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balrgn · 03-02-2007, 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by guy99

RV tech just left. (Since we need to live in the rig until next week I decided that I'd let a pro with a good supply of parts have a go)

He replaced the limit switch and it seems to be working. As he was poking around checking continuity of the limit switch, the burner lit. After that, it seemed to be working. He recommended replacing the switch saying often his customer won't replace the switch after it starts working and end up calling him back in a few days.

So we are the proud owner of a new limited switch and a working furnace (at least for now).

Very nice, peace of mind!

guy99 · 03-02-2007, 07:17 PM

After the RV Tech left, the heater worked normally for a while but it was a bit too warm so Marian turned the heat down. A while later she felt cold so turned the thermostat up. The furnace fan started and blew cold air ... I called the RV Tech and he came right back. Replaced the igniter and things seem to be OK. We turned the furnace down and went out to dinner, just returned and the furnace fired up and provided heat. So far so good.

I sure wish there had been a more definitive diagnosis so that I had more confidence in the 'fix'.

Oh well, time will tell.

Tim A. · 03-02-2007, 07:48 PM

We have been among the unlucky few who have had our furnace blow cold air any number of times. The first time it was the igniter (control) board, the second time it was the sail switch, the third time it was a failing gas regulator which reduced the gas pressure, and the fourth-fifth-sixth-etc. times it was the sail switch. Most of these occurrences were underway, of course. I have become expert at taking the furnace out and reinstalling it. This is not a process to be taken lightly, because of the gas lines. Needless to say, I have been very, very careful.

When the cold air problem now arises, I have finally learned to bang on the side of the furnace (I have an access hole) where the sail switch is located. Gets the darn thing to work every time! We still have a spare sail switch and ignition board with us just in case. Oh, also a nice electric space heater.

Rob30044 · 03-02-2007, 09:12 PM

My furnace was blowing cold air too. I was getting 12 volts at the gas valve and the valve was opening. I replaced the ignitor board today. I HAVE HEAT!!

Ben

lewster · 03-03-2007, 05:36 AM

I check on a furnace call is the igniter board. Any RV tech ain't worth salt unless they carry an igniter board tester. It's the only way to tell if the board is working properly. The same board is found on lots of LP appliances other than furnaces....like water heaters and refers too.

After the board is determined to be working, the rest of the components are checked and I will often find more than one problem. I always try to get it done right on the first trip.

guy99 · 03-03-2007, 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lewster

I check on a furnace call is the igniter board. Any RV tech ain't worth salt unless they carry an igniter board tester. It's the only way to tell if the board is working properly. The same board is found on lots of LP appliances other than furnaces....like water heaters and refers too.

After the board is determined to be working, the rest of the components are checked and I will often find more than one problem. I always try to get it done right on the first trip.

Lew,
My wife says that if everyone was as professional and competent as you, the world would be a better place.

The fellow who came to work on my furnace seemed like a nice enough guy but it seemed like he didn't really want to be working Friday afternoon. He must have told me five times that he wanted to avoid taking the furnace out. I asked about the sail switch and the igniter board but he said he hoped it was something else because he would have to remove the furnace to get to the board and sail switch.

Maybe we lucked out since the furnace IS working this morning.

eubank · 03-03-2007, 11:04 AM

Ok, I think we have the makings of a nice bet here.

I SHOULD have bet on one last month! We had some of our crew of retiree skiing guests here at the park with a non-functional heater. From the symtoms, I said sail switch; others of the crowd said otherwise. They took the rig down to Albuquerque for repairs, and it was indeed the sail switch. (On the other hand, I struck out completely on a different rig last month, too, so my confidence was a bit shaken.)

So what about a bet anyway. I'll say it's the sail switch. Others can say something else. Whoever loses will send five bucks to Andy in support of the forums!

Lynn

crestonrv · 03-03-2007, 09:10 PM

i find interesting things with furnaces-mouse in squirrel cage,cat hair binding sail switch,vermin chewed wiring,blocked ducts(causes high limit to kick)found a snake skeleton once .anyway best way to fix furnace is to do annual service as recomended by manufacturer.i used to think it was a gimmy for serv.center but i have a customer (1 out of 3500+in my files) who does all his recomendeds every feb. and we have yet to see a problem with his appls.his coach is four yr old diesel pusher we have had other prblms but no appls. note he is on the road avg. 8 months a year.

lewster · 03-04-2007, 05:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by guy99

Lew,
My wife says that if everyone was as professional and competent as you, the world would be a better place.

The fellow who came to work on my furnace seemed like a nice enough guy but it seemed like he didn't really want to be working Friday afternoon. He must have told me five times that he wanted to avoid taking the furnace out. I asked about the sail switch and the igniter board but he said he hoped it was something else because he would have to remove the furnace to get to the board and sail switch.

Maybe we lucked out since the furnace IS working this morning.

