Interstate Mods - I'll go First

[rvheliskier2]

I like this forum.

After reading this whole thread, I realized I have made many of the mods posted.

The "swing-out section" in the bathroom seems to be a novel design, but in my opinion does work well in real life. The extra 4" doesn't really add that much in interior space and it's design doesn't allow the toilet seat to be raised when closed. I modified my swing-out like Teamaron. I also added foam weather stripping to the gap.

When I was winterizing my Interstate last fall, I neglected to disconnect the supply line to the toilet. Thus some water was trapped in the toilet valve despite the fact, I blew the lines out with compressed air. When I dewinterized, I discovered the leak.

The swing-out being able to swing freely really made it easy to replace this valve. I still had to remove the toilet, but this is really easy.

When I showed my wife the mods I made to the swing-out, she replied, "Great! Opening and closing the swing-out was always a pain. We just have to make sure WE don't get 4" wider".

Another mod I made was adding the exhaust tip. It is surprising how much this adds the the look of the exterior. I didn't think about the generator exhaust. I've added it to my "want" list. Since I have so many "wants", it has a low priority. If I happen to see something, I'll buy it, otherwise funding will probably directed elsewhere.

Lastly, my favorite mod was moving the propane switch to inside the cabin. After a couple of cold early mornings kneeling outside to turn on the propane for the furnace, I knew I had to do something.

I found this mod in Yahoo Groups. Some one was kind enough to post a very detailed set of instructions on how to accomplish this. I am very grateful he did.

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by rvheliskier2

Lastly, my favorite mod was moving the propane switch to inside the cabin. After a couple of cold early mornings kneeling outside to turn on the propane for the furnace, I knew I had to do something.

I found this mod in Yahoo Groups. Some one was kind enough to post a very detailed set of instructions on how to accomplish this. I am very grateful he did.

Moved it inside, or added a second switch inside? Where I buy propane, the technician makes a point of verifying that the switch is off, outside by the fill fitting, before he will fill the tank. I asked him once about if I moved the switch inside, and he told me that state regulations require him to verify that the switch is off before he can fill the tank. I'd rather he do that outside than inside, so I left the switch where it is.

For my Interstate, the propane switch is off while stored or traveling, and switched on for the duration once I set up at the campground. Just before disconnecting my hookups, I switch off the propane again. I don't have to traise in and out every time I want to use a propane appliance, even though the switch is still outside. But that's just me…

[jquayle]

The yahoo thread poster 'moved' his switch, but I totally agree. Adding a second switch inline keeps it to code as well.

This is the modification that I wanted to do the most but still haven't gotten around to doing yet.

[rvheliskier2]

I just moved it inside, same as the Yahoo Poster. On hindsight, I would have rather just added a second switch.

Let me tell an earlier story regarding propane filling.

First time I had my tank refilled, the "kid" who was in the process of refilling; looked at the switch behind the rear wheels, then flicked on then off. At the time, I didn't think anything about it.

Then, guess what...my generator would no longer stay running. It would run and die out. It was a bad propane regulator. I later learn that the propane switch must always be "off", otherwise the pressure from refilling would damage the regulator.

[gdead]

So far I've only made a few mods to my 2013 IS EXT Lounge:

- Installed a wifi router with a Verizon 4g/3g modem in the area to the left of the front TV. It powers on as soon as the inverter is hot and boots in about 30 seconds. That way everyone in the IS has internet via wifi, and when it's 4G it's pretty darn fast

- Installed a Mac Mini as a fileserver for anyone onboard (we're documenting our trip and need lots of storage space for videos and pics). It's also running XBMC to the front TV to provide access to our movie collection. Using a RaspberryPi with RaspBMC to provide access to the video library through the rear screen.

- Removed the rear fold down "top" of the bed from the EXT section. Built a shelf to bolt on to the supports on the sides with bike quick release skewers mounted to the shelf. Managed to figure out a configuration to fit 3 bikes on the self, tho I have to take the pedals off of one of the bikes to make it happen. Under the shelf I can now store bike parts, tools, and a stand.

BTW: Our rig is being used as a support vehicle for a cross-country bicycle trip I'm going on. We're decking it out for that purpose, not necessarily for sleeping in or boondocking.

That's it for now.. tho I'm definitely getting idea for other mods based on this thread. These forums have been fantastic to ease the pain of being a newbie RV owner.

[jquayle]

Might consider and hdmi splitter (technically its a distribution amplifier, but they call it a splitter so the average buyer will know what it is). This will let you run both tvs at once from your macmini.

http://www.monoprice.com/mobile/Prod...goryId=1011306

They also make a 2x2 router. If you had another hdmi source, it would let you run either source to either tv, including running the same source to both.

[73shark]

Originally Posted by rvheliskier2

The "swing-out section" in the bathroom seems to be a novel design, but in my opinion does work well in real life. The extra 4" doesn't really add that much in interior space and it's design doesn't allow the toilet seat to be raised when closed. I modified my swing-out like Teamaron. I also added foam weather stripping to the gap.

Like others, I quickly tired of changing the position of the wall and mine did rattle when open even tho it was latched w/ the spring-loaded catches. I stuck a small piece of molding on it to tightly hold it in the open position.

When I was winterizing my Interstate last fall, I neglected to disconnect the supply line to the toilet. Thus some water was trapped in the toilet valve despite the fact, I blew the lines out with compressed air. When I dewinterized, I discovered the leak.

