Goal Zero Yeti 1000 with Nomad 100 Solar generating kit

[Pez Vela]

I have a specific question for anyone using this product with their Interstate.

What has been your experience using your shore power cable (with the 20 amp plug) plugged into the Yeti hooked up to the Solar panels. No extra wiring or equipment needed.

[OTRA15]

You might also want to post your question on the following recent thread, as there are lots of experienced GZ users there:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f37/...um-196422.html

Chances are also good that they will notice this thread and reply here, as well.

Good luck,

Peter

PS -- FYI other GZ threads:

https://www.google.com/search?q=goal...com&gws_rd=ssl

GZ 1000: https://www.google.com/search?q=Goal...=airforums.com


FYI/FWIW

[Pez Vela]

Thanks Otra 15. I reviewed those threads and it does not answer my specific question.

[FlyFishinRVr]

I can only answer part of your question, which is the Yeti 1000 plugged into the shore power via the 20A plug, because I don't have the Nomad 100 panel. In short, it will power the coach....sorta. I say "sorta" because it wouldn't power the microwave correctly to even have the microwave control panel function correctly. Note I didn't try running the microwave, I was just looking at the display on it.


With roughly 90Ahr usable and keeping a bit under it's max 12.5A rating at 120v, you should be able to run the coach over night, provided you feel comfortable leaving the Yeti outside over night. Another forum member had an internal transfer switch installed to avoid leaving their expensive Yeti outside, and I think that's an awesome idea!


Realistically, the Nomad 100 should be able to replenish the Yeti over roughly 2 sunny days. It's max output is 8A, but you won't get that out of it over the course of a day (mainly due to changing sun angle), so figure on 2 days to recharge a fully discharged Yeti 1000.


According to the Nomad 100 and Yeti MPPT charge controller module specs, you can plug 2x Nomad 100's into the MPPT charge controller and double your charge rate into the Yeti to get it recharged over the course of 1 sunny day. Expensive, but doable.

[Tronadora]

Pez Vela -

You can charge into, and draw from, the Goal Zero simultaneously. I know this to be true because, while I don't have solar plugged into the GZ, I have at times neglected to disconnect the charging input cables while also drawing juice from it. tsk, tsk. Wasted energy, since any conversions to/from the Yeti suffer about 20% each direction (12V - 120V - 12V)

But your plan, of inputting "free" solar energy while also using the GZ to power your appliances, is totally legit. You can also input your portable solar while also charging with shore power. With shore power you max out at about 290 watts of input using four of their chargers. I think GZ told me you could add something like up to 300-ish watts of portable solar at the same time.

The GZ1000 will take about 3.5 hours to fully charge using 288W of input. And you probably already know that a 100W solar panel will average about 2/3 that level in real life.... Plus or minus depending on your latitude/season and the condition of the sky and angle of the panel. So 65 real watts x 6 hours of good sun per day = about 390Wh gained, maybe more.

I suggest you NOT use the GZ for charging your house batteries due to the double conversion penalties of 12V to 120V to 12V. The workaround is to plug the coach in to the GZ, but set the Magnum inverter/charger Charge Rate to Zero %. Then keep the Inverter Off to save about 25W or so... if you must have 120V for charging your laptop or whatever, either plug that straight into the GZ, or use the outlet behind the driver's seat... this one is live when shore power is connected, and your coach will see the GZ as shore power.

FlyFishnRVR - Hi Pete - an alternative to keeping the GZ outside is to run an extension cord outside through the rear side window, after removing the screen.



To avoid running a power cord in/out of your rig, you can add a second transfer switch (like I did at the local AS dealer) using this item: https://amzn.to/326OQOf

[SilverWind]

Goal Zero has the 1250 and 100 watt solar kit for $1250, Labor Day Sale.

I bought the GZ 400 Lithium model to supplement my 1968 Airstream Caravel's Optima 85ah 12v system. The 400 gives me USB charging capabilities, inverter etc.

Unfortunately current ZAMP solar panel models, even with Lithium controller support built in, are not compatible with the Goal Zero controller. So, we use the ZAMP 140 to replenish the Optima AGM only. The GZ 400 is charged in the truck via the 12v charger or at an RV park via AC.

BTW. Goal Zero's tech support is great.

[Alex AVI]

So jealous of all the talk from you folks on GZ1000 usage. But just a dream for now, until I free up more space/weight when I no longer regularly carry 5-6 people.

