Glad the carpeting came off OK. Could you provide any details such as solvents needed, techniques, etc.? Thanks.
No glue was used by OEM, so no scraping or solvents needed. Hundreds of staples were removed in a very time consuming process. Each seat took about three hours of staple-pulling!
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"Don't let perfect be the enemy of better."
Dinette seats are now being laminated and expect to have them back next week. I plan to sand and finish all the edges leaving them natural wood with a clear coat. I'll post pics.
BTW - With the location of the water heater and tank under the dinette, there is definitely room to convert the dinette to jackknife-type sofa or gaucho.
Just returned from a recent trip. Day 1, flipped on the stat to FURN, and as usual the fan came on immediately...20 seconds later still no click click and barrumph and the fan turned off Turned off the stat and tried gain and it worked as it should and continued to fire on/turn off per the temp set points. Day 2,3,4,5...same delio. Day 6 the same except that it would not fire with no click click and barrumph, regardless of # of on/offs attempted. Tried the reset toggle on the unit...no effect.
Flipped on the HP and all good, once I got the fan throttled back and could hear again. Day 7 & 8, just like day 6.
I pulled off the cover thinking spiders in the tube (as this unit was the odd man out with the flea collar for spiders treatment which seems to be working fine for the refer and WH) and remembered why I didn't have the flea collar there. Certainly a few dust bunnies from the dogs but no ignition tube in sight. Seems to be a sealed unit. Couldn't locate the manual but the install guide diagram seems to indicate it's well back behind the tin.
I had saved this link and tried Andrew Thomson's post #12
no perceptible drop in flame on the cook top so (presuming the tube is sealed and therefore no spiders) it's the board.
I didn't put a meter on the blue wires which I suspected being the leads to the ignitor as the HP was working and we were well into the wine tasting. I'll deal with this later. My 2 years is May 2017 so should be a warranty issue but thought I'd do a little digging/education pre dealer discussion
Anybody had a similar failed to light experience or was actually to locate and clean the tube?
Bob
Just an update on the furnace not firing. I pulled the cover and one screw from the cover. The circuit board is attached to the cover. Since I’m still under warranty I pulled the top of the board back enough to look inside and called it good. The light which is the error indictor was not apparent from my vantage point so I turned on the furnace at the stat, the blower started and in 30 seconds or so the blower stopped and I could see a flashing (red?) light at the bottom of the board (with the error code label just behind it). 1 flash every three seconds. (see video).
I hit the reset toggle and tried again, same result. 1 flash indicates “limit switch/airflow problems” Looking at the schematic, I located what I believe to be the LS (limit switch w/blue wires) and tested for community. It appears to pivot down. It’s a little tight and would probably have been easier with the board removed or lowered to a horizontal position and remove the connections to expose the tab. I believe I made contact which resulted in on “open circuit” indicated of limit switch failure.
I’m making an appointment at the dealer for repair and also to confirm the LS location and the testing process. Assuming the board pulls down horizontal, this could be an easy swap of the LS while on the road if needed.
p.s FWIW while I used a hex head screwdriver, it had its angle challenges for a good connection so I’ll be looking for my set of small box wrenches.
p.s.s video still processing, but you can see the (unlit) light with a round top in front the the error label in 9402
quick question for people who have switched to 16" wheels and the michelin tires. What tire pressure are you going with for your FC20? I believe the tires (load rating E) are rated up to 85PSI...
80 psi was really hard on the trailer so I adjusted to 72 which still gives me plenty of room on the load capacity of each tire. Not squirrley at all and a much better ride.
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"Don't let perfect be the enemy of better."
Thanks Darrell for the staple removing info.. At least you did not have to deal with old contact cement etc.. Looking forward to seeing the new look!
Good to see all the details, Bob, on the furnace circuit board and trouble light. Thanks. Hoping never to need the information!
cedonley, I saw that switz had given you a similar tire pressure [73-75 cold] on that other thread for your 16" setup. Please let us know what you end up using, as the loading of the trailer and TV could inform as well. We have considered the move to 16", but may try a new 15" tire first for economic reasons.
