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Old 06-08-2013, 08:04 PM   #21
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2013 30' Classic
Greenwood , Mississippi
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Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
I would bet that some of the paintless dent guys are adept at glue pulling. Basically, you apply little pull tabs to the skin with hot glue. I believe it is a greater adhesive glue than the craft glue at the hobby store. The pull tabs have a pedestal which engages into a slide hammer (which I don't use on aluminum) and a squeeze handle puller. as you squeeze the puller it lifts the tab away from the skin. I use a slight pump/bump technique to carefully, incrementally "tug" at the dent. LESS IS MORE! It is really easy to create a high spot instead of the dent that was there. Then you have to work the high spot with a wooden dowel and small delicate hammer. Think "jeweler" type work.

When the area is done, you use a release agent to pop off the tab with a provided plastic "chisel". Each dent takes several to many applications of tabs. Some of the tabs are large and some are small "point" type tabs.

PS: The large dent pictured above took some additional, and scarey, muscle work from the inside on the rib with a BIG hammer and a block of wood in order to get it to a point eligible for glue work. PO left that one for me. How he did it....I'll never know, as the corner protector was undamaged.
He could have possibly dented corner protector also and replaced it. My neighbor hit a deer with the corner of his trailer and replaced the stone guard only. The big dent is still there under the new protector.
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Old 06-08-2013, 08:10 PM   #22
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I thought of that, but all the sealer, rivets etc. looked OEM, done by the same hand, and identical to the other side. The suspicious part of me thinks it was done at the factory and hidden by the corner protector.
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Old 06-09-2013, 07:20 AM   #23
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That scenario is entirely possible...
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