[coasttocoast]

I have a GZ 3000, the two included chargers, a Super Charger, and a HardKorr 200 watt portable panel. I’ve been experimenting over the past few weeks in Atlanta with the 3000 and the portable panel. I’m seeing as much as 130 watts out of the HardKorr going through the MPPT into the 3000. On a sunny day, it will provide some charging and raise the charge level by about 10 percent. If I were going to go somewhere and sit for days without shore power or a generator, then I would probably want 2 more panels. If you are driving during the day, then you can run the supercharger through the inverter in the coach and charge the GZ. If you buy the 1000, then get the MPPT controller and another panel. Currently in Atlanta, it’s an overcast day at 12:30 pm, and I’m getting about a 40-70 watt input.

I have plugged the coach into the 3000, and it will charge the coach batteries. It’s just a matter of electricity following the path of least resistance. You’ll see the output jump to about 600 watts on the GZ until the coach batteries reach the absorb/float stage. I keep my 3000 inside the coach behind the driver’s seat strapped to the floor, and I primarily run the fridge and freezer with it. The plug you see on the floor in front of the 3000 is the fridge and freezer which I combined into one plug. This frees up the other outlet for the fan for moving air at night. I also use the GZ for charging phones, etc. I made my own aluminum mounting system on top of the 3000 with some pieces that I got from Lowes. I used velcro to keep it attached which keeps the charging units in place and also dissipates heat. In 7000 miles of driving on a recent Canada trip, everything held steady.

Goal Zero batteries are not designed to get wet, too dusty or too hot which is why I opted to mount the 3000 inside the coach. I would like to figure out a way to take excess power from the 4 panels on the roof and use that to charge the 3000. As for the 3000’s performance, I would buy it again. It is really nice to be able to pull into a small town at 6pm and park the van. I push the 120 AC button on the 3000 and it starts to provide power for the fridge and freezer. I can go out and explore, take some pictures, drink wine, eat dinner, and not have to drive to a campground (the outside temperature at night is around 50-60 degrees, so no air conditioning is needed.) The coach batteries remain charged and are at 90-95 percent the next morning. On one day on the Canada trip, I did run the microwave for about a minute, but it put a drain on the 3000 by about 5 plus percent. I also ran my OXX Coffeebox with a similar drain. Mostly I just ran the coach generator for a few minutes if I wanted coffee.

I just walked outside and checked the readout on the 3000. It’s a little bit cloudy at the moment with a 24 watt input. The 3000 is now at 92 percent which is up by a percent over the last 45 minutes. If you’re going to rely solely on solar for charging, then get 3 panels. You also definitely want the MPPT as it optimizes the input and will allow more watts going in. You can see more photos on Instagram @coasttocoastphotoatl and on the web at www.coasttocoastphoto.com

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by coasttocoast

I have a GZ 3000 . . .
. . .

Have you checked out the various threads referenced in Post #2?

Originally Posted by OTRA15

. . .
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f37/...um-196422.html
. . .
https://www.google.com/search?q=goal...com&gws_rd=ssl
. . .

See also: [may be dupes?]

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f240...-a-177828.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f448...de-193642.html

We are planning on getting either the 1000 or 3000, so it is great to read up on what everyone is doing with them. Thanks for your input.

Good luck,

Peter

[lkm4321]

I have a GZ1400 and 1-100 watt portable GZ panel and another 150 watt portable panel. I know this may not be the most efficient way to use the GZ but I use my 20 amp adapter plugged into the 110 outlet of the GZ and into the front outlet of my AS. Gz stays locked up In the bed of the truck. Just have to make sure the fridge is turned to propane as it flips to electric one it senses 110, and a fridge will suck a lot of juice! Works great. When on the move I mount the 100 watt panel to the roof racks of my truck and charge the GZ as it rides in the back. When stationary can add the 150 watt panel as needed. I know I am charging the house batteries, but I also have a 100 watt panel on the roof of the AS that also charges them. In moderation, I can run the furnace or watch a movie in addition to lights, pump etc get 2 days out of the GZ if weather is bad. But at the end of those 2 days the house batteries are fully charged.

[Sport 16 STL]

Considering a solar generator. I have 2 90 watt Zamp solar panels with a Zamp plug on the frame of our sport 16. Can I charge a goal zero if I have the correct connection from the Zamp plug.

