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Old 07-25-2015, 06:17 PM   #15
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I just bought an Anderson WD Hitch. It's only 60 lbs, easy to connect and works differently than the standard WD hitch. See picture. Haven't actually tried it yet, but will give report when I do.
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Old 07-25-2015, 08:29 PM   #16
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Subscribing, still working through the 23 pages in the linked post.
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Old 07-26-2015, 09:36 AM   #17
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If you want to eliminate the possibility of the bars causing a failure with the Reese Straight Line System consider this.

Mount the trailing arms rearward on the tongue with the trailing arm facing forward rather than forward on the tongue with the trailing arm facing reward, the factory method. This removes the possibility of conflict and affords much greater ground clearance. You will have to swap the arms side to side to do this.

If you want to do this first reposition the hitch head angle to reduce the downward angle of the WD bars. The steep angle is not necessary when installed this way and will gain ground clearance. While the trailer is on the ball and the trailer supported level on the jack insert one of the bars in the hitch head and pull up on the end of the bar. Note the ground clearance, remove the trailer from the ball, and reposition the hitch head to increase that distance by an inch or more. Loosen the nuts on the trailing arm so the bolt is floating freely in the yoke. With the trailer back on the ball and the trailer level support the WD bar against the trunnions of the head. Position the trailing arm against the frame while the cam is resting in the saddle of the WD bar. Mark the holes for the trailing arm on the frame and mount it to the frame. While in this position mount the hangers to the frame. Now hook up the trailer and make what ever adjustment needed to distribute weight and have the trailer riding level. With this rough adjustment drive around the block and come to a stop after driving straight for at least 200 ft. At this point i like to tap the yoke and the cam to ensure they are seated completely on the bars. If so hand tighten the nut within the yoke and then tighten the outer nut.

Yes mounting the trailing arm reward on the tongue may require some modes of other things in that area such as, battery box frame, or gas bottle mounting. A small price to pay compared to a road side disaster.

I used this method on my daughter's trailer having had this a problem on my trailer and not wanting to repeat it.
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Old 07-29-2015, 11:41 AM   #18
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I ended up using UPS MyChoice to order from eTrailer and get it shipped to a UPS store near me. Not to openly complain, but dealers and their markup. Absurd. The lowest markup difference I got calling around was $100 vs online pricing. And no one could get it here any faster than the 3 days eTrailer could get it to me. So why would I do business with you? So much for attempting to support local businesses, since they all wanted to rip me off.

Thanks for the advice in the thread. Hopefully this weekend I'll be setting up the hitch all over again.

And maybe down the road consider the PP seriously.
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Old 07-29-2015, 12:09 PM   #19
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Is this what you bought from eTrailer?
Replacement Cam Arm Assembly - Qty. 2 Reese Accessories and Parts RP58435

I sure would have sent you this for nothing more than the cost of shipping and a few beers and make you listen to my war stories when you travel through Texas.
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Old 07-29-2015, 12:47 PM   #20
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Is this what you bought from eTrailer?
Replacement Cam Arm Assembly - Qty. 2 Reese Accessories and Parts RP58435

I sure would have sent you this for nothing more than the cost of shipping and a few beers and make you listen to my war stories when you travel through Texas.
I ended up buying this - one of my hangers did turn out to be bent on closer inspection. My original receipts show this was purchased in 2007 and the photos online look like there has been a change in the design. So I figured, I'll replace both sides at once.

The only reason I'm noting going to a PP today is I want to spend that money on lithium batteries once I make my way to Oregon.

I'll take ya up on beers and war stories when we make it thru Texas.
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Old 07-29-2015, 12:57 PM   #21
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I'll take ya up on beers and war stories when we make it thru Texas.
Cool, I look forward to it
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Old 07-29-2015, 02:23 PM   #22
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Smile reese dual cam

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Originally Posted by BoldAdventure View Post
Today has been one craptastic day. So this happened in a camp ground, around a corner up and incline that leveled out at 90 degrees and I think it was to much twist on the hitch and pop.

I think we all agree that no sway is a bad idea. Problem is, I'm a long way away from civilization boon docking in the mountains and no idea where I am going to find a fix.

On the ball travel, how far how slow? The spot we came to is full, there is another campground about 20 miles, then I have to figure out where I can find parts, hopefully I can drop and find them in Missoula about two hours away.

Murphy's law right. F me.

Not, side of the road ain't going to work, and the nearest Walmart is two hours away.
When reese redesigned dual cam from arm into saddle with threaded end was bad design as they break at nut end of threads, old style douse not have threads for adjustment, simply move back and forth on a frame to adjust.
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Old 07-29-2015, 03:25 PM   #23
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Urgent, Advice Needed - Reese Dual Cam broke

You can move the chain from the hanger to the spring bar directly, hence the matching holes. This way you'll have weight distribution not sway control!
I did this 2 times lady year after the same failures!
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Old 07-29-2015, 03:30 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by featherbedder View Post
When reese redesigned dual cam from arm into saddle with threaded end was bad design as they break at nut end of threads, old style douse not have threads for adjustment, simply move back and forth on a frame to adjust.
It really isn't a bad design, IMO. One just needs to make sure that you have 5 links under tension, minimum, in order for the turnbuckle body not to interfere with the spring bar in sharp maneuvers. And, yes, I do own and have used this design, prior to my HAHA. Still have it as my 2nd favorite hitch...for backup.
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Old 07-29-2015, 07:03 PM   #25
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It really isn't a bad design, IMO. One just needs to make sure that you have 5 links under tension, minimum, in order for the turnbuckle body not to interfere with the spring bar in sharp maneuvers. And, yes, I do own and have used this design, prior to my HAHA. Still have it as my 2nd favorite hitch...for backup.

I also used the Reese Dual Cam with my 25 ft Safari and was very pleased with it's performance for over 300,000k. Not a single issue. It is also my current backup. Jim


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Old 07-29-2015, 08:35 PM   #26
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I've been extremely happy towing with it. I've now towed from FL to NY from NY to OH from OH to MI, SD, WY and finally to MT where I am now. Never once have I felt sway.

For the most part, I think this was a freak thing based on a set of circumstances that combined.
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Old 07-30-2015, 07:53 AM   #27
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Urgent, Advice Needed - Reese Dual Cam broke

Quote:
Originally Posted by norsea View Post
Having had the same thing happen to us, I would like to think that I have some qualification(s) to speak to this issue.

First, I will point you to something I wrote up after the fact; this meaning that I pretty much had solved the problem.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...-up-43568.html

Bottom line: The individual who installed the hitch did not do it properly.

After completing the work shown in the above referenced post, we put 70K+ miles on the truck/trailer with no problems what so ever.

Regards,

Jim

That's a great thread. Have sent it as reference to others plenty of times.

HowieE knows the DC like few others. There are also some initiates on WOODALLS. JBarca has a series of outstanding threads and posts on quite a few TT tow aspects.

And unless they've updated, the e-trailer vids aren't too good. SOP, which means the usual poor setup seen on every highway.

My father and grandfather both used the DC going back about fifty years now.
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Old 07-30-2015, 10:03 AM   #28
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Yeah I read thru that. I pretty much figure I'm going to be driving into town to setup the hitch all over again. While I always assumed I had it setup correct, there are a few errors I made that I realized from that thread.
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