Regreasing wheel bearings on a new Airstream

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Pappy

Andy I will respectfully disagree with your statement. From what you said I should be able to pick up the phone and call any dealer and order the parts. That was not the case. I would have gladly done that. But what I found was "no we use after market parts" or "we no longer are an Airstream dealer". Contrary to what some people think some of us are not cheap we just want good parts that were on the unit when they were made. When the dealer network breaks down which may be a result of the financial times its necessary to abandon such proprietary policies on such regularly needed maintenance items. To send a good customer like myself on such a Easter Egg hunt is not right. My choice to go retrieve the parts came out of frustration with such a bad proprietary approach and a parts system that is weak at best. You may be one of the good guys but you are five days shipping away from my home and that is not acceptable. You had my support right up until your criticism in the last post. My view from this side of the fence is all the matters unfortunately for you and the dealer network I am not alone in this opinion. I never thought I would take time to post a response like this but I guess I have finally reach old fart status and as all of us know an old fart is never wrong just like the customer is never wrong.

I outlined what Airstreams policy is, regarding parts.

If dealers do not follow that policy, that certainly is their choice. That has nothing to do with us.

Our choice is to follow that policy, which is why we carry over 3300 different Airstream parts in stock.

We carry the grease seal that your Airstream uses. Usually, at least several dozen. Most owners prefer the original part, but some insist on an after market cheapo. Again, that's a customers choice.

Shipping a small package via USPS would be maybe 3 days, not 5. Grease seals are a PM item. But, for whatever reason you needed them quickly, next day service is also available, which is still cheaper than driving 100 miles or so.

I am resposible for Inland RV Center, and not what other dealers may chose to do.

Since you have the trailer, it might be wise to order a duplicate set of seals now, so that you have them on hand, for the next repack.

Emergency's do happen that require next day shipment of parts. An owner must understand, that the freight companies set the rates, not a small business like us.

Sorry your disappointed at us, but we carry well into the 6 figures of specific Airstream parts, yet on occassion, we run out, when a vender back orders, as Airstream does once in a while.

If all the dealers you contacted did not have anything but an after market seal for you, then we would suggest that you keep them in mind, the next time you need parts, so that you don't waste their time, or yours.

Typical shipment, as an example of early 70 windows, takes 3 weeks, usually.

Not much we or any other dealer can do about things like that, except live with it, or quit the program. That doesn't make the customer happy, but what is an alternative? We stock many different windows for the 70's, with some limitations. Stocking a part of any kind, that sells one or two a year, is inconvenient for a customer, but is financially a bad business practice as well.

Dealers cannot dictate to Airstream.

Andy

[osolow]

Most of your newer cars have sealed wheel bearings and when they go bad or have a problem it's a non serviceable item so u just replace them.

Know if a car has serviceable wheel bearings most people ether run them until they go bad and complain when they have to have them replaced or they don't service them at all.

i was able to find wheel seals at the local O'reillys, and a local trailer sales company.

[elbundi]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

We do what is called a "major brake."

We jack up the trailer and remove all 4 tires and wheels.

We inspect the tires for any problems.

We check the tires for proper inflation and correct the pressure if necessary.

We inspect the shocks for leaks and/or old age. (More than 10 years)

We remove the bearings and clean them in a solvent.

We inspect the bearings for any problems.

We pressure pack the bearings.

We degrease the hubs.

At this point we balance the running gear if requested.

We clean all the dust and dirt from the brake system.

We test the breakaway switch and the magnets.

We replace the brake shoes and/or magnets if necessary. (Electric brakes)

We replace the adjuster springs if they are more than 10 years old. (Electric brakes)

We deglaze the brake shoes and magnets. (Electric brakes)

We deglaze the hub and drum. (Electric brakes)

We check the fluid level in the master cylinder. (Disc brakes)

We test the breakaway switch. (Disc brakes)

We replace the rotors and/or pads if necessary. (Disc brakes)

We deglaze the pads. (Disc brakes)

We deglaze the rotors. (Disc brakes)

We add some grease to the hubs or rotors.

We reinstall the bearings.

We replace the grease seals.

We reassemble the running gear.

We adjust the brakes. (Electric brakes)

We remove the trailer from the jack stands.

Labor charge is 2.5 hours for the major brake, for a tandem axle.

Labor charge for the shock replacement is .3 hours each.

Labor charge for the running gear balance depends on the wheels, steel or aluminum.

