Tale of a '55 FC Whale Reno

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by Jeremy9107

Dig the progress. We used the same water and power inlets as you. Same locations too. Your work though is much better.

Thanks Jeremy. After we installed the Furion electrical inlet and the Marinco coax cable inlet with rivnuts, we decided to switch the location of the two. Luckily, the rivnut locations were identical on both brands. The reason for switching was the stability of the trailer skin in that area. The only structure is the ‘H’ bracing in the wall. Switching gave a better feel for the Furion and a heavy extension cord. Bubba

[islandtrader]

Originally Posted by Bubba L

At Aerowood's recommendations, I ordered his specified pop rivets from HansonRivet.com whose prices and service were exceptional; Grant was informative and bent over backwards to be helpful. This is also a great source to purchase a large variety of threaded inserts (nutserts/rivnuts). I find I am using them more and more for attachments to the skins because they're strong, made of aluminum and make the attachment easily removable. Here I used them to attach the shore power inlet, coax inlet and water inlet.

Bubba

What specific pop rivets are you talking about? And where did you use them?

[Bubba L]

Islandtrader, we used pop rivets for the inside skin. 5/32” x .063 - .125 dome head was used for the majority with a few 5/32” x .126 - .187 where there were multiple layers of skin/rib/stringer. Around the windows before the window trim at the edge and for the trim around the windows, we used 1/8” x .063 - .125. It all worked out well for length and looks. Good luck, Bubba

[islandtrader]

Originally Posted by Bubba L

Islandtrader, we used pop rivets for the inside skin. 5/32” x .063 - .125 dome head was used for the majority with a few 5/32” x .126 - .187 where there were multiple layers of skin/rib/stringer. Around the windows before the window trim at the edge and for the trim around the windows, we used 1/8” x .063 - .125. It all worked out well for length and looks. Good luck, Bubba

Thanks that really helps ...one more question...how many of each did you order. I am trying to get ahead of the curve, and order a few thing b4 I need them...

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by islandtrader

Thanks that really helps ...one more question...how many of each did you order. I am trying to get ahead of the curve, and order a few thing b4 I need them...

Terry, we ordered 1000 of the 1/8” and 1500 of the 5/32”. We probably around half of each, but they were cheap and they’ll be used somewhere at some time. The 1/8” went around the windows to hold the interior skin. Over that you will place the window trim and attach with 1/8”. The heads of the 1/8” rivets under the window trim were low profiled enough where they didn’t interfere with the trim. Good luck, Bubba

[Bubba L]

Since we were not sure how well the fridge and ac would operate in the spaces we have selected, I built a mock-up in the trailer where we can try them out. I will also be able to use the mock-up structures as patterns.

I cut the hole for the chimney stack and temporarily affixed it using rivnuts. This will serve as ventilation for the fridge compressor.


The fridge compressor is placed close to the vent stack in the back of a cabinet. Since this is just a test, it looks like a spaghetti bowl of wires and freon lines back there right now. Eventually, I will hide the compressor behind a divider to allow some storage in front.


I enclosed the mock-up to simulate the cabinetry to make sure the compressor would vent properly. Since this mock-up will also be used for the air conditioner test, I've drawn where the ac registers will be placed. You can also see where the ac compressor will be placed (adjacent to the exterior vent) at the bottom of the cabinet. But for now we're just testing the fridge.


The test is going well. We started by testing the AC and tomorrow we'll test DC. We were concerned that the freezer may not freeze, but it dropped to 28 degrees in 1.5 hrs and the fridge was at 40 degrees.

The mock-up did flush out some issues so even though it takes extra time, it saves in the long run.

I've started to fabricate ductwork for the ac; the ac will be the next challenge.

Bubba

[Bubba L]

I had two main goals for the air conditioner: 1) hide it and 2) make it quiet. A mini split would have been preferable, but was too big to hide. Here is my mock up for the air conditioner we bought. It's a 14K BTU Dometic Blizzard Turbo split system with the condenser/fan connected to the compressor/evaporator via flexible refrigerant lines that I have running behind the fridge. I fabricated a duct out of scrap 5052 aluminum to run from the compressor to 2 vents over the fridge.

The compressor will be under the bed and will have a return air grill.

