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Old 12-11-2013, 04:04 PM   #1
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Stainless steel water fill doors...

to replace the late model plastic ones are now available by calling AS. Not on the website yet.

I ordered mine today, albeit sight unseen.
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Old 12-11-2013, 04:25 PM   #2
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So How much did it cost?

I have the furnace and water heater cover, might want to add this.

Paula
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Old 12-11-2013, 04:34 PM   #3
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Get ready.......$185!!!!
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Old 12-11-2013, 04:37 PM   #4
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Get ready.......$185!!!!
Holey Moley !
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Old 12-11-2013, 04:44 PM   #5
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Yeah, It should be here by Monday or so...maybe yet this week. I'll let you know how it looks. From description, it is pretty much a duplicate of the original with the 2 pipe fittings, screen for the vent, an inside cap and 2 gaskets??? Presumably one for the skin and one for the door.

If it is quality, I can see a lot of hand work and welding, so I guess the price is to be expected. I'd really like to have the SS wrap compartments, but I had just gone to the trouble to strip, sand and refinish my peeling and corroded ones before they came out.
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Old 01-01-2014, 10:23 PM   #6
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Hey Rich- how did the water fill work out? Can you post your review and pics? I'm in need of upgrading my old 1976, and have been waiting for this to be available. $185 bones for a fill door... whoa!

Thanks!
Micky
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Old 01-01-2014, 11:42 PM   #7
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Quote:
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Holey Moley !

I'll second that. Wow. I wouldn't mind replacing the plastic fill door, but at $185 I might have to think about that a little more.
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Old 01-02-2014, 11:27 AM   #8
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Hey Rich- how did the water fill work out? Can you post your review and pics? I'm in need of upgrading my old 1976, and have been waiting for this to be available. $185 bones for a fill door... whoa!

Thanks!
Micky
Hi Mickey,

I won't be installing the door until spring when I get the AS out of storage, but here are some pics. It is a well made, high quality piece with a gasket on both the door and for the skin/door frame interface.

Click image for larger version

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I did seal some areas which I felt could allow water behind the skin when I overfill the FW tank.

Click image for larger version

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I sealed the seam all around the perimeter, the hose neck, the vent neck and the two rivets which hold the anti-spin fill neck brace. I used Par-bond.
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Old 01-02-2014, 01:15 PM   #9
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Great! We have replaced the furnace, range exhaust and outdoor shower door. I have always disliked the plastic water fill door.
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Old 01-02-2014, 01:16 PM   #10
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Great! We have replaced the furnace, range exhaust and outdoor shower door. I have always disliked the plastic water fill door.
Also water heater.
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Old 03-24-2014, 09:18 AM   #11
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Has anyone actually installed this? We have had ours for awhile now but the weather has been too cold to do anything about it.
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Old 03-24-2014, 09:35 AM   #12
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Installed mine (and water heater door, furnace door, vent, outside shower door -- I've gone all SS), and it works fine. Bit of a hassle to install as I had to do some minor trimming on the panel so it'd fit correctly. Looks so much better.
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Old 03-24-2014, 09:53 AM   #13
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By trimming do you mean on the trailer? Did you run into any problems with the water hookup?
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Old 03-24-2014, 12:31 PM   #14
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I had to trim a bit of the panel on the trailer, wasn't a big deal. No problems at all with the water hookup. Used the trailer for about 10 days in January (FL), multiple hookup occasions. Zero issues.
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Old 03-25-2014, 08:50 AM   #15
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Just what I was looking for--but they look to be sold out directly from Airstream. Anyone know if they are available anyplace else?
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Old 03-25-2014, 09:05 AM   #16
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My stainless steel water door hatch came with a CH708 key instead of the ubiquitous CH751 key that all RVers have for water access. This lock mechanism can not be rekeyed due to it's construction (CHEAP).

In their infinite wisdom, the factory has installed a new lock mechanism for the 2014 models outside access hatches. They are all keyed to the CH751 key. Thus anyone can open the access hatch and push up on the mattress or cushion and gain access to the inside of the trailer. The dead bolt and lock on the door are bypassed.

I found a locksmith that could alter these new access hatch key tumblers, so I made them match a lock on the camper shell of the pickup. That makes for one less unique key to carry.

I imagine a screw driver given a big twist would break the lock anyway, but the honest folks are deterred.
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Old 03-25-2014, 11:25 AM   #17
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Thanks. I f I remember correctly, we had to do a bit of trimming when we replaced the outside shower.
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Old 03-25-2014, 11:33 AM   #18
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To get past the locks, they would just break a window. They don't like crawling through little access doors. The best theft protection is good insurance.

I don't care for my plastic water door access. Would my old lock mechanism fit the new stainless door?
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Old 03-25-2014, 01:58 PM   #19
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Sorry, it won't fit. (I thought about doing this myself, but the mechanism is a different size).
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Old 10-27-2014, 09:33 PM   #20
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Hi Mickey,

I won't be installing the door until spring when I get the AS out of storage, but here are some pics. It is a well made, high quality piece with a gasket on both the door and for the skin/door frame interface.

Attachment 202756

Attachment 202759

I did seal some areas which I felt could allow water behind the skin when I overfill the FW tank.

Attachment 202763

I sealed the seam all around the perimeter, the hose neck, the vent neck and the two rivets which hold the anti-spin fill neck brace. I used Par-bond.
Hey Rich- just going back through some posts and came across this one. Im about to the point where I "should" be doing my water fill....

Just wanted to check in to see how this went? Did you install and did it go ok? Any feedback to dimensions, issues, positives and negatives is appreciated.

Thanks!
Mic
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