You can prevent all of that heartache by draining the fresh water tank and putting a couple of gallons of RV anti-freeze in and running it thru the system (w/ the HW tank bypassed of course. Then open low point drains. Then pump out the gray and black tanks and that will eliminate freezing in the pump and drain hose.

Another mod I made was adding the exhaust tip. It is surprising how much this adds the the look of the exterior. I didn't think about the generator exhaust. I've added it to my "want" list. Since I have so many "wants", it has a low priority. If I happen to see something, I'll buy it, otherwise funding will probably directed elsewhere.

Since I couldn't find a regular chrome/st-st small enuf for the generator exhaust, I bought a chromed brass lavatory sink drain pipe. So far it has lasted better than the Chinese chromed exhaust extension I put on the main exhaust. Going to replace it w/ a Magnaflow polished st-st one.

Lastly, my favorite mod was moving the propane switch to inside the cabin. After a couple of cold early mornings kneeling outside to turn on the propane for the furnace, I knew I had to do something.

I found this mod in Yahoo Groups. Some one was kind enough to post a very detailed set of instructions on how to accomplish this. I am very grateful he did.

I believe that fellow redid it and put the two switches in series so the outside switch will always turn it when filling no matter what position the inside switch is in. Plan to do that now that the weather seems to be warming up a little. (Just had snow here about a week ago. )

See red.

[gmillerok1]

Originally Posted by rvheliskier2

I like this forum.
Lastly, my favorite mod was moving the propane switch to inside the cabin. After a couple of cold early mornings kneeling outside to turn on the propane for the furnace, I knew I had to do something.

I found this mod in Yahoo Groups. Some one was kind enough to post a very detailed set of instructions on how to accomplish this. I am very grateful he did.

That someone was me, and yes, I did go back later and put the original switch back so both switches have to be "On" for the valve to open. You are welcome. I am glad you found the write-up useful.

I have pretty much modified, repaired, replaced, or inspected about everything Airstream installed in the chassis and have a good understanding of their components. Some of these were by necessity, some by curiosity, and some for no reason at all.

Gerald

[russ240]

Originally Posted by jquayle

Can you explain how you disconnected the step from retracting with the engine start? Does the step still retract automatically with the door closed?

I frequently load people with the engine running to cool things off and would love to have mine setup to allow the step to remain out. (Even if it beeps at me)

Sorry for the delayed response. My mechanic actually did this for me. He pulled a wire out of the step harness conector located behind the small storage bin located by the step. I pulled the six screws and slid the bin out to take a picture of the harness. I was disappointed to find that he had not marked which slot the wire came out of when he removed it. Perhaps you can compare the pics of mine to yours and determine which slot it came out of? You can see the wire he pulled out of the connector tucked back and wrapped in electrical tape.

[russ240]

Originally Posted by Teamaron

It was custom made and for $350 plus tax and shipping one can be yours too!!

Aron, long over due thanks for sourcing the teak matt for me! My wife and I love it. Keeps our dirty shoes off the white floor and dresses up the plastic bathroom!

[David M]

Russ, thank you so much for taking the time to pull the harness out for the picture. My coach is currently at the dealership getting some "new vehicle bugs" worked out, but I can't wait to get it back to pull that wire. I agree that it's a good idea to keep the buzzer intact. Thanks again!
David

[Teamaron]

Originally Posted by russ240

Aron, long over due thanks for sourcing the teak matt for me! My wife and I love it. Keeps our dirty shoes off the white floor and dresses up the plastic bathroom!

Im glad you like it!

We love ours and it smells great too.

[jquayle]

Russ,


Same here. Thank you for the pictures. I'll compare and let you know where it came from. Can't wait to finally get that disabled.

[roadmama]

Originally Posted by Teamaron

Im glad you like it!

We love ours and it smells great too.


Attachment 185423

Teamaron, where did you get this lovely teak mat? I agree with you that it looks much better than the plastic floor.

[Teamaron]

Originally Posted by roadmama

Teamaron, where did you get this lovely teak mat? I agree with you that it looks much better than the plastic floor.

I have them made.

Actually three of us on here have them already.

I can get you one if you'd like. $350 plus shipping.

[jquayle]

Originally Posted by russ240

Sorry for the delayed response. My mechanic actually did this for me. He pulled a wire out of the step harness conector located behind the small storage bin located by the step. I pulled the six screws and slid the bin out to take a picture of the harness. I was disappointed to find that he had not marked which slot the wire came out of when he removed it. Perhaps you can compare the pics of mine to yours and determine which slot it came out of? You can see the wire he pulled out of the connector tucked back and wrapped in electrical tape.

Embarrassingly, I don't have a screwdriver short enough to get those screws out as its blocked by the door.

I see a trip to Home Depot in my future today.

[russ240]

Originally Posted by jquayle

I don't have a screwdriver short enough

? I have to admit that I am a bit confused by that. Unless they have limited the door travel on the year newer models, the door should swing well clear of the area you need to access. You are only trying to remove the little recessed bin to the right of the step, right?

[jquayle]

Hmm. I thought it was behind the bin to the left of the step. The one with the bungie cords across it. Sounds like I was looking in the wrong place. I'll go have another look.

[russ240]

Whoops, yes I meant left. We are talking about the same bin. Remove the screws circled in yellow to remove the bin outlined in red. If the door does not slide far enough back and is blocking access to the screws, you wont be able to slide the bin out either.

[jquayle]

Is this not where you were referring to?


Looks right based on your pictures