Tale of a '55 FC Whale Reno

[islandtrader]

If it looks good...then it must be good. Old carpenter saying...

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by islandtrader

If it looks good...then it must be good. Old carpenter saying...

Thanks Terry. I now have a new attitude. It looks good.

[Jeremy9107]

At the risk of sounding too simple or DIYer, could you use a spray can product like Surface Repair or Rust-Oleum has for refinishing sinks and tubs?? Used this on a home sink years ago and it came out good. Just have to sand out all the blemishes first.

[Bubba L]

Jeremy, the reason we tried the Por 15 was due to its durability. I just didn’t realize how difficult it was to apply and get it perfect. I kept trying the Por to use it up. I think we’ve accepted the current state of the sink and ready to move on to the next near impossible task. If we use the sink for a while and it doesn’t hold up, then we may go with your suggestion. Thanks

[Bubba L]

I have finished the curbside cabinetry, bed and night stand. The night stand houses the ac/dc distribution system and converter. The bulkhead next to it is the beginnings of the bath.


And I have some of the streetside framework done; enough to install the stove. We had the stove top and fan cover chromed. Originally there were aluminum sheets surrounding the stove, so I cut new ones. I had some EverShield ceramic coating for high heat to protect the finish of the aluminum, so I applied some here as a test. I also put some on the chimney in HOPES that I will never have to polish it again.


The curbside cabinet looks like a lot of storage; however, the fridge compressor (not completely installed yet) and ac ductwork do take space. It is worth it though, we are extremely happy with the operation of the heat. The main duct trunk line was made of scrap aluminum and covered with Prodex. It has not been warm enough to really test the AC yet, but a good stream of cold air does come out of the registers. We ordered the birch registers online and finished them ourselves. I've found a microwave to fit in the space over the fridge. I have yet to add adjustable shelving to the cabinetry.


Now working on the cabinet doors for the street side.

[MsRivet]

Finally time to catch up now that my extended work project is finished. I’m tagging along now. MrRivet keeps talking about your thread. Time for me to finally catch up with your Whale Tale!

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by MsRivet

Finally time to catch up now that my extended work project is finished. I’m tagging along now. MrRivet keeps talking about your thread. Time for me to finally catch up with your Whale Tale!

Thanks. A 1948 Liner is what I would really like to be working on.

[mimiandrews]

Gorgeous, as your work always is!

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by mimiandrews

Gorgeous, as your work always is!

Thanks for the compliment. I think taking your time is the key to making a decent product. With it 31 and sleeting this morning, heat in the 55 will make work today a bit more doable. Take care.

[islandtrader]

Originally Posted by Bubba L

Thanks. A 1948 Liner is what I would really like to be working on.

You are one sick person...

You need to go to A A Airstream Anonymous !

[Bubba L]

Terry, I go to Airstream Anonymous. But talking about it at those meetings just makes me want start another project.

[Joyflea]

Your work is outstanding . Would love to see it in person . Will be in FT in April for an antique MC meet . Hint Hint . Blue

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by Joyflea

Your work is outstanding . Would love to see it in person . Will be in FT in April for an antique MC meet . Hint Hint . Blue

Sure, drop by. We will be going to Inks Lake SP sometime in April for a trial run. I will PM you my contact info.

[steinVT]

Bubba, seeing what you have accomplished really inspires me to get outside and back to work on the Safari. Still way to cold to spray Zolatone and besides my trailer is buried in the back of my barn. I'll start working on it about the same time you are going on your trial run. I signed up for a TCT rally in September, so I do have a hard date.

Next winter we hope to do an extended trip thru the south and south west, so maybe we could stop by and take a look. You are doing gorgeous work.

Was getting the stove top re-chromed a big deal? I really need to do the same.

Mark

[Bubba L]

Mark,’having the stove top re-chromed was not a big deal. The guy we used knows his business. If the metal is too thin he won’t take a chance. We had a small group of items chromed at the same time. I don’t know the availability of people in your area that chrome. If your future travels finds you in central Texas, let me know.
Setting a completion date for the Safari gives you a realistic goal to work toward. We did that and hope it’s not too aggressive. Good luck on the weather.

[Jeremy9107]

Bubba. You’re kitchen looks sharp. Like the choice of stain and those old appliances.

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by Jeremy9107

Bubba. You’re kitchen looks sharp. Like the choice of stain and those old appliances.

Thanks Jeremy. We really didn’t use stain per say. Amber shellac, sanding sealer and a couple coats of clear shellac on Baltic birch. We still have the original piece of bulkhead adjacent to where the stove was. When I took the aluminum heat shields off to use as patterns, we saw the perfectly preserved area that was original. Luckily it is the same color and sheen as the amber shellac we have.

[Jeremy9107]

I like the natural look you accomplished and since I forgot to ask, glad you offered how you did it. Am getting ready to coat my cherry cabinets. Wanted to keep natural color and not have too much glossy shine. Might go similar as you minus the amber shellac. What is difference between shellac and polyurethane and what is sanding sealer?

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by Jeremy9107

I like the natural look you accomplished and since I forgot to ask, glad you offered how you did it. Am getting ready to coat my cherry cabinets. Wanted to keep natural color and not have too much glossy shine. Might go similar as you minus the amber shellac. What is difference between shellac and polyurethane and what is sanding sealer?

Jeremy, I think shellac brings out the depth and natural beauty of the wood grain. We used some amber to get close to the color of the cabinetry in 1955. When I finished building a piece, I sanded starting with 220, then 320, and finished with 400 grit sandpaper. Then to the finish table. My wife started with a coat of Zinnsser Amber. When dry, super lightly sanded with 400 or 600. Second coat of amber, same as the first. After second coat, apply Zinnsser Seal Coat, which is a sanding sealer. Following that with light sanding, apply two coats of Zinnsser Clear Shelac. It sounds like a lot, but it dries pretty quickly. I really like the almost iridescent depth of the birch grain. In your case, skip the amber and place clear. The number of coats will determine the sheen you want. If I were you, I would take a scrap piece and go through the whole process until you achieve the sheen and depth you want. She used a high quality synthetic brush and a pad in some cases. Look up “padding” shellac. Hope this helps.

[Jeremy9107]

Thanks for the tips. Did not realize finishing took so many steps. But if you want a good product I guess you have to put on the time. Yours came out great and I think I will follow your steps and hope for the same outcome