The condenser takes fresh air from a vent next to the front door and exhausts hot air down through the belly pan.

We tested and refined the configuration and it works fine; unfortunately, we no longer have temps in the 90's to give it a really good test. The compressor is not as quiet as we had hoped (right now it is as noisy as our 1966's roof mounted ac), but I think I can dampen the noise sufficiently with sound batting, baffles and isolators. The ducts are sufficiently large that there is no constricted air type noises. In the final install, I will insulate the ducts.

The temporary bulkhead is held in place by F channel from VTS. To bend it in place I used the bulkhead and started the F channel on the bottom tapping and bending/contouring slowly as I followed the curve up the bulkhead. The F channel is designed for 1/4" thick plywood, but I want to use 3/8" plywood on the bulkhead because shelving is attached to it and I want it sturdy. I had to shave off a small amount on the edge to accommodate the thickness the F channel requires. I marked where I need to shave the wood and scored it with a razor knife. I then used a dovetail bit on a small handheld router to remove the wood to the score line.


Regarding the Zolatone paint for the inside, we have a Polomyx Airless sample selected that should show paint "spatters" more than the Zolatone Flex roll-on paint. This is the architectural Zolatone; not the automotive. We had hoped to rent an airless sprayer; however, the tip has to be unusually large to accommodate the little paint balls that create the spatter. We have also found that many places don't rent sprayers due to the difficulty keeping them clean and in running order. We're considering hiring a painter with the proper equipment, buying a used/refurbished sprayer unit if we can find one or buying a tip for a rental if we can find one. We need to resolve this soon because after a test of the HVAC in heat mode, we need to dimension then tear down the mock-up and prime/paint the skins.

More to follow..............
Bubba

[Bubba L]

Referencing the HVAC ducting, does anyone know the thinnest and most efficient duct wrap available? Thin due to limited space. Also, any experience in sound deadening for the airhandler?
Thanks, Bubba

[Jeremy9107]

Bubba. Like the cooling unit and location. Seems that it will not take up much space. Does that exhaust heat up the belly pan?

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by Jeremy9107

Bubba. Like the cooling unit and location. Seems that it will not take up much space. Does that exhaust heat up the belly pan?

Jeremy, it does not heat up the belly pan. There will be an aluminum sleeve through the floor sealing the sides of the hole. Also, there will be a 3/16” sliding aluminum panel that stays closed while traveling and opened when the AC is in use. The air exhausted by a split AC unit doesn’t seem to be as hot as a conventional system. Bubba

[Aerowood]

Does the AC unit require an additional blower to move the cool air up to the top vent?

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by Aerowood

Does the AC unit require an additional blower to move the cool air up to the top vent?

Kip, there is no additional fans or blowers to get the air up the duct and out the registers. We made sure the square inches of the duct slightly exceeded the air handler blower port. I think minimizing the 90 degree turns and using sweeps helps. I hope to balance the air with the registers. If not, I’ll install a damper. I think the challenge will be finding an effective sound attenuation design for the return air port. Hope you’re getting time off. Bubba

[steinVT]

Hey Bubba, finally went back and read your complete thread. Wish I would have found it a year ago. Would have done a few things differently.

Doing great work, looks fabulous. I can see how the panel replacement would become habit forming. Even just to skip the first step of the polish.

Regarding your Zolatone, we also picked out colors from the architectural pallet, but I have not been able to find a place to buy it. I was about ready to give up and go with a mix of the automotive.

Mark

[Bubba L]

Thanks Mark. We ordered our Zolatone from Koroseal Interior Products at 855-753-5474. We kinda worked backwards. We decided on the interior curtain, laminate, and flooring colors then picked the paint color. We paid the extra and had a custom color mixed since this is our last reno project (unless I find a 46) and the one we’ll travel in. We are going with Polomyx Airless. It’s not hard to find a painter with an airless meeting the Zolatone specs, but the large tip has been the challenge. We used the roll-on Zolatone Flex in the 66, but it didn’t show the spatters as much. Also went with Kilz Adhesion as the primer. We are scheduled to paint in a couple of weeks. Trying to finish the head locker rebuild so they can be shot also. Good luck and if you want to discuss, let me know. Bubba

[Bubba L]

