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03-04-2009, 07:42 PM
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#41
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2 Rivet Member
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Lawrenceville
, Georgia
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 63
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This is what I'm scared of happening on my FC. I am going to make a complete template on the inside before I go any further, then add the thickness of the channel. Canoestream did his this way. I agree there will probably be a bulge if you leave it like that. Is the rear diamonded? Try measuring from one corner to another in an X pattern. I do this all the time on cars or trucks to see if the front end has been swung over in a wreck. I sell tram guages for this exact pupose. If they are not the same I can think of only two options. One is move the shell until it matches from side to side . The other is (if it wont move) to recut the plywwod . Good luck and I hope you can figure it out. Come on Frank , give us the right answer!
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03-05-2009, 04:05 AM
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#42
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Restorations done right
Commercial Member
1962 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Vintage Kin Owner
Currently Looking...
Baltimore
, Maryland
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,545
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the bulge has de -bulged... now I now that is not the proper technical term, but that is what happened. As you released the tension of the belly skin from the shell, the shell relaxed. The shell needs to be pulled back into place with the belly skin. Kind of like this...
The trailer is a tube and some of it has been cut off. You might need to lift a little in the center and push some from the outside to get the shape back into place. no big deal, if I can do it so can you.
Also get all your floor in before you start tagging the channel or shell back down. Having the shell loose allows you to wiggle things around more. I also might suggest you put the rear floor section in last.
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03-05-2009, 05:01 AM
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#43
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Rivet Master
1954 25' Cruiser
Kyle
, The Republic of Texas
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 612
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander
I also might suggest you put the rear floor section in last.
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Frank - Can you tell us "why" install the rear floor section last? Thanks - Jim
__________________
I love that old time rock & roll.
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03-05-2009, 02:51 PM
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#44
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Restorations done right
Commercial Member
1962 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Vintage Kin Owner
Currently Looking...
Baltimore
, Maryland
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,545
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Getting all those layers at the wheel wells all oriented right is difficult. There is some putty strips and the inner and outer wheel well and then the plywood. Not necessarily in that order mind you. I just think it easier to not be trying to fight it in. Also the last piece can be pivoted off of one corner and slipped under the channel. I used wide putty knives to shoe horn it under. The belly needs to be off to get the shell to lift enough. Here is my blog entry on what I mean with pivoting.... Anna Lumanum: and then it was a floor The piece will literally go pop when it falls in. And you can see the same gap in the shell you were referring to seeing
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03-05-2009, 04:29 PM
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#45
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Augie R.
1960 22' Safari
carlsbad
, California
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 73
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Thanks Frank,
I see what you mean in your pics, but I'm not sure if mine will go in that smoothly becuase I have my channel mounted on my ply so I have a shape to go by but the wall studs to go under. I'm geeting some more wood tomorrow gonna try and measure big and cut down if needed. So I was wondering, I did read somewhere that the front and the back are the same ? right ?
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03-05-2009, 06:56 PM
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#46
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Rivet Master
1963 26' Overlander
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,640
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Not necessarily augier, I wouldn't count on it. I think it depends on the year, some are 4' in back and 3' in the front. And even if they are nominally the same, there's little chance they are indentical.
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03-24-2009, 10:04 PM
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#47
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Augie R.
1960 22' Safari
carlsbad
, California
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 73
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Still going at it....
Hey there folks,
batteries died on the camera so no pics up tonight but I'll have some pics up tomorrow. Well It's great to say the welding of the frame is finally done. First piece of plywood goes on tomorrow....Can't wait. The belly pans has been a challenge for me though. I can't seem to find good prices on it. So I'm left with the only option that I seem to have convinced myself will work.
My buddy that works at a metal shop found some .24 (I think that's right) very thin stuff but looks exactly like what was on there. 4'X9' sheets. He says he can weld the seem together so we can apply it as one whole sheet ....
Well I know it's not going to be easy to manage but sounds like a good idea
I will give it a shot and see what happens....
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03-24-2009, 10:42 PM
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#48
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Rivet Master
1962 22' Safari
2016 30' Classic
Southeast
, Michigan
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by augier
My buddy that works at a metal shop found some .24 (I think that's right) very thin stuff but looks exactly like what was on there. 4'X9' sheets. He says he can weld the seem together so we can apply it as one whole sheet ....
Well I know it's not going to be easy to manage but sounds like a good idea
I will give it a shot and see what happens....
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I'm not sure welding the belly pan seams is a good idea. I have never seen an Airstream that water did not find a way to leak into the belly pan area during a good rain. There are so many seams above the belly pan that water will find a way in one or another eventually.
A few unwelded seams gives that water a way out of the belly pan. You certainly don't want to make a tub that will hold any water that does leak in.
__________________
Joe
Wally Byam Caravan Club International Historian
Vintage Airstream Club Historian
WBCCI/VAC #702 & #6768
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03-26-2009, 12:40 AM
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#49
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Augie R.
1960 22' Safari
carlsbad
, California
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 73
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I forgot I started a family blog but I also did it so I could post pics of the AS feel free to stop by and check out some of the new pics.... augie.vox.com
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03-26-2009, 04:42 AM
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#50
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Rivet Master
1970 27' Overlander
Espanola
, Full Timer
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,753
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There's one product we have used in the oil field business to convert rust into a form of IRON overnite and it is called OSPHO, costs about 14 dollars a gallon...a greenish sulfur smelling liquid you can spray or brush on. We use it as a primer for awnry rust and would paint over it and it really works good. Sometimes Sherwin W has it.... and can be found on the internet. This stuff really stops the rust dead in its tracks. Don't freak out! In a book somewhere I read, "There is no such thing as a problem without a gift for you in its' hands." Good Luck
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03-29-2009, 02:44 AM
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#51
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Augie R.
1960 22' Safari
carlsbad
, California
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 73
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Well I can't tell you folks how excited I am The first two pieces went in no problem I think back on all the stress I brought on myself thinking I was crazy for doing this but it feels good now knowing the finish line is near Thank all of you for helping out Oh yeah Red I did have that Ospho I got it at home depot when I first started welding the metal and wanted something to prep it then I found out about....So thanks
Here are a few pics of what's going on, If you check in my blog I started you can see more of them ......
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03-29-2009, 04:16 AM
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#52
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Restorations done right
Commercial Member
1962 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Vintage Kin Owner
Currently Looking...
Baltimore
, Maryland
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,545
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can you give a link to said blog or is one here on the forums?
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03-29-2009, 09:42 AM
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#53
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Augie R.
1960 22' Safari
carlsbad
, California
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 73
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blog
sorry about that here yah go...... Augie’s blog - Vox
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04-11-2009, 03:22 PM
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#54
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Augie R.
1960 22' Safari
carlsbad
, California
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 73
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Thank You
Well guys
Thank You ......Thank You for all the help I'm finally on the road home. I will be posting some pics up on my blog since it holds more pics there check them when you get a chance.....
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04-11-2009, 04:03 PM
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#55
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Rivet Master
1967 22' Safari
1960 Caravel
Edmonds
, Washington
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,499
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Happy Trails!!
Good luck on your way home. Keep the shiny side up...
__________________
Lee
1973 F-250 4X4 390
1965 Chevy Suburban 454
AIR 6030
WBCCI 4258
TCT
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