2014 16' Sport
2015 20' Flying Cloud
2021 25' Globetrotter
small city outside a big one
, south of most, north of some
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 364
Quote:
Originally Posted by TCwheels
80 psi was really hard on the trailer so I adjusted to 72 which still gives me plenty of room on the load capacity of each tire. Not squirrley at all and a much better ride.
I would think the difference between the 2 would be imperceptible? Anything above 65 is like riding on a rock. An old timer here PM'd me a while back when I was converting to the Mich/Sendel and said lowering it to less than the 80 was a waste of time. Have you had a ride back there to see? I am curious here not being a jerk. What proof is there it is "harder on the trailer" to the point where you accept less safety?
i really appreciate the feedback. Just reading thruvthe threads for a few months has convinced me of the safety of the 16s over the 15s. I got similar info of filling to the low 70s, but we will take the trailer to a weigh station and follow the psi to load rating conversion chart we were given on the other thread. I believe with our fc20, that the low 70s may still be a bit to much.. which is ok for load but would likely not be optimal for even tire wear.
Regardless, we will keep you updated once we get going on our trips here in May.
TC if you wouldn't mine, one more favor? Can you take a picture from the fwd dinette seat looking back to show maybe the FW and BW flush connections etc. This would be very handy s a reference point.
thx and much apreciated
bob
The best I could do!
It CAN be done from here with lots of gyrations!
__________________
"Don't let perfect be the enemy of better."
The best I could do!
. . .
It CAN be done from here with lots of gyrations!
Thanks, Darrell, are you looking rear-ward in each of the shots, with the shiny aluminum interior skin on the right, and the shower valve box just forward of the plastic vacuum breaker? If so, your set up is quite a bit different from ours, as our vacuum breaker is under the bath vanity counter, just behind the wall between the bath vanity and the rear dinette seat. [See photo in Post #1611 here.]
In your second-down left photo of Post #1604, our vacuum breaker would be where that yellow wire goes back over the plywood box at the top left corner of the shot, I think.
Here. . v
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Bob I think our set-ups are different, what do you think?
Darrell, outstanding and a huge thanks. I'm taking our TT in next week for the furnace work and a few other minor warranty fixes as we're approaching the end of our 2 years (5-28).
Peter, I'll remove the stainless cover next to the toilet and do some touchy-feeley. Seems I have a few images that were out of focus and inconclusive.
Thanks, Darrell, are you looking rear-ward in each of the shots, with the shiny aluminum interior skin on the right, and the shower valve box just forward of the plastic vacuum breaker? If so, your set up is quite a bit different from ours, as our vacuum breaker is under the bath vanity counter, just behind the wall between the bath vanity and the rear dinette seat. [See photo in Post #1611 here.]
In your second-down left photo of Post #1604, our vacuum breaker would be where that yellow wire goes back over the plywood box at the top left corner of the shot, I think.
Here. . v
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Bob I think our set-ups are different, what do you think?
Thanks,
Peter
Yes, Peter, you've described the orientation of the pics correctly. Interesting that they changed the location so significantly. Maybe to give easier access?
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"Don't let perfect be the enemy of better."
Thanks Darrell, if I had to guess I would say that our showers and toilets are different enough to warrant the relocation of the vacuum breaker. Thankfully ours is probably accessible by popping the rear dinette out for a look. Thanks to your lead on this, a fairly simple task, but with the new tow vehicle here at the dealer's, the VB swap will move down the list I guess!
Hope to be OTRA next week to get 1,000 miles on the new van before towing!
Thanks Darrell, if I had to guess I would say that our showers and toilets are different enough to warrant the relocation of the vacuum breaker. Thankfully ours is probably accessible by popping the rear dinette out for a look. Thanks to your lead on this, a fairly simple task, but with the new tow vehicle here at the dealer's, the VB swap will move down the list I guess!
Hope to be OTRA next week to get 1,000 miles on the new van before towing!
Happy Trails to all,
Peter
Woo Hoo... Time to start loading the TV/TT and picking the music
Laminated dinette! Pics are dry fit without access doors reinstalled. The laminate is "Asian Night" and is a dark grey wood grain, but looks black in these pics.
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"Don't let perfect be the enemy of better."
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