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sequoiacoast · 01-31-2007, 12:20 PM

Well I have no idea how these cabinet fronts are supposed to stay attached to the frame. My only guess is there was something... that is no longer present???

Help!! Here's some photos:

Lumatic · 01-31-2007, 01:03 PM

Those puppies are totally different than my 71 which has tambour doors on an aluminum frame. I would be interested to find out if they are original or built by a PO.

sequoiacoast · 01-31-2007, 02:46 PM

I'm pretty sure they're original; they were also the same on the front gaucho that I removed. They're cool because they slide back and stay out of the way. The only hardware that was attached to them was the roller/bumper type closure at the bootm. Other than that there's a plastic piece on the top, that may have broken and been the way it attaches?

emo59 · 01-31-2007, 03:00 PM

Our 68 Safari has a creased plastic-thingy there attached to another piece that slides back. I've heard of people replacing it with a strip of leather or a piano hinge. I'll try to take some good pics tonight (light permitting) while I'm packing for the Texas Vintage Rally. - Jill

emo59 · 01-31-2007, 06:20 PM

Sequoia - I took some pictures that I hope will help. I put them on my blog so that you can see big pictures without slowing down the loadtime of the forum pages.

Go here:

http://web.mac.com/emott1/iWeb/Site%...%20Fronts.html

hope this helps!

sequoiacoast · 01-31-2007, 07:18 PM

Thank you for the pics! That's exactly what's missing on mine

!!

So, I see the report/piano hinge deal... with the door front in the down position, am I also seeing more wood on the other side of the hinge? So if you took them out it wood be a door front, hinge, then another piece of wood?

emo59 · 01-31-2007, 09:43 PM

Yes, think of it like a knee joint. If the outside cabinet front is your lower leg, and your shin is the part you see when the drawer is closed, there is another piece (femur) attached on the other side of the hinge and it has some kind of stop on it, so the door won't slide completely out. The back piece is measured so that it's depth is just enough that the entire cabinet (including back piece of wood) is flush to the front when slid all the way in the top (as if the leg were completely straight.)

Does that make any sense at all? It's the only way I could think to describe it in words.

sequoiacoast · 02-01-2007, 08:51 AM

Yes, it makes perfect sense! And I don't think I could have figured it out without asking.. and without your explantion and pictures!

So thank you and I hope it helps others too! Have fun at the rally!!

pfefferd · 02-07-2007, 01:31 PM

You'll see at the top of the door is a stip of plastic, this is actually a hinge, a plastic hinge that breaks over time. On the other side was a piece of wood that acts as a guide and slides backwards when you lift up the door and slide it into the channel up above. I left the plastic pieces in place, bought some 3/4" wide aluminum piano hinges, painted them to match the color of the wood, and it works great. You need the wood sliders which "I think" are just a bit wider than the door itself. Regards

Motoman · 02-10-2007, 01:54 PM

I tried top soo the pohots and my browser said it couldn't find them. Are they still there?

sequoiacoast · 02-10-2007, 02:56 PM

I think they're gone- maybe emo59 will post them here? If not I can take a picture of the ones I have and my solution to the missing plastic hinge...

seabornj · 03-25-2007, 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sequoiacoast

I think they're gone- maybe emo59 will post them here? If not I can take a picture of the ones I have and my solution to the missing plastic hinge...

Please do, I have the same problem.

sequoiacoast · 03-25-2007, 08:41 PM

K- will do, in the AM!

sequoiacoast · 03-26-2007, 04:37 PM

I used a piano hinge and a piece of ply with a scrap block on the top of the rear-most ply to stop the front from being pulled all the way out. The bottom has a roller catch to keep the fronts closed.

Here's pics...