Have you looked under your tongue?

[nickcrowhurst]

Any plate or blocking device needs to be chosen while bearing in mind the possibilty of electrolytic corrosion between dissimilar metals when sprayed with water containing road salt or sea spray. An aluminium end plate will cause rapid corrosion unless the RTV forms a total electrically insulating barrier.(Bear in mind that electrolysis can occur across a film of dampness) Aluminium wool will have the same issue. A painted steel plate would avoid the issue. The inside of my frame is heavily coated, and I use stainless steel pot scourers to block all four open ends for crittur protection. There is no evidence so far of electrolytic corrosion. I leave the ends open for ventilation so that any internal humidity can disperse. Use of a fiberscope to inspect the inside of the frame is well worthwhile.
Greetings, Canoestream, any encouragement is gratefully received.
Nick.

[Fenghuang]

Has anyone tried a sewn nylon fabric (e.g., rip stop nylon) cover casing opening reinforced with a wire frame, and fastening it in place with a Velcro strap? There is a upper anterior lip that the bent wire frame can hook onto. A Velcro strap can slip around the posterior medial bar hole opening to secure it. This would allow ventilation, limit wildlife/water/debris access, and permit periodic inspection.

[SilverCabin]

What about spraying this area with automobile undercoating, then inserting stainless steel pot scrubbers as nickcrowhurst suggests to keep out debris and critters while maintaining some ventillation?

Randy

[nickcrowhurst]

Originally Posted by SilverCabin

What about spraying this area with automobile undercoating, then inserting stainless steel pot scrubbers as nickcrowhurst suggests ?Randy

That is exactly what I used, as described here:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...ot-2607-3.html

I bought the automobile undercoating originally from JC Whitney. This was a little too thick for spraying at the end of a 25 foot tube, but the automobile undercoating I obtained from the supplier I describe is thinner, and better for spraying and penetration.
Nick.

[HiHoAgRV]

Is it a straight shot from the tongue box opening all the way out the rear frame section? I would like to follow-the-mouse and route some wires all the way from the backof the trailer to the front and this thread got me to thinking

[wacnstac]

This opening is also known as the "mice superhighway" to me. Block it or you will have an infestation beyond your wildest dreams.

[nickcrowhurst]

Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV

Is it a straight shot from the tongue box opening all the way out the rear frame section?

No. One long section goes from the rear fender straight to the front banana wrap on each side. The A-frame sections are welded to these long straights. Both ends of the long straights are open, so you could feed a line from the rear after removing the fender. After removing the front banana wrap you could pick up the wire and then pass it up through the floor. That's how it is on my trailer, anyhow.
Thinking about making an end-plate: if anyone still plans to do this I would recommend a piece of plastic, perhaps from an ice cream box or a breadboard, held in place by some mastic/adhesive. There would then be no electrolytic corrosion issue.
Nick.

[thecatsandi]

Originally Posted by nickcrowhurst

Thinking about making an end-plate: if anyone still plans to do this I would recommend a piece of plastic, perhaps from an ice cream box or a breadboard, held in place by some mastic/adhesive. There would then be no electrolytic corrosion issue.
Nick.

Nick,
I do not know of any plastic that I can get that I can bend at a 90 degree angle. As far as Al verses Fe. I could use some 24ga galvinized steel sheet metal Paint it and RTV it in place.

[john hd]

if i get around to it i plan on welding some expanded mesh over the opening.

john

[nickcrowhurst]

Originally Posted by thecatsandi

Nick,
I do not know of any plastic that I can get that I can bend at a 90 degree angle. As far as Al verses Fe. I could use some 24ga galvinized steel sheet metal Paint it and RTV it in place.

I was imagining a flat piece of plastic. A stainless steel self tapping screw near each corner could act as locator spigots inside each tube, and a good blob of RTV would seal all the circumference. Your idea of the galvanized sheet would certainly work. I like the simplicity of the stainless pot scourers, and they allow the tubes to breath.
Nick.

[thecatsandi]

A Little breathing may be good but I want to treat the inside so it does not rust any more. Since it has already strated rusting LPS 3 or equilvent is what I would use. Under coating would allow it to continue rusting under the coating.

I was thinking of modifying the plate to have some open space at the top behind the coupler. That way it is protected and allow it to breath.

Welding? I want to be able to remove it reasonably easily and insepect.

[HiHoAgRV]

How about one of these? I'm not near my trailer so I can't measure the opening. If they are available the minimum order would do 10-20 trailers.

[Resorts]

A frend of mine who is a welder told me that if you seal tubing up to tight it can sweat from changes in humidity and temp. Might be somthing to think about but greasing the inside sounds good to me.

[thecatsandi]

I like the idea. the ones in specs re too small but I like the thinking.

[thecatsandi]

this can happen if you trap moisture inside the frame. Here in Idaho it is soo dry that this not a problem. If you are worried about that you can fill the frame with inert gas, nitrogen, argon.... You would have to seal the other ends as well.

[Fenghuang]

Here are pictures of the cover that I made for our trailer.

[SilverGate]

The photos above show what is described in post #22 on page 2

Originally Posted by Fenghuang

Has anyone tried a sewn nylon fabric (e.g., rip stop nylon) cover casing opening reinforced with a wire frame, and fastening it in place with a Velcro strap? There is a upper anterior lip that the bent wire frame can hook onto. A Velcro strap can slip around the posterior medial bar hole opening to secure it. This would allow ventilation, limit wildlife/water/debris access, and permit periodic inspection.

In addition, a stainless steel pot scrubber was placed just inside the
opening of each rail.

[thecatsandi]

A little update. Tomorrow I hit the road for the winter. Yesterday I took measurements layed out, bent up the edges, primed and painted the Caps. I sanded and primed the inside of the box frame where I could reach. I sprayed the inside of the box frame as far as I could see with corrosion inhititor. This afternoon I installed the caps. Black RTV before and after the the caps were installed.
This should keep the weather at bay.
The first picture is caps preped and ready.
The second picture is the frame ends preped and ready.
The third picture is the supervisor watching over me.
The forth picture is the caps installed.

[juel]

You are too clever. Probably all Sarah's idea and you're taking the credit. Now, of course, Vincent thinks I need to go out and crawl under both trailers to look at the tongues. Thanks Michelle. By the way, we still have room for you and Sarah in the yard if you stop by.

[thecatsandi]

Originally Posted by juel

You are too clever. Probably all Sarah's idea and you're taking the credit.

You caught me. It was her idea and she did all the design. She just made sure I did the job properly.

Originally Posted by juel

By the way, we still have room for you and Sarah in the yard if you stop by.

Thanks, My plans at the moment are to head east on I-80 again. I will have freind with me on this trip. The troute can change depending on the weather.

Headed back west. I am planning on I-10.