Andy

Andy

What would you add to this list for an eight wheel classic motorhome? I've only clocked 2,000 miles in just over a year, is it time yet?

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by elbundi

Andy

What would you add to this list for an eight wheel classic motorhome? I've only clocked 2,000 miles in just over a year, is it time yet?

Sorry, but we do not do a "major brake" on any motorized vehicles.

That's an entirely different program in California.

The tag axle, however has standard travel trailer electric brakes.


Andy

[Minnie's Mate]

On an older thread it was mentioned that some grease will liquefy at high temperatures and run out the seals and that a premium grease should be used. There was no indication as to what was a bad grease and what was a good grease.

I'm not mechanically inclined so if I ask my service tech what type grease he uses and he says, "we use ____." I won't know if it is the type that will bleed out or not. What type of grease should be avoided and what type should be requested?

[Gene]

I bought one called "Marine Corrosion Control and Trailer Wheel Bearing Grease". It was a LubriMatic product. I use it on the ball for lubrication. I think this stuff is pretty much standard no matter who makes it. It's like motor oil, so long as it conforms to contemporary standards, it's all the same. This one says: "dropping point" is 550˚. For the definition, see: Dropping point - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Basically, that's when it liquifies. So, don't drive through molten lava. I wonder why it isn't called "dripping point" or even better, "drooling point"?

When using whatever you get, remember to clean out all the old grease as different products may not mix well.

Gene

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Minnie's Mate

On an older thread it was mentioned that some grease will liquefy at high temperatures and run out the seals and that a premium grease should be used. There was no indication as to what was a bad grease and what was a good grease.

I'm not mechanically inclined so if I ask my service tech what type grease he uses and he says, "we use ____." I won't know if it is the type that will bleed out or not. What type of grease should be avoided and what type should be requested?

It has been reported by Airstream and Henschen that the "right wrong" grease mix, can actually be corrosive.

Therefore the bearings and the hubs, should be TOTALLY free of any grease, before a new grease is used.

Andy

[Guido]

Originally Posted by Minnie's Mate

On an older thread it was mentioned that some grease will liquefy at high temperatures and run out the seals and that a premium grease should be used. There was no indication as to what was a bad grease and what was a good grease.

I'm not mechanically inclined so if I ask my service tech what type grease he uses and he says, "we use ____." I won't know if it is the type that will bleed out or not. What type of grease should be avoided and what type should be requested?

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

It has been reported by Airstream and Henschen that the "right wrong" grease mix, can actually be corrosive.

Therefore the bearings and the hubs, should be TOTALLY free of any grease, before a new grease is used.

Andy

So, again, what type of grease should be used, and what grease should not be used?

[Ganaraska]

Buy a good name brand of grease. Such as, Quaker State, Castrol, or any of the major oil companies.

Stay away from cheap no name or house brands. I am not saying specifically that other brands of grease are no good just that you should stick with brands that you know are of good quality.

The grease can come in a tube or a tub as long as it is labeled for wheel bearings.

[Minnie's Mate]

I received a PM from one of the posters on this thread that has watched the factory at JC repack his bearings more than once and inquired with them what they were using and he said make sure it is either synthetic or "red" axle grease. This type is supposed to be moisture resistant. Note: nothing would be water proof, but some grades are more resistant to moisture than others.

[SilverCottage]

Did anyone find the aftermarket cross reference part number for Airstream's 680370-100 seal? This fits 12 inch brakes on a 2007 27FB.

Thanks!

[Minnie's Mate]

Originally Posted by SilverCottage

Did anyone find the aftermarket cross reference part number for Airstream's 680370-100 seal? This fits 12 inch brakes on a 2007 27FB.

Thanks!

I don't have the cross reference for aftermarkets, but I ordered my seals from Out-of-Doors Mart. They were the Airstream units you have listed and were $6.95 each plus shipping. I ordered two sets so I have them for next year, too.

I just got around to having them installed last week. The cost for re-packing the bearings was $68.95/axle plus $50.00 to adjust the brakes (they needed it bad!). I have the Dexter 12 inch hubs.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Minnie's Mate

I don't have the cross reference for aftermarkets, but I ordered my seals from Out-of-Doors Mart. They were the Airstream units you have listed and were $6.95 each plus shipping. I ordered two sets so I have them for next year, too.

