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05-23-2017, 01:10 PM
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#1
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New Member
1989 29' Excella
Burbank
, California
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 1
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Bathroom floor repair in a 29 foot, '89 Excella
Hello all,
This is my first time on the Forum and I need some advice about a floor repair in our bathroom. Like I said, we're in a 29 ft, 89 Excella and I recently pulled out our toilet to track down a leak and I discovered the wood flooring under our toilet was in pretty bad shape. I'm quite a skilled carpenter and I understand the basics of how to go about repairing the floor, but what I'm concerned about is supporting the new piece of wood I need to install. Can anyone provide me with a blueprint for the support strut layout or direct me to where I can find one? I'm also open to suggestions if someone has found another solution.
Thanks,
Ben
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05-23-2017, 02:00 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1973 21' Globetrotter
Houston
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,322
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Welcome to the Forums.
The frame is pretty simple. You have the two main frame rails that run the length of the trailer. You can tell where they are because they protrude from the rear of the trailer and attach to the bumper. You will have a cross member running between the two frame rails that is directly under the rear wall of the trailer. Moving forward, you will have a cross member usually every two feet. You will be able to see where they are as you look at the subfloor because there will be a row of screws that attach the plywood to the cross members.
So, if you need to create a patch to replace a rotten section of floor, and it isn't large enough to be supported on all 4 sides by frame members, you will need to screw "doublers" to the underside of the existing plywood so that your patch sits in the hole and is supported by the doublers.
good luck!
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08-28-2017, 11:14 PM
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#3
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3 Rivet Member
Rockton
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 103
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Well said Belegedhel !
I will be taking your advice to my camper tomorrow.
What's the best way to cut out that last section of floor in the rear bath?
I hope I have some type of template when the old floor is removed. Just saying (:
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08-29-2017, 11:10 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1973 21' Globetrotter
Houston
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,322
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So do you mean, how do you make the curve of the floor matche the curve of the wall? Ideally, you would use the existing floor as a template, but usually that last sheet is rotted away. This leaves you having to create a template using cardboard or masonite. It is something of an iterative process, but take your time.
good luck!
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08-29-2017, 11:22 AM
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#5
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3 Rivet Member
Rockton
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 103
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Thanks on that. Someone said on the 69 Sovereign you can pull the last piece of flooring out the back by removing the banana wrap. Does that sound correct? My original question is how to I even get the last 4 feet of floor ing ready to come out. I know I got to pull the bottom inside skin off. Take the c Chanel bolts and screws off. But do I take a skill saw and cut the floor cross ways just short of the splice of the flooring next to it ?
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08-31-2017, 12:05 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1973 21' Globetrotter
Houston
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,322
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I would say that it is unlikely to slide right out the back. This is because the exterior skins usually extend ~3/4" below where they are riveted to the C-channel. You could cut it up using a circular saw set to the exact thickness of the wood, or safer still (but slower), use an oscillating tool to make the cuts. Lots of peoplw will split that last section of floor when replacing it by itself with the shell still on, to make it go in easier.
good luck!
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09-01-2017, 01:32 PM
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#7
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3 Rivet Member
Rockton
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Belegedhel
I would say that it is unlikely to slide right out the back. This is because the exterior skins usually extend ~3/4" below where they are riveted to the C-channel. You could cut it up using a circular saw set to the exact thickness of the wood, or safer still (but slower), use an oscillating tool to make the cuts. Lots of peoplw will split that last section of floor when replacing it by itself with the shell still on, to make it go in easier.
good luck!
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Thank you for your reply. That's most likely what ill do (2 pieces)
I'll still have to pull the banana wrap and some of the rear belly pan in the rear to get access. I'm sure Ill have issues with the black tank that been there all these years. I'll check the rear lights too for leakage the seems to be a running trend on Airstream's (:
God bless.
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