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Old 04-29-2013, 05:44 PM   #21
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1975 31' Sovereign
cary , North Carolina
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Originally Posted by goshawks00 View Post
And now we know why America is having a tough economic recovery.........
No politics in my thread please, I want to keep this clean of any of that.
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Old 04-29-2013, 09:10 PM   #22
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No politics in my thread please, I want to keep this clean of any of that.
No kidding.... As if I should have gone to Lowes to buy my china products.... come on now.
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Old 04-29-2013, 09:22 PM   #23
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Hi Shade,
Your axles will cost $495 each + $235 shipping to a commercial address in 28139 zip. The total will be $1225. The axles will come completely assembled & include 10" brakes, powder coated axle tubes, "safety lube" spindles (allows you to grease the bearings without removing the wheels), shock brackets welded in place, mounting bolts, lug nuts & an owners manual. Although 10" brakes are the Industry Standard for axles of your load rating, you can choose 12" brakes @ $595/axle. The total would go up to $1425. These axles will come with Henschen type mounting brackets, so drilling will not be necessary during installation. Lead time for the build should be 3-4 weeks & shipping should take several days. I use Monroe Gas Magnum shock #555003 for this application. They are available at most Auto Parts Stores for about $26 each. If you would like to place an order, please send a check to: Colin Hyde Trailer Restorations, 195 Jabez Allen Road, Peru NY 12972. If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to call.
Thanks,
Colin
(518) 578-7772
www.colinhydetrailerrestorations.com
The Vintage Airstream Podcast | Vintage Trailer Resotration (the Vintage Airstream Podcast)



now that's a hell of a deal , thought I should pass this along.
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Old 04-29-2013, 09:23 PM   #24
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You information is very helpful and I am about to do a shell off floor replacement and frame inspection as well as reinsulate. I am VERY NERVOUS about this next step. I have a 31' Sovereign. I have several questions for you if you don't mind.

1. What tools did you need to remove shell from the frame? Drill bits and center punch for the rivets under the rub rail. The bolts that go through the c-channel and through the outriggers are probably 3 inch long 1/4 20 and bent over on the inside from the factory install. They will need to be cut off with a grinder FROM CHINA VIA HARBOR FREIGHT
2. Do you have to remove the interior walls first? Yes- at least the bottom so you can see the c-channel, which is what the floor bolts through to the outriggers. What about the bellypan? Not necessarily if you're just going to lift the shell- you can remove them later.
3. How many people did it take to help you to actually move the shell? Just me!!! Simple with those hoists- just walking back and forth, front to back pulling the chain. I am wondering how many people I will need to help me.
4. What did you put the shell back onto while you work on frame? I lowered it to the ground and set it on 2x4s so it didnt crush the side wraps that go just below the c channel. Sawhorses?
5. Once you placed the shell back on your nicely restored frame, how did your secure it back down? Havent done it yet- still installing new wood sub floor. What exact tools, equipment do you need? You'll need some new bolts to bolt through the outriggers up through the c channel and rivets- lots of rivets. I'm going back with orignal bucked rivets- check out Vintage Trailer supply and you'll see the Buck Rivet selections. I've never worked with these before, so it ought to be fun. You need 2 people to do these- one to hold the "bucking bar", which is just a heavy piece of metal that smooshes the back side of the rivet. The other person operates the air rivet gun (WHICH I BOUGHT FROM CHINA via Harbor Freight with 25% off coupon for $75 bucks. I want to order everything I need and have it all ready so I don't have to keep making trips.

THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR ANY HELP!

Hope that helps!
Mic
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Old 04-29-2013, 09:27 PM   #25
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Bought mine from Colin too.... I remember when I thought they were going to be installed in January!!!! Almost there...

