City Water Connection mod to avoid cracking/freeze damage

[FloydCoVa]

I’m still trying to figure out why the valve leaks. After doing more research last night what I found out it either had water in valve and it froze last winter. I don’t see how that’s possible as I blow out the waterlines through that fitting. I set my air pressure at 50 lbs. I read the other reason it leaks is account when you use the water heater the water gets so hot the water expands and that split valve is the weak link. I’ve read the water expands it effects both hot and cold lines. They say when you open the faucets that relieves the pressure. This last weekend I turned the water heater on gas to heat some water and I noticed that the seemed to not shut off so I checked the water it was hot and I turned the water heater off. I never just leave the water heater on and walk off. I shut it off when the water is hot. I wonder how many other people have leaks on this valve and fix it or simply don’t know it’s leaking. Peter you have been through three valves I think. I’m thinking on replacing my valve with the new valve like NO NOISE did.

[FloydCoVa]

I’m done! I got to thinking my patch job would only start leaking next summer while we be out camping, so I spent most of Friday redoing the city water inlet once and for all...I hope!

This is the new city water inlet that I think NO NOISE had referred to using on his trailer.
This is a pic of the back of the new valve,I had to make a spacer because the flange was to large and would not fit in the original flange. I superglued a piece of 1 1/2 inch pvc pipe that fit perfect and didn’t block the mounting holes on new one.

This next pic is of the origanial city inlet valve minus the two piece valve. I used a Dremel tool to get the hose connect out and inlarge the hole for the new valve.

Here is the back, I used the Dremel to cut off the plastic mounting parts for the old two piece valve. These needed to be removed for the new holes to mount the new valve.

Now here is a pick of new valve assembly mounted in the original with three stainless bolts,washers and locknuts. In the space created between the two parts with the piece of pvc pipe I used clear silicone caulk.

Next is the finished fix.

Here’s a pick of the inside the way pcskier had done.

[FloydCoVa]

Thanks to pcskier and NO NOISE for there good work. I simply used their ideas and this is what I came up with. This was not to hard to do at all just take your time with the Dremel. I’m hoping no more leaks at the city water connection and for a back up I put a sharkbite valve to isolate it.

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by FloydCoVa

Thanks to pcskier and NO NOISE for there good work. I simply used their ideas and this is what I came up with. This was not to hard to do at all just take your time with the Dremel. I’m hoping no more leaks at the city water connection and for a back up I put a sharkbite valve to isolate it.

Great job! Putting it high on my list.
Mine was not freeze damage because I put the new one in last May. 5 minn m the later I got the leak. Tightening the screws on the back seemed to stop it, there were no cracks. I do think the hot water theory is credible. While my shower valve does not leak—sometimes if I leave the water heater on at night, I’ll hear my shower start to drip slowly. I’ll open a faucet hot side for a second, and the drip stops. So that water expansion is definitely a factor if the whole system has any weak points. It certainly puts pressure on the whole system, hot or cold.
Thanks for the detailed post!

[RFP]

Excellent post, Peter... So, another little preventive project for me... Yay!

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by RFP

Excellent post, Peter... So, another little preventive project for me... Yay!

I'll take credit for half which is the braided hose and valve. Besides being able to isolate the fresh fill valve from the pressurized system, I like being able to actually pull the fresh fill valve six or more inches out of its mounting hole...the previous PEX connection allowed you to pull it out an inch at most. Also taking the stress of the plastic valve is a biggie I think.
No Noize and Scott get the points for showing how to change to the brass valve...one less failure point and maybe something that will actually last and be less prone to leaks from loose screws, stress, or freeze damage. A win on many levels!

[Seanlb]

After numerous leaks and waterlogged subfloors I can finally stop worrying about another shurflo failure.

The RV industry is known for making a lot of crappy defective products, but the inlet/regulator is probably the worst and potentially most damaging component on these coaches.

[pdavey]

Great mod I think I will end up doing the same thing. I made a similar mod to my hot water tank fitting as the installer from the factory left the pex resting on a wood corner and it rubbed its way through.

https://www.airforums.com/forums/sho....php?p=2432576

[Seanlb]

So unacceptable.

