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Old 01-07-2013, 04:37 PM   #1233
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Roger, my tailgate also will not come down when hitched with the Andersen or my Eqaul-I-Zer hitch. Extending the stinger gives the trailer more leverage to push the truck around in a sway condition and makes weight distribution more difficult.

A better (although more costly and a sacrifice of Andersen benefits) solution for this tailgate clearance problem would be a Propride or Hensley, which sets the trailer further back from the tailgate when installed.

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Old 01-07-2013, 04:54 PM   #1234
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Hi Doug. I got the 3" longer insert. I will see how it affects the towing dynamics when we head south in Feb. I will take the short one with me just in case. I have a heavy pickup so I really don't see it causing a large difference, but we'll see. I was able to open the tailgate with my former hitch, Equalizer I think.
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Old 01-07-2013, 05:42 PM   #1235
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Roger, keep us posted.

Am really curious how this works out for a heavy truck like yours. Andy from Inland RV always remind us to select light spring bars for a heavy truck, so how can you beat no spring bars with excellent sway resistance.

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Old 01-07-2013, 06:38 PM   #1236
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Originally Posted by polarlyse View Post
Several of us Anderson users here have also run into interference opening the tailgate on out trucks with the trailer hitched. After installation this came up for me and I needed to get Anderson to make a longer insert ( 3" longer) for me. It cost me extra so if you plan ahead and tell them up front it might be a little less painful in your purchase. I also tow with a Dodge 3500 so same issue will likely apply with you. The tailgate will hit the electric tongue lift so it needs to be pushed out a little.

I've only taken mine for a short test ride after installation. Next month we plan to head south for awhile so I'll see how I like it then. I plan to take my old bar WD hitch with me just in case. I really don't anticipate any problems but since I have it I will take it along.

Good luck with yours
Thanks for this reminder!! I had read something about this before and I had forgetten it. My current hitch is Drawtite with 750# bars and no sway control (haven't felt a need for that but is one of two main reasons to go Andersen) and if I am parked dead level the tailgate just opens without hitting the electric jack. I think if I add about 1 inch over my current dimension it will be fine in about any case and will not change anything significant over where I am with current setup.
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Old 01-07-2013, 07:02 PM   #1237
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Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
Roger, my tailgate also will not come down when hitched with the Andersen or my Eqaul-I-Zer hitch. Extending the stinger gives the trailer more leverage to push the truck around in a sway condition and makes weight distribution more difficult.

A better (although more costly and a sacrifice of Andersen benefits) solution for this tailgate clearance problem would be a Propride or Hensley, which sets the trailer further back from the tailgate when installed.

doug k
This is pure bunk. The addition length necessary to clear the tail gate will have very, if any, effect on the effects of the Andersen
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Old 01-07-2013, 07:07 PM   #1238
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I had a sway control for mine also and never used it. Over the last 5 years I've found it to be stable and very easy to handle without it. When I put the Anderson on I removed the attachment point from the trailer and welded the holes. With my Equalizer hitch and parked nice and straight the tailgate would just open but not with the shorter bar the Anderson came with.

And Doug, I will let you know if any handling issues pop up with the longer hitch bar.
How long have you been retired from the Navy ???? I did active duty in the Army from '69-'72 but retired from the Air Nat. Guard.

