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Old 06-24-2015, 05:26 PM   #2161
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They said that sometimes when they pull the old ones off that the wires could break and be hard to fish out. They did seal the new ones, don't think u would want to take them
Back off, or I wouldn't. I'm not 100% sure but I think the wires were not cut


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Old 06-24-2015, 07:46 PM   #2162
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Thanks. Trying to visualize it. I guess if you turn the assembly the right way it might fit through the base. I will call JC tomorrow and discuss the issue with them. Maybe it's best for me to do the work myself and fix it right the first time, corrosion X and nyalic then new bases and caulk them. I am feeling a bit of wonder though. Why do I have to do this with a new AS?
Then I console myself or try to anyway. It's a cool trailer you know, work the bugs out......
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Old 06-24-2015, 10:03 PM   #2163
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That was my question as well. You pay $70k for a top of the line trailer that they know has issues with this corrosion and yet they don't change up their manufacturing process to cure it? Anyone have any ideas why they don't correct this issue?
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Old 06-24-2015, 10:10 PM   #2164
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Well, maybe I'll be able to ask that question tomorrow.
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Old 06-25-2015, 08:19 AM   #2165
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Originally Posted by DoublTrouble View Post
Well, maybe I'll be able to ask that question tomorrow.
I doubt you will be happy with the answer, but please let us know what you hear.
Thanks!
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Old 06-25-2015, 09:09 AM   #2166
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The word from JC is sent some pics well see how we can help.
This is the filiform bible from Ohio. So far they are listening and seem to be willing to give some help.

Filiform corrosion is a natural process that occurs in aluminum. Although we try to combat the issue with a coated aluminum and we have had better success in recent years after switching to the coated aluminum, over time, some problem areas can arise. These are usually seen where the body panels flex during transit and where the clear coat has been chipped. Once the corrosion has started, there is no real way to completely remove it, other than to replace the affected panel. That being said, there are things you can do to combat the spread of the issue.

*

For treatment of corroded areas you should take the following steps (all the products mentioned below are available through our online store)

*

1.****** Remove the clear coat over the affected area. We recommend using a plastic scraper to prevent any damage to the aluminum.

2.****** Clean the affected area with denatured alcohol.

3.****** Using the product Corrosion-X (part # 90102W) applied to a soft cloth, wipe over the affected area, clean any excess off of the area.

4.****** Using the acrylic touch up pen (part # 90000W-03) go over the affected area to cover where the clear coat was removed. (for larger areas, you can also use a spray acrylic)

*

To prevent the issue in the future, Iíve attached an aluminum coating care guide that should help. We recommend washing the unit frequently and applying a protectant at least twice a year. You can use anything that is clear coat safe. You can also use the product T9 Boeshield (part # 90012W) on the seams and any other areas that may have an issue in the future. You just spray it on and it creates a protective layer on problem areas.

*

*

Exterior care:

http://www.walbernize.com/

https://store.airstream.com/product-...d-maintenance/

*

https://store.airstream.com/product-...sories/page/5/

*

Parts:

http://www.airstream.com/service/manuals/

http://airstreamsupply.com/

http://inlandrv.com/

*
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Old 06-25-2015, 09:48 AM   #2167
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You can expect corrosion on the rear aluminum brake light castings after around 6 months in FL.
Best recommendation is to live with it. If you grind it off it comes back.
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Old 06-25-2015, 10:30 AM   #2168
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Thanks, we know, a fix is in this thread. I can "deal" with that. The skin is my main concern ....
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Old 06-25-2015, 05:50 PM   #2169
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Kingsmen,
Somewhere in here are pictures of the tail lights that were sanded , polished and re clear coated. Robert Crosse and Howard L. are incredibly in touch maybe intimate is a better adjective, with this topic. I will personally call them the "gurus" of all things, leave it at that. I think you'll find a step by step in this thread, I tried to find it for you but I'm a little worn at this point.
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Old 07-01-2015, 05:02 PM   #2170
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Kingsmen,
You will find some discussion here around post # 1089, 1114, 1141 to begin.
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Old 07-02-2015, 05:42 AM   #2171
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An interesting AOPA article about aluminum and coastal states.

http://www.aopa.org/Pilot-Resources/...raft-Corrosion
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Old 07-08-2015, 03:23 PM   #2172
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I've got a similar problem with a 2001 Safari. I sanded the spots with 800 grit, carefully cleaned the spots with paint thinner or acetone. I found that using Tester's model silver paint and an artist brush did about the best.
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Old 07-08-2015, 03:27 PM   #2173
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I wonder if Jackson Center has ever considered using a low voltage sacrifial cathode.
If the Navy and Air Force uses something like that then why can't Jackson Center?
OK you techies, what are your thoughts? Any ideas?
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Old 07-08-2015, 04:03 PM   #2174
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I wonder if Jackson Center has ever considered using a low voltage sacrifial cathode.
If the Navy and Air Force uses something like that then why can't Jackson Center?
OK you techies, what are your thoughts? Any ideas?
It's not galvanic corrosion.

Filiform

Bob
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Old 07-08-2015, 06:43 PM   #2175
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One would think a very good clear coat, or several coats, would help stop the inevitable process.
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Old 07-09-2015, 08:23 AM   #2176
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One would think a very good clear coat, or several coats, would help stop the inevitable process.
It does, but see the quote below and the rest of Bob's link above about corrosion.

((Filiform corrosion is minimized by careful surface preparation prior to coating, by the use of coatings that are resistant to this form of corrosion (see above), and by careful inspection of coatings to insure that holidays, or holes, in the coating are minimized.))

Problem is that even though our Alcoa baked on clear coat stops oxidation and corrosion of the AL, it also provides a path for filiform if it is scratched, damaged or missing. That is why you follow owner and Johnson Ctr. ideas here to inspect your trailer regularly and stay ahead of the problem. In short, treat any small area found with corrosion x, then reseal with a touch up of clearcoat. I still also recommend a full touch up of all exposed aluminum panel edges with Clearcoat. (Especially important with a new trailer--edges and rivet holes are not coated since AS cutting, forming, and drilling are done after Alcoa clearcoating).
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Old 07-11-2015, 03:48 PM   #2177
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And move to the desert. Best preventative of all. Even here I have some corrosion on the taillights and door hinges, but after all this time, I don't much care (second solution). We've been so busy, we haven't washed or waxed it for 3 years and that may help cover over any further corrosion. There's always a simple solution or three to a problem, though the move to the desert may not be that simple.

Hi, Bob. I guess the snow's finally melted in western NY.

Gene
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Old 07-11-2015, 05:05 PM   #2178
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Thumbs up

Hi, Bob. I guess the snow's finally melted in western NY.

Gene

Yep....all gone.

Bob
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Old 07-11-2015, 05:29 PM   #2179
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Bob, did you go over the falls?

Bob Sunrus is going your way and I expect you both to post some photos of your meeting.

Gene
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Old 07-13-2015, 08:17 AM   #2180
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And move to the desert. Best preventative of all. Even here I have some corrosion on the taillights and door hinges, but after all this time, I don't much care (second solution). We've been so busy, we haven't washed or waxed it for 3 years and that may help cover over any further corrosion. There's always a simple solution or three to a problem, though the move to the desert may not be that simple.

Hi, Bob. I guess the snow's finally melted in western NY.

Gene
Hi, right now traveling and enjoying life is way more important than a pretty/perfect looking Airstream. Getting closer to Robert Cross's place; Now if we can park on his front lawn with full hookups for a week? Need good WIFI too. I hear he has a train collection too.
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