[Xplore]

Originally Posted by Seanlb

After numerous leaks and waterlogged subfloors I can finally stop worrying about another shurflo failure.

@seanlb Looks good. What inlet did you use ?

[LNBright]

Originally Posted by Seanlb

So unacceptable.

Care to elaborate?

[rbs]

Originally Posted by Xplore

@seanlb Looks good. What inlet did you use ?

looks like quality, I'd like to know also

[Seanlb]

You can get the inlet on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Ambassador-Marine-Water-Inlet-Stainless/dp/B00HTWP59S

You will also need to add a check valve:

https://www.amazon.com/SharkBite-U2008-0000LFA-Check-Valves-2-Inch/dp/B00506ET10/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=sharkbite+check+v alve&qid=1609864376&sprefix=shark+bite+check&sr=8-3

And drill out the center of the surflo inlet:

https://www.amazon.com/LENOX-Tools-Bi-Metal-Arbored-Technology/dp/B004YK8DMY/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=drill+saw&qid=160 9864452&sr=8-5

[Xplore]

Thanks for all the ideas guys. I went with the Valterra with the brass fitting and check valve. I added a few Pex lines and fittings. Could have made it a little cleaner but wanted to keep as much of the original lines as possible. The loop makes a really nice buffer to keep any tension off the water inlet.

[RivetED]

Great thread!

I've had to replace 2 of these over the years and never had a better fix than just R&R. ...and neither time was it an immediate detection, pump cycling, water dripping, etc. then figuring it out. A small crack here is not usually an easy diagnosis, at least for me.

Another item for the to do list.

[One Smith]

Originally Posted by pcskier

I'll take credit for half which is the braided hose and valve. Besides being able to isolate the fresh fill valve from the pressurized system, I like being able to actually pull the fresh fill valve six or more inches out of its mounting hole...the previous PEX connection allowed you to pull it out an inch at most. Also taking the stress of the plastic valve is a biggie I think.
No Noize and Scott get the points for showing how to change to the brass valve...one less failure point and maybe something that will actually last and be less prone to leaks from loose screws, stress, or freeze damage. A win on many levels!

Hi PCSkier,
Getting ready to do a city water inlet replacement using a brass fitting in the original dress cap. After reading your post I know it’s been a while so I’m wondering if you have had any more leaks or if your modification has held.
Would love a reply.

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by One Smith

Hi PCSkier,
Getting ready to do a city water inlet replacement using a brass fitting in the original dress cap. After reading your post I know it’s been a while so I’m wondering if you have had any more leaks or if your modification has held.
Would love a reply.

I have not changed to a solid brass city water connection yet but I bought one and it’s on my list to modify the shurflo guts with the brass one.

But to answer your question, I had to install yet another shurflo a few months ago. I have learned to remove it now and then to check, and sure As heck the insulation under it was damp again.

I am hooked up to city water (I’m Living in it for now) so I have not had the the valve closed that normally isolates the city inlet from pump pressure when I’m out ‘camping’ and using just the fresh tank. So I am just keeping an eye on the city connection regularly.

[One Smith]

Originally Posted by NO NOIZE

Nice job, and write up. I have seen leaks on many RV's from the stress placed on plastic connections due to bad installs.
When my regulator started leaking it was from the seam where he two white plastic parts are held together with the four screws from the inside.

I really did not care for an all plastic pressure regulator with a seam in the middle inside my Airstream, so I replaced it with this:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I now use an external all brass pressure regulator on the city water fixture before the hose is connected.

If yours should leak again I thought this might be another way to go.

Please let me know if this has worked.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by One Smith

Please let me know if this has worked.

I did the same thing, a couple of years ago. Works perfectly and NO LEAKS. It's easy to do ... about the only tricky part is drilling out the plastic to get rid of the plastic fitting and providing a place for the new, brass, inlet. But it's not rocket surgery and time and perseverence will get it done.

Robert

[NO NOIZE]

I did mine six years ago and no leaks