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Old 01-19-2009, 10:21 AM   #21
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1963 26' Overlander
Austin , Texas
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Hey Augier, my frame was in slightly better condition than yours, but it wasn't great. I had a local welder replace the back three cross-members, and one outrigger. Looks like yours needs the same, and perhaps a few more outriggers. As noted by others, your main frame rails appear to be in decent shape, so I think your frame IS repairable.

You also need to figure out why the frame rusted and correct the causes, otherwise you are just treating symptoms which will return. The causes are obvious-- leaks. You need to find them.

Mine were a combination of roof leaks (all corrected before I acquired the trailer) and bathroom leaks. The water leaked in and around the outside and through the rear-bath floor, then got into the insulation and stayed there, rusting out the x-members.

Once you get the new steel in, you will need to prime with the etching primer that is made by the POR15 folks, called "Metal Ready." For the old steel all you need to do is wire-wheel and wire-brush the loose rust off. Then you can paint all of it together. Although I was very pleased with the POR15, keep in mind that there are other systems for frame painting as well, 62Overlander mentioned above the system he used, and he was very happy with it.

For more details on the repairs I made to mine, you can check my blog, linked in my signature below. You'll see that my frame did not look so different compared to yours.

Good luck!

-Marcus
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Old 01-19-2009, 10:23 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ganaraska View Post

This suggests to me that if you are going to do a complete frame off resto of an Airstream you should remove all the interior fittings then lift the fusilage off the frame as a complete unit WITHOUT removing the floor first.

Has anyone tried this.
The main problem I see with this is that in many cases where a complete frame-off resto is required, the floor is splinters at best, and often nothing more than sawdust. Mine was missing huge chunks, and the rest flaked off in your hands easily, so I don't think I could have done it this way. Well, that and the fact that I don't have the facilities for a shell-off restoration.
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Old 01-19-2009, 05:54 PM   #23
Augie R.
 
1960 22' Safari
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Well Folks,
Good news ,very good news .....the frame is fixable, the Channel for the walls is being made and the outriggers are being made as well...I have to pick them up tomorrow afternoon......As far as the frame We are gonna cut the last 3feet off on the left and 2 feet on the rght then use whats called afish mouth to lljoin the new to the old.......new bumper is required can't find an OG looking one so I'm going with two round pipes with a bent radius around the end of it......I'll be posting pics up as soon as I start the work.....

Just think good thoughts and they sometimes come true.....
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Old 01-23-2009, 08:20 PM   #24
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Getting started on welding

Hi there folks,
I have been working hard to figure of I can weld this on my own or have someone do it for me. I went to my busdy shop ( he builds motorcycles or choppers) he let me work with his welder on some scrap. I did what I knew he gave me some pointers then I got it right perfect welds I guess I did't forget after all well heres a pic of me welding the first of four crossmembers more pics coming some.....
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Old 01-24-2009, 03:00 AM   #25
Restorations done right
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See, it wasn't so bad... all that freaking out over nothing... now you have something to tell around the fire.
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Old 01-24-2009, 04:47 PM   #26
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I can't offer much, but to tell you about a rust converter/sealer I used in the oil patch called OSPHO...it's green, watery, smells like sulfer! Brush it on after you have wirebrushed alot of the big rust off...use a throw way brush or spray bottle and cover it all up and over night it will convert to a form of iron (over my head)...but it will have a hazed look to it the next day and you can then paint it with a good oil paint...pretty good stuff and about 14 or so dollars a gallon depending where you get it. But I swear by it.
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Old 01-24-2009, 07:58 PM   #27
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Good Job!

