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Old 04-22-2017, 12:00 PM   #1
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St Catharines , California
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refrigerator doesn't work on 110v

Hi everyone. Our brand new 2017 flying cloud 25fb was delivered two weeks ago. We have never cheked the refrigerator function since we got it. I tired run the refrigerator today with 110v hooked up. Then I found that the refrigerator didn't work when I set it in automatic mode. It worked in LP mode. I couldn't hear the sound from AC when it was in Auto mode. Outlet worked well when i checked it. Anything wrong? Or I missed anything?

Thank you.
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Old 04-22-2017, 03:05 PM   #2
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First thing I would do is check the breaker in the breaker box to see if it is tripped. From there, you just have to check to see where you lose power.
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Old 04-22-2017, 03:50 PM   #3
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Sound from the AC? You have confused me (actually, not all that difficult) -- an absorption refrigerator is generally silent.

When you turn it on "Auto" what are the indications?
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Old 04-22-2017, 09:54 PM   #4
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Did you give it time to cool? These ref take several hours or overnight to cool down to operating temps.

There should be a small light that moves from LP to Auto when the switch is pushed. If it's in auto it will operate off LP or AC depending on what is finds.

If AC is present (your trailer is hooked up to 120 volt external power) it will always go to AC vs LP. If in auto and AC is disconnected it will switch automatically to LP. In LP it will only operate off propane tanks.
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Old 04-23-2017, 11:35 AM   #5
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As far as I know they only work on 12 volt or gas??
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Old 04-23-2017, 11:47 AM   #6
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Check all your electfical cable connections into the trailer. If you don't twist it all the way you may not be getting 110 Volt. This happened to me a couple of times. As noted by others the fridge in auto mode will default to AC operation. Also try to push the AC button to see if it comes on.
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Old 04-23-2017, 11:49 AM   #7
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As far as I know they only work on 12 volt or gas??
The vast majority work on 120v or gas. A few work on 12v, 120v or gas.
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Old 04-23-2017, 03:29 PM   #8
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My frige makes no noise, the light says LP and auto.Whanpluged in it automatically goes to electric when the switch is in auto....
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Old 04-23-2017, 05:58 PM   #9
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The OP, as is often the case, seems to be gone...
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Old 04-23-2017, 06:00 PM   #10
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It is possible that one of the connections on the control board is loose or off. Try to get the cover off the control board or just wiggle things around a bit. My fridge wouldn't start on Propane after winter storage one year. It was just corrosion on the terminals ( 20+ year old unit)
Your fridge works by heating the chimney that has a gas coil inside. Either heat from the gas or an electric heating element warms the gas to make it circulate (I know that is pretty simplistic for some of us but you don't need to understand the Carnot Cycle to troubleshoot the fridge). If your element is heating, the chimney will be hot to touch . If not then the electric heater is not working.
As noted it can take up to 20 hours to see real cooling in the fridge.
If you are getting cooling on Gas the electric heater fix at least should be easy.
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Old 04-23-2017, 06:18 PM   #11
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Check to see if the refer's AC is plugged in to the 110v socket in the back of the refer. If it is the AES light should come on as well as the refer.
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Old 04-23-2017, 07:21 PM   #12
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Just thought of something...if he didn't turn the 12 volt on at the store / use switch it doesn't matter if he is plugged in to external shore 120 volt power.

The ref needs 12 volts to work the control board...on LP or 120 vac
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Old 04-23-2017, 08:26 PM   #13
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Update. It works well with no sound in 110v mode and does take very lonf tume to cool down. All I needed was patient. Thank everyone here.
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Old 04-23-2017, 09:16 PM   #14
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Just thought of something...if he didn't turn the 12 volt on at the store / use switch it doesn't matter if he is plugged in to external shore 120 volt power.

The ref needs 12 volts to work the control board...on LP or 120 vac
No. If he is plugged into shore power, the converter/charger supplies the 12v that is needed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Byshen View Post
Update. It works well with no sound in 110v mode and does take very lonf tume to cool down. All I needed was patient. Thank everyone here.
Glad you got it figured out. Welcome to the world of RVing.

I always turn on the RV fridge 24 hours before putting anything in it.
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Old 04-23-2017, 10:21 PM   #15
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Quote:
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No. If he is plugged into shore power, the converter/charger supplies the 12v that is needed.



Glad you got it figured out. Welcome to the world of RVing.

I always turn on the RV fridge 24 hours before putting anything in it.
Yea...your correct the 120vac will automatically switch on the 12 volt converter. I remember now that when plugged into shore power you cannot turn the 12 volts off at the store / use switch.

Glad it's working...here's hoping you and yours have many safe and enjoyable travels!
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Old 04-27-2017, 06:01 AM   #16
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Check your GFI Breaker. Its on the top row far right and has a white button.
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Old 04-27-2017, 11:34 AM   #17
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The OP solved his problem, see post #13
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Old 06-13-2017, 09:15 PM   #18
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When driving and using the propane to keep the fridge cool, do I need to run the refer fan?
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