The shocks can be had for $22 ea on Amazon w free shipping. Do a search for Monroe 555003
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Old 04-29-2013, 10:02 PM   #26
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Well if it helps I used 2-4x12x16 ran them through existing holes in the body. I used just any scissor car jack I could find on saw horses. After the trailer part was removed I reinforced the shell to prevent it from being blown over or falling. A bunch of 1x4ís with deck screws work very well. I must admit it made me really nervous having that thing hanging in the air like that. But it worked well. I was able to pressure wash the inside with no problems. It also helped with re-aliening the shell when I put the thing back together. Good luck.
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Old 04-29-2013, 10:09 PM   #27
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Mixter, you said you didn't brace the interior at all correct?
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Old 04-29-2013, 10:12 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thisisliving View Post
Well if it helps I used 2-4x12x16 ran them through existing holes in the body. I used just any scissor car jack I could find on saw horses. After the trailer part was removed I reinforced the shell to prevent it from being blown over or falling. A bunch of 1x4ís with deck screws work very well. I must admit it made me really nervous having that thing hanging in the air like that. But it worked well. I was able to pressure wash the inside with no problems. It also helped with re-aliening the shell when I put the thing back together. Good luck.
All info helps me alot! I'm pretty much flying blind here, but all these posts are helping to give me an amazing idea on how to do this, thx so much guys and please keep the info coming.
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Old 04-29-2013, 11:04 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAStreamin View Post
You information is very helpful and I am about to do a shell off floor replacement and frame inspection as well as reinsulate. I am VERY NERVOUS about this next step. I have a 31' Sovereign. I have several questions for you if you don't mind.

1. What tools did you need to remove shell from the frame?
2. Do you have to remove the interior walls first? What about the bellypan?
3. How many people did it take to help you to actually move the shell? I am wondering how many people I will need to help me.
4. What did you put the shell back onto while you work on frame? Sawhorses?
5. Once you placed the shell back on your nicely restored frame, how did your secure it back down? What exact tools, equipment do you need? I want to order everything I need and have it all ready so I don't have to keep making trips.

THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR ANY HELP!
Bump
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Old 04-29-2013, 11:12 PM   #30
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Correct- I did not brace anything at the advice of Colin. I've lifted it twice now- its extremely rigid shell.
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:05 AM   #31
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Mixter, yes, you answered my questions very well. Thank you for taking the time to explain that. I also enjoyed the humor with it.
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Old 05-01-2013, 10:42 AM   #32
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Gantry detail

I've drawn up a Gantry according to MIXTER's dimension and lumber. I'll be building a pair in the next month to remove my shell.

thanks for the info MIXTER.

I want to add that I'm not an engineer or architect so make your adjustments accordingly and use at your own risk!
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Old 05-01-2013, 10:59 AM   #33
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now that's just awesome.
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Old 05-01-2013, 11:25 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by ehodg66 View Post
I've drawn up a Gantry according to MIXTER's dimension and lumber. I'll be building a pair in the next month to remove my shell.

thanks for the info MIXTER.

I want to add that I'm not an engineer or architect so make your adjustments accordingly and use at your own risk!
Can you post your drawing? Thanks!
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Old 05-01-2013, 11:30 AM   #35
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its attached as pdf
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Old 05-01-2013, 11:36 AM   #36
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its attached as pdf
Oh ok, I am on my iPad Forum app and the PDF is not showing up, I will get on the computer and it will probably show up there. Thanks
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Old 05-01-2013, 12:06 PM   #37
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GA, at the very start of the thread (iPad app) you will see the title of the thread in BLACK letters. No the blue ones. Tap on the black letters and it reloads as the computer version. And you can see the PDF there.
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Old 05-01-2013, 12:09 PM   #38
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GA, at the very start of the thread (iPad app) you will see the title of the thread in BLACK letters. No the blue ones. Tap on the black letters and it reloads as the computer version. And you can see the PDF there.
That is awesome! Got it to work and printed it! Thanks! My dad was so impressed with the plans!
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Old 05-01-2013, 03:27 PM   #39
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You guys are so awesome! I'll document my progress in video, including when we go to lift the shell.. Not having to brace the interior is a life and wallet saver! Again this is awesome!
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Old 05-01-2013, 04:15 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ehodg66 View Post
I've drawn up a Gantry according to MIXTER's dimension and lumber. I'll be building a pair in the next month to remove my shell.

thanks for the info MIXTER.

I want to add that I'm not an engineer or architect so make your adjustments accordingly and use at your own risk!
You plans are great! What program did you use?
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