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Old 03-30-2003, 09:09 PM   #21
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For those who can't fork over the cash for a Hensley or Pullrite, what is next best??

There is a lot of stuff on Equal-i-zer and Reese Dual Cam but I haven't seen anything about anyone going from one to the other because of performance. It seems like both camps like their hitch as well as the Hensley and Pullrite people like theirs.
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Old 03-30-2003, 09:41 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by Melvin P. Thorpe
For those who can't fork over the cash for a Hensley or Pullrite, what is next best??
A used Hensley or Pullrite. Used Hensleys are possible, but not common. Pullrite actually runs a program that helps people sell used ones.
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Old 03-30-2003, 10:10 PM   #23
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help?

I don't know if I have a problem or not but I am not sure if my Reese Dual cam is set up right. As far as the hitch head and load bars go they are in place and don't have any adjustment but where exactly are the rear brackets supposed to be? How far back from the ball centerline? I don't know if the cams are in the right place after I get the bars chained and tensioned up. I have never heard any noise from it, popping or otherwise so I just want to be sure it is set up correctly and working o.k. Any measurements for me, anyone?

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Old 03-31-2003, 07:48 AM   #24
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Chas,

I'm not sure if you are using the new dual-cam unit which was supposed to cut down on the pops and groans (usually heard at low speed).

When your tow vehicle and trailer are in a straight line, the cam at the end of the trunnion bar will be centered and laying in the the lower cam.

Here is a link to the Reese site which will show you a drawing of a properly set up system.

http://www.reeseproducts.com/support...fs/26000IN.pdf

Jack
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Old 03-31-2003, 08:10 AM   #25
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Jack,

Thanks a bunch! As I guessed mine is not set up correctly. The frame brackets are mounted too far rearward due to the propane tanks being in the way. The chains are not straight up and down like in the pics but slanted to the rear. I guess I need to fix it but how? I will see but I may have to get some weld on ones that will fit by the tanks or modify my old ones and do the same. If I remember right this seems to be a common problem on the original Dual cams? As far as I can tell it has been set up like this forever!

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Old 03-31-2003, 08:49 AM   #26
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The propane tank issue is common. My dealer drilled the u-bolt holes through the bottom plate that holds the bottles. The high arch of the ubolt was resting dead center bottom of the bottles, just barely touching them. I used some foam pipe insulation (the kind that slips over a pipe) and created a small foam donut that raises the tank just enough to keep the bolt off the tank.

Reese's new design dual-cam unit has eliminated that problem.

Jack
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Old 03-31-2003, 04:14 PM   #27
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Reese dual cam problems

Greetings Chas!

If the spring bars that you have with the trailer aren't the one's that were part of the original setup, it is possible that they are a different length. In 1998 after having my hitch examined by a Reese technician, it was discovered that my spring bars were too light for my Overlander and new Reese 750 pound spring bars were purchased. The technician didn't mention it, nor did I notice when hitching up that the new bars were shorter and the chains were now at an unusual angle. I began experiencing what you mention. A fellow Vintage Airstreamer at the Rally Grounds noticed my consternation when I was hitching up and offered to help me get the rig in proper adjustment. Fortunately, the mounting on my '64 Overlander just clears the propane tank retainer ring with the shorter spring bars - - an inch shorter and the tank retainer ring would have needed to be repositioned.

Before resorting to welding the Reese Dual Cam levers to the "A" frame, I would suggest considering the possibility of finding a longer set of spring bars or relocating the mounting base for the propane tanks. During this past weekend I checked the three sets of Reese spring bars in my garage, and they vary in length nearly three inches from the shortest to the longest (the spring bars cover a span of 30 years). At least for my setup, I like the idea of being able to compensate for different spring bar lengths by moving the dual cam lever arm mounts.

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Old 03-31-2003, 09:49 PM   #28
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Good ideas Kevin,

Longer load bars would be a easy fix. More length equals less weight rating (due to leverage) or is rating dependent upon diameter of the bars? But I am also hearing that the Reese Dual cam needs a minimum weight for it to even work correctly. I should probably weigh my tongue and see what I have. I am totally not sold on even having a equalizer hitch on my rig as my F-250 seems to have no problem at all without it. As it is I am using the last link on the chains which is more than enough tension, it will actually make the rear of my Overlander a bit lower to the ground, something I really want to keep from doing. I also have AirLift airbags on the rear of my truck (from my slide in camper days) so the only thing I might be missing by losing the Dual cam is the anti-sway feature.

Decisions, decisions!!

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Old 04-01-2003, 06:47 AM   #29
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Reese dual cam problems

Greetings Chas!

For the spring bars that I have, the length doesn't seem to be directly related to weight rating - - the 500 pound bars are the longest with the 350 pound bars being the shortest. I suspect that it may be more an issue of age of the bars. I seem to remember being told when I purchased my first trailer in 1980 that there were two different length spring bars available depending upon which model Reese hitch was installed.

After quite a long wait, I did finally hear from Reese Engineering with a response to my query regarding minimum weight issues with the Dual Cam system. Their reply was that it wasn't so much an issue with trailer weight as tongue weight. The system requires at least 400 pounds tongue weight to be effective. If your Overlander is anything like my '64 model, that shouldn't be a concern as my hitch weight on the Overlander varies between 675 and 725 pounds depending upon how much gear I have loaded.

With the 750 pound spring bars, I drop either three or four links again depending upon how heavily loaded the trailer is - - typically this means drop four when traveling to the International Rally - - towing with the '99 GMC K2500 Suburban with 10,000 pound trailer towing package.

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Old 04-01-2003, 07:52 AM   #30
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I'm not ssure about the lengths I think they can be ordered as needed. My 750lb bars at short and I have a seto of 1200lb's that are longer. the 750s are circa 1980 (have recipt) the 1200's are mid 90's.
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