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Old 03-26-2013, 12:49 PM   #41
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1992 33' Land Yacht
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All the seams including at the back all looked good before applying Eturnabond. I applied Diecore around the base of those and don't think water is getting in. Maybe the box mounted to the roof which is in the center and I wouldn't think water would go there. This leak has been around a long time, the tops of the cabinets are rotted away.

Any thoughts?

By the way this is an older pic before replacing the skylite and 2 vents
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:19 PM   #42
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I'd be suspicious of the AC and any of the rail mounts.
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Old 03-27-2013, 11:20 AM   #43
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I look at the AC and there's no water coming from around it
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Old 03-27-2013, 11:53 AM   #44
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You may need to pull the shroud apart and look at the mounts and supports of the AC unit. Darn I hate it that you are going through this. But at least I'm not alone in the leak boat.
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Old 03-27-2013, 01:19 PM   #45
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I looked at the AC and it is not leaking l'm leaning to look at the box mounted on the roof. I normally wouldn't think it would be leaking since it is at the highest point but I've been wrong before.
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Old 03-27-2013, 04:54 PM   #46
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How is that box fastened to the roof? If it has never been removed I would check it out, your running out of places to look. Maybe it's covering a bad roof repair that's leaking.
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Old 03-27-2013, 07:05 PM   #47
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Gloran, I was checking out the pics of your beast. Very nice!!!
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Old 03-28-2013, 08:50 AM   #48
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Thank you! I was looking at your MH pic's too, other than the Tag axle pretty much the same. I just have a few more years head start on my Money Pit's improvements. Did you replace the front seats? They look new. I've enjoyed following your posts and improvements. 92Ly was right when He said when ever you get one project done, their always seems to be another one to do. Hope you get that roof problem figured out soon.
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Old 04-25-2013, 12:27 PM   #49
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Well I removed the box and so far there are no leaks YAAAY!!!!
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Old 04-25-2013, 02:34 PM   #50
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Oh good! (But has it rained?) I still have to do the vents etc on mine. They are covered for the time being due to LOTS of rain. I still have a window or awning rail leak.
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Old 04-25-2013, 05:36 PM   #51
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I don't understand why anyone would "wait for it to rain" to find leaks. Water is pretty easy to find. Use a hose and find your leaks when you have control over where the water goes. Seems to me that waiting for it to rain would just make it harder to find the area that's leaking since you have no control over where it's contacting the roof.
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Old 04-26-2013, 04:03 AM   #52
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I look at it as drying time for whatever sealer you are useing
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Old 04-26-2013, 05:32 AM   #53
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Wink

Plus....55mph in the rain tends bring to light any missed areas, but very hard to find.

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Old 04-26-2013, 06:44 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
Plus....55mph in the rain tends bring to light any missed areas, but very hard to find.

Bob
Ya, but it makes more sense to use a hose to narrow down where the leaks are coming from when the leaks happen when not driving.
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Old 04-26-2013, 07:09 AM   #55
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I would like to try the pressurized method described in other threads but I'm 100+ miles from anywhere that offers the service. So axles first...
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Old 04-28-2013, 03:25 PM   #56
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Well it still leaks in both rear cabinets on the rear corners. Any suggestions? Rear seam? top corners? This leak has been around a long time.
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Old 04-29-2013, 06:52 AM   #57
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Maybe the rear cap to body seal? Ladder mount at top? Port and Stb gutter rail? As a stretch check carefully the window seals as on my rig the rocket scientists at AS drilled on the cutout line for the window to insert the saw and as a result when the window moulding went in there was a space of abt 1/8 inch where water got in over time.

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Old 05-02-2013, 12:35 PM   #58
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Has anyone taken the seal across the top rear apart? What do you use to reseal it down?
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Old 05-03-2013, 01:43 PM   #59
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Checked the ladder mount, no leak. but I found one rivet so loose a new one will not hold it is the top rear street side curved aluminum. for now I filled it with Dicore ,cleaned the seam on the rear and a few inches forward on the top which looked like it had been wet before. I am going to dig above the cabinets since the wood ceiling of the cabinet is rotten and see what the rivet can grab onto, heck I may need to use a screw.
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Old 05-03-2013, 03:47 PM   #60
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One real common leak area for leaks is where the aluminum roof quarter rounds contacts the rear end cap. All along the end cap to roof seam as well. As you noticed, ANY loose rivets will allow water to come in too. If you have water in both rear cabinets, then I’d suspect an area around those corner seams.

My suggestion… Take it for what it’s worth… Tarp over the area above the rear end cap and forward to the rear AC. Tape it down and see if the area above the cabinets drys out. Once dry, take a hose and pressure saturate each corner one at a time and look for leaks inside over the next few hours. Any moisture is an indicator of a leak. Once you’ve narrowed it down to a small area you should be able to identify the source of the leak. You’ve been trying to “shot gun” this problem for weeks now. Break it down into smaller segments and you’ll locate the problem much quicker. In the mean time, look for ANY loose rivets, cracked seams or crakes in the fiberglass end cap. Don’t forget the seam that runs along each side of the rear of the coach connecting the side walls to the end cap. Especially where it meets the top quarter round.
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