I just got around to having them installed last week. The cost for re-packing the bearings was $68.95/axle plus $50.00 to adjust the brakes (they needed it bad!). I have the Dexter 12 inch hubs.

That grease seal, does not come from Airstream, (note the packaging), and is far removed from the grease seal that Airstream has.

The correct seal has a blue ring around the edge, has a double flare, has a spring in it, has metal on both sides, and weighs 2.4 ounces.(Good)

The $6.95 seal id for short term use, does not come from Airstream, and only weigh 1.3 ounces. (Fair)

A word to the wise.

You get what you pay for.

Unfortunately, posting a comparison photo is almost impossible.

Don't use low quality grease seals. That leads to bearing failures, which leads to axle replacements, and that costs big bucks as well as a considerable setback when it happens in the middle of your trip. Add to that the extra cost of meals and/or motels.

Andy

[2airishuman]

Originally Posted by Minnie's Mate

...They were the Airstream units you have listed and were $6.95 each plus shipping...

quick update for those who follow this thread or may need bearing REpacks soon.

it's been 30,000+ miles (close to 35k) and 2 1/2 years since my last note IN this thread.

just had the triple axel REpacked last week at the mothership.

the factory service center OFFICIAL grease seal for the henschens axles on my unit were...

$42.66

that's for 3 axles/6 hubs so the price for SEALS was $7.11 each.

this is basically the SAME PRICE m'mate paid for his from ODM.
__________

total cost for the service was $360 which includes tax, shop supplies, parts and labor.

i consider this a good value given the time, space and effort for diy on a 34 footer.

and only about 30$ more than 2 years ago.

at 35k miles the grease was still very very red and slickity.

cheers
2air'

[Gene]

2air, did you tell them it was 30,000 miles and not the 10,000 miles or 6 months they recommend? If so, how did they react?

Ours were repacked at JC last Fall because of other issues that had to be taken care of and I was relieved I didn't have to do it.

Gene

[bobfowler]

Originally Posted by Action

And it is true, the majority of wheel bearing failures is due to the last service on those bearings. That is another reason the car manufactures went to sealed wheel bearings. And who says they built cars for planned obselence.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action

I know I'm responding to an old post, but...

The answer to the question is Alfred P. Sloan.

hehehe

[Action]

Yes it is an old post. And so is Al. (he is an old ... post)

And still true.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action

[2airishuman]

Originally Posted by CrawfordGene

2air, did you tell them it was 30,000 miles and not the 10,000 miles or 6 months they recommend? If so, how did they react?...

hi gene

indeed the time/mileage interval was mentioned,

several times.

i personally inspected the internals...

the spindles and bearing packs looked as new,

the excess grease in the hub caps was darker maroon,

but AT the bearings and on the spindles the grease was red as new.

the mechanic noted they looked great and wondered WHY i was having them done...

the time/mileage answer came up then again.

since the unit has disc brakes there was no labor charge for "inspecting" the drums brake bits...

3 hours TOTAL labor charge, plus seals, cotter pins and misc shop supplies.
__________

so at 5 years of ownership this is the 3RD time they've been repacked.

~75-77,000 miles total use for an average of 25,000 mile interval.

cheers
2air'

[Gene]

Good deal. My impression is the brakes with drums are more important to inspect than the bearings. At least that's what I'm telling myself since it'll be about 15,000 miles since repacking by the time I get home in late July. Then I'll install self adjusting brakes on the axle that doesn't have them when I do the repacking.

Gene

[tpi]

I just did my '05 after 3-4 years and maybe 7K miles. 3 hubs with beautiful red grease and perfect bearings. One hub with a burned out inner bearing and 1/2 inch of freeplay at outer circumference of tire. It was very evident when I first removed the cap which bearing was bad. 3 had red grease, one had black burned grease.

I'm not inclined to do more frequent service based on what I saw as long as brakes are functioning properly.

I have checked hub temps when traveling and I'm not convinced it is much of an early warning system. The bad bearing was running cool in my checks, at least up to the last 500 miles where I may have not checked the hubs.

Since the Airstream is so easy to jack with a bottle jack I'm going to lift it and check the freeplay in the wheels as a frequent check. I should be able to do both sides in little over 5 minutes.

One thing I don't see mentioned is those heavy duty grease seals are a bugger to get out. Does anyone use a puller tool with them? I pulled them apart with vice grips and dug them out with screwdriver. Do not attempt to drive them out with the bearing, you'll wreck the bearing. Ask me how I know