Goal Zero Yeti 1000 with Nomad 100 Solar generating kit

[dznf0g]

You are understanding correctly. I'll get some pics for you. Stay tuned....

Originally Posted by Rig Rat

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Could you share some photos of how you did the work around for the Zamp controller on your portable?

I currently use my 200 W Zamp portables to charge my house batteries through it’s controller by a direct connection to the battery terminals and I’d like to be able to also charge my goal zero with the Zamp!

If I understand your explanation correctly, you cut the wires coming out of the portable panels ahead of the controller and put connectors on both ends of the cut wires. This allows you to run a new wire directly from your solar panels to your trailers controller bypassing the Zamp one.
Can you also reconnect the wires from the Zamp solar panel to it’s attached controller?
Thanks!
Mark

[dznf0g]

Here is a pic of the modified Zamp panels.

The wires from the black combiner box were cut and Anderson connectors used.

The unmarked connector would be attached to the connector marked "panel" would be connected to use the Zamp unit as designed. This is in case I wanted to charge another camper, TV, boat, etc.

The unmarked connector would be connected to a long 6ga stranded marine cable and run to the AS, as indicated in the SIMPLIFIED schematic attached, bypassing the Zamp controller and utilizing the AS hard wired Victron 100/30 controller.

[SilverWind]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Attachment 350690

Attachment 350691

Here is a pic of the modified Zamp panels.

The wires from the black combiner box were cut and Anderson connectors used.

The unmarked connector would be attached to the connector marked "panel" would be connected to use the Zamp unit as designed. This is in case I wanted to charge another camper, TV, boat, etc.

The unmarked connector would be connected to a long 6ga stranded marine cable and run to the AS, as indicated in the SIMPLIFIED schematic attached, bypassing the Zamp controller and utilizing the AS hard wired Victron 100/30 controller.

Thanks for the info. I'm now better informed than the average Airstreamer. I may try your solution for the ZAMP for use with my 68 Caravel.

I've been using the Goal Zero Yeti Lithium 12V Car Charging Cable to charge my GZ400 Lithium in my RAM 2500.

I'd also like to charge the GZ in my other trailer, 2017 25FB when doing extended dry camping. I'd like to be able to power a CPAP machine without having to use the inverter. Is there any reason why the Car Charger wouldn't work if I installed a 12V port in the trailer? The 2017 is equipped with 12V USB ports only. Do you know if the USB port supply lines have enough capacity to charge the GZ 12V? I'm considering adding a 12V cigarette style port next to the USB port in the entertainment area.

I have 500 watts of roof solar so I assume that I'd have plenty of capacity to charge the GZ via my 6V AGMs.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by SilverWind

Thanks for the info. I'm now better informed than the average Airstreamer. I may try your solution for the ZAMP for use with my 68 Caravel.

I've been using the Goal Zero Yeti Lithium 12V Car Charging Cable to charge my GZ400 Lithium in my RAM 2500.

I'd also like to charge the GZ in my other trailer, 2017 25FB when doing extended dry camping. I'd like to be able to power a CPAP machine without having to use the inverter. Is there any reason why the Car Charger wouldn't work if I installed a 12V port in the trailer? The 2017 is equipped with 12V USB ports only. Do you know if the USB port supply lines have enough capacity to charge the GZ 12V? I'm considering adding a 12V cigarette style port next to the USB port in the entertainment area.

I have 500 watts of roof solar so I assume that I'd have plenty of capacity to charge the GZ via my 6V AGMs.

I don't know enough about the GZ to answer that question. I would be very suspicious that the AS "cigarette lighter" socket has as much amp capacity as an automobile port. Autos are typically 20A/12V. The wiring to my single 12V port in the 2007 AS has really small wires...like 14 or 16ga (been a long time since I've been into it). I only use it for device charging and occasionally an electric cooler which only draws 6A.

What is the spec GZ calls out for 12V charging? Nothing says you couldn't add a simple circuit from the batt or 12V buss bar. Just be sure the wire, new port, and fuse are sized for the GZ needs.

I'd bet your USB ports are only 5V and low amperage, so I doubt it.

[OTRA15]

Good points, Rich. Some of the older Goal Zero threads have considerable detail on 12-volt charging. These search results may lead to the relevant thread(s) but I am too busy right now to find the exact posts:

https://www.google.com/search?q=Goal...com&gws_rd=ssl

I seem to recall that the standard auto cigarette lighter outlet will work, and that GZ has their own proprietary charger to use in it, especially while driving long distances. Similar to the 12-volt coolers you mentioned, this would be OK for maintenance charging of both a GZ and a cooler IMO. Shore power would be a better source to "fill" a depleted GZ lithium battery IMO.

Our van tow vehicle has two 12-volt outlets in the front, and another in the back, on separate circuits, so that was our plan for long-distance chilling and charging.

Peter

[iaqstuff]

We purchased one of the first GZ1000 units from Costco for $899. We stayed with the original 1000 watt charger/converter in our 2013 AI and use the GZ1000 as an Aux unit for the wife's hair dryer, curling iron, etc.

It fits nicely under the lounge/bed (which stays down) against the wheel well and we've run an extension cord behind to the tip-out drawer above the microwave. We secured cord and receptacle with VHB tape as needed. Now she just tips the draw out and plugs in.

The GZ1000 is charged via a shore powered AI outlet or our solar panels. There's 350w on top and two 100w GZ suitcases. The suit cases are because I frequently park in the shade.

So, while we "run" on Battleborn lithium batteries, the GZ1000 is a good auxiliary unit for us. She's happy. I'm happy.

