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Old 05-23-2016, 06:39 AM   #939
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Thanks, a different A/C I guess? I will look into manually adding water to the condensate pans today. Not sure about this. Will advise.

Would still like to run the unit full-tilt with the bottom cover off.

Peter
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Old 05-23-2016, 08:57 AM   #940
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Got a clamp on that drain hose, and found the drain at the wheel well, on the street-side above the front edge of the tire.

I don't see any way to get water into the A/C condensate pans, except to get on the roof maybe. No thanks. The two initial drain lines are above the interior skin of the trailer, and disappear left and right above the skin. Gonna get the compressor later.

Fun stuff . . .

Peter






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Old 05-23-2016, 10:56 AM   #941
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The hose clamp shot did not stick before. At the top right, the street-side horizontal drain hose from one of the condensate pans is visible coiming in from above the interior aluminum skin.

Now waiting fro delivery of an adapter to convert the generator's 120v 30A female twist outlet to a 30A female welder's outlet to match the trailer's OEM cord male end.

Peter

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Old 05-23-2016, 11:58 AM   #942
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Solar Panel Test

So....this weekend I tested my new solar panels out. It's a portable unit that stands on the ground and has adjustable legs. http://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-M...ilpage_o02_s00

I am very impressed with how it worked. It charged even in a shady area without direct sunlight. The Airstream batteries were fully charged in about two hours (we have intense sunlight in Colorado!!). The unit folds up and stores in it's own case and only weighs about 26 pounds. Thought I would share it with you folks. I am boondocking this coming weekend and wanted to be prepared, thus the test this weekend.
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Old 05-23-2016, 12:22 PM   #943
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Thanks Steve good to know about this 100 watt unit on sale at Amazon for $250.
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Old 05-23-2016, 06:23 PM   #944
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Steve...sweet set up. thanks for sharing

bob

p.s Do you just clip to the batt's?
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Old 05-23-2016, 06:26 PM   #945
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Peter re #906 I picked up on that the first trip…everyone had some sort of filter. We use the camco 40045 2 pack with the flex connection from Walley’s and the SHURflo 94-009-50 Universal Premium Filter Kit. I haven’t replaced the latter and am thinking of eliminating this as it seems more for taste than sediment. We cook & drink with bottled water usually the 2.5 gallon jugs. I do turn off the CW when gone and will probably carry that strategy at night now that the pump is a bit quieter.

Out FW petcock seems to have some blockage 0 deg/south is open, 90 deg (east) is closed and I believe 180 deg (n) should be open…mine drips. It’s still functional but I like Roberts plan as a winter project. I agree, behind door #3 appears to be not consistently determined.

Everyone: To confirm: Is 0/180 open and 90 closed on yours. I’ve never seen one otherwise. The dealer is now saying 90 & 180 is closed. That’s not how I remember it.

Re: # 937 The reference for dealers in Seattle, was re the Jack. I got hung up today and called Barker after 2 (5pm EST) but noticed the manual and brochure do reference… “it’s design includes a silent shutoff by use off limit switches”. If that’s the case why did the gars jamb as indicated by the dealer? The dealer at walk thru indicated the stops as such but after this work said no…that’s why it jammed.

[Are you able to run your A/C with the drain line exposed? That is what I want to see -- is the drain backing up from a kink down the line maybe? Is that back-pressure causing a leak? Why does teagues's fix work at all? Want to see mine in person if possible before replacing the cover] I don’t have shore power in storage but will try in Orcas.

Thanks or the head up on the clamp. I’m thinking there is more room to fight the clam that pulling the tubing off and not affecting the rest of the T connections. Worse case I’ll wrap a wire around it that I can twist tight, after all it’s not under upstream pressure. Thanks too for the head’s p on the crews. Mine backed right out, but we’ll see on the inbound.

When I was looking at this the other day I meant to check out the cond pans so I could utilize Teagues approach {..and I'm betting that you could rig up a squeeze bottle to just pump water up into the condensate pan, eliminating the need to use the compressor at all…} Thanks for dry run (ICON) on the cond pans. Like you I wish I could run it before I re-install. I dropped mine at removal (thinking it was going to swing down at the opposite end like the manual leads one to believe following the reverse of install vs drop like a Currey tres from downtown…nothing but net) and had to Rube Goldberg the vent flap at the end : ((((

The drain looks just like ours, about 2” exposed…wish I had a bug guard like the one for the refer. I may look around for one…also for the LP Drains.
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Old 05-23-2016, 06:53 PM   #946
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Fresh water tank drain handle points forward when closed ["0" here -- see below]. When turned 180 it is open fully, and pointing to the rear of the trailer. 90 not important IMO.

I ran the A/C for a while on gen power, but it is so dry today that no condensate was generated. Now that there is a clamp on the main drain tube, I will probably button this up and assume there will be no leaks. TBD under really hot humid conditions later this summer. Good to get the larger Honda up to the house, exercise it, and use up most of the old gas. Will keep new 30A twist adapter in the trailer for future use on the road again . . .

