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2bkidfree · 06-08-2018, 05:14 PM

So, I've removed the shell and the bellypan. I'm about to remove the floor and any other items. What would you do, or would like to have done, to your frame?

This is a 59 flying cloud, 22'. I need a new coupler and am replacing the axle. I'm also fixing the step and adding support so I can add grey water tanks.

Any thoughts on things you would do while I'm at it?

Bubba mentioned adding some more floor support around the corner radius's.

Thanks,

markdoane · 06-08-2018, 05:24 PM

Inspect the front of the frame and the rear cross member carefully.

I had the front of the frame rebuilt by welding sleeves over the frame. there was a serious rust situation due to a leak from the water tank.

1959 Tradewind.

perryg114 · 06-08-2018, 06:05 PM

Well if you are going to add weight you need to beef up that frame. Taller C-channel or better yet box beams. How bad is it? You going to patch or replace?

Perry

Bubba L · 06-08-2018, 06:11 PM

Gilbert, another thing that may help in the future. The end of the outriggers have a tendency to poke through the banana wrap in time. You may want to consider spot welding a 4” piece of 14 or 16 gauge metal along the curve at the end of the outriggers. If galvanic corrosion is a concern, cover it with peel & stick. Good luck, Bubba

2bkidfree · 06-08-2018, 07:17 PM

Perry, so far it's not too bad but I still need to pressure wash wasp nests and years of rat stuff off. Once I get the floor off it's getting washed and I'll know more.

I'll definitely have to patch some spots and boxing some of it in sounds like a good idea. When I loosened the shell the back end dropped quite a bit. I absolutely want to strengthen the step supports.

Bubba, I'm hoping to do that to at least the ones towards the front and back. (where it's more likely to get hit.)

2bkidfree · 06-09-2018, 11:09 AM

I got the floor off and the frame is okay. I wasn't able to pressure wash it yet but I cleaned what I could.

Here's a pic of the left rear area which was the shower and toilet. Nice job of cutting most of the only outrigger that was there. No wonder why every time you stepped there it felt soft.

DavidsonOverlander · 06-09-2018, 11:23 AM

I added diagonal braces on each side of the step to stiffen it.

adobehome · 06-09-2018, 02:58 PM

This probably doesn't need to be stated. But, after repairs and improvements, paint it all with POR 51.

harryk · 06-09-2018, 03:25 PM

My personal thoughts after replacing partial rotted flooring..for the 2nd time & 2nd trailer....If I was doing a body off I would NOT use wood for the flooring. There are alternatives that will not ever rot. My Carolina Skiff fishing boat has no wood...built with Coosa Board.

2bkidfree · 06-09-2018, 03:51 PM

I'm probably putting coosa or something like it. I know it's ridiculously expensive but I don't want to be doing this job again any time soon. about 80% of the perimeter of the floor had delaminated plywood and it's probably been that way for a long long time.

Here is a pic of what most of the perimeter was like. This section was under the shower. As you would expect everything that was hidden was basically wood chips.

David, I like that diagonal brace. I'll probably do that.

I'm going to have to be patient on the sandblasting and painting. I want to make sure things are ready before I get ahead of myself.

DavidsonOverlander · 06-09-2018, 04:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by adobehome

This probably doesn't need to be stated. But, after repairs and improvements, paint it all with POR 51.

Is that 3.4 times better than POR 15?

adobehome · 06-10-2018, 12:30 PM

Went with Coosa, too. Although I fought hubby about the cost, at first, a little leak here or there is no big deal. Never to worry again.

Trons4u · 06-11-2018, 09:40 AM

Good luck with your restoration, looking forward to your updates. We just got the shell back on ours, so far it's been about 2yrs to this point

My frame was in remarkably good shape and I could of reused the original floor but I opted to update it because it had a couple areas that was peeling slightly and it is 56yrs old. I had it sandblasted and opted for 3/4" plywood and painted the edge and about 8" in with porch paint.
I do wish the frame was a inch or two thicker, 4in is pretty slim and limits your options for adding tanks, thanks to VTS for having tanks that will work in our frames. I added two 16gal tanks after modifying the crossmembers by removing one and repositioning another.

