Wheels loud squealing when NOT braking, help

[krohnjs]

Just had annual brake service on 85 3-axel Sovereign. Worked fine on two short 10 mi trips. Next drove 50 mi. After just 20 mi noted very low fuel mileage (05 Suburban); driver commented felt we had an anchor out. Stopped to check brakes w/heat meter. Center hub drivers side was very hot (207) on hub. Proceeded on another 20 mi (freeway, no braking except for stopping), checked heat again, not as hot. At 50 mi stopped at camp ground, registered (checked heat again, all about same temp, whew, maybe something just had to wear in). Pulled out from office and wheels were squealing loudly, no braking. Passenger got out to determine what wheel was squealing, sounded like all of them or the one doing it was so loud it seemed like all. While brakes were serviced also replaced the 7-prong connector on the trailer that attaches to the Suburban and one tire was replaced.

Also, about 15 mi into trip on first very slight upgrade the Suburban shifted which it would not normally do on that slight grade (continued to do so on other slight grades). At about 25-30 mi out, the Check Engine Light came on solid (not blinking) in the Suburban. This occurred once before about a year ago on a very steep upgrade. When trailer was unhooked and vehicle driven to shop, light went out and they couldn't test for problem!

Anyone have ideas as to what is causing wheel/brake problem?? Faulty controller, bad wiring, or just Murphy?

[jdalrymple]

Sounds as thought the installer adjusted the shoes to tightly in the "at rest" position. The shoes are rubbing the inside of the drum tightly even when no power is being applied would be my guess.

JD

[r carl]

Better pull it apart and inspect it.

[Action]

Or jack up a wheel when cold and see if the wheel spins. (You did not specify and I am assuming drums brakes)The wheel should spin with a slight drag of the shoes against the drum.

>>>>>>>>>>>>Action

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by r carl

Better pull it apart and inspect it.

Yep...may very well be the adjustment and/or shoes not installed rite.

Bob

[krohnjs]

Thank for your comments. Yes, they are drum brakes and all that was done was pack wheel bearings and check brakes, none of which should have caused this problem IMHO. Much brake adjustment trouble since everything (brake assy, 12" hub/drum 6 lug 5.5", inner & outer bearings Dex drum) was replaced 2 years ago. So guess it's 50 miles back to shop for more adjustment hopefully without damage to the brakes.

After the brake work we went 10 mi and awaited awning parts for 3 days, drove 10 mi back to shop and brakes worked fine, no squealing, stopping fine. They re-checked them doing the jack up, spin (2.5 turns) and all were good except that center drivers side which was tight barely 1 spin. Loosened it, got it too loose more than 3 spins, so re tightened a bit. Checked and it did not go 2.5 turns but they said that was good and off we went.

[wmarsha]

check the connections inside the 7 pin and make sure they are correct! if the brakes are applied, it would match all of your symptoms, including the check engine light-probably a brake concern or signal light concern-both of which could be manifested by incorrect wiring in the 7 pin.

[Friday]

I don't think you'll get a 'check engine' from a trailer wiring issue... possible you were getting a transmission overheat problem... do you have a tranny temp gauge?

Even if the light goes out, an OBD reader should still pull up any codes it logged.

If you've logged 50+ miles with brakes dragging, they will have worn themselves in/off. Hopefully still enough material there that you aren't replacing shoes or drums...

[RickDavis]

Most check engine lights will reset after a certain number of starts with the problem not present

[wmarsha]

I was wondering if the problem was ever resolved?

[DGJackson]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

Yep...may very well be the adjustment and/or shoes not installed rite.

Bob

Bob are you saying that servicing trailer brakes is more of a religious act. I Know that I generally invoke the name of God when servicing brakes on boat trailers - it's usually in a manner that would get me sent to the Mother Superior.

Dennis

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by DGJackson

Bob are you saying that servicing trailer brakes is more of a religious act. I Know that I generally invoke the name of God when servicing brakes on boat trailers - it's usually in a manner that would get me sent to the Mother Superior.

Dennis

Very religious...going by my last experience with Dexter.
Turned out well after some divine intervention.

Bob

[perryg114]

My trailer is a little older than yours 81 and I have similar problems. When the brakes are properly adjusted some of them run hot. Evidently, there is still some friction between the magnet arm and the drum face that caused the brakes to be on a little all the time. This problem is not consistant from wheel to wheel and you have some that run hot and lock prematurely and make noises. You are saying that you had new backing plates and drums a couple years ago and you are having this problem? Dexter has had some problems with shoes coming apart so you might want to pull the drum that is causeing problems and check things. If the drums get real hot you can pop a grease seal out and then grease gets on the shoes and causes them to lock up. Crappy shoe compound can cause all sorts of issues as well. The trailer brake shoes I have seen have about 1/8" of lining when new and who knows if they even care if the compound is correct. I had lockup problems on the back of my truck and it turned out to be cheap linings. I put a better grade of linings on and the problems went away. The problem is with trailers is that none of them are any good. Blame it on made in China and we don't care if it works as long as it is cheap.

Perry

[krohnjs]

Thanks for all your input. We drove the 50 mi back to the shop and around town to use the brakes a lot. No squealing wheels on start up, yeah. Checked with heat gun and only one hub was about 20 degrees warmer than others but all at reasonable temp. We did go to the shop after that to let them know we had really road tested them (now at 100 miles). Braking did not seem quite right so the mechanic took it for a spin (with hubby in shotgun); did a lot of quick braking all the while adjusting the controller. We travelled about 175 mi after that and had no sliding wheels, adequate braking (tho it feels like an emergency stop might have the trailer pushing the tow a bit), with a slight brake squeal upon braking which we've always had. Controller will probably need adjustment again after more mileage.

As to the service engine light, it occurred once in the 175 mi trip (always happens on upgrade). Shortly thereafter had annual safety/emissions inspection. No problem passing tests. Attendant said it is probably a bad sensor so at next service will get it replaced.

[ROBERT CROSS]

"Attendant said it is probably a bad sensor so at next service will get it replaced."

Oxygen sensor? Mass air flow? EGR valve? These sensors can be very difficult to diagnose correctly the first time. Especially with an intermittent check engine light. Some codes may not be stored in history.
Has your MPG gone down recently?
Keeping an accurate log can be very helpful in determining engine performance.
First thing I would do....check for a partially blocked fuel & air filter,replace. Also if the engine has been running rich for an extended period,(02,MAF,EGR), the CAT converter may be restricting the exhaust flow.

The newer sensors are much more reliable now, so care is needed in the diagnoses.

Bob

[perryg114]

Pull the codes on it and see which sensor is bad.

Perry