Nice job Augier. Keep up the good work and keep the pictures coming.
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Old 01-25-2009, 08:10 PM   #28
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welding almost done

Hi there folks,
I'm almost done with all the welding just a few more spots and I'm reday for paint then the floor ........
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Old 01-25-2009, 08:23 PM   #29
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Could not save the bumper......
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Old 01-25-2009, 08:33 PM   #30
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Looks like you are making some good progress. Are you going to add some plate to further strengthen that splice of the main frame rail? I'd be concerned about stress cracks down the road since that rail is so incredibly structure. Maybe some plate inside and outside bridging that joint a foot or so, kinda like the way the did the axle plate. Just a thought.
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Old 01-25-2009, 09:20 PM   #31
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So the welder at the shop that sold me the metal showed me this reinforcement plate he said its the strongest way to go, the blue is where it will be welded the reds is the size of the plate the two ends are not to be welded otherwise the frame has no strecth and will crack there.....I was thinking of excatly what you said but on top then I would have to do all over so the flooring would be even...thanks for the ideas though evryone has been great ....Just hope somedaw I repay the favor.....
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Old 02-04-2009, 08:43 AM   #32
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Finally back to work...

Hi there folks,
I didn't want you to think I gave up so I thought I'd pop in with an update since I had to go back to work for a few days and the weather was crappy now I can finally get back to work....

I have made my templates for the wood floors out of cardboard in the front and like I was told it did match the back end radius as well.. Cardboard seemed easier to use then the masonite template,not that masonite is bad I just thouught a hot glue gun would be less work for me

Also tested out a some of the new mothers polish I found looks good but I still can't figure out how to get those swril marks to go away.....

well enjoy the pics..
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Old 02-04-2009, 08:54 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by augier View Post
Hi there folks,
I didn't want you to think I gave up so I thought I'd pop in with an update since I had to go back to work for a few days and the weather was crappy now I can finally get back to work....

I have made my templates for the wood floors out of cardboard in the front and like I was told it did match the back end radius as well.. Cardboard seemed easier to use then the masonite template,not that masonite is bad I just thouught a hot glue gun would be less work for me

Also tested out a some of the new mothers polish I found looks good but I still can't figure out how to get those swril marks to go away.....

well enjoy the pics..
Don't worry about the polishing yet. You have plenty of other adventures ahead of you. I found that I got a little overwhelmed if I didn't stick with one or two tasks at a time. That was hard for me my wife says I ADD.

As far as "repaying the favor" go camping with us and share your restoration experience is all thats needed. Have fun.
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Old 02-04-2009, 09:14 AM   #34
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Quote:
how to get those swril marks to go away.....
Get yourself a cyclo polisher..~
It's the VERY last word in polishing..
53FC
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Old 02-04-2009, 09:16 AM   #35
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funny.....my sister is saying the same thing she wants it out of her driveway.....But I have to wait a little bit on the floor ($$$$) till friday you know what I mean but that sounds good I will defintlly be up for hitting the road and camping ......let see what I can do till then....
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Old 02-04-2009, 09:47 AM   #36
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Swirl marks are the result of coarse polish or dirt on the buffer. The normal polishing process requires polishing several times, each time with finer compound. This is the only way to get a mirror finish on dull aluminum.
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Old 02-04-2009, 09:53 AM   #37
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Nice work!


Quote:
Originally Posted by augier View Post
Hi there folks,
I'm almost done with all the welding just a few more spots and I'm reday for paint then the floor ........
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Old 02-04-2009, 10:00 AM   #38
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[quote=Augier;663231]I still can't figure out how to get those swril marks to go away.....quote]

There are lots of polishing methods. This site gives a good overview of one. Polishing
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Old 03-04-2009, 05:49 PM   #39
Augie R.
 
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Back to Work

Well Folks,
Im back to work on the floor frame is nearly done just stairs and tounge repair left.....I had to go work for a few weeks on the road and boy does it feel good to be back....

I started to work on the floor where I left off. I made a template from the front which was the only place there was plywood left. I placed the template in the back to see if they had the same radius. It looked good that day that I tried , but now .....I have a 2 1/2 " gap on each side..?

I pushed the floor template all the way back pushing the rear wall into the shape of my ply...

It seems to me when I go to cleco's all of it together I'm going to have a ripple in the side of my airstream...

I have included pics for you guys to look at.
Thanks
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Old 03-04-2009, 06:13 PM   #40
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Get this..Volkswagen Beetle Convertible tow vehicle~!!
The Only Known Airstream To Use A Magnesium Chassis~!!
that's appropriate to the magnesium block in the Beetles (actually, probably aluminum on that one, looks like a pre-65)
I was wondering about that pic in another thread- cool

Looking great!!
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