Also seeing some generators saying the batteries last for 500 cycles and others 1500. Both say lithium batteries, why the difference?
Thanks

[SilverWind]

Originally Posted by Sport 16 STL

Considering a solar generator. I have 2 90 watt Zamp solar panels with a Zamp plug on the frame of our sport 16. Can I charge a goal zero if I have the correct connection from the Zamp plug.

Also seeing some generators saying the batteries last for 500 cycles and others 1500. Both say lithium batteries, why the difference?
Thanks

The ZAMP controller conflicts with the Goal Zero controller. I wanted to use my ZAMP 140 but Goal Zero Tech Support says that I would need to disable the controller on the ZAMP panel and rewire the output in order to use with my Goal Zero 400 Lithium. I've opted out of that solution so that I could retail the ability to charge the Optima AGM in the Caravel.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by SilverWind

The ZAMP controller conflicts with the Goal Zero controller. I wanted to use my ZAMP 140 but Goal Zero Tech Support says that I would need to disable the controller on the ZAMP panel and rewire the output in order to use with my Goal Zero 400 Lithium. I've opted out of that solution so that I could retail the ability to charge the Optima AGM in the Caravel.

Ok, I dont see the difference with any other onboard controller. I have fixed panels with a victron controller hard wired. When I run my portable zamp panels in parallel, I m8st remove the zamp controller from the system. Simply cut wires and added connectors for a bypass. One can never have two controllers in the same system without some degree of issues.

[SilverWind]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Ok, I dont see the difference with any other onboard controller. I have fixed panels with a victron controller hard wired. When I run my portable zamp panels in parallel, I m8st remove the zamp controller from the system. Simply cut wires and added connectors for a bypass. One can never have two controllers in the same system without some degree of issues.

Maybe a good solution if you are electrical handy and confident, which may leave out your typical Airstreamer.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by SilverWind

Maybe a good solution if you are electrical handy and confident, which may leave out your typical Airstreamer.

But, that's why we have a forum. This should be pretty simple, with advice and previous threads covering just this kind of mod.

[Alex AVI]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

But, that's why we have a forum. This should be pretty simple, with advice and previous threads covering just this kind of mod.

DZNF0G - I agree with you. If anyone who has the acumen & wherewithal to buy a ZAMP & GOALZERO and ability to talk tech with ZAMP Tech Support is considered a typical Airstreamer, then I say it would be within the typical Airstreamer's ability to bypass that controller.

[turk123]

I carry 3 100W solar panels to charge my Goal Zero 1000 Yete. With GZ Mttp controller (optional $89) I can realize about 200 watts of input or 2/3s the output of the 300 Watt panels. This typically will charge the battery to full from the previous night's use.

Goal Zero has finally come out with their larger AC charger (back-ordered for 4 months!) that will put out 275 Watts using the optional Mttp controller module, and charge the GZ 1000 from 10% to 100% in 3 1/2 hours. That is 15 hours shorter than the AC charger that comes with it.

I have not powered the whole trailer with the 100, but the idea is intriguing! We have plugged our 32" TV into it once and the GZ said it could run for 19 hours! How fun is that!

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Alex AVI

DZNF0G - I agree with you. If anyone who has the acumen & wherewithal to buy a ZAMP & GOALZERO and ability to talk tech with ZAMP Tech Support is considered a typical Airstreamer, then I say it would be within the typical Airstreamer's ability to bypass that controller.

Do you need to bypass the Zamp or the Goal Zero controller? Does the Goal Zero have an input for solar raw output...ie, 17 - 24V?

[Sport 16 STL]

Is there a way to wire in a plug from the fixed panels before the controller to charge a goal zero?

Or has anyone added a 12 volt car charger plug to a sport 16. Which area would be the easiest. Maybe up by the radio?

[Rig Rat]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Ok, I dont see the difference with any other onboard controller. I have fixed panels with a victron controller hard wired. When I run my portable zamp panels in parallel, I m8st remove the zamp controller from the system. Simply cut wires and added connectors for a bypass. One can never have two controllers in the same system without some degree of issues.

***************************
Could you share some photos of how you did the work around for the Zamp controller on your portable?

I currently use my 200 W Zamp portables to charge my house batteries through it’s controller by a direct connection to the battery terminals and I’d like to be able to also charge my goal zero with the Zamp!

If I understand your explanation correctly, you cut the wires coming out of the portable panels ahead of the controller and put connectors on both ends of the cut wires. This allows you to run a new wire directly from your solar panels to your trailers controller bypassing the Zamp one.
Can you also reconnect the wires from the Zamp solar panel to it’s attached controller?
Thanks!
Mark