Wow! You mean there are RV Techs who work 5 days a week and complain if they are working on a Friday afternoon???? I work 7 days a week, generally 12 hr days minimum, and if I'm done by 6 it's like half a day!!!!

(just thought you'd be interested in that)

.

DreamStreamr · 03-04-2007, 08:52 PM

Hi Lew!
Do you often see where factory installed the furnace too off-center so it crimped ducts on one side of the furnace? Wonder if this is unusual. Is it worth it to have dealer reinsert furnace to uncrimp the 1.5 inch and 3 inch ducts or should I just go ahead and do it myself to get it right? These two ducts (the small one goes back and down into the floor for tank & lines; the larger one goes for living room) are severely smashed against the cabinet side near the trailer entrance.

lewster · 03-05-2007, 05:33 AM

Hi Jim,

Furnace install instructions are VERY clear about required area of ducting. If you have a crimped duct, the result will probabaly become a heat overload situation at some point as there is not enough heated air exiting from the furnace. Every furnace has specific requirements.

TAKE IT BACK and have it re-done to spec!!!

Astrodokk · 03-17-2007, 10:32 PM

When I almost froze to death at the foot of Mt. Shasta, I had an RV tech check mine out and it was the igniter board too. I didn't even know there was one there! It also helps to bleed the pipes after refilling propane by lighting up the stove.

lewster · 03-18-2007, 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Astrodokk

When I almost froze to death at the foot of Mt. Shasta, I had an RV tech check mine out and it was the igniter board too. I didn't even know there was one there! It also helps to bleed the pipes after refilling propane by lighting up the stove.

When ever I remove a furnace for an overhaul or diagnostic work and then re-install it, It usually takes several tries for ignition even after the stove has run for a few minutes to bleed the air from the previously plugged furnace LP supply tube. Be patient when you re-install it to let the LP start a continual flow.

Philmag1 · 03-28-2007, 06:23 PM

great thread, I have a 1980 ExcellaII I recently purchased, this entire trailer has been neglected. I have evrything working now except the Suburban furnace. First off I had the cool air noisy fan problem. I pulled the unit and found yellow jackets have used this heater as a major construction site for their new city. I cleaned out as much as I could get to by removing the fans. I have a feeling the whole heat exchanger is plugged with these old nests. At this point I wonder if investing in a new heater would be wiser than trying to repair this old one?

lewster · 03-28-2007, 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Philmag1

great thread, I have a 1980 ExcellaII I recently purchased, this entire trailer has been neglected. I have evrything working now except the Suburban furnace. First off I had the cool air noisy fan problem. I pulled the unit and found yellow jackets have used this heater as a major construction site for their new city. I cleaned out as much as I could get to by removing the fans. I have a feeling the whole heat exchanger is plugged with these old nests. At this point I wonder if investing in a new heater would be wiser than trying to repair this old one?

Phil,

Unless you are prepared to TOTALLY disassemble the unit, it might be better for you to replace it. There is a certain feeling of pride annd satisfaction after having totaly re-built a component.

That said, LP components require a certain degree of safety in their operation and it might be better for your overall well being and peace of mind to replace the unit with a new one.

Weigh all of the factors before deciding.

RedSHED · 03-28-2007, 08:35 PM

We have an '85 Excella, 31ft. Our furnace is under the oven which is right next to the door in the "living room" area. The fan is a bit noisy but our real issue is we get only slightly warm air coming out of the vent that is only an inch or two from the furnace in the living area. The air from the vent in the rear bedroom area is warmer but not great. The outside furnace vent blows hot air.

Any ideas or suggestions? (Apologies if I have hijacked this thread. Seems to be the appropriate spot at the moment.)

Mrs RedSHED

Philmag1 · 04-06-2007, 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lewster

Phil,

Unless you are prepared to TOTALLY disassemble the unit, it might be better for you to replace it. There is a certain feeling of pride annd satisfaction after having totaly re-built a component.

That said, LP components require a certain degree of safety in their operation and it might be better for your overall well being and peace of mind to replace the unit with a new one.

Weigh all of the factors before deciding.

Lewster,

Thanks, I know I could get this thing running, I just think I won't be able to sleep knowing a 30 year old furnace is running! Might be best to spend the $500 dollars and sleep peacfully!

Phil

Philmag1 · 04-06-2007, 10:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RedSHED

We have an '85 Excella, 31ft. Our furnace is under the oven which is right next to the door in the "living room" area. The fan is a bit noisy but our real issue is we get only slightly warm air coming out of the vent that is only an inch or two from the furnace in the living area. The air from the vent in the rear bedroom area is warmer but not great. The outside furnace vent blows hot air.

Any ideas or suggestions? (Apologies if I have hijacked this thread. Seems to be the appropriate spot at the moment.)

Mrs RedSHED

Hi Mrs RedShed,

Have you had the furnace serviced lately? I was reading my service manual and it recommends you service these every year! Sounds like you could have blocked vents or intake obstruction. I would remove the unit and clean the area where the fans are or get it serviced before it gets worse.
Phil