Finally have our "new" 71 out of the shop parked in a place I can evaluate/work on her. Have to admit - already commited the mistake many of you have warned of - trying to plan too many jobs at once when I haven't even washed the mung off the interior walls yet.
1. The A/C works (yeah) - two thermostats one for furnace in bunk area - one for air in living area which doesn't seem to control anything - all control is at the A/C unit only...?
2. New battery but still have an "original" univolt converter. Seems the popular thing to do is install a "smart" converter. A/S owners manual says the univolt will charge the battery then shut down. Do I really need a new converter?
3. The material at the glass edge and frame appeared to be standard grey window glazing and is dried out in places. Ordered glazing in order to find grey. Now I not so sure thats what it actually is. Plan was to cut it out along the glass and replace it. Does anyone know if its glazing or maybe a rubber gasket.....
4. Prior owner installed a standard light switch in one of the bunks. Finally figured out that it actually cuts off all a.c. current to the trailer. Anyone have any idea why he would have done that.
4. Prior owner installed a standard light switch in one of the bunks. Finally figured out that it actually cuts off all a.c. current to the trailer. Anyone have any idea why he would have done that.
Thanks much......
A quick "blackout" for the when Air raid siren sounds?
Make sure it doesn't leak anywhere first; if it does-fix it asap.
Get the running gear up to snuf second
Then work about the inside.
Congrats on the new project.
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1964 Globetrotter | 2023 Nissan Armada
1. Yep A/C only. Mine cuts the compressor off when temp is reached.
2. My univolt seems to work fine. I have yet to have any problems with boiling or humming. (Well it hums when I have a lot of 12 volt stuff running)
3. The gray stuff may be Velcum or Parbond sealer.
4. Got me. I like air raid cut off.
BTW welcome aboard.
__________________
Tedd Ill
AIR#3788 TAC IL-10
No trailers...
1. The Armstrong AC unit on my 75 has no controls on the unit itself. It operates from the thermostat in the front area of the trailer. Perhaps your unit was replaced with a unit with built in controls and the thermostat was disconnected. If was left in place to cover the hole that would be left.
2. It depends. If you plan on leaving you trailer plugged into shore power for weeks at a time, yes. If you are like me and boondock most of the time and only plug in at home to recharge, no. If you leave it on shore power for extended periods, the battery most likely will boil. The old univolts were not multi stage.
4. I like the air raid blackout concept. I am going to guess that the PO installed a night switch to shut off the univolt at night to kill the hummmmmmming noise. I would be concerned if it really kills all the power and not just the power to the Univolt. If your frig was on ac, it would stop as well as the air conditioning. Also, most light switches are rated at 15 amps. If you are switching a 30 amp line, it is seriously overloaded.
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Richard Wally Byam Airstream Club 7513
4. Prior owner installed a standard light switch in one of the bunks. Finally figured out that it actually cuts off all a.c. current to the trailer. Anyone have any idea why he would have done that.
Thanks much......
PO of my '77 installed a switch in the bunk area and I found it turned off the external 110 v. plug receptacle the patio lights were plugged into.
__________________ Craig
AIR #0078
'01 2500hd ext. cab, 8.1 litre gas, 5 sp. Allison auto
3.73 rear end
Mag-Hytec rear diff cover
Amsoil Dual by-pass oil filtration system
Amsoil synthetics all around
265 watt AM Solar, Inc. system
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