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Old 06-17-2013, 07:46 PM   #61
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Mixter's Avatar
1976 27' Overlander
Tampa , Florida
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 796
Correct- I did not brace. There may have been some slight flex or rack, but nothing more than happens going down the road. The shell is very rigid. I think bracing it would just add unnecessary weight. I think the general fear is that the aluminum shell is going to collapse or buckle, but the dome shape is actually very strong. Think of a piece of paper. It is very weak as an 8.5" x 11" sheet. Roll it up into a tube, though, and it would hold quite a bit of weight. I've also read concerns about people concerned their door would never line up again... I just dont see that happening....

Here's a pic.
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Old 06-18-2013, 06:15 AM   #62
3 Rivet Member
1972 25' Tradewind
fort lauderdale , Florida
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 181
I was really worried about the racking and was doing a shell well as living in south florida, hurricane alley, so I opted for the bracing. I only used one by 6's and some angle bracing, so I don't think the additional lumber weight is that substantial.
Here's a pic while I was still removing the floor. There is a third brace (not shown in the pic) just forward of the door.
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Old 10-13-2013, 07:56 PM   #63
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1975 31' Sovereign
cary , North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 147
Just an update, I had real life issues come up and some issues with ordering custom outriggers, found a better place and I got half the outriggers already.

the frame i have needs the rear end repaired(bought a used frame from same year), if anyone has pictures specifically of the rear end so our welder can fabricate it as close as he can, then I'm all game. Any tips would be awesome as well.

it looks like the rear of this frame had some kinda water damage and started rusting, however everything forward minus the outriggers and some spots is still factory paint black. ill enclose pictures tomorrow.
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