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04-23-2004, 11:59 AM
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#21
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4 Rivet Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amfab
UWE , or others, let me ask you about the pan removal and reinstallation process. I have a 67 Caravel and I was under the impression that the outer skin for the upper body comes down over the belly skin at the seem at the floor, with the belly skin wrapping under the channel that sits on the plywood floor. Is this the case, and if so how do you replace it without lifting the body? I must be missing something here, because everyone is saying that this isnt that hard
Thanks
-Andrew
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The belly pans on the 74 models were:
Aluminum #3004 (type, alloy,coating)
.024" (thickness)
61.5 inch wide by various lengths depending on model. (i.e 287" on 31'cbath).
The part that you see when standing along side the trailer at the edges around the lower perimeter is a separate item know as "Banana Wrap". They extend up a short distance behind the lower sides and front & rear panels. Then they curve under the trailer and overlap the edge of the "bellyskin".
The Banana Wraps on the 74 models were:
Aluminum #3004 (type, alloy, coating) I don't know if it is coated or not.
.024" (thickness) (thinness )
22 3/8 inch wide x various lengths (with formed bend)
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04-23-2004, 12:55 PM
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#22
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Vintage Alum. Enthusiast
1959 24' Tradewind
Phoenix
, Arizona
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: I currently do not own a 2nd Airstream
Posts: 4,360
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Suz,
You just described an olympic rivet to a tee. If you're planning on using them, get them without the neoprene washers and use Vulkem instead. Last much longer.
FF
__________________
4CU 2699 / AIR 10 / TAC AZ-1
I'm haunted by aluminum.
Charter Member of the 4 Corners Unit.
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04-23-2004, 02:24 PM
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#23
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1 Rivet Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 6
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Sacrificial Anodes??
I don't as yet have an airstream (still searching), but I read some of these threads to gain knowledge for that day. In reading the post about replacing the belly panels, it seems that corrosion between the two dis-similar metals is of concern. I don't know if this will help, or even if it can be done, but here goes anyway. On boats, residential hot water tanks, inground pipe systems, etc., I have read of placing a sacrificial anode in the system. The idea is that this sacrificial anode is more succeptable to the forces of electrolysis than is either of the other two parent metals. As a result, the electrons migrate to the anode and corrode it rather than the parent metals. I don't know if or how this could be done with an A/S, but if it could, there would be no corrosion other than that at the anode, and this could be easily replaced. As to how to install it or where, or if it is practical I leave to those with more knowledge of the subject than I have. Just my two cents worth. DGR
__________________
DnnRe8
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04-23-2004, 02:44 PM
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#24
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4 Rivet Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 279
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Only works if you put the Airstream in the lake.
All your examples show a prescense of liquid.
that is why the kits made for autos are not quite the greatest thing since sliced bread. Man I wish it'd work. I have watched a number of things I am/was fond of just rust/corrode away.
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04-23-2004, 04:57 PM
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#25
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1 Rivet Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 6
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Sac. Anodes
I guess you are right Jaco. Most probably you do need water to act as a conductor. I remember having a steel gas line replaced on my property years ago. The plumber had to dig a trench to remove the old line and replace it with a new line. I remember he put a cloth sack, not much bigger than a 5# sack of flour, into the trench next to the pipe. I asked him about it and he told me it was to act as an anode. Then again the ground is usually damp and this would provide the conductor. As I said originally, I don't know if this would work or not, just trying to offer another avenue to explore with the corrosion problem. Come to think of it, if it did work, trailer manufacturers would probable offer it in some form or another by now to help solve the problem.
__________________
DnnRe8
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04-23-2004, 05:58 PM
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#26
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2 Rivet Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 88
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Thanks Jaco. My confusion came from two things, One: William Henshall's body off restoration, where on his '50s era airstream the belly aluminum came up under the C channel on the floor and Two: the 60s Caravels banana wrap isnt very banana-ey as you can see here:
http://www.vintageairstream.com/arch...67Caravel.html.
I guess there are so many model differnces I wont know zactly whats goin on till I dig into it in few weeks......Ill take pictures for reference tho
Thanks again
-Andrew
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04-23-2004, 06:01 PM
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#27
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2 Rivet Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 88
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Oh by the way, the sign industry uses something called "Sintra" I belive it is a PVC. comes in 1/16th and 1/8th in thicknesses and is very durable and similar in flexibility to aluminum . Look for sign suppliers on the web for sources and pricing
-Andrew
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04-23-2004, 06:33 PM
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#28
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Rivet Monster
1975 31' Sovereign
1980 31' Excella II
Sprung Leak
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 7,172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaco
The belly pans on the 74 models were:
Aluminum #3004 (type, alloy,coating)
.024" (thickness)
61.5 inch wide by various lengths depending on model. (i.e 287" on 31'cbath).
The part that you see when standing along side the trailer at the edges around the lower perimeter is a separate item know as "Banana Wrap". They extend up a short distance behind the lower sides and front & rear panels. Then they curve under the trailer and overlap the edge of the "bellyskin".
The Banana Wraps on the 74 models were:
Aluminum #3004 (type, alloy, coating) I don't know if it is coated or not.
.024" (thickness) (thinness )
22 3/8 inch wide x various lengths (with formed bend)
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Jaco,
Yes the banana wraps are coated, and FWIW at least on my unit they lap on top of the lowest shell skin, not under it like the sketch shows...I have the same sketch That joint is covered by a piece of trim.
Aaron
__________________
....so many Airstreams....so little time...
WBCCI #XXXX AIR #2495
Why are we in this basket...and where are we going
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