[OTRA15]

Great comment thanks!

Peter

[Rig Rat]

FWIW, GZ 1400 lithium power station and bolder 100 briefcase solar panels are 20% off at RE* thru tomorrow 9/2/19!

[Tronadora]

Just a note of precaution. If you have several GZ chargers and you lay them on the floor of your Interstate, letting them lie on top of each other, you may get this undesirable result...


I plan to mount them on their edge, separated from each other, taped to some non-combustible material. Fortunately this area is not very visible near a wheel well.

[billramp]

I think I would like to copy your set up. We never use blocking as the house batteries will not last the night. I have the GT 2015. How did you set up the refrigerator/freezer hookup? Thanks for any additional info

[Tronadora]

Billramp - I had upgraded the house batteries to Lifeline 6V 220Ah so we have 110Ah usable, which last one night, about 12-14 hours. I had my AS dealer install a second txfr switch and I plug the GZ output into this and the coach sees the GZ as a viable 110V shore power source. An alternative is to run a 110V extension cord out the side window and use an adapter to plug into the side of the coach.

For a year I suffered the energy waste of letting the the house batteries get charged while the Yeti was powering the coach. This drained the GZ too rapidly. Then I realized I could set my Magnum Charge Rate down to 0% so that the energy coming from the GZ would only power the coach and this works well especially if you keep the inverter OFF as much as you can. The inverter uses a good 25W or so, even without actually powering anything.

When I'm driving, or get plugged into shore power, the house batteries charge faster, at a higher rate than the Goal Zero. The house batteries would cost $650 to replace and they can take a good licking hundreds of times so I figure I'll use them and recharge them as often as I want (compare to the Goal Zero 3000 which is $3000, maybe less if I can replace the batteries only... if that day ever comes).

While boondocking, I let the house batteries get down to 60%, then I switch to the GZ. My Victron battery monitor says I'm still pulling about 25-40W somehow, hence the reason not to go all the way down to 50% on the coach batteries. I use the GZ until it gets down to 10%, if necessary.

With these methods you can easily go two nights, three nights if you are careful. You can squeeze a little more out of this scenario if you plug in the GZ and turn off your 12V switch at the door (easy to do during sleep hours). This will stop the phantom 25W loss from happening. Either way, any solar you get will dump watt-for-watt into the house batteries.

To avoid conversion losses, I never let the coach batteries charge the Yeti, and I never let the Yeti charge the house batteries.

[Tronadora]

Here's what I came up with to thermally isolate the Goal Zero volcanic charger bricks.

I cut a scrap of 1/4" thick floor tile and edged it with Gorilla tape for aesthetic reasons. I used VHB tape to let each brick stand up to get as much air ventilation as possible. To finish if off, I had a scrap of adhesive rubber and used it to provide a little non-skid action and this lifts the assembly off the floor about 1/8" for a little more protection. I will lay this back in the same spot as before, out of sight, and now with peace of mind.

[Alex AVI]

Originally Posted by Tronadora

Just a note of precaution. If you have several GZ chargers and you lay them on the floor of your Interstate, letting them lie on top of each other, you may get this undesirable result...


I plan to mount them on their edge, separated from each other, taped to some non-combustible material. Fortunately this area is not very visible near a wheel well.

TRONADORA - is it the heat of the chargers melting the floor & pigment? Or chemical reaction between charger material & floor material causing just a superficial color staining/transfer (i.e like when you leave certain plastics forever on top of cultured marble in the shower stall)?

[Tronadora]

Alex - Good question. The charger bricks are 100% like new on the outside... no deformation, original plastic texture, etc. And the scorched area on the floor does not wipe off even a little bit. It's toast... well, toasted.

[Rig Rat]

[QUOTE=Tronadora;2285978]

For a year I suffered the energy waste of letting the the house batteries get charged while the Yeti was powering the coach. This drained the GZ too rapidly. Then I realized I could set my Magnum Charge Rate down to 0% so that the energy coming from the GZ would only power the coach and this works well especially if you keep the inverter OFF as much as you can. The inverter uses a good 25W or so, even without actually powering anything.

************************************************** *******

Do you then change your Magnum Charge Rate back to 100% before driving, running the generator, or pluging in to shore power?

[Tronadora]

Rig Rat - Yes, I have to be diligent to remember and set the Charge Rate back up to 100%. I normally charge everything simultaneously that needs charging by driving and/or connecting to shore power (i.e., I may drive awhile, park and hook up).

I almost never run the generator.


Curious thing... my Victron BMV-712 battery monitor tells me that if I set the Charge Rate to 10%, 20% or 30%, it consistently puts in about 20% of the Power (~100W) that a 100% Charge Rate (~500W) would put in.

[Pahaska]

I had been waiting for Costco to advertise their pretty much yearly sale on the Goal Zero 1000. I happened to be at a rally when their ad popped up for the GZ 1000 plus the folding panel for $999. I had an order in immediately and it came the day before yesterday.

I ordered some accessories: the fast 120v charger, the car charger, and the MPPT solar charger. The last should get the maximum charge from the portable panel. The 120v fast charger did a fine job of bringing the GZ up to 98% fairly quickly. I'll use this charger to top off the GZ when I am on hookups or running the generator.

With the GZ panel, I have 400 watts of solar available to charge my batteries. The rooftop 300 watts goes through a separate MPPT controller to my coach batteries.

I'll be spending 5 nights without hookups at the balloon festival in ABQ next fall. By not using the freezer, I should have plenty of power using solar if the usual weather happens. Worst case, I have the generator or limited idling of the engine.