Winterizing With RV Antifreeze

[Ed Brownfield]

I want to run RV antifreeze through my water lines but I do not want to put the antifreeze into my fresh water tank. Instead I want to purchase a winterization kit. I have read that you simply need to disconnect the water input line going into the water pump and attach a piece of plastic tubing to the water pump and then run the other end of the plastic tube into a gallon of RV antifreeze and turn the pump on. Let the antifreeze circulate to every tap making sure to open both hot and cold. Can someone tell me what size plastic tubing to purchase and where I might find it? I am in Phoenix so this might not be necessary but I would rather be safe than sorry. Thanks

[amazingwoody]

Ed, just about any RV store will have the kit. I think I paid right around, $20 bucks. Mine is bronze. They'll have the hose right there too. They are wonderful and easy to use. You install on the "push" side of the pump. My water pump connections are quick connect and I like to disconnect when I'm done to be sure and drain the pump thoroughly, then reconnect. Any water left in pump can freeze and blow the pump if you're not careful. Ask me how I know this.............

[mandolindave]

I used to have to take the hose off of my fresh water tank outlet. I did some damage to the connector so i did the repair then installed ball valves, and hoses to add antifreeze. I have to use a funnel to prime the system but it works. I am thinking that I could have come up with a better design

[AlbertF]

You're right, you don't want RV antifreeze in the water tank - or the water heater for that matter.

The water heater should have a pair of bypass valves. (If not, you will need to buy a bypass kit from an RV dealer - a hose with threaded brass fittings and valves at either end.) Turn those to isolate the water heater from the rest of the water system, and you can then drain the tank by removing the plastic plug at the bottom (from the outside). The small amount of water remaining will freeze, but this won't hurt the tank because there is room for expansion.

The main water tank should be pumped or drained to empty.

You can buy a hand pump that will allow you pump RV antifreeze into the system via the city water connection.

However, you can also by a bypass valve kit for your water pump. This does two things - it isolates the main water tank from the plumbing system, and it allows you to attach the hose to draw antifreeze into the system. My trailer came with all this in place; winterizing the plumbing lines takes 2 or 3 minutes and about a gallon and a half of antifreeze. Yours may need more, depending on the total length of plumbing pipe.

Camping World or any RV store should be able to set you up with what you need.

[CRH]

I went to the hardware store and bought a 1/2" PEX fitting and about 3 ft. of clear tubing. I put the two together with a hose clamp. I took the inlet water line off of the water pump, put on my homemade hose and sucked the antifreeze in.

[ROBERT CROSS]

....snip....."Ed, just about any RV store will have the kit."

Maybe not in Phoenix.


IIWY....I'd drain & by-pass the HW tank, drain the FW tank, blow all the lines, add AF to the traps, put a little Crisco veggie oil in the toy-toy to keep the flapper seal subtle, and leave all faucets and drains open.



Works well here in WNY....think Buffalo.


Bob

[AlbertF]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

....snip....."Ed, just about any RV store will have the kit."

Maybe not in Phoenix.

That crossed my mind . . .

Maybe Ed will let us know!

[Ed Brownfield]

Thanks everyone for sharing your wisdom! I am going to Camping World to see if they have the winterization kits. It maybe a problem in Phoenix to find one; if it is I will order one online. It can freeze in Phx and I don't want to take the chance on damage to plumbing. I think that I have by passed the HWH (not sure). I have a 2015 28 ft. FC there was on one valve to turn and I turned it. If I am supposed to turn more than one valve would someone let me know?

[jczednick]

I bought a 1/2 female adapter and a piece of clear hose to fit it. placed at inlet side of pump and all worked perfect. First time doing this,,,,,

[Rokitman]

Ed,

Here's what I bought from Amazon, but I've also seem it at a Rural King, a Walmart Supercenter, and Menard's.

Camco 36543 Pump Converter Winterizing Kit

Came in 2 days. Took 15 minutes to install. Worked like a charm. Yes, the older 'streams had 3 valves to close on the WH, but the later models only have one. Do be careful to install the bypass valve correctly (DOH!). With the valve on the OPEN position, the valve handle should point toward the pump.

Rokitman

[kdickinson]

Agree with Robert - drain the water heater, close the by-pass on the water heater, blow out the pipes, pour antifreeze (RV antifreeze) into the drains and the head. Then my mechanic taught me this - run a little antifreeze through the water pump in order to displace any water that may be trapped in the inner workings of the pump - this may be a bit over the top for some but it will save your pump so it runs in the spring again. Leave everything wide open (faucets), don't forget the shower wand and the toilet spray tubes (just open them when you have the compressed air attached and also push the flush pedal on the head to clear it), and enjoy your winter.

[DeltaRon]

Great advice providing you have access to the water pump. My 2015 FC 28 Rear has the water pump totally inaccessible without removing the entire electrical panel under the refrig along with a furnace duct. For whatever reason, JC decided to hide it in the worse possible place. I had to pay a mobile RV repair guy to remove everything in order to put in a Winterization valve under the wardrobe where the water pump SHOULD BE!

[Tsmith.wp]

Originally Posted by Ed Brownfield

Thanks everyone for sharing your wisdom! I am going to Camping World to see if they have the winterization kits. It maybe a problem in Phoenix to find one; if it is I will order one online. It can freeze in Phx and I don't want to take the chance on damage to plumbing. I think that I have by passed the HWH (not sure). I have a 2015 28 ft. FC there was on one valve to turn and I turned it. If I am supposed to turn more than one valve would someone let me know?

I might be wrong on this for your particular unit, but generally there are three valves to open/close to bypass the hot water heater. Someone has posted a good drawing of it in the past, on several winterizing threads.

Once bypassed, be sure to fully drain the HWH.

[Doc Foster]

When I had my trailer in for some warranty work, I had the dealer install it for me. About $50 for labor and the kit, still cheaper than having the dealer perform the winterization even with the cost of the antifreeze.
Used it 2 weeks ago, works great and very easy. I used almost 2 gallons of RV antifreeze, probably more than I really needed, but I bought the 2 gallons and wanted to make sure it got everywhere. I also blew out the lines first with my compressor first - overkill for some, but it didn't take too much longer.

[dcasr]

I've winterized my trailers since 1971, except for 16 years in Orange County, CA, and I drain my lines, then blow them out with compressed air, then pump RV antifreeze thru the pump using clear tubing hooked to the supply side of the pump and pushed into the gallon jug. I buy the antifreeze at Walmart since it is cheaper for the same stuff. Yes I use a built in water heater by-pass.

I do put a little RV antifreeze in the FW tank with the drain open, just a little, until I see pink coming out the drain. In late winter when I head to FL I stop the first night below the freeze line and flush everything out, including the FW tank and close the drains.

A little antifreeze in the sink traps and lubricant for the potty, and its good. Don't forget to pump the antifreeze through the toilet flushing system so it is protected, and the shower as well. If I lived in Phoenix I would just keep a low level of heat on a thermostatically controlled electric heater, if possible, and skip winterizing unless heading up to Flagstaff.