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Old 12-25-2013, 04:34 PM   #267
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So, when we bought our Airstream, we asked them to set us up...soup to nuts, with the best gear they had. They installed an equal-i-zer, adjusted it and tightened the hitch bolts down like I've never seen before. It looks a lot like the hitch my Dad used on his AS back in the day. It seems to have worked just great on the tow to home and then to storage. We just ignored the occasional groan and pop as normal sound, though the idea here regarding lubricating the joints near the hitch at the forward end of the load bars is interesting. Should we be lubricating those two joints, or is that resistance part of the design? I seem to recall the dealer saying not to lube in there, but I may have misunderstood.

Naturally, the hitch ball is heavily coated with grease - they used some sort of red/pink goo vs. lithium grease. We found a tube of what looks like the same stuff (Lucas' Red "N" Tacky #2) at Home Depot. Is that the stuff? At this point, what I don't know about greasing hitch gear is a lot, so if we should use something else I'd prefer to find out now rather than after it's too late. Based on the video I watched, it seems we need to check bolts here for tightness on a regular basis, so we'll carry critical wrench sizes with us for that purpose.
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Old 12-25-2013, 06:28 PM   #268
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Most of that noise is coming from the hitch head. Spray it real good with silicone spray and it will be much quieter.
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Old 12-25-2013, 07:48 PM   #269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvery Moon View Post
Should we be lubricating those two joints, or is that resistance part of the design? I seem to recall the dealer saying not to lube in there, but I may have misunderstood.

.

If you are referring to the sockets into which the bars are installed, yes, they should be lubed where they contact the head. I kept mine dry for a while , and experienced significant wear on the head surfaces.
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Old 12-26-2013, 08:03 AM   #270
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Harpo,

Before you drill out the head on your hitch I would call Equalizer. They have been very helpful with questions I have had. I think they could give you good advice with your hitch. The bolts are also high strength.
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Old 12-27-2013, 06:59 PM   #271
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Harpo, Before you drill out the head on your hitch I would call Equalizer. They have been very helpful with questions I have had. I think they could give you good advice with your hitch. The bolts are also high strength.
Thanks for the advice. I did call Equilizer and they were very helpful. They are sending me a new bolt and some more spacer washers. I also told them that I had been having problems with one of my frame brackets slipping and that I was having to repeatedly straighten and retighten it. This was causing both frame brackets to bend around the frame. Turns out I had an early version and they have since reengineered the outer plate to improve the stiffness and help with better contact with the frame. Anyway they are sending me all this stuff at no cost because I am the original owner. It is always reassuring to know that their are still companies out there that care about the customer.
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Old 01-17-2014, 09:34 AM   #272
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I am filling out the warranty information for my Equal-i-zer hitch.
Where is the batch number located on the shank?
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Old 01-17-2014, 09:36 AM   #273
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Originally Posted by Harpo View Post
Thanks for the advice. I did call Equilizer and they were very helpful. They are sending me a new bolt and some more spacer washers. I also told them that I had been having problems with one of my frame brackets slipping and that I was having to repeatedly straighten and retighten it. This was causing both frame brackets to bend around the frame. Turns out I had an early version and they have since reengineered the outer plate to improve the stiffness and help with better contact with the frame. Anyway they are sending me all this stuff at no cost because I am the original owner. It is always reassuring to know that their are still companies out there that care about the customer.
I have the newest version, and it repeatedly gets loose and has to be tightened.
I am in the process of talking to/emailing back and forth with Equal-i-zer/Progress Manufacturing.
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Old 01-17-2014, 09:38 AM   #274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvery Moon View Post
So, when we bought our Airstream, we asked them to set us up...soup to nuts, with the best gear they had. They installed an equal-i-zer, adjusted it and tightened the hitch bolts down like I've never seen before. It looks a lot like the hitch my Dad used on his AS back in the day. It seems to have worked just great on the tow to home and then to storage. We just ignored the occasional groan and pop as normal sound, though the idea here regarding lubricating the joints near the hitch at the forward end of the load bars is interesting. Should we be lubricating those two joints, or is that resistance part of the design? I seem to recall the dealer saying not to lube in there, but I may have misunderstood.

Naturally, the hitch ball is heavily coated with grease - they used some sort of red/pink goo vs. lithium grease. We found a tube of what looks like the same stuff (Lucas' Red "N" Tacky #2) at Home Depot. Is that the stuff? At this point, what I don't know about greasing hitch gear is a lot, so if we should use something else I'd prefer to find out now rather than after it's too late. Based on the video I watched, it seems we need to check bolts here for tightness on a regular basis, so we'll carry critical wrench sizes with us for that purpose.
The red stuff is just ordinary ole axle/wheel bearing grease.
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Old 01-17-2014, 10:10 AM   #275
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The results of my communication with Eqal-i-zer/Progress-
Turn the bent link plate around and tighten to 65-75 lb. ft. of torque-
That is so simple- why didn't I think of it?
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Old 01-17-2014, 10:25 AM   #276
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Not sure where the number is? I went out to see if I could find it on the shank but I did not see it.. I have my trailer hitched up right now so quite a bit of it is covered. I do have it written down on my manual as being 1010C. I do not remember if I wrote this down off something I saw or if the dealer who originally installed my hitch wrote the number for me. I suppose if you talk to Equilizer they could tell you where you could find the number.

I finally got my hitch put back together again but I guess I am going to have to take it somewhere to get the shank bolts further tightened. My torque wrench only goes to 80 ft lbs torque. The manual recommends 320 ft lbs. I do not think that my bolts were originally tightened to this degree. Something else to be on the look out for I guess.
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Old 01-17-2014, 05:18 PM   #277
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Originally Posted by m.hony View Post
The results of my communication with Eqal-i-zer/Progress-
Turn the bent link plate around and tighten to 65-75 lb. ft. of torque-
That is so simple- why didn't I think of it?
Hi, or use 1/2" copper tubing as shown in my post #13. Since I have done this many years ago, I have never had a slipping problem again.
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Old 01-17-2014, 05:42 PM   #278
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Not sure where the number is? I went out to see if I could find it on the shank but I did not see it.. I have my trailer hitched up right now so quite a bit of it is covered. I do have it written down on my manual as being 1010C. I do not remember if I wrote this down off something I saw or if the dealer who originally installed my hitch wrote the number for me. I suppose if you talk to Equilizer they could tell you where you could find the number.

I finally got my hitch put back together again but I guess I am going to have to take it somewhere to get the shank bolts further tightened. My torque wrench only goes to 80 ft lbs torque. The manual recommends 320 ft lbs. I do not think that my bolts were originally tightened to this degree. Something else to be on the look out for I guess.

The number is on the shank inside the receiver- you can't see it when it is installed.

The only way to get 320 ft. lbs. is air.
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Old 01-17-2014, 06:00 PM   #279
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The only way to get 320 ft. lbs. is air.
Or a socket and 3/4" breaker bar with a cheater pipe and 106.666667 lb force applied exactly 3' from the center line of the hitch ball on the cheater pipe. Easiest applied if you rotate the shank 90 degrees and apply the force downward.

C'mon grin just a little bit...........
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Old 01-17-2014, 08:39 PM   #280
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The number is on the shank inside the receiver- you can't see it when it is installed.

The only way to get 320 ft. lbs. is air.
Or letter as it turns out- R-
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