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Old 07-19-2020, 06:41 PM   #21
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Destin , FL
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Thanks for the replies!

Thanks for everyone's input. I failed to mention in my write-up that I had thought about a sewer/drain connection in the garage (at least one of them) but part of what facilitated our ability to get the taller garage doors approved is the slope of the lot. The garage floor is well below the house slab and they have told me that I would have to install a grinder pump if I added any sewer/drain connections in the garages. Thus, as much as I would like to have added a sewer/drain connection, I will forego them due to the added cost/upkeep.

With respect to the utilizing the AS for company, due to the lack of a sewer/drain, we plan to use it for sleeping only (and only on very rare occasions) with the company using a bathroom inside the house. We do have windows in the garage which could be opened/cracked for ventilation but I don't plan on using propane while parked in the garage since it should never fall below freezing inside the garage. I will definitely look into a split mini ductless heat-pump to help keep the garages comfortable and help with the humidity issue. If necessary, I will also put a dehumidifier in the garage and/or AS to manage the humidity and potential for any mold....as well as keeping my steel topped woodworking equipment from rusting.

THANKS again for everyone's inputs!
Poppa
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Old 07-19-2020, 10:09 PM   #22
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One more thing I thought of just now:
Make sure the building contractor installs a good quality vapor barrier beneath the garage slab. This is required by code for living spaces, but not for a garage.

If there is no vapor barrier more water vapor will come up through the slab from the earth than will come through the walls from the air. I'll bet ground water level where you live in FL is similar to where I live in Highlands County FL during winter, only a few feet below the surface.

Use 6 mill polyethene minimum. I like Stego products, but their materials are $$$.
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