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Old 08-21-2007, 01:29 AM   #15
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Thanks, Michelle, for the heads-up to look under our tongues!

I bet most have not actually looked closely there…

So, to shine some light on the subject, I took a photo of mine this evening:
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Old 08-21-2007, 01:33 AM   #16
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And sure enough, my steel box frame rails (& I suspect everyone’s) are open-ended as they come together under the tongue, and ready to receive water, debris, salt & other road chemicals kicked up by the tow vehicle.

Why doesn’t the Airstream factory cap these rails when assembling the trailer?

My trailer is 8 months old and has only been driven in rain once (on its way from the factory to the dealer here in California last January).
And as you can see, some rust is already appearing.

I like the idea of spraying the insides of the rails with rust retardant and then attaching an aluminum plate to act as a water deflector. (Please post photos of your solution).

So thanks again for the heads-up while we still have time to protect our trailers before the winter rain and/or snow season!

Bill
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Old 08-21-2007, 05:34 AM   #17
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can you say "mouse super highway"?

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Old 08-21-2007, 08:40 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickcrowhurst
The link I quoted above describes exactly that process:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...ot-2607-3.html

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Hi Nick. I was going to mention your concerns & remedies on this issue if you hadn't checked in already. Thank you for your contributions!
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Old 08-21-2007, 09:51 AM   #19
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I was planning on making a cardboard template. Then taking some aluminum, we have plenty around the shop, making a plug and sealing the edges with RTV. My rust has not progressed far I can stop it now.
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Old 08-21-2007, 10:53 AM   #20
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I'm not sure I want to seal the box frame up - ventilation may be of some benefit.

But I will treat this the same way I did on my 25 when I was sealing up mouse entry points: ball up some aluminum screen and stuff it everywhere I find an opening.

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Old 08-21-2007, 11:10 AM   #21
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Any plate or blocking device needs to be chosen while bearing in mind the possibilty of electrolytic corrosion between dissimilar metals when sprayed with water containing road salt or sea spray. An aluminium end plate will cause rapid corrosion unless the RTV forms a total electrically insulating barrier.(Bear in mind that electrolysis can occur across a film of dampness) Aluminium wool will have the same issue. A painted steel plate would avoid the issue. The inside of my frame is heavily coated, and I use stainless steel pot scourers to block all four open ends for crittur protection. There is no evidence so far of electrolytic corrosion. I leave the ends open for ventilation so that any internal humidity can disperse. Use of a fiberscope to inspect the inside of the frame is well worthwhile.
Greetings, Canoestream, any encouragement is gratefully received.
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Old 08-21-2007, 11:53 AM   #22
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Has anyone tried a sewn nylon fabric (e.g., rip stop nylon) cover casing opening reinforced with a wire frame, and fastening it in place with a Velcro strap? There is a upper anterior lip that the bent wire frame can hook onto. A Velcro strap can slip around the posterior medial bar hole opening to secure it. This would allow ventilation, limit wildlife/water/debris access, and permit periodic inspection.
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Old 08-27-2007, 03:08 PM   #23
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Undercoat it?

What about spraying this area with automobile undercoating, then inserting stainless steel pot scrubbers as nickcrowhurst suggests to keep out debris and critters while maintaining some ventillation?

Randy
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Old 08-28-2007, 01:52 AM   #24
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Quote:
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What about spraying this area with automobile undercoating, then inserting stainless steel pot scrubbers as nickcrowhurst suggests ?Randy
That is exactly what I used, as described here:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...ot-2607-3.html

I bought the automobile undercoating originally from JC Whitney. This was a little too thick for spraying at the end of a 25 foot tube, but the automobile undercoating I obtained from the supplier I describe is thinner, and better for spraying and penetration.
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Old 08-28-2007, 07:51 AM   #25
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Is it a straight shot from the tongue box opening all the way out the rear frame section? I would like to follow-the-mouse and route some wires all the way from the backof the trailer to the front and this thread got me to thinking
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Old 08-28-2007, 09:38 AM   #26
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This opening is also known as the "mice superhighway" to me. Block it or you will have an infestation beyond your wildest dreams.
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Old 08-28-2007, 01:37 PM   #27
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Is it a straight shot from the tongue box opening all the way out the rear frame section?
No. One long section goes from the rear fender straight to the front banana wrap on each side. The A-frame sections are welded to these long straights. Both ends of the long straights are open, so you could feed a line from the rear after removing the fender. After removing the front banana wrap you could pick up the wire and then pass it up through the floor. That's how it is on my trailer, anyhow.
Thinking about making an end-plate: if anyone still plans to do this I would recommend a piece of plastic, perhaps from an ice cream box or a breadboard, held in place by some mastic/adhesive. There would then be no electrolytic corrosion issue.
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Old 08-28-2007, 04:03 PM   #28
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Plastic?

Quote:
Originally Posted by nickcrowhurst
Thinking about making an end-plate: if anyone still plans to do this I would recommend a piece of plastic, perhaps from an ice cream box or a breadboard, held in place by some mastic/adhesive. There would then be no electrolytic corrosion issue.
Nick.
Nick,
I do not know of any plastic that I can get that I can bend at a 90 degree angle. As far as Al verses Fe. I could use some 24ga galvinized steel sheet metal Paint it and RTV it in place.
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