2005 Classic 28'

[Devoman]

That exhaust fan sounds like it wants to take off on it own .I hate that thing.I am planning on fixing that by purchasing one of those quiet fans just like in you computer except a lot bigger.I am just working on the shelves right now though.If I try to do to many things at once I get carried away and bad things start to happen.like forgetting what I was doing in the first place.

[Pahaska]

We travel with our small (9#) bobtail cat. Like all cats, she loves to explore. She discovered that the slot between the bed and the bedside table leads to an opening into the under-bed storage. needless to say, I didn't appreciate digging her out of there when she wanted to stay.

I pulled the bedside cabinet out to make some modifications to it (see later posts) and I found that, for some obscure reason, Airstream had cut the plywood at the head of the bed to match the slope of the trailer wall, but had cut it about 6" short of the wall, leaving a nice, cat-size opening. This is also a good place for cold air from the storage compartment to leak into the bedroom.

I used some of the plywood left over from my cabinet modification to close the opening as shown in the photo.

[Pahaska]

I hate wasted space!

While looking at the water heater piping, I noticed that there was a big void area to the left, under the bedside cabinet. I noticed that the lower part of the bedside cabinet was partitioned off, about 3" deep.

Curiosity led me to temporarily remove the cabinet to better see what I could do. I found that the water heater and a vent pipe protruded into the space about 3 1/2". The rest of the space was usable, though full of dust.

I removed the partition across the front of the cabinet and used it to close up the "cat hole" (previous post). I then used some 1/4" plywood to build a new partition to close off the water heater and vent pipe.

The space gained is long and fairly narrow, but will be great storage for seldom-used items. The space gained is about equal to the usable space in an overhead cabinet.

The first photo is the unmodified cabinet. The second is the space with the cabinet removed. The third is the finished cabinet with the lid open. In an earlier post, I described how I hinged the cabinet top and put in bins for my socks and shorts.

[Pahaska]

David Tidmore at Roger Williams dealership in Weatherford has designed a stainless steel replacement for the ugly gray plastic stove vent. Mine arrived today and I had to run out to the trailer to test fit it. I'll go back Sunday with weatherstrip tape to finish the installation.

The plastic vent was attached with 10 screws and double-sided foam tape. A bit of careful prying took care of the tape.

I'm thinking seriously about firtting a Bowden cable so that I can open and close the vent from inside the trailer. I even have the cable hanging on the pegboard in my shop.

I'll have the old vent available for free on the swap table at the Texas Vintage Rally in February.

[sander17]

Originally Posted by Pahaska

David Tidmore at Roger Williams dealership in Weatherford has designed a stainless steel replacement for the ugly gray plastic stove vent. Mine arrived today and I had to run out to the trailer to test fit it. I'll go back Sunday with weatherstrip tape to finish the installation.

The plastic vent was attached with 10 screws and double-sided foam tape. A bit of careful prying took care of the tape.

I'm thinking seriously about firtting a Bowden cable so that I can open and close the vent from inside the trailer. I even have the cable hanging on the pegboard in my shop.

Hi John,
Would you post the details on the replacement vent? Price and contact info?
It really looks good. So much better than the "cheddar" style plastic ones.
Does it open automatically when the blower air starts pushing on it (like the
plastic one) or do you need to manually open it first? The old '79 vintage
one we had used a lever to open the vent and start the blower.

[Pahaska]

Would you post the details on the replacement vent? Price and contact info?

Not cheap! Cost me $97 with tax. It is nicely done, though and obviously takes signifigant time to construct. It really looks nice on the trailer.

The force of the fan will open the flapper. The weight of the flapper keeps it closed while underway without need to latch it like the plastic ones (David says that he tested it in windy conditions).

Davic Tidmore is the manager of the Airstream shop at Roger Williams Airstream in Weatherford, TX. The contact info should be available on the official Airstream site under dealers.

Just wanted to add that David Tidmore also has stainless steel water heater and furnace covers to replace the grey aluminum factory covers. I have them on my 07 25' Classic and they look great. John glad to hear the stove vents are now available.

[SilverToy]

John -

Please think about adding this to the 'best mod under $100' thread - who knows? Other might think a C-note is cheap for the improvement....

Axel

[Pahaska]

My keys, hanging on a rack that I put on the end of the galley cabinet, were slowly chipping away at the paint on the stove hood. I trimmed down a piece of 1/2" oak to make an overlay for the end of the hood. I may go a step further and inlay a pad in line with the key rack.

I have banged my head several times on the other end of the hood. I may just cut a similar piece of oak for that end. A nicely rounded piece of wood hurts less than the metal corner.

[SilverToy]

John -

I have a question about 3 of the overhead cabinet doors on my SilverToy. It has the Oak interior.

The 3 doors in question are 'spliting' along the grain. Not sure on a good approach for repair.... I really would hate to pull the whole thing apart for glue, nor would a metal bracket on the back look so good. Thoughts????

On cursory examination, the force needed to open/ overcome the little dampers must be contributing/ causing this. Might just get some magnetic holders to keep em closed, but then I have about 15 overhead doors that will all likely need this solution sooner or later.

Axel
SilverToy

[Pahaska]

Originally Posted by SilverToy

John -

The 3 doors in question are 'spliting' along the grain. Not sure on a good approach for repair.... I really would hate to pull the whole thing apart for glue, nor would a metal bracket on the back look so good. Thoughts????

