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09-16-2010, 07:48 AM
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#1
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4 Rivet Member
1976 31' Sovereign
2000 33' Land Yacht
Ball Ground
, Georgia
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 311
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How tight
I should know this but in case it's different from a tow vehicle.I'm repacking bearings and wonder how to install the caslelated(sp) nut. I assume you tighten down to seat things and then back off to line up the cotter pin. How tight/loose? I don't want to damage bearings.I don't have a torque wrench so avoid pretty tight or kinda loose. Thanks.
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09-16-2010, 07:54 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
2005 30' Classic
Burlington
, Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,743
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I don't know that you can use a torque wrench to do this anyway.
I have always just used a regular wrench to "snug everything up" I guess the only way I can describe it is "until I feel resistance."
I then back the nut off to the next available slot where I can insert the cotter pin and do so.
Finally, as force of habit, I just grab teh hub and try to move it laterally to ensure myself it isn't "sloppy-loose."
ever had any problem doing this on wheel bearings over many (well,
actually many, many!) years.
Brian.
__________________
Brian & Connie Mitchell
2005 Classic 30'
Hensley Arrow / Centramatics
2008 GMC Sierra SLT 2500HD,4x4,Crew Cab, Diesel, Leer cap.
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09-16-2010, 08:08 AM
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#3
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2 Rivet Member
1980 31' Excella II
Davenport
, Iowa
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 57
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Frt wheel brgs
Well if memory is correct, I recall the 2005 GMC has a front hub assembly which means there is no repacking of wheel bearings possible. Bearing get noisy, rough or seem to be loose then you purchase the hub assembly. When you install the hub assembly you will have a spec. Have you pulled yours apart and found something else?
Good luck on the maintenance, Mike
__________________
Mike and Kim
WBCCI 5965
TAC GA-9
1980 31' Excella II
2003 Silverado HD Crew Cab
"We must become the change we want to see."
- Mahatma Gandhi
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09-16-2010, 08:16 AM
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#4
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4 Rivet Member
1975 Argosy 24
Malakoff
, Texas
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 490
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to finger resistance and back to the nearest slot....
tight causes excess heat and wear
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09-16-2010, 09:29 AM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1977 27' Overlander
Trotwood
, Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,153
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Mike is correct if this is a 4wd.The is nothing to pack,they are sealed units and must be completley replaced. Its not a hard installation at all. If its 2 wheel drive with a standard spindle,I tighten em with a wrench to make sure they seat.Then loosen the nut and retighten finger tight to resistance. My Ford does not have a castle nut.IT has a regular nut and then a castle nut like thing that slips over the nut,which makes it like a castle nut,with the notches that you put the cotter key thru and thru the end of the spindle.
Roger
__________________
Roger & MaryLou
___________________
F350 CREWCAB SW LONG BED
7.3 liter Power Stroke Diesel
1977 27ft OVERLANDER
KA8LMQ
AIR # 22336 TAC- OH-7
May your roads be straight and smooth and may you always have a tailwind!
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09-16-2010, 09:36 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1983 34' Excella
1967 24' Tradewind
Little Rock
, Arkansas
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAT
I should know this but in case it's different from a tow vehicle...
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From this, I am led to believe that GAT is not packing the bearings on a tow vehicle of any kind, but rather on his trailer.
__________________
Vaughan
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09-16-2010, 08:51 PM
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#7
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4 Rivet Member
1976 31' Sovereign
2000 33' Land Yacht
Ball Ground
, Georgia
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 311
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How tight
This is correct. I am repacking the bearings(maybe) on my new 1976 Soverign. I have not re-done bearings in many years and was concerned if tightness increased with heat. I think I will go with the recommendation of tight,loose, then fingure tight not to over do. I say maybe, because I am also fairly soon going to replace the axels and trying to decide if a complete set is the best way to go. I need to see what's inside before I decide. Thank you for your good help. Having a bearing go out on a busy highway isn't my idea of fun.
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09-16-2010, 09:36 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1983 34' Excella
1967 24' Tradewind
Little Rock
, Arkansas
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAT
This is correct. I am repacking the bearings(maybe) on my new 1976 Soverign. I have not re-done bearings in many years and was concerned if tightness increased with heat. I think I will go with the recommendation of tight,loose, then fingure tight not to over do. I say maybe, because I am also fairly soon going to replace the axels and trying to decide if a complete set is the best way to go. I need to see what's inside before I decide. Thank you for your good help. Having a bearing go out on a busy highway isn't my idea of fun.
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Sounds like you are on the right track. I usually pack, go tight, spin a few times, loosen, barely tighten, then back off to the nearest castle slot. Then spin again and do the wiggle test.
If you're doing axles anyway, complete ones with new brakes and bearings would be worth considering.
__________________
Vaughan
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09-16-2010, 09:41 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,721
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If you are repacking the bearings and just replacing the seals, then finger tight and back off to the next slot is probably OK.
If you are replacing the bearings, you should torque them to 50 ft-lbs (while turning) to make sure the races are seated tight in the hub. Then back off completely, re-tighten finger tight and loosen to the nearest slot.
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09-17-2010, 08:32 AM
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#10
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2 Rivet Member
1980 31' Excella II
Davenport
, Iowa
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vswingfield
From this, I am led to believe that GAT is not packing the bearings on a tow vehicle of any kind, but rather on his trailer.
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OOOPS... Guess next time I will read slower.
__________________
Mike and Kim
WBCCI 5965
TAC GA-9
1980 31' Excella II
2003 Silverado HD Crew Cab
"We must become the change we want to see."
- Mahatma Gandhi
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09-17-2010, 08:51 AM
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#11
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Rivet Master
1977 27' Overlander
Trotwood
, Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,153
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I kinda do it the way Mark Does.Works fer me. I just finished rotors and pads and repacked the bearings on my F150 thats the way I tighten em.
__________________
Roger & MaryLou
___________________
F350 CREWCAB SW LONG BED
7.3 liter Power Stroke Diesel
1977 27ft OVERLANDER
KA8LMQ
AIR # 22336 TAC- OH-7
May your roads be straight and smooth and may you always have a tailwind!
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09-17-2010, 09:00 AM
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#12
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Rivet Master
2007 25' Classic
Hydes
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 713
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From working on Range Rovers, it's a feel: tighten to snug up the bearing and thrust washer back off and then snug ,don't over tighten and the back off to the first hole.
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09-17-2010, 09:36 AM
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#13
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,669
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Finger tight isn't enough for seating bearing. It is very easy to have a slight cocking of the bearing in it's seat. Go tight maybe 10 - 20 lb/feet (by feel is ok), back off to next castellation and check for smooth turning, with little drag, as well as no discernable or very little rocking motion.
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