gas on, what's going to happen?
It might be a good idea to have it checked before you try to fire it up.
Roger
__________________
havin' to fix my broken Airstreams since 1987... AIR 2053 Current: 2004 Airstream Interstate "B-Van" T1N DODGE Sprinter Former Airstreams: 1953 Flying Cloud, 1957 Overlander, 1961 Bambi, 1970 Safari Special, 1978 Argosy Minuet, 1985 325 Moho, 1994 Limited 34' Two-door, 1994 B190 "B-Van"
Hi guys - THANKS for the heads up - have not fired this one up yet - and we are having problems with the furnace so the two may be yanked and new ones put in.
Also thanks Bobby for moving this thread - my initial one was posted before I even knew there were 100's of options where to put various questions.
Action- the metal tank is the actual water heater tank from inside the trailer on the street side - the rest of the water heater is accessed from the outside panel.
The gas line that comes up from the belly pan happens to be on the inside - it was consequently hooked into a coupling line that runs through the bottom of the tank to the outside - there is then supposed to be a receiving connection to the regulator - it is missing - along with another part so these kind fellows have pointed out....
Gees could have been looking at a new hair doo if I fired that one up nevermind doo could be looking for a new head and A/S
Thanks Peter Will keep you posted on what to do...
The cost and time running down the parts to hook up an appliance that "might" work..............for now. I did that and eventually replaced it anyhow.
Vs the cost of buying a new one that "will" work and will not fail you when you least expect it, requiring more time/money/effort just to enjoy the trailer. Believe me the last thing you want is to run out of hot water in the middle of a shower where you live
Remember, using the trailer is supposed to be a relaxing escape form the stress of the daily grind. Not adventures in RV repair. Based on the missing parts I would yank it out and install a new one. The door should be able to transferred to the new heater depending on the age of the current one, and then you will have a known good water heater.
On the furnace. Before you just replace it I would check a couple of things first. Is the gas pressure in your LP system correct?
If the regulator on the bottles is not working correctly the high draw of the furnace could be causing the issue.
I would also check the cross over tubes that connect to the outside of the trailer. These can be inspected form the outside without removing the furnace.
You need to see if they are rubber tubes or metal tubes. Metal is good, rubber may not be safe. If the tubes re cracked you need to get them replaced before using the furnace or you could wake up dead
__________________
Brett G
WBCCI #5501 AIR # 49
-------------------------
1978 Argosy 28 foot Motorhome
Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something. -- Plato
Thought we would up date this thread re: the water heater.
So far we have spent $10.00 CND to replace copper pipe and two valves from the local pluming/heating store. Unfortunately when we were cleaning the unit we dropped the burner assmebly and broke the baffel - so we will now need a new burner assmembly unless they sell just the burner pipe? somewhere.
Had our local propane dealer check over the regulator assembly and they gave the a-okay - just needed a good clean. So we are off to the local RV salvage to see if we can pick up a not so used burner pipe.
Quote:
Based on the missing parts I would yank it out and install a new one
Boy you must be loaded???
We also don't plan on camping up here in the winter!! just camping in the warm/hot weather where a tepid to cold shower is great - but a nice cool lake or ocean is much better!!! Showers are for when your at home - besides our little holding tank would be full after we brush our teeth and have our coffee
Quote:
Remember, using the trailer is supposed to be a relaxing escape form the stress of the daily grind.
It is funny you mention this - we can not believe the number of "campers" that load up their rigs with TV,VCR,DVD,Stereos and Computers doesn't anyone enjoy nature anymore????
Where we live out in the country dusk is just filled with frogs, loons, wood peckers and morning dove calls - why on earth would anyone want to spoil that sound??? (Rather read a good book...play cards and drink with good friends!)
Furnace still pending - but tubes are metal.
Tim if we ever do have to replace the WH we will definitely come to you for the step by step - thanks for the link.
I have one real dissappointed Husband who on the weekend looked like he just lost his last friend.
With about $50.00 in to the water heater and the LP side working to perfection - we finally had a warm stretch and got past the possible freak freeze - so guess who was able to fill up the water tank!!!
...and then guess who had to drain it real quick?????
There's a hole in the bucket dear lyza dear lyza.
Well it's replacement Atwood cost a mean $489.00CND that is nuts. Checked out just replacing the aluminum tank - and that is $250.00 + taxes CND To put a patch in that I understand never really works was going to cost a cool $175-225 = taxes CND
So what goes around comes around and my original title to this thread "looking for waterheater" is quite fitting now.
We are holding out for a trip to Campingworld to pick up the replacement for $296.00US - the LP/Elec - 6 Gal one.
In the mean time it is back to boiling water till the end of June....
and maybe that is why they took those two parts out - not to save blowing us up - but to save us from drowning
Camping folks survived many years before water heaters came along. Most of the campgrounds I stay in have hot showers. I would do just what you're doing, prioritize things and put a new water heater on the list.
No prob in heating water on the stove in the meanwhile.
I want my AS to be totally functional but I'm not about to miss good camping weather because of minor stuff and let's be real, compared to the expense of other stuff, the cost of a new WH is minor.
__________________ Rog
May you camp where wind won’t hit you, where snakes won’t bite and bears won’t git you.
REALLY GLAD you have decided to purchase a new water heater. From what I can see, there was more missing than just the tube from the burner to the control. At the burner end of the original tube is where the orfice ( controls the amount of LP ) goes into the burner. gosh---if you would have turned that thing on, you'd have needed more than a new hair do. Strange that the LP people didn't caution you in that regards. Just to be safe, I'd be checking all the LP lines, before striking a match.
Best,
This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.