Axel
SilverToy

I assume (dangerous) that it is either the top horizontal piece or the side piece of the cabinet frame that is splitting. I would consider using dowel pins to reinforce the splitting piece. You can either use premade dowel pins or cut your own from a length of haedwood dowel. Since the grain of the dowel is at right angles to the split, the result will be quite strong. Cut off the dowel flush and sand a bit and it will not be noticable.

I would drill the splitting piece 1/4" or 5/16", work as much carpenter's glue into the split as possible, insert glue and a dowel in the hole, and clamp the part. You may have to purchase a clamp with wide enough reach to span the door. If you have to span the width of the door, then you can use a pipe clamp. You purchase the two jaws and a piece of common iron pipe of sufficient length to span the width of the door.

[Pahaska]

Airstream motorhomes have a neat electronic box that feeds the microwave and water heater. When the microwave was not actively running, it received only enough current to keep the clock and control panel active. In the meantime, the water heater saw full current.

When the microwave was started, the control cut off current to the water heater until the microwave stopped. It worked pretty much like the old manual toggle switch with the additional benefit of not turning off the microwave completely.

For some reason, Airstream does not choose to put this box in trailers. Well I did, just today. Now, I don't have to worry about someon starting the microwave with the AC/heat pump running and blowing either internal or external breakers.

By remounting the breaker panel as low a possible and about an inch to the left, I was able to fit the switchover box in the waste space above the breaker box. It took me 3 hours this afternoon to dope out an approach and make the mod. Most of that time kneeling on the bed. A quick test indicates that the box works as advertised.

I now have one spare breaker since one circuit serves both appliances. I may add an outlet in the cabinet end over the bed for a better reading light

This is not a change for the faint hearted since it requires some knowledge of AC wiring

I didn't have my camera today, but I will post photos in the next several days.

[Fyrzowt]

I for one would be very interested in photos. Where did you purchase the switch?
Dave

[Pahaska]

Originally Posted by Fyrzowt

I for one would be very interested in photos. Where did you purchase the switch?
Dave

I bought it from our local Airstream dealer (Camper Clinic II in Buda, TX). About $70. It is an Airstream part in motorhomes; he discovered it and stocks a few pieces.

[norbert]

Originally Posted by Pahaska

It took me 3 hours this afternoon to dope out an approach and make the mod. Most of that time kneeling on the bed.

yes, and how much of that was knappy time....
norby

[Pahaska]

Originally Posted by norbert

yes, and how much of that was knappy time....
norby

Not a bit. Except for talking with my next door Airstream friend for 15 minutes, I worked by butt off all afternoon.

[Pahaska]

Here is a photo of my installation. The new box just wedges in above the breaker box and I put 2 long screws in through the ears on the new box to hold it in place. The white wire goes from the 20a breaker in the breaker box to the input of the new box. One yellow wire is to the water heater, the other to the microwave.

[SilverToy]

John -

Clear explanation of the latest mod, great photos, and the 'expected' terrific looking execution of the aforementioned.... but can you post the 'basic' wiring that you modified. I mean, I understand the 'premise' of what the "switch" does, but am unclear on how the box adds to the situation ie. does it maintain the 'clock' on the MW even if the AC is running? I guess my question goes to the basic - will this be an addition only when plugged in, or will it also benefit when boondocking? Maybe, I am not as clear on this mod as I think I am...?!

Thanks for any clarifications!

Thanks as usual John!

Axel
SilverToy

[Pahaska]

Originally Posted by SilverToy

John -

Clear explanation of the latest mod, great photos, and the 'expected' terrific looking execution of the aforementioned.... but can you post the 'basic' wiring that you modified. I mean, I understand the 'premise' of what the "switch" does, but am unclear on how the box adds to the situation ie. does it maintain the 'clock' on the MW even if the AC is running? I guess my question goes to the basic - will this be an addition only when plugged in, or will it also benefit when boondocking? Maybe, I am not as clear on this mod as I think I am...?!

Thanks for any clarifications!

Thanks as usual John!

Axel
SilverToy

First, an explanation of the problem. It's 100+ degrees, the AC is running steadily, the WH is on electric power, and my wife starts the microwave. POW!!! Either the breaker in the trailer or the breaker on the service box outside blows.

Now, add the switching box. The water heater is getting power and the microwave is getting just enough juice to keep the clock and the front panel operating. My wife starts the microwave and the switching box temporarily depowers the water heater and gives full power to the microwave. No breakers blow. When the microwave stops, full power goes back to the water heater and the microwave again gets just enough to keep the front panel operating.

The wiring change is simple. The leads to the water heater and microwave are disconnected in the breaker box and reconnected in the switching box. A short piece of #12 2+ground wire is connected from the 20a breaker just freed up in the breaker box to the switching box. Voila! You are done.

Obviously, the change does nothing unless you are connected to external AC power. If boondocking and using a generator, it would prevent overloading the generator, however, most folks when boondocking would not use the electric water heater when on a generator.

[Roadtoaster]

John, I saw your post on this the other day and asked my dealer to order one. As you originally said to GMORRIS (who is my dealer), this should be standard equipment because the circumstances you described will happen.

Thanks for the heads up.

Greg