Yes, I almost dropped the forward end of the lower A/C case, but caught it just in time. The Dometic manual does give the impression it would be held up by clips of some sort at that end. They probably have a more detailed manual for shops, showing how to remove the thing without damage? Or maybe they hope everyone will break something and have to order new parts?

teagues apparently has a different A/C so I am not going to monkey around with trying to get water in the condensate pan(s). Know the lay of the land now, future leaks if any will be dealt with as needed.

I hope everyone has a good Memorial Day weekend.

Drive safe . . .

Cheers,

Peter
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Old 05-23-2016, 09:42 PM   #947
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
Fresh water tank drain handle points forward when closed ["0" here -- see below]. When turned 180 it is open fully, and pointing to the rear of the trailer. 90 not important IMO.

I ran the A/C for a while on gen power, but it is so dry today that no condensate was generated. Now that there is a clamp on the main drain tube, I will probably button this up and assume there will be no leaks. TBD under really hot humid conditions later this summer. Good to get the larger Honda up to the house, exercise it, and use up most of the old gas. Will keep new 30A twist adapter in the trailer for future use on the road again . . .

Yes, I almost dropped the forward end of the lower A/C case, but caught it just in time. The Dometic manual does give the impression it would be held up by clips of some sort at that end. They probably have a more detailed manual for shops, showing how to remove the thing without damage? Or maybe they hope everyone will break something and have to order new parts?

teagues apparently has a different A/C so I am not going to monkey around with trying to get water in the condensate pan(s). Know the lay of the land now, future leaks if any will be dealt with as needed.

I hope everyone has a good Memorial Day weekend.

Drive safe . . .

Cheers,

Peter
Thanks Peter. I have a slow drip in your closed position (left) but no drip in the 90 (perpendicular) 180 open works fine. I'll work on it and maybe try some air. At least the 90 is my safe harbor.

Good plan for the AC...maybe nose up ever so slightly as Teagues suggested, a least that's my plan. I'll find out in Missouri this Sept/Cct . I was going to button mine up tomorrow. Still pissed about the damage but have moved on from the RG repairs. All should be fine and only visual from the inside of the cover.

Walking the dog this afternoon I was thinking about how I could push some water back up to the T and cork the bottom. Sorta like a plumbers head test....check it in the am, but I haven't figured how to get the eater up under very low pressure and stop it in an instant @ the T.

Thanks. We're heading to Manzanata but will come back Sunday ahead of the crazies hopefully.

Safe journey everyone.

Thank you to all who are now and have served and protected our country.

Bob
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Old 05-23-2016, 11:13 PM   #948
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Quote:
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Steve...sweet set up. thanks for sharing

bob

p.s Do you just clip to the batt's?
Got it. Thanks for the link.

b
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Old 05-24-2016, 05:56 AM   #949
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Quote:
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teagues apparently has a different A/C so I am not going to monkey around with trying to get water in the condensate pan(s). Know the lay of the land now, future leaks if any will be dealt with as needed.
I did not catch on that you we're not actually experiencing leaks from the AC into the cabin. Of course you would not want to troubleshoot as I described to find the source of a problem that does not currently exist.

The specific air conditioner that Airstream installed, though, probably matters less than the routing of the condensate drain line.
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Old 05-24-2016, 06:36 AM   #950
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Yes, my proactive A/C R&D was based on the clear report by CanonFan in that other thread that "his" 2016 FC20 was leaking and missing a clamp -- exactly where mine was also missing a clamp, it turns out! -- when his dealer was doing the run-through of all systems before he (almost) bought the unit. [see Post #907 here]

Glad I took the time to check! The missing clamp may conform to factory specs, and CanonFan's leak may have had other causes [blockage in drain tube downstream?], but the exploratory surgery was a good investment, plus our tubing is now clamped at the T.

"Measure thrice, cut once . . . "

Thanks again for your feedback.

Peter

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Old 05-24-2016, 07:49 AM   #951
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Quote:
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Yes, my proactive A/C R&D was based on the clear report by CanonFan in that other thread that "his" 2016 FC20 was leaking and missing a clamp -- exactly where mine was also missing a clamp, it turns out! -- when his dealer was doing the run-through of all systems before he (almost) bought the unit. [see Post #907 here]

Glad I took the time to check! The missing clamp may conform to factory specs, and CanonFan's leak may have had other causes [blockage in drain tube downstream?], but the exploratory surgery was a good investment, plus our tubing is now clamped at the T.

"Measure thrice, cut once . . . "

Thanks again for your feedback.

Peter

10-4. Adding that clamp sure seems like a no-brainer.
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Old 05-24-2016, 09:26 AM   #952
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CruizinDux...The solar charges comes with clips that attach to the batteries. They are about 10 feet long, so, there is some flexibility in being able to move them around during the day to maximize the benefits from the moving sun.
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