Just some food for thought when it's time for axle. My leaf springs originally were underslung below the axle. I wanted to raise it a little so I put the leafs on top of the new axle. I think it raised the floor about 6 or more inches and 22 1/2" of clearance below the belly pan, when we put the shell on last week I said oh man, she is tall. I may have to change it later and put the leafs back under the axle, we'll see. Here's a couple pictures.

guskmg · 06-11-2018, 11:50 AM

I would recommend Coosa Board. I recently bought a sheet and made a 2" toilet riser so I could plumb an urine drain into the black tank. I bought a partial sheet from a marine outfitter because I did not need a very big piece. If you by direct from Coosa I believe that would be the cheapest especially in large quanities.. It is absolutly water proof being made with plastic and fiberglass and it is much lighter than plywood. I would be careful what flooring you put on top of it. Laminte will buckle if it gets wet on the bottom side. That is hard and expensive to repair. My door leak caused a 6 hour job by an experienced installer. Do not put down anything that is subject to water damage.
guskmg

2bkidfree · 06-11-2018, 02:18 PM

Trons, that frame looks really nice. I'm surprised how well my frame held up considering the floor was a mess. There's some work to do though and I have to move things to get the tanks in. VTS is out of them for now so I have time to do some other projects around the house. With that height you never have to worry about inclines or rocks. Post any pics you have of the tank setup and drainage.

Guskmg, There's a distributor for Coosa in Los Angeles that isn't too far of a drive and they stock the 26 in 3/4". Not cheap but now that the floor is off and in sections it's falling apart just moving it. I hear people talking about routing it down to size but I can't figure out why. The way my U channel goes on top of the floor I don't see why thickness matters. When my trailer was built they laid the flooring on the plywood and then put the shell on top of that. I'll do the same thing. We will probably go with some linoleum type of floor.

Trons4u · 06-14-2018, 10:12 AM

Here is my drain system. I kind of modeled it after one that Colin Hyde did. Instead of P-Traps, I'm putting in a couple Hepvo valves. One in the back and one in the kitchen sink drain area.

2bkidfree · 06-16-2018, 10:54 AM

Okay, now you're just showing off. That looks really nice. I like the Hepvo valve idea. My old P traps were shot and I don't know if they make them like that any more. What is on the end of the outriggers?

When I first saw the picture I was a little confused. I couldn't tell which was the front. It was almost like those cars with two front ends. Is the back for a spare tire carrier or ??

Did you reinforce the frame much? Looks like there are more pieces than I have.

Trons4u · 06-18-2018, 08:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2bkidfree

Okay, now you're just showing off. That looks really nice. I like the Hepvo valve idea. My old P traps were shot and I don't know if they make them like that any more. What is on the end of the outriggers?

When I first saw the picture I was a little confused. I couldn't tell which was the front. It was almost like those cars with two front ends. Is the back for a spare tire carrier or ??

Did you reinforce the frame much? Looks like there are more pieces than I have.

Thanks. It took me quite a while to get the drain / tank stuff figured out, I couldn't find a whole lot in putting in a new gray tank system where none existed before. Figuring out where to put the holes in the tanks for venting and drain....etc

The outriggers have a rubber tape which is flashing that home builders put around door and window openings before putting the window in.

This trailer came with the spare tire carrier (and cover) and it's built like a tank.

I didn't add anymore to the frame as I'm not planning on adding much more than what was in originally, maybe a couple hundred pounds. These thing were way overbuilt / engineered. Not like today where they build things to be disposable.
One thing I would recommend as your working on the frame is to weld some plates in the front and back openings of the frame channel, right below the front and back floor. It will help to keep the critters out.

Tony

northfayston · 06-24-2018, 10:13 AM

I assume you are putting in tanks for gray and black? We didn't put a gray tank in the Globe Trotter we restored and now we wish we had. Still can, but just more work and money.

2bkidfree · 06-24-2018, 01:17 PM

I'm planning on adding 2 grey water tanks but at the moment they are giving me a headache. I have a side bath and kitchen sink and the drains were outside the frame rails.

I don't want to cut holes in the main rails and have to strengthen them. I'm thinking of having a new shower pan made that will put the drain on the far inside edge so the drain is inside the frame rail. I can probably plumb the sink so it's also on the inside of the frame rail.

I'm probably going to eliminate the bath sink and use the kitchen sink. That should help give the bath some more room.

Right now I'm trying to draw out how everything is going to plumb, vent and drain. It'd be nice to have it all worked out so I can have the welder make any adjustments necessary.