PS: I agree with HowiE
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Old 01-10-2013, 05:00 AM   #1239
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I just got my new Andersen hitch set up and a Quickbite coupler installed on the Airstream. Measured the front and rear wheel well cutouts before and after hooking up and after. The front was 34" and the rear 35" before then the front was 34" and the rear 33" after and driving about 10 miles. The trailer stayed within 1" af level front to back. I am not an engeniree or a sceintest and my spelling is not great. I have had a commericial drivers liecense for 20 years and I do know that trucks are designed to ride and handle better with some load on the rear axle. Now I think that if my F150 only drops 2" over the rear axle with 800 lbs. of toung weight and the trailer staying almost level that is good because these are the same measurements as with the old Reese straight line hitch. After about 25 miles of towing with no noise from the hitch and no pourpiousing through intersections or over bumps I am happy so far. Now the Andersen may not be the right choise for a car or SUV as the TV but for a truck or van this is a very good choise. And for any one thinking about a longer hitch bar, the new Quickbite coulper added about 2" to the trailer tounge so I added another link to the chain that gave me more room to open the tailgate.
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Old 01-10-2013, 06:10 AM   #1240
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I just got my new Andersen hitch set up and a Quickbite coupler installed on the Airstream. Measured the front and rear wheel well cutouts before and after hooking up and after. The front was 34" and the rear 35" before then the front was 34" and the rear 33" after and driving about 10 miles. The trailer stayed within 1" af level front to back. I am not an engeniree or a sceintest and my spelling is not great. I have had a commericial drivers liecense for 20 years and I do know that trucks are designed to ride and handle better with some load on the rear axle. Now I think that if my F150 only drops 2" over the rear axle with 800 lbs. of toung weight and the trailer staying almost level that is good because these are the same measurements as with the old Reese straight line hitch. After about 25 miles of towing with no noise from the hitch and no pourpiousing through intersections or over bumps I am happy so far. Now the Andersen may not be the right choise for a car or SUV as the TV but for a truck or van this is a very good choise. And for any one thinking about a longer hitch bar, the new Quickbite coulper added about 2" to the trailer tounge so I added another link to the chain that gave me more room to open the tailgate.
If your hitch is working properly, the front should go down as well.

If not, then all the weight is on the rear.

Not good.

Andy
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:04 AM   #1241
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Unless the front axle is a fixed point, an anchor point, and weight is applied to the hitch the rear axle is the fulcrum. When force is applied to at one end of a leaver an equal and opposite force has to be applied to the other end to reach equilibrium. The fact that the front axle did not rise above the original height indicates while the rear dropped indicates that something has compensated for this expected reaction. That is WD.

Now that said one might argue that the WD was not enough when compared with other hitches.
What is enough?
The steering geometry has not been adversely effected so what is the problem? A 150 Ford can drop 2 in. With an acceptable load in the bed.
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Old 01-10-2013, 12:03 PM   #1242
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If it is not accetable for the front end to stay the same while the rear goes down 2" than please answer this. How does Peterbuilt, Kenworth, Freightline, Volvo, and Sterling and all pickup trucks towing with a king pin and fifth wheel wether a camper or or a 53' trailer with 40,000 lbs of cargo get a proper weight distribution.
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Old 01-10-2013, 12:12 PM   #1243
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If it is not accetable for the front end to stay the same while the rear goes down 2" than please answer this. How does Peterbuilt, Kenworth, Freightline, Volvo, and Sterling and all pickup trucks towing with a king pin and fifth wheel wether a camper or or a 53' trailer with 40,000 lbs of cargo get a proper weight distribution.
The simple answer to your question is, they do get an acceptable weight distribution. And it has been shown several times on here, even quoted from the pickup truck's operator's manuel, that restoring the original ride height with a WD hitch is what the truck's manufacturers recommend.

There are some folks in this community that just do whatever they can to get a rise out of others, and start an argument. Stay here long enough, and you will learn who to put on your "ignore" list. It makes for a much simpler life.
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Old 01-10-2013, 12:19 PM   #1244
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What is the part number for the hitch for a Airstream 25 and a Dodge 2500 ?
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:03 PM   #1245
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If it is not accetable for the front end to stay the same while the rear goes down 2" than please answer this. How does Peterbuilt, Kenworth, Freightline, Volvo, and Sterling and all pickup trucks towing with a king pin and fifth wheel wether a camper or or a 53' trailer with 40,000 lbs of cargo get a proper weight distribution.
The king pin on a fifth wheel is going to be slightly forward of the rear axle so no front axle weight is ever lost. That is what eliminates sway also. With the better 5'er hitches, you can actually move the hitch forward/backward a lot and control how much of the weight is put on the front axle. Fifth wheel towing is brought up all the times in these threads and it is completely different than towing from behind the rear axle.
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:08 PM   #1246
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The simple answer to your question is, they do get an acceptable weight distribution. And it has been shown several times on here, even quoted from the pickup truck's operator's manuel, that restoring the original ride height with a WD hitch is what the truck's manufacturers recommend.

There are some folks in this community that just do whatever they can to get a rise out of others, and start an argument. Stay here long enough, and you will learn who to put on your "ignore" list. It makes for a much simpler life.
But just how do fifth wheels get that WD? What lifts the rear to push down on the front? There no spring bars or chains.
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