We hired a painter to spray the Zolatone Polomyx Airless because most rental companies don't rent sprayers due to maintenance and the size tip needed for this paint was unusually large. We primed using Kilz Adhesion (water based) because it worked well with our other 1966 AS; however, this time we had permanent pen marks on the skin and the Kilz Adhesion let it bleed through. The painter had us cover the spots with an oil based primer spray (Zinsser Cover or Kilz Complete) which worked well. Although we had cleaned the skins with TSP and right before painting wiped the skins down with alcohol, some of the new aluminum had some impurity on the surface that did not bond with the primer, so we had to sand those spots down and hit them with oil based primer. We had a very experienced painter, but he still found the Polomyx Airless difficult to work with. I prefer the looks of the spattered Polomyx Airless, but for a DIY application, the roll on Zolatone Flex is more forgiving and gives a nice finish too.

[Atomic_13]

Lots of work but the results are stunning. Nice job.

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by Atomic_13

Lots of work but the results are stunning. Nice job.

Thanks Brian, it is a lot of work but it beats a rocking chair. We received our Marmoleum a couple of days ago. So, let the Zolatone cure for a few days, clean things up and lay the Marmoleum. Hopefully, once the flooring is in we’ll start seeing more progress. Bubba

[steinVT]

Looks great. Wish I could have gotten that far before the weather turned.

Did you get the Zoletone spatter you were looking for?

How did you deal with the upper cabinets? I see that they are installed in the last photo. Did you paint them after they were installed or paint separately, install and then touch up the rivet heads.

Mark

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by steinVT

Looks great. Wish I could have gotten that far before the weather turned.

Did you get the Zoletone spatter you were looking for?

How did you deal with the upper cabinets? I see that they are installed in the last photo. Did you paint them after they were installed or paint separately, install and then touch up the rivet heads.

Mark

Mark, we did get the color combination we were looking for. As soon as the Zolatone was sprayed, it looked way off from the control sample. When it dried, it lightened up and matched. We shot the headlockers outside of the AS then set in place with clecos. I don’t want to permanently install them now because they may get in the way. I need to figure out a touch up paint for the pop rivet heads. Since the Zolatone contains different colored paint balls that burst when sprayed, it’s no good for touch up right out of the can. The color can’t be matched st the paint store by the computer because it has multiple colors and the computer gets confused. I tried yesterday and found this out. I’ll figure something out. Thanks, Bubba

[Bubba L]

To convert the front dining area to a bed, I had considered using a telescoping pedestal to drop the table down to the bed level, but I was concerned about complaints about the sturdiness of the pedestals. My plan now is to build a typical gaucho style bed in the front by adding short slides to the front edge of the seats. When extended 3" they will support the dining table in the bed position. The table will attach under the front window using a VTS wall mount and there will be a folding leg to support the table in the dining position. To convert to the bed, the leg is retracted and the table removed from the wall mount and lowered to rest on the wooden slides at bed level.
Walter of Wabash slides were used extensively in our 1966 Safari to extend the gaucho seats into beds. The slide is a very sturdy wooden mechanism that is actually very easy to make out of 3 pieces of wood. You basically have two pieces of wood attached by and sliding over a center dowel. This is how I make them or you can buy them from VTS.

Cut two 1.5" x .75" pieces of hardwood to the desired length then a dovetail slot has to be made down the center of each piece. A dovetail router bit on a router table would be optimal, but since I don't have one I used a table saw to make the dovetail slots. To make the slots on a table saw, I positioned the blade as far as it would slant. I adjusted the fence and debt of the blade and ran the piece of wood through to create one side of the dovetail slot. Then flipped the piece around to cut the other side of the dovetail. Lastly, I re-positioned the blade to a straight cut, adjusted the debt and fence and cleaned out the center of the slot. I also used a wood chisel to smooth out the slot. The same method is used to create the center hourglass shaped dowel. The length of the center dowel is determined by how much you want the slide to extend. The shorter the dowel, the longer the extension. To assemble, slide the dovetailed pieces over the dowel and make sure they slide smoothly; you may have to use dry silicone or beeswax to get a really smooth slide. You have to add a stop at each dovetail end so that the dovetailed pieces don't slide off the dowel. For a temporary stop, I use screws as shown; however, for final assembly I will make the stop out of a piece of